Refrigerator/Freezer Replacement on GB 42

[JESSEDIVER49]

re; Cost to replace with 12v apt size refrigerator & freezer. The marine quality types of small refrigerators and freezers, not Home Depot-type, run about $1200 each. And there will be electrical and cabinetry work involved. so, I rounded up to "less than $4k". If I have time to do say removal work, 12v electrical feed, any new installation supports needed and just leave cabinetry work for a craftsman, my cost will be less than $3k.

[Ventana]

The Krogen we recently purchased has what I think might be the original (early 80's) AC side-by-side fridge and freezer. We are looking at a similar upgrade, probably to a DC unit.
I was at the Seattle Boat Show last weekend and spoke with several vendors that I know personally so I somewhat trust their input. For an air-cooled DC unit, it sounds like brand is not really that important. The compressors and insulation are all comparable among the major names, so it is more aesthetics and physical size. We have a DC chest freezer on the back deck so I think we are going to replace the fridge in the galley and convert the freezer space in the galley to a cabinet with shelves for storage. Our chest freezer is an Isotherm model with a smart controller and it works very well, so we may go with Isotherm even though they are more expensive. I also asked several vendors about the stainless lobster add-on, and was told that without the smart controller it could be a worthwhile purchase for a boat that spends a lot of time away from the dock.
The one thing everyone was in agreement about is that there is no reason to go with an AC/DC model for several hundred dollars more. Any reasonable battery charger will make that option unnecessary.
There are enough size options so we shouldn't have to do any cabinetry work, and I can easily do the wiring myself. I looked at smaller AC household units and am tempted by the pricing, but I am trying to remove as much of the AC equipment on the boat as I can, so will most likely go DC.

[JESSEDIVER49]

Thanks for that info. Very helpful.

[bykpjfk]

We replaced our original refrigerator on our 1997 Mainship three years ago with a Isotherm unit, and only wish we had done it sooner. Separate compressors for the frig/freezer, and everything stays cold. Milk lasts well passed expiration date, and my ice cream is rock hard.
The compressors are actually DC, so I operate mine from the DC panel. Current draw seems very low, although I have no specifics.

[jrhodes777]

I second using Seafrost. 12v, common efficient water pump, very efficient, no cabinetry modification.

[jrs1958]

I always get AC/DC. I was in the Bahamas once and had a house battery issue and was glad I had AC too. I just bought two Isotherms and one dometic freezer. Am adding auxillary fans on the two Isotherms in addition to the fans on them. I want all the hot air out of the cabinet!

[jrs1958]

Also ad insulation on the sides and top if there is a gap in the cabinet

[FF]

Folks willing to do some cabinet work should look at the Sunfrost units.

Great insulation (so large outside) and modern efficient DC power.


Sun Frost: Energy Efficient Refrigerators, Freezers, and Sustainable ...


www.sunfrost.com/
Sun Frost: worlds most energy efficient refrigerators and sustainable living products. Including composters, solar vaccine refrigerators and composting toilets.

[Mako]

Originally Posted by jrs1958

Also ad insulation on the sides and top if there is a gap in the cabinet

Any metrics of how well the insulation works, lower compressor run time, less current draw daily, etc?

[pickeringcheryl]

I recommend Coleman 120 quart coastal xtreme, I think the Coleman 120 Quart is best product with me. This cooler got more space and guaranteed to keep your fish, food and other chilled items for approximately 6 days even if the temperature is 90F. And one thing I like of this cooler is the drain plug wherein it allows the user to drain melted ice easily.

[pickeringcheryl]

Originally Posted by pickeringcheryl

I recommend Coleman 120 quart coastal xtreme, I think the Coleman 120 Quart is best product with me. This cooler got more space and guaranteed to keep your fish, food and other chilled items for approximately 6 days even if the temperature is 90F. And one thing I like of this cooler is the drain plug wherein it allows the user to drain melted ice easily.

With me this cooler is good

[FF]

The control unit on Eutetic plates is very different from a std reefer.
On a house style system a thermostat simply cuts off the power when some preset temperature is reached.

