Your Opinion? - Fuel Polishing or Multi-Stage Racor

[mvweebles]

West coast. From Alaska to Mexico. Not all in one trip, but setting the boat up to be able to head to those areas.

A polishing system is nice. You will end up with a lot valves and while you may decrease your chance of dirty fuel clogging your system, you increase the chance of human error starving your system.

Having run the Pacific from Alaska to Mexico dozens of times on dozens of boats, I think a pair of Racor 1000's is perfectly sufficient. Carry a case of extra filters. Use the size recommended by your engine manufacturer vs the armchair wisdom to install 2-micron filters in your Racors.

Best defense is to use your boat. This will improve your tactical knowledge about the boat and turnover fuel. And get you comfortable. Will do more than any polishing system ever could.

Peter

 

[jleonard]

I chose to build a simple multi-stage filtration system. The boat came with the dual Racor 500 you see in the picture below. I added the Racor 900 as a first filter (since I already owned it).
The electric fuel pump is there for priming if necessary, or to take over if the lift pump failed, OR to serve as a additional fuel filter system if required (but was never needed).
The filtering plan was 30 micron in the 900, 10 micron in the dual 500, and the on engine Lehman filters were 7 micron.
Shown was a typical filter element after a season which varied from 100 to 300 hours.

 

[mliemon2]

You can make your own polisher with a 30gph+ diesel electric pump and your existing Racor filter. Plumb it after the Racor and then back to the tank. It can run with or without the mains running, because pump valves are like check valves and only allow fuel to run in one direction.
If you think the tanks are corrupted, pick a top fuel conditioner and use a triple dose. Run the pump for a few hours. If the Racor filter doesn't plug, swap it out for a 2 micron. If that doesn't plug, you can run a 2 micron forever unless you buy really bad diesel. Get in the habit of using a good fuel conditioner and you won't have tank problems. I've run a 2 micron for the last 10 years w/o issues. I buy fuel at commercial fuel docks or places that have a high fuel volume, because the additives are fresh.

This solution is in the lead so far. But is there any benefit at that point between pre-filtering through the Racors with a pump vs. just running the fuel through those same Racors when running?

 

[Mako]

But is there any benefit at that point between pre-filtering through the Racors with a pump vs. just running the fuel through those same Racors when running?

M, that question sorta seems silly. Let's say through neglect, age, pumping bad fuel, etc., you have a dirty, water filled, algae coated fuel tank.

Option 1 - Fuel line runs directly through your Racor to your engine.
Option 2 - While docked or anchored for the night, you polish the tank perhaps 10 volume changes, until all of that crap is out of there as much as possible and the fuel is nice and clean. Then the next day you run your engine.

So do you think there is any benefit of one option over the other???

 

[catalinajack]

Remember the fuel pickup is not at the bottom of the tank and that the water and bug will be at the lowest point, or at least the bug will start there.



So if you are relying on the factory fuel pickup, you will never get it all out.



On boat was factory fitted with Separ filters which are a great design as gravity and centrifugal force is used to keep them clean longer.



The previous owner had a fuel incident and got the tanks professionally cleaned. They also installed Debug which looks like a fuel filter but uses magnets to break down the bug. No idea if they do anything.



I decided to polish my fuel recently, just to have piece of mind.



On my boat the manufacturer has drain ports mounted on top of the tanks. Basically a tube that goes all the way to the bottom of the tank, well below the fuel pick up point.



I purchased a fuel pump, a screen filter and a pair of Racors. One Racor with 30 micron, the next with 10 micron.



Fortunately for me, there was only clean diesel which was confirmed with a bright torch through the fuel sender hole.

"Remember the fuel pickup is not at the bottom of the tank and that the water and bug will be at the lowest point, or at least the bug will start there."

