Help identifying valve / fitting
- Thread starter HGR
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I had to install one on my Mainship Pilot 30/2. I know it is not considered ship shape to do so. But what would happen is it would back flow while underway to one of the forward pumps. That water would then flow back to the very back of the boatthru limber holes and it would accumulate back there. Guess what is back there? The high water alarm and "Jesus" pump. There was no normal pump on that bulge compartment. But there was one in the next compartment over. THis reared its ugly head on the first day of a multi day trip. So once I figured out what was going on, I would run until I started to hear the initial "chirping" of the high water alarm. And then I would MIStrim the boat to shift the accumulated water to a compartment with a normal bilge pump. RInse and repeat. Did that for two days and then installed check valves. Looking back, probably more of a bandaid and should have went the vented loop route. Live and learn.
rgano
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Hey Baker, my Mainship 30 Pilot came to me with all three of the standard bilge pump running almost horizontal hoses to the outlets a few inches off the water, a disaster in the making. I ran new hose clear to the overhead deck and then down to the waterline through hulls. No vented loops installed yet and maybe never as the vessel iives on a lift when unattended. The "Jesus" pump output hose for some unknown reason runs from the transom where the pump lives through totally inaccessible regions to an inch and a half bronze through positioned at about mid-hull length and well above the waterline. The J-pump alarm is on anytime it is running for the obvious reason that it takes a lot of water in the hull to reach that pump. Not satisfied with that arrangement, I alarmed the aft of the three bilge pumps (where water collects underway) because I want to know ANY time water is entering the people tank.
Last edited:
Brooksie
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Didn't read every entry.
It is a swing check valve for sure.
They are sold as bronze but most have brass parts.
Check valves are not a good idea on bilge pumps.
If absolutely necessary, plastic w/ rubber flapper would be better on a bilge pump.
Some are installed to prevent runback when pump shuts off, this is in wrong place for that.
Some are installed to prevent siphoning back through pump. I wouldn't bet my boat on one. Vented loop better way to go.
It is a swing check valve for sure.
They are sold as bronze but most have brass parts.
Check valves are not a good idea on bilge pumps.
If absolutely necessary, plastic w/ rubber flapper would be better on a bilge pump.
Some are installed to prevent runback when pump shuts off, this is in wrong place for that.
Some are installed to prevent siphoning back through pump. I wouldn't bet my boat on one. Vented loop better way to go.
Sailor Harry
Member
What is it?
It is a swing check valve.
It is a swing check valve.
It's a swing check valve. It will be solid if poking from the outside as you are pushing against the check valve flapper that seals the valve. It's design is to let water out and no water in.
If it is the bilge pump overboard neither the ball valve nor check valve should be there.
The only fitting should be at the pump and the overboard with a smooth wall hose. More fittings, valves = more restriction = less flow which is what you don't want in a bilge pump system.
Idea is to get as much water out as quick as you can.
If it is the bilge pump overboard neither the ball valve nor check valve should be there.
The only fitting should be at the pump and the overboard with a smooth wall hose. More fittings, valves = more restriction = less flow which is what you don't want in a bilge pump system.
Idea is to get as much water out as quick as you can.
Caballero II
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It's a check (one-way) valve. Not sure why it's there, but maybe a misguided attempt to protect the boat from flooding, which is what the ball valve is for.
ProMaritime
Senior Member
Looks like a shutoff valve on a water meter. Some of them have wires coming from a sensor so the water department can just drive down the street and remotely read the meters. It does not appear to support a shutoff or on capability. My the installer just wanted two means of shutting off the raw water source. Looks like a waste of time to me.
psneeld
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mbdana
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That is a swing check valve. There should be a flow arrow on the back side pointed outbd towards the water. This is to protect you from water coming in but allowing water to go out.
If it is orientated correctly it is not your flow problem.
Good luck!
Mike Dana
Third Reef
36' GB Heritage Classic
Potts Harbor Maine
207-833-5080
If it is orientated correctly it is not your flow problem.
Good luck!
Mike Dana
Third Reef
36' GB Heritage Classic
Potts Harbor Maine
207-833-5080
Nick F
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A late contribution to this thread:
Another reason for not putting a check valve downstream of a bilge pump is that some bilge pumps cannot get the water flowing if they have to start into a "head". This seems bizarre, but I have seen it happen. The bilge pump was immersed, the impeller spinning, but no flow - the impeller simply cavitates if it starts turning with no initial flow. Once flow starts, the pressure capability is there.
So, in a system without a check valve, the pump gets the flow started into an empty hose and is then able to build up the pressure required to lift the water to the highest point of the hose.
As stated by others, a second pump with less run-back volume is required to reduce the amount of remaining water. I use a Jabsco diaphragm pump (which, being a diaphragm type pump, has internal check valves by the way).
As also mentioned, check valves cannot be relied upon - they are prone to jamming closed (as apparently happened to the OP) or not sealing tight.
Nick
Another reason for not putting a check valve downstream of a bilge pump is that some bilge pumps cannot get the water flowing if they have to start into a "head". This seems bizarre, but I have seen it happen. The bilge pump was immersed, the impeller spinning, but no flow - the impeller simply cavitates if it starts turning with no initial flow. Once flow starts, the pressure capability is there.
So, in a system without a check valve, the pump gets the flow started into an empty hose and is then able to build up the pressure required to lift the water to the highest point of the hose.
As stated by others, a second pump with less run-back volume is required to reduce the amount of remaining water. I use a Jabsco diaphragm pump (which, being a diaphragm type pump, has internal check valves by the way).
As also mentioned, check valves cannot be relied upon - they are prone to jamming closed (as apparently happened to the OP) or not sealing tight.
Nick
Object of a bilge pump is to get water out as fast as it can to help reduce water intrusion during flooding causality and hopefully buy some time.
Any fittings (other then overboard and pump hook up), valves, Check Valves, non-smooth wall hose, undersized hose, too high of discharge head will create restriction of discharge. Not a good thing for a bilge pump.
Not meant to keep a bilge 100% water free. Most float switches are mounted above the pump level.
Any fittings (other then overboard and pump hook up), valves, Check Valves, non-smooth wall hose, undersized hose, too high of discharge head will create restriction of discharge. Not a good thing for a bilge pump.
Not meant to keep a bilge 100% water free. Most float switches are mounted above the pump level.