A simple thermostat does not work with cold plates as the solution in the plate must be totally frozen for the best holdover.

The control for a eutetic plate senses the vacuum on the plate tubing which is a different method of sensing temperature .

This is required as the plate freezes more slowly as the plate is frozen, since the frozen solution passes the heat to the refrigerant thru the already frozen solution. Ice is an insulator when freezing.

This system of using the level of vacuum is very common on commercial refrigeration.

I suggest you find the folks that repair butcher display cases or freezer boxes for your local market.

He should have little problem finding a slow leak, and replacing or simply adjusting the control box.

[jdecris]

I have a ‘91 Grand Banks 46 Classic, and updated my two refrigerator boxes to Seafrost 12v systems in 2018 right after I bought the boat, and am now going to install another Seafrost system for the freezer.

The existing freezer box is lined with stainless steel like the refrigerator boxes (which I left as original).

But the size of the freezer box is really much too big than I’ll ever need… so in the interest of minimizing 12v electricity use I am seriously thinking of making the existing freezer box smaller by adding insulation and some form of panels on the inside.

So… I’m wondering what you did with your freezer and how it all worked out.

Questions:

1. Did you keep your original freezer size, insulation, and liner? And if so, what size is it? And what size Seafrost system (plates, etc.) did you install in the freezer? Mine is about 28” deep from the countertop to the bottom and roughly 16” x 19” at the bottom with the outboard side larger going up as it matches the slope of the hull.

2. Do you know what the insulation is under the stainless panels in the freezer and what condition it’s in? I ask because I’m thinking if I’m going to make the box smaller it might make the best sense for me to remove the existing liner and insulation and replace with all new.

Anyway… any and all information you can share would be greatly appreciated.

[Choices]

Read my blog, grandbankschoices.

I rebuilt my units with 12vdc Danfoss parts, works great. Took a weekend.

Another 42 went the stainless drawers route. The blog shows how he did it. We have four 42s in our group, three are making the change.

The swaps are a weekend project.

The Grunert system was a great system, but it's thirty years old, and performs like it.

These DC systems are efficient and quiet. No reason not to do it.

[Sformel]

The refrigeration compressor in my 1986 GB recently gave up the ghost. It was a Grunnert unit. Grunnert was of little help. The Tecumseh model number was AJA7465AXA. Also AJ201AT-188-J7. I learned that this compressor is no longer made and that no replacement compressor with the same physical/electrical/Freon characteristics was being produced by Tecumseh. After looking everywhere for a suitable compressor I was resigned to replacing the entire system , then I found that VOOMI Supply in Pennsylvania had 10 of these compressors on the shelf. Perhaps they bought Tecumseh’s old stock , but even Tecumseh did not know it. I don’t now how many of these compressors were installed originally , but at least some. And VOOMI also gave good service.

[DennisB1]

I have a GB 49 1990 classic with holding plate refrigeration. The two refrigerator boxes hold temp about 40f and the freezer box holds between 0 and 10F. To main these temps required about. 30 minutes morning and evening run time on the generator. The compressor is a Copeland 1.5 hp unit using R404a refrigerant. It has a slow leak requiring a charge about 4 years. The run time lengthen to about 50 minutes before the recharge twice a day.

You said your compressor is running 24/7. Sounds like you need do to recharge your unit and fix a leak. What type of compressor do you have? The do a pretty good job if they are fully charged and the controls are functionable.

[JESSEDIVER49]

In my 84 GB I replaced my old Grunert unit with two separate Frig-a-boat systems. It was a DIY project and not so difficult. I kept my two boxes and removed old plates a compressor/condenser. I put my new 12 v refrigerator compressor/condenser (size of a loaf of bread) in my engine room and the freezer compressor/condenser in the salon under a seat nearby the freezer. What makes it an easy install is the evaporators and tubing come pre-charged and all you have to do is connect and tighten fittings to charge the system. No charging equipment, gauges, etc., needed.