Copper tubing steering system replacement

[Steve DAntonio]

I understand there's a huge convenience factor for replacing with rubber hose, but it seem to me that copper tubing, especially if up-sized an extra 1/8", would present less frictional losses. That would allow moving the attachment point on the rudder arm, and thus reducing your turns lock-to-lock by a certain amount.



Or is this rather insignificant in most person's minds?

Agreed, the real value of metallic tubing is it does not expand, and so steering is more positive, less spongy. The longer the run, the more of an issue that becomes. I hate removing copper tubing if it's sound, if just the terminations are the problem, because copper tubing is essentially forever, and it has no expansion issues.

Steering manufacturers often spec maximum recommended distances for hose.

Thermoplastic tubing is easy to work with but it's not nearly as durable as armored hose.

Remember, the relief pressure for most manual hydraulic steering systems is 1,000 psi, so all the parts you use must be rated for that pressure, which means no cast bronze plumbing components, while most machined brass is rated for this pressure and higher.

 

[ben2go]

Here's a little more info from someone more knowledgeable than most of us.



https://www.sbmar.com/articles/marine-hydraulic-steering-systems/

 

[Martin J]

Well done syjos. I recently pulled 10x 5/8 soft copper through my boat. I installed a twin racor fuel polisher and connected all 5 fuel tanks and returns. The longest runs were around 30ft and not straight took me a week.

 

[ben2go]

Brupeg ran all 316 stainless steel lines in their 65ft. trawler. The tools to bend and flare SS tubing are pretty cheap. Just have to remember to go slow because SS work hardens. I would use hyd. hose at the helm pump(s) and hyd. cylinders.




I have thought about steering to much and did to much research. I've redone a few systems on smaller boats.

 

[grahamdouglass]

You guys were talking about various hydraulic oils. On my Marine Trader 41’, 15 ton, 2 station Wagner hydraulic system I use “Mineralube 10W by ESSO”, works fine, has a nice feel and it bleeds easy because its a lighter oil.

 

[Flyavater324]

Copper tube boo-boo

That's what the factory authorized rebuilder recommended and what has been in the system for 18 years.

If you have seen any of my refit threads, you should know I become obsessed. There will be a thread, with pictures, and more information than any sane person would want to know.

Ted

I bent a tube doing other repairs. Do you think 1 of those copper shark bite fittings would hold the pressure of the steering system?

 

[Comodave]

I bent a tube doing other repairs. Do you think 1 of those copper shark bite fittings would hold the pressure of the steering system?

I doubt it would. Can you either cut the tube and use a flare fitting to rejoin it or put in a custom made length of hydraulic hose to replace the bent section from fitting to fitting?

 

[mvweebles]

I bent a tube doing other repairs. Do you think 1 of those copper shark bite fittings would hold the pressure of the steering system?

Well that sucks. I hate when a 2-hour project becomes a 2-day project due to an unforced error.

Unfortunately, household water is nominal 50-60 psi. Hydraulic steering can run as high as 900 psi. You will need to splice in a flare section. If you bent it due to tight quarters. You may need to cut out more length until you have room to work.

Good luck

Peter

 

[Nick F]

Do you think 1 of those copper shark bite fittings would hold the pressure of the steering system?

Definitely NOT !

Sharkbite fitting have a 160 psi pressure rating. You should be using stuff with around 1500psi rating or more.

 

[Steve DAntonio]

Relief pressure on most manual hydraulic steering systems is 1000 or 1500 psi. It often says the pressure rating on the pump or ram.

 

[Flyavater324]

A flare joint it is! Thx for the help guys!
Al
www.MutinyCharters.com