To Drip or not to Drip

[Wayne]

'Lo All,
My old 46' sailboat came with a traditional shaft log, but I wanted a dripless shaft log. I installed the dripless log per instructions including the hose between the exhaust water and the shaft log. It did not leak at all - ever. When the shaft cutlass bearing had to be replaced, the prop shaft had to be pulled. The shaft had some pitting under the part that rotated with the shaft. I used an epoxy putty to fill the pits, then sanded it smooth with fine emery cloth wrapped around the shaft. I carefully put two wraps (IIRC) of Teflon plumbing tape around the shaft as an insulator and reinstalled the 2-piece clamp over the tape. During subsequent checks both in the water and out, I observed no further pitting. This was not an "approved" fix, but it did work for as long as I had the boat after first noting the pitting problem, which was about 15 years.

 

[psneeld]

Comparing an old stuffing setup with no maintenance to a new dripless is not even a comparison.

One who has dealt with both and know the ins and outs can hardly find a real difference between the two....except initial cost.

 

[Okydowky]

Great information everyone, it’s great to hear first hand experience on both. Dependant on the survey results I think we are gonna repack them to finish the season off. If things go well and trouble free why not keep them I’m thinking.
But I am still steering to dripless simply to keep bilge dry, my only experience I have is currently dripless on my twins that have just been flawless for 5 yrs. They were on pre us owning the boat and look brand new.

What is the average cost of packing?
Price of PSS dripless? I only know the shaft size, need to measure the tube to get cost.

Albin
looks great, I would have done the upgrade with the looks of that box also. What shaft coupler did you use and why?

 

[mvweebles]

Great information everyone, it’s great to hear first hand experience on both. Dependant on the survey results I think we are gonna repack them to finish the season off. If things go well and trouble free why not keep them I’m thinking.
But I am still steering to dripless simply to keep bilge dry, my only experience I have is currently dripless on my twins that have just been flawless for 5 yrs. They were on pre us owning the boat and look brand new.

What is the average cost of packing?
Price of PSS dripless? I only know the shaft size, need to measure the tube to get cost.

Albin
looks great, I would have done the upgrade with the looks of that box also. What shaft coupler did you use and why?

First, cost of traditional packing is around $40 for the top quality stuff. 5-7 years or a couple thousand hours as a guess. PYI recommends replacing the bellows on their dripless ever 7 years. Requires haul, shaft to be removed, which may mean rudder removal. Replace cutless bearing which you're at it.

Second, for the OP, replacing with dripless is a good idea. Clearly, OP is not comfortable with maintenance and and adjustment of a traditional shaft log so dripless will make sense over long run for him.

Peter

 

[mvweebles]

BTW - average price of dripless is around $400-$700 depending on shaft size. You need the OD of stern tube and of the prop shaft. Expensive part is the yard fees to haul and back-out shaft.

Peter

First, cost of traditional packing is around $40 for the top quality stuff. 5-7 years or a couple thousand hours as a guess. PYI recommends replacing the bellows on their dripless ever 7 years. Requires haul, shaft to be removed, which may mean rudder removal. Replace cutless bearing which you're at it.

Second, for the OP, replacing with dripless is a good idea. Clearly, OP is not comfortable with maintenance and and adjustment of a traditional shaft log so dripless will make sense over long run for him.

Peter

 

[psneeld]

Great information everyone, it’s great to hear first hand experience on both. Dependant on the survey results I think we are gonna repack them to finish the season off. If things go well and trouble free why not keep them I’m thinking.
But I am still steering to dripless simply to keep bilge dry, my only experience I have is currently dripless on my twins that have just been flawless for 5 yrs. They were on pre us owning the boat and look brand new.

What is the average cost of packing?
Price of PSS dripless? I only know the shaft size, need to measure the tube to get cost.

Albin
looks great, I would have done the upgrade with the looks of that box also. What shaft coupler did you use and why?

A brand new traditional stuffing box with new hose and clamps looks pretty too...

Looks aren't everything.

 

[FF]

"For me it's no contest, dripless seals: expensive...packing seals: chump change."#39

Plus the bonus of better sleeping as the chance of a total failure of the bellows sinking the vessel is removed.

