Double stainless clamps on all hoses?

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Your statement is an opinion, not fact. Should a hose on a barb not long enough to be double-clamped be double-clamped? Go ahead. Do so and risk cutting into a hose and creating a problem that should not be. Have you not read the several posts that double-clamping is not even a recommendation of the ABYC?
Every hose on your boat that can be should be double clamped.
 
Your statement is an opinion, not fact. Should a hose on a barb not long enough to be double-clamped be double-clamped? Go ahead. Do so and risk cutting into a hose and creating a problem that should not be. Have you not read the several posts that double-clamping is not even a recommendation of the ABYC?


I think the too-short barb means a hose that can't be double clamped. So it's excluded from the "if it can be, do it" recommendation. I generally agree that if the barb is long enough, it's a good idea to double clamp, particularly on any hose below the water line or any hose that operates under pressure. Above water line drain hoses are much less of a concern.
 
I think the too-short barb means a hose that can't be double clamped. So it's excluded from the "if it can be, do it" recommendation. I generally agree that if the barb is long enough, it's a good idea to double clamp, particularly on any hose below the water line or any hose that operates under pressure. Above water line drain hoses are much less of a concern.

True, but the statement "every hose on a boat should be double clamped" might suggest a total lack of understanding why hoses either need to be or don't need to be double clamped.

I would venture to say if the USCG and ABYC agree that all don't need to be, then a statement like that is just parroting the dock talk/magazine article scribble, not the experts.

Thus why every inexperienced forum reader should investigate thread answers well beyond what they read here.

Heck, is that discussing raw water, fuel, coolant, fresh water, sanitation, sink drain, washdown, propane, icemaker, bilge pump, shower sump, dry bilge system, hydronic, air conditioning cooling and pan drains, icebox drains, wet locker drains, etc...etc...below the waterline, below the main deck, below the fly bridge??????
 
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Double clamping raw water hoses well above the waterline such as those on an anti-syphon loop is a was of time and money.

...because a leaking or failed clamp above the waterline automatically breaks the siphon. Good point.

I've got a lot of single clamped connections below the water line. Bilge work ahead for me.
 
At least once a year I go through and tighten every clamp on the boat.
 
Simi 60 said it before I read this.
Thanks
 
I've been trying to find a good retail source for AWAB or ABA 316 SS hose clamps. Is Scandvik the same as ABA? I've seen Scandvik clamps and Scandvik ABA clamps. A bit confusing. I hope spmeone can explain this an also provide a good source for the clamps. Thanks.
 
I've been trying to find a good retail source for AWAB or ABA 316 SS hose clamps. Is Scandvik the same as ABA? I've seen Scandvik clamps and Scandvik ABA clamps. A bit confusing. I hope spmeone can explain this an also provide a good source for the clamps. Thanks.

I believe ABA clamps are made by Skandvik, but not absolutely positive. I get them from Defender, Jamestown Distributers. For the large T bolt AWAB I get them from Seattle Marine.
 
Thanks Comodave. I've got them on order.
 
I am using more of these because of their superior corrosion resistance, they are much glossier and stay that way.

300 STAINLESS HOSE CLAMP 13/16″ TO 1 1/2″ | Foreverbolt

But it only says 300 stainless steel, not which version of 300 series. 316 is generally the best and better than 304 or the like. I want it spelled out what I am getting and am willing to pay a bit more for 316 clamps given what their function is. I don’t care about shiny or not, just that they are all 316.
 
They are 304
 
But it only says 300 stainless steel, not which version of 300 series. 316 is generally the best and better than 304 or the like. I want it spelled out what I am getting and am willing to pay a bit more for 316 clamps given what their function is. I don’t care about shiny or not, just that they are all 316.

You have to dig deeper. These are 304 SS treated with a proprietary process to remove impurities, improve the finish and exceed Chinese 316 commercial off the shelf quality.

These are made in the USA and so is the material, the torque strength of 304 is superior to 316.

Put them side by side, noticeable difference. Hang them off the the dock near saltwater and see what happens over time. You’ll change your mind.
 
I don’t think the AWA and AWAB are made in China, the S/S is Swedish. Point taken on others may be as good.
 
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You have to dig deeper. These are 304 SS treated with a proprietary process to remove impurities, improve the finish and exceed Chinese 316 commercial off the shelf quality.

These are made in the USA and so is the material, the torque strength of 304 is superior to 316.

Put them side by side, noticeable difference. Hang them off the the dock near saltwater and see what happens over time. You’ll change your mind.

But those clamps appear, in the photo, not to have a rolled edge and it also has perforated screw slots. Both are not good for the long term health of the clamped hose. A rolled side edge helps the clamp to not cut the hose. And the perforated screw slots do cut into the clamped hose. How many times have you removed a clamp to find the hose chewed up where the screw slots have cut into the hose? I know that I have found them many times. Why not just go with a quality 316 clamp that doesn’t hurt the hose? Check out the Practical Sailor test results of hose clamps, link in post #25.
 
But those clamps appear, in the photo, not to have a rolled edge and it also has perforated screw slots. Both are not good for the long term health of the clamped hose. A rolled side edge helps the clamp to not cut the hose. And the perforated screw slots do cut into the clamped hose. How many times have you removed a clamp to find the hose chewed up where the screw slots have cut into the hose? I know that I have found them many times. Why not just go with a quality 316 clamp that doesn’t hurt the hose? Check out the Practical Sailor test results of hose clamps, link in post #25.

I have a few in my hand right now, The NL-19 process ensures the perforations and edges are not like cheese graters, can run my hands over them smoothly.

For the few bucks it costs at Grainger or Ace or Amazon, try it out, run your own corrosion / strength test.

The practical sailor article was awhile ago, before these were available. ForeverBolt is having a lot of success in harsh environments, that is how I came across them, during the opening of oil exploration in the Arctic where there was a need for hardware to last and be able to be removed at the end of the season.
 
As I found out the hard way, there's nothing magic about AWAB clamps. One that I got from Seaboard Marine snapped on me as I tried to tighten it. Was rusted through.

BD
 
As I found out the hard way, there's nothing magic about AWAB clamps. One that I got from Seaboard Marine snapped on me as I tried to tighten it. Was rusted through.

BD

Yep, I have had some of theirs and tridon 316 rust through and if not rust, break prematurely.

Now I go 304 T Bolt clone and 304 awab no slot clones and keep plenty on hand.
Thus far they have done just as well for a fraction of the cost.
 
Regardless of what it's made of, any clamp that's low enough in the boat that it may get wet or splashed, even if just during bilge cleaning, needs to be checked periodically for corrosion. No clamp will last forever unless in a perfect environment.
 
Always wondered why more seachest/manifolds aren’t used allowing elimination of much of this problem. Any thoughts?

Also think waiting for rust to show can lead to problems. Think hard to appreciate crevice corrosion is responsible for some failures. Think it makes sense to handle and store your clamps carefully. I won’t use one if I see scratches, evidence of a prior sharp bend or other imperfections.
 
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Always wondered why more seachest/manifolds aren’t used allowing elimination of much of this problem. Any thoughts?

Also think waiting for rust to show can lead to problems. Think hard to appreciate crevice corrosion is responsible for some failures. Think it makes sense to handle and store your clamps carefully. I won’t use one if I see scratches, evidence of a prior sharp bend or other imperfections.

It becomes a trade off of more hose length vs more thru hulls and connections. Either way you have failure points and potential logistical challenges.
 
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