Electric stove to Propane

[Wine47]

My wife and I are looking for a Trawler to live aboard part time in Florida. We both love to cook and gas/propane is our desired choice. Have seen some potential boats online, but with electric stove/oven - not our choice. How difficult is it to go from an electric stove/oven to propane - anyone done it. Seems like the unit sizes are the same, need a gas line run and tanks. Would also like a BBQ outside and a propane burner next to it . Electric stove/oven is a deal breaker for us, but how difficult is it to convert ? Thanks, M&J

 

[C lectric]

I know several people who did it. Two with 44 Tollycraft boats.
They had it done by pro's so there would be no question about the installation plus others as all electric is not .quite as popular here.
You should check with your insurance company first to find out what they look for to ensure you don't spend a lot of time and money and find changes are needed.

But it can be done.

 

[Lou_tribal]

I did it this year. Installed 2 propane cooktop, one in the galley, one outside on the flybridge. Not difficult to do at all just follow the rules and plan your stuff. The longest was to build support for my cooktop and bbq in mahogany.

L

 

[OldDan1943]

If there is a problem, your insurance company will ask, "Who installed it?"

For that reason, I encourage you to have the conversion installed by a professional.

 

[C lectric]

I know others who did their own installation but were overseen and checked by a pro.
But Be sure you find out what the insurance co. wants.

 

[Lou_tribal]

If there is a problem, your insurance company will ask, "Who installed it?"

For that reason, I encourage you to have the conversion installed by a professional.

If the install follows the ABYC recommandations it should not matter who installed it. My insurance only ask me to shutdown propane at the tank when not aboard. If there is an issue they will inspect the setup but if you followed the rules...

L

L

 

[Larry M]

We’ve converted two from electric to propane and have had 2 others boats that had been converted to current standards. Never flunked a survey in 30 plus years.

The conversion is pretty easy for the most part. You need to look at the storage of the tanks and routing of the propane line from the tanks to the stove. The regs are very specific but doable.

 

[DavidM]

A propane stove/oven and a separate outdoor propane fueled BBQ is reasonably easy to install, but as others have noted above, you have to do it right.

The main issue will be finding a place for the propane locker where it can drain overboard and you can run propane hoses to the new appliances. The system should be set up with a gauge on the tank right after the main valve, then the regulator, an electric solenoid and then a tee that connects the two hoses- one for the stove/oven and another for the BBQ.

Marine propane systems have a several special issues: 1) You need a 12V solenoid that shuts off the gas and is controlled from a switch near the stove. 2) each branch must go directly from the propane locker to the individual appliance, ie you cannot have a tee inside the boat, only inside the propane locker. 3) The propane locker should have a drain in the bottom that ultimately goes overboard- propane is heavier than air and sinks.

The foregoing is my understanding of the ABYC standards and are sensible.

Done right and operated right, propane can be a safe system for cooking on board.

David

 

[Maerin]

It's likely the biggest hurdle to an ABYC compliant install will be the propane locker. The gas line is pretty straightforward- hose that meets spec, no sharp bends, no potential chafe points, no fittings other than the terminations, routing/accessibility. You'll need a gauge and regulator in the locker, hold downs for the tanks, safety label, the locker must vent overboard and the cover must be gasketed and open from the top. You'll need to wire a detector near the appliance and related safety shutoff solenoid at the tank. If the installation meets all the ABYC standards, the insurance carrier should have no reason to question it. To head off any problem, you could have an ABYC-certified tech or qualified surveyor certify that it meets ABYC. The locker can be subject to some ABYC standards interpretation regarding venting. If other models of the same boat are propane equipped, it may be worthwhile to do some research on how those are configured to avoid potential interpretation disputes.

 

[Mule]

My wife and I are looking for a Trawler to live aboard part time in Florida. We both love to cook and gas/propane is our desired choice. Have seen some potential boats online, but with electric stove/oven - not our choice. How difficult is it to go from an electric stove/oven to propane - anyone done it. Seems like the unit sizes are the same, need a gas line run and tanks. Would also like a BBQ outside and a propane burner next to it . Electric stove/oven is a deal breaker for us, but how difficult is it to convert ? Thanks, M&J

Fellow DFW guy. I left Oakland and I30 in 2009, Fort Worth. I have had 2 boats in FL. 12 month live aboard. Here is what I know. Propane-natural gas has always been my choice, hated electric hot plates. That is until I got a single inductive burner and used it all summer to avoid heating up the boat. I removed the 3 burner propane unit and replaced it with a 2 burner inductive last month. Inductive is like gas, immediately adjustable, I prefer it and would not go back. The flush, easy to clean cooktop gave 24in additional countertop space when not cooking. Only takes 1800 Watts.

I have a propane Weber 1200 (best ever, had others) mounted on a fish cleaning table fed by a 6lb tank and a wok heater/fish fryer in another rod holder. Both stern mounted. Do yourself a favor and look into inductive, a single countertop only cost $75 and is useful away from the boat. Test it out, you might like it. Oh yeah, oven is a combo microwave/convection oven. We are very happy with our choices, spent 8 years experimenting. You get in my neck of the woods, say Hi.

