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Old 05-14-2021, 07:30 PM   #1
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Head sink install question

How do you think Butyl tape would work to hold down and seal my new head sink. The new sink does not have studs so it would be a press to install. The old one was heavily glued down and was a bear to remove without wrecking anything.
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Old 05-14-2021, 08:20 PM   #2
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If you can get it clamped down somehow for a couple of days it may work. Bad thing is if it gets too warm it may run a bit.
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Old 05-17-2021, 06:05 AM   #3
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AT LAST, a use for 5200 !


Put the sink in place , use masking tape to catch extra goop, use a concrete block yo hold sink down and spray water on sink/counter top seam to help cure the goop.
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Old 05-17-2021, 08:04 AM   #4
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No on the butyl tape. It’s not an adhesive. FFs idea would work or ask a plumber. They glue down sinks regularly.
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Old 05-17-2021, 09:08 AM   #5
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In my observation, plumbers usually use a high quality clear Silicone. It is the choice that has been around for decades, worked for decades, is stain an mildew resistant, and doesn't get them in trouble with the customer if there is some residue (because it is clear). In my observation few have had any reason to change. I've occasionally seen them use white if the sink is white.

I don't like Silicone anywhere near my boat, so I'd probably use some other "kitchen and bath" caulk that lists itself as paintable.

If the sink fits well, I'm nitnsure there is a reason to weight it. I'd only do that if there was more of a gap than I wanted, it didn't take more than a little force to hold it, and I couldn't fix the root cause. Or, I guess if I expected wild boat moment at a rough mooring or anchorage or something.

I wouldn't spend the money on topside or bottom side caulk for that purpose. I just see it making it harder to get it back out if doingnsovis ever needed to get a better angle on a valve or other plumbing for service.
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Old 05-17-2021, 09:41 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gkesden View Post
In my observation, plumbers usually use a high quality clear Silicone. It is the choice that has been around for decades, worked for decades, is stain an mildew resistant, and doesn't get them in trouble with the customer if there is some residue (because it is clear). In my observation few have had any reason to change. I've occasionally seen them use white if the sink is white.

I don't like Silicone anywhere near my boat, so I'd probably use some other "kitchen and bath" caulk that lists itself as paintable.

If the sink fits well, I'm nitnsure there is a reason to weight it. I'd only do that if there was more of a gap than I wanted, it didn't take more than a little force to hold it, and I couldn't fix the root cause. Or, I guess if I expected wild boat moment at a rough mooring or anchorage or something.

I wouldn't spend the money on topside or bottom side caulk for that purpose. I just see it making it harder to get it back out if doingnsovis ever needed to get a better angle on a valve or other plumbing for service.

Lexel. It is clear, easy to use, very long lasting, and best of all, NOT SILICONE. NEVER use silicone on a boat. A mantra to live by.
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Old 05-17-2021, 10:43 AM   #7
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Butyl tape works if the sink also has some kind of a hold down clamp system. If a surface mounted stainless sink, seat it with butyl, use a heat gun to warm the edge and take another turn on the clamps. I wouldn't use something like 5200 unless it was an undermount and I was planning on standing in the sink. That kind of adhesion simply isn't required. I just did a porcelain undermount sink bonded to Corian with just hardware store caulking. Plenty of grip without having to demolish the head if it needed to be replaced.
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