 

[albinalaska]

Great information everyone, it’s great to hear first hand experience on both. Dependant on the survey results I think we are gonna repack them to finish the season off. If things go well and trouble free why not keep them I’m thinking.
But I am still steering to dripless simply to keep bilge dry, my only experience I have is currently dripless on my twins that have just been flawless for 5 yrs. They were on pre us owning the boat and look brand new.

What is the average cost of packing?
Price of PSS dripless? I only know the shaft size, need to measure the tube to get cost.

Albin
looks great, I would have done the upgrade with the looks of that box also. What shaft coupler did you use and why?

We went with the split couplings to try to stave off any issues on future repairs. If you ever run into an issue where you need to replace your packing glands or stuffing boxes and cant get the shafts loose from the coupler assembly then you have to cut the shafts. That's what they did for this repair (which of course was incredibly expensive). The hope is (besides not letting it go to complete disrepair like the previous owner) that when it comes time to replace or the like - the split couplings can be hammered off the shaft and spare the shaft replacement cost.

 

[psneeld]

Most people I hear cut off the coupling and save the shaft... much less expensive if the shaft is reusable.


I cut my solid coupling off in minutes with a 4 inch grinder and cutting wheel.

Couple hundred versus a thousand bucks.

And yes to split couples as a good idea.

 

[Datenight]

Most people I hear cut off the coupling and save the shaft... much less expensive if the shaft is reusable.


I cut my solid coupling off in minutes with a 4 inch grinder and cutting wheel.

Couple hundred versus a thousand bucks.

And yes to split couples as a good idea.

What he said!

Rob

 

[Okydowky]

Keep this information coming, great tips! I can’t wait to be at haul out next week to check all my found knowledge out on these shafts and boxes. This is all new to me and I am not afraid to admit it, feel I know what I’m looking for and looking at...now

 

[SeaMaster101]

Comparing an old stuffing setup with no maintenance to a new dripless is not even a comparison.

One who has dealt with both and know the ins and outs can hardly find a real difference between the two....except initial cost.

"No maintenance" is replacing the bellow and O-Rings every 5 years (use to be, now every 6 years), and maybe the graphite seal if there are any scratches. And this by the way is the manufacturer recommendations.
https://waggonerguide.com/dripless-shaft-seals-may-be-dripless-but-not-maintenance-free/

 

[psneeld]

"No maintenance" is replacing the bellow and O-Rings every 5 years (use to be, now every 6 years), and maybe the graphite seal if there are any scratches. And this by the way is the manufacturer recommendations.
https://waggonerguide.com/dripless-shaft-seals-may-be-dripless-but-not-maintenance-free/

How true.....

I ran MANY different boats with PSS seals as a professional captain....if that's the only maintenance then it's slightly less than a traditional box done well.

Often, it's not.

 

[FF]

The No maint style usually requires the shaft coupling to be removed so the new goodies can be installed.


Modern packing (Duramax or equal) can be done in the water with little hassle.

 

[Okydowky]

Well I am happy to say and yes I had my doubts on the old school boxes! We are 2 months in and approx 50hrs, and the old school boxes are pretty good I have to say.
At the beginning was a learning curve when we picked up the boat. First one was hot and adjust then the other one got hot. Now I have them dialed in they are ice cold and maybe give me a cup of water in 10 hrs. Not sure how many drips that is exactly but I think it’s good.
I do have a question thought, I have a ball valve attach to each shaft tube that goes to a thru hull. Not sure of its function almost seems like a dripless scenario?
Are the rudder boxes the same for adjusting, mine are moist around the tubes, and water does accumulate, very very little. Same idea loosen lock and snug packing?

 

[Comodave]

Rudder boxes can be adjusted tighter than prop shaft boxes since rudders shafts don’t spin fast like a prop shaft. Mine don’t drip at all. My prop shaft boxes do have a barbed fitting that has a hose from the engine cooling water to help keep the boxes cool. Mine are traditional boxes. I use Duramax packing and they don’t drip either after the initial 10 hours or so run in. Then they can be adjusted to no drip.