 

[OldDan1943]

Fellow DFW guy. I left Oakland and I30 in 2009, Fort Worth. I have had 2 boats in FL. 12 month live aboard. Here is what I know. Propane-natural gas has always been my choice, hated electric hot plates. That is until I got a single inductive burner and used it all summer to avoid heating up the boat. I removed the 3 burner propane unit and replaced it with a 2 burner inductive last month. Inductive is like gas, immediately adjustable, I prefer it and would not go back. The flush, easy to clean cooktop gave 24in additional countertop space when not cooking. Only takes 1800 Watts.

I have a propane Weber 1200 (best ever, had others) mounted on a fish cleaning table fed by a 6lb tank and a wok heater/fish fryer in another rod holder. Both stern mounted. Do yourself a favor and look into inductive, a single countertop only cost $75 and is useful away from the boat. Test it out, you might like it. Oh yeah, oven is a combo microwave/convection oven. We are very happy with our choices, spent 8 years experimenting. You get in my neck of the woods, say Hi.

Finally, someone has started talking about induction burner tops. I am considering the 2 burner lay-out. They draw less than the 3 burner electric burners??
What wattage does your microwave/convention oven draw?
I am trying to live within a 30 amp boat and if necessary a 1500 watt inverter. I've got to save amps/watts somewhere.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

You should check with your insurance company first to find out what they look for to ensure you don't spend a lot of time and money and find changes are needed.

My insurance company never asked what kind of stove I have nor who has done the work. Interesting.....

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Finally, someone has started talking about induction burner tops. I am considering the 2 burner lay-out. They draw less than the 3 burner electric burners??
What wattage does your microwave/convention oven draw?
I am trying to live within a 30 amp boat and if necessary a 1500 watt inverter. I've got to save amps/watts somewhere.

Post drift, but would be interested in information on induction tops with ovens in another thread......

 

[Lou_tribal]

I had induction cooktop before going propane and indeed it is the electric appliance that is the most similar to propane for cooking. However one thing to keep in mind is that it is still electric. When at the dock it was fine but when at anchor it was certainly not compatible to our energy conservative way of cruising.
All that to say that options are multiple but greatly depend on how you use your boat and what energy is available to you.

L

 

[OldDan1943]

My insurance company never asked what kind of stove I have nor who has done the work. Interesting.....

They might ask if there is any loss. Their motto is "anything to avoid a payout."

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

When at the dock it was fine but when at anchor it was certainly not compatible to our energy conservative way of cruising.

I am an all electric boat, so I have no issues running my generator, even while on the hook.

 

[Lou_tribal]

I am an all electric boat, so I have no issues running my generator, even while on the hook.

This is exactly what I meant. For someone like you with big (for me) genset it is not an issue. For someone like me, with baby genset for emergency and trying to run minimal electrical things at the hook it is not the same game. Different usage, different options.

L

 

[BruceK]

I second using a licensed professional.
My insurer required a diagram of the installation,certified by the installer.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

This is exactly what I meant. For someone like you with big (for me) genset it is not an issue. For someone like me, with baby genset for emergency and trying to run minimal electrical things at the hook it is not the same game. Different usage, different options.

L

Lou you are correct!

Dang I tried to bait you and you spit the hook right out!! Must have been one of those Canadian barbless ones...

I have run into folks that have told me to shut down my generator as it was interfering with their wilderness experience. But that subject is for a different thread!

Back to the OP and propane install......

 

[psneeld]

My insurance company has sent me a self survey with critical points of interest for my renewal next year.

This is a real liveaboard policy by an old time insurer.

They are smart enough to know the vadt majority of boats out there are not built to ABYC standards and know if they were, many would have been altered by owners, had aftermarket stuff installed by non ABYC techs, or just have been repaired to kess than ABYC compliant.

What goid is a propane solenoid if the captainbto too stupid or fitgetful to turn it off? Better to do like FF suggestsvand put a timer switch on it which even ABYC doesnt require.

Nope, fortunately my insurance company seems like one of the smart, reasonable ones and looks for specific high risk items (like burnt electric cord ends) and trusts the owner based on overall equipment quality, condition and bottom line....experience and claims record.

So self installation done well shouldnt be a factor. People work on their boats all the time that can have consequences just as fatal as a bad propane install.

 

[FF]

"I am an all electric boat, so I have no issues running my generator, even while on the hook."

Electric is perfect for folks that never leave the dock, or have 24/7 noisemakers.

For most cruisers propane is the answer .

When installing, I run the propane tubing or hose inside a heavy hyd line , to protect it.

Besides a bilge sniffer , I install a mechanical 2 hour timer in the solenoid line , and a bright RED light in the galley to let folks know the gas is on.

These additions do not cost much or require much time to install.

The folks with all electric boats that want to anchor out might look at

http://www.doityourselfrv.com/butane-stoves/

 

[Mule]

Cooktop: 1800 Watts/120volts=15 amps... ok for your breaker. Microwave/convection: 900W/120=7.5 amps.

