Bad water in new boat

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Chlorine may freshen the stale water but it wont remove the cause of the smell
You should go back and read the responses. We are throwing out the "stale water" and disinfecting the tank and plumbing. Unless there's a dead raccoon in the tank, this should take care of the cause of the smell.
 
One caveat to all this is to NOT use chlorine if you have aluminum tanks! You will need another product as chlorine is very rude to AL.

That would be a real problem for those of us (most of us) who use city water to fill our tanks.
 
Just FYI, I had a persistent rotten egg smell with my fresh water. Bleach never would cure it. Finally tried hydrogen peroxide and that cleared it up. I think it was the hot water heater causing the smell, but it's gone now.

That would have been pretty easy to diagnose. If only the hot water had the smell, it would be the water heater. If both hot and cold (or just clod) had the smell, it would not be the water heater.

Water heaters usually have a sacrificial anode (similar to what you have on your boat but long and thin) and that often causes the rotten egg smell.
 
.......... Peggy's formula works out to be over 50 ppm which is what is recommended for new municipal lines and tanks at 24 hrs. 2ppm is recommended as a maintenance concentration. .

I lived in a house with a private well for over twenty years. Each time we had to service or replace the pump I was told to do essentially what I posted and what Peggy posted, dump a gallon of straight, non scented chlorine bleach down the well, run water out of every faucet until I smelled bleach, let it stand overnight and flush until I no longer smelled bleach.

That's how it's done.
 
For tanks that always have water, I found light chlorine levels work and have been using it since the 70s. I use a pool test kit and go for barely showing on the lowest level.
As water is used in the tanks, vents allow air carried bacteria to enter the tank at every reduced volume change. W/o some biocide in the tank, it will always harbor some growth, including the lines, too. I solve the chlorine problem by having filters at the galley that absorbs the chlorine and other taste issues for all drinking, cooking and ice cube water.
Before writing this, I talked with a friend that owns a 30 year old commercial aluminum boat. He uses a similar method for growth control in his tanks. His tanks have ports and are big enough to stand and walk around in. Probably thicker aluminum than yacht tank material. He finds only light shallow corrosion.
 
Lepke: What you are measuring with the "pool strips" is the residual chlorine. Basically that is chlorine that is available to kill bacteria. In water systems the minimum that should be maintained is 2 parts per million. You are correct that at that level minimal corrosion would be occurring and the residual, no matter how the bacteria may enter the tanks or appurtenances of the system is available to destroy the bacteria. That is why most all municipal systems use chlorine as a disinfectant. The only criticism I would have is that the test strips as used for pools hardly are capable of indicating chlorine at that low of a level. They do make relatively cheap DPD tests that measure at concentrations of .1 to 10 ppm.
 
Just purchased my boat last month and I don't think the water system has been on-line for a few years. It's something I want to get going right away so, thanks for all the advice and tips everyone.
 
I followed the Head Mistresses advice to the letter and it worked great! Good luck! Nice boat!
 
Hydrogen peroxide is also good for water tanks and piping disinfection. 300 grams of 30% solution of 1000 liters of water. Open every water point until you feel the scent, and let it be a day and a drain system, flush the tank yet, and when there is no odor or taste of the water is drinkable.


Sorry units is SI-systems 300grams is 0,3kg
 
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