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Old 12-05-2020, 01:47 AM   #1
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Help identifying valve / fitting

Anyone have an idea as to what the fitting circled in red is? I've just replaced my bilge pump and have no operation as there is something mechanical at this fitting that is stopping flow. New to me boat so unsure how long it has been like this. The one pictured is for the rear bilge, it allows water to exit just fine. The one that has an obstruction is just a nightmare to access on the port side of the port engine, I can just touch it if I lay over the transmission and exhaust.

I've gotten in my dingy and went to the outside of the hull and poked a screwdriver in the thru-hull, the obstruction is definitely between the seacock valve and the thru-hull. It is also solid like metal and sealing the outlet 99%+. With a 2000GPH rule pump I can just get a drip through it.

Anyways, before I go and pull up the salon floor to try and access this thing, I'm hoping there may be an easier way to fix or disable it if it. Step one is figuring out what it is. Both of my bilge pumps have this fitting, no other thru-hull has it.
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Old 12-05-2020, 01:51 AM   #2
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Does any of the electrical wiring go to the mystery fitting? If so, where does it originate?
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Old 12-05-2020, 01:55 AM   #3
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Maybe a check valve??? Cannot say I have seen that before.
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Old 12-05-2020, 01:59 AM   #4
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No wiring, just old stuff that I'm in the midst of tidying up that's been "draped" over it. I'm thinking check valve but unsure. There is a approx 25mm removeable cap on top but unsure what that would do. No physical levers or anything on it. With it's location I'm really reluctant to touch it without a fix but do need my bilge working.
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Old 12-05-2020, 02:11 AM   #5
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Well, as soon as I started doing a google image search for raw water bronze check valves I've made a bit of progress. Looks like one of these:

http://www.challengervalves.com.au/w...5-21.08.19.pdf

Why in the heck they are there is beyond me but would appear that the construction may allow for the inlet hose to be removed and a screwdriver or something similar to be used to open the gate back up. Possibly remove the pin for the gate as well. I think I'll give it a shot and try to remove the cap, pin and remove the gate and then put the cap back on so it's just a normal thru-hull with seacock and no check valve. KISS.
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Old 12-05-2020, 02:22 AM   #6
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Maybe take the current hose off the pump and run a temporary hose overboard until you figure out a way to fix this one.
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Old 12-05-2020, 02:23 AM   #7
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Well it looks like one of these.
https://www.valvewarehouseaustralia....8aAmz9EALw_wcB

But rather than replace it, I think I would prefer to remove it and have a vented loop above the waterline, and double clamps on the hose nipple.
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Old 12-05-2020, 02:31 AM   #8
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In addition, I dont like the look of that thru-hull fitting. I'd want a flanged one, or at least some kind of thickened area around the hull penetration. You might like to do some more research on this, and this article is a reasonable start.

https://marinehowto.com/seacock-failure-testing/
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Old 12-05-2020, 02:32 AM   #9
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Thanks all. I'd have to agree with Insequent. I think I'll try and pop off that cap and remove the gate in situ. Alternatively looks like a screwdriver from the inlet side would open it back up. Next time I have the floor up it will go to a hose barb. They are well above the water line.
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Old 12-05-2020, 02:34 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HGR View Post
Thanks all. I'd have to agree with Insequent. I think I'll try and pop off that cap and remove the gate in situ. Alternatively looks like a screwdriver from the inlet side would open it back up. Next time I have the floor up it will go to a hose barb. They are well above the water line.
OK, that takes a lot of issues away.

I think I have one of those valves on the inlet line for my hot water system. There it makes sense - prevents hot water backflow when a cold faucet is turned on.

But to have one exposed to salt water, that can fail in the closed position as one of yours did, is not something to have on a bilge pump outlet hose!
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Old 12-05-2020, 06:21 AM   #11
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Looks like a swing type check valve.
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Old 12-05-2020, 06:45 AM   #12
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I believe its a brass swing gate check valve also, and needs to be removed. Brass can corrode is salt water to the point where the bilge pump doesn't have enough pressure to open it. Bilge pumps typically operate at less than 10 PSI at the pump and diminish in pressure 1 PSI for every two feet above the pump.

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Old 12-05-2020, 11:22 AM   #13
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I have some of those. Itís a check valve. Canít for the life of me figure out why someone would install it there.

Also find the application of a valve on a bilge pump discharge above the waterline odd. When would you want to close the valve?
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Old 12-05-2020, 11:30 AM   #14
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It's a check valve and it's obvious purpose is to get a dry bilge; when the pump shuts off it's to stop the water column in the hose from flowing back into the bilge. It probably did that when first installed, now it has caused the bilge pump system to fail entirely.

Just say no to check valves!
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Old 12-05-2020, 11:47 AM   #15
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How high is discharge above water line?

If high enough, make that check valve go away. Remove the whole thing. You can remove the internal disc, but anyone that sees it will assume it is a functional check valve. Best to make it go away.
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Old 12-05-2020, 12:04 PM   #16
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Agree about what it is, a check valve that should not be there. If the outlet is high enough above the water line then remove it entirely and install a hose adapter type through hull or adapt a hose adapter fitting to the existing through hull. Groco and Buck ALgonquin make good units in many different sizes along with fittings to adapt to the through hull.

If after bilge pump shut off water flow back is a problem then use another pump that can dewater to a very low level. THey are out there.

I did my own with an old Jabsco small diaphragm pump with the BILGE PUMP VALVES. With no pressure being held the pumps do a good job for many years. Mine pushing 20 with no need for re/re. The pump is much older. I added a small strainer to the suction hose end to reduce junk pick up. What does get through the pump can pass on. Just be sure the pump has the actual bilge pump valves. These have much larger, coarser openings to pass small junk. THe valves for the pressure system have small openings which will clog after a while.
They can be found used often where used marine equipment is sold.

There are other pumps though made specifically for this purpose although I don't pay attention as I have several of these little Jabscos for various other jobs so some spares.
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Old 12-05-2020, 01:04 PM   #17
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Some bilge pump do use a simple plastic in line check valve. Thatís just to keep the pump from cycling on/off as the water falls back down the hose. I canít see any good reason to have an over rated check valve along with a ball valve in that application. Some sailboats have them on emergency pumps due to the boat healing over while sailing. Get rid of all that crap and let your pump work as it should.
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Old 12-05-2020, 02:23 PM   #18
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NO check valves nor isolation valves in the bilge out let hose.
Check valve jam and a good surveyor would gig you on those.
Take the check valve and isolation out of the line and all your problems will disappear.

Per a vented loop, not so sure that is necessary. Your overboard outlet is above the water line, the standard bilge pumps are rated at zero head. You do not want anything to obstruct the outlet line.

Per the Jabsco pumps, from my experience, the weak point is the plastic or nylon hose barbs. Change them bronze.
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Old 12-05-2020, 03:12 PM   #19
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I believe if the outlet is near the waterline a second is suggested by ABYC. In case of backflooding.
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Old 12-09-2020, 02:30 AM   #20
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It’s probably a brass or low quality bronze swing check valve that has corroded shut.
While you could do away with it entirely, all commercial vessels do use check valves on overboard discharge hoses.
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