Some juggling may be necessary while cooking if on 30 amps at the dock. With 5kw or more on Genset should not be an issue. With 30amps should you try using all your appliances, the ac, water heater, All refrigeration. A hair dryer or two along with your toaster oven then yeah, Houston; we have a problem.

I have a 30 amp boat. Planning on going split 50 one of these days and breaking off the air conditioning, perhaps the water heater to another set of optional/stand alone breakers. Refrigeration and everything else is 12volt except water heater and ac. TV and assorted entertainment devices are on inverter 1.5kw. In 3 years only thrown a breaker a couple times and never the main. Wife+hair dryer+ toaster oven or small space heater will do it, Yep every time. :lol: time to adjust. Works for me

Worse case, I go outside and cook on grill and/fryer burner. My genset is very quite however.

Notice Safety was never mentioned. I have sniffer\ alarm and solenoid. I prefer the inductive set up. Now I have the safety devices and 2 aluminum 30lb tanks not needed. As for running Genset, that is what it is for; cooking as a general rule is of short time duration. Good time to cook, top off the batteries, hot shower and so forth.

I do have 1300+ amps of battery fed by both 60amp charger and 750wats of solar.

 

[koliver]

Safety is the key.

Most Insurance Co.s will require a survey from time to time, so the surveyor should address the safety of the propane installation.

Some marinas require a safety check as a condition of moorage. In the marina where I keep my boat, that is the case. Safety checkers, of which I am one, are trained to closely inspect the propane installation, so will have the authority to refuse a Safety sticker and therefore moorage, until that installation is safe.

 

[psneeld]

Marina safety checkers are pretty thin back East. In hundreds of marinas, never even asked if I had propane on board or a bilge full of gasoline fumes. They are asking for insurance proof more and more.

 

[OldDan1943]

Cooktop: 1800 Watts/120volts=15 amps... ok for your breaker. Microwave/convection: 900W/120=7.5 amps.

Some juggling may be necessary while cooking if on 30 amps at the dock. With 5kw or more on Genset should not be an issue. With 30amps should you try using all your appliances, the ac, water heater, All refrigeration. A hair dryer or two along with your toaster oven then yeah, Houston; we have a problem.

I have a 30 amp boat. Planning on going split 50 one of these days and breaking off the air conditioning, perhaps the water heater to another set of optional/stand alone breakers. Refrigeration and everything else is 12volt except water heater and ac. TV and assorted entertainment devices are on inverter 1.5kw. In 3 years only thrown a breaker a couple times and never the main. Wife+hair dryer+ toaster oven or small space heater will do it, Yep every time. :lol: time to adjust. Works for me

Worse case, I go outside and cook on grill and/fryer burner. My genset is very quite however.

Notice Safety was never mentioned. I have sniffer\ alarm and solenoid. I prefer the inductive set up. Now I have the safety devices and 2 aluminum 30lb tanks not needed. As for running Genset, that is what it is for; cooking as a general rule is of short time duration. Good time to cook, top off the batteries, hot shower and so forth.

I do have 1300+ amps of battery fed by both 60amp charger and 750wats of solar.

I have 2 30amp legs. One for the A/C and the other for the house.
I also have a Northern Lights 6kw gen so I can really get down and dirty with the cooking.

When I speak of a 50amp service, I am speaking of 2 50amp cables.
My previous boat had 2 50amp cables, one dedicated to the AC and the other for the house. I miss that. SIGH

 

[JLD]

Propane stoves are a pretty common install on sailboats. But then, most sailboats don't have generators, but rely on battery banks for all of their electrical needs.

Most sailboats will have the propane locker under one of the cockpit seats. Ranger Tugs, will often put the propane tanks in a box on the swim platform.

Jim

 

[C lectric]

My insurance company never asked what kind of stove I have nor who has done the work. Interesting.....

They may not care as long as it's done right. BUt I know people who had trouble with the insurance co. to the point they had to change insurance co.

What I don't know though is the "why" they had trouble.

I don't use propane, I'm not going to use propane, and it does not really matter to me except to warn or caution people to find out for sure if there will be a problem.

 

[JLD]

They may not care as long as it's done right. BUt I know people who had trouble with the insurance co. to the point they had to change insurance co.

What I don't know though is the "why" they had trouble.

Maybe they got into 'trouble' with the insurance companies, because of the way the propane was installed. I've been spending some time on the sailing forums (including some manufacturer specific forums) and have read that many older sailboats have had survey issues related to propane installation and use. Some of these issues have included "T' connections in the cabin, failure to protect propane lines from chafe when they pass through bulkheads, and the use of non-marine propane heaters.

Jim

 

[Mule]

I have 2 30amp legs. One for the A/C and the other for the house.
I also have a Northern Lights 6kw gen so I can really get down and dirty with the cooking.

When I speak of a 50amp service, I am speaking of 2 50amp cables.
My previous boat had 2 50amp cables, one dedicated to the AC and the other for the house. I miss that. SIGH

2 50amp power cords? Wow. When you turned everything on did all the lights dim in the Marina? Street and All?

 

[psneeld]

2 50A 125/250V.....pretty common on 48 to 50 feet plus.