Your assertion is simply not true in all cases. Many boats, including mine, a DeFever 44, supply fuel from the BOTTOM of its tanks, not through a dip tube. I have opened the drain valve, which is just below the supply valve on occasion. Never in seven years of ownership and thousands of gallons of fuel have I EVER drained off a drop of water and only an occasional fleck of crud. No water, no bugs. No bugs, no bottom crud.

 

[catalinajack]

It common for people to cause themselves problems by over filtering and restricting flow. Too many guys think they should have 2 or 10 micron at the Racor and it will stop a boat from getting full RPM’s and cause fuel issues and potential damage. Yanmar specifically wants 30 micron primary.

There is no such thing as overfiltering. Filters, whether they are 2 micron, 10 micron, or 30 micron all flow fuel at the same rate witin a filter model so, no, that 2-micron Racor will NOT stop a boat unless you neglect to change it when its filtering capacity has been reached, that is, when particulates have plugged it up. If one is paying attention - vacuum gauge monitoring - that will not happen. A 30-micron filter will become plugged up the same way just not as fast. Talk about an urban legend! And what damage will happen anyway? Lack of fuel? The engine stops. Have you nevrr run a car out of gas. Just fill the tank and go.

 

[O C Diver]

This solution is in the lead so far. But is there any benefit at that point between pre-filtering through the Racors with a pump vs. just running the fuel through those same Racors when running?

That's what we did on my friend's boat with the Lehman and Racor 900. Below is a link to a good piston / plunger style pump company. This style of pump is super reliable and quite common on some marine generators. This is the manufacturer's website with specs on all their pumps up to 50 GPH. Find the model you want from their spec page and Google Facet and the model number. Easy to find an online vendor.

https://www.facet-purolator.com/cube/

Ted

 

[Martin J]

Racor polisher

Another very interesting thread. I myself built my own system like many others. The reason was the unreliability of the fuel when in different countries. I based mine on a dual 1000 system I found in MARINE CONNECTIONS IN Ft Pierce. I gave much thought to what I needed. We carry 3500 galls in 5 tanks. 4 storage and one day tank. One problem was obtaining the right pump. With a low enough capacoty for the racors to work properly. A lot of the commercial available systems use 7-8 galls a min, far too powerful to allow the racors to be efficient for water removal. I also considered the plumbing to allow the 4 storage tanks to gravity feed thru the system to the day tank in the keel. A further consideration was to allow the storage tanks the capability to gravity feed direct to the day tank (1400 Galls). Over the years, I've had the occasional dirty filter always in heavy weather when some %$^&%^* has moved in a tank. This upgrade was not easy, trying to move 1/2" soft copper thru the boat with no joints was not easy. However, it was worth it, and I sleep better at night. All in all the aim was to ensure the engine filters are clean and the last line of defense, not the main line of defense against dirty / contaminated fuel.

 

[markpierce]

My fuel polishing system has bee downgraded for fuel transfer among several fuel tanks. Found domestic USA fuel sources not requiring filtering. International traveling might make a polishing system worthwhile.

 

[MYTraveler]

If you are really concerned about feeding your engines good fuel, I would recommend a day tank -- one into which you can send pre-filtered fuel and that has enough capacity to run the mains at cruising speed for 24+ hours.

I don't have a day tank (I wanted it to be gravity fed and just couldn't find the space), and don't have a fuel polishing system. But, I have never had a problem, either. If I did, I believe my existing filtration, combined with the ability to draw from (and return to) any of three tanks, would take care of it. I also installed a second tank port (what is the right word here) that draws from the very bottom of the tank -- where the crud is most likely to accumulate. In a dire situation, I could draw from those low spots, send to through my existing primary filtration (racors that I could put 30, 10 or 2 micron filters into) and back into whatever tank. But, I still think a day tank, high enough to feed by gravity, in case the engine's lift pump failse, would be the best solution.

 

[mliemon2]

Thank you everyone for you help. Attached is a quick sketch of what I'm thinking based on everyones feedback.

I would utilize the existing Racor 1000 duplex I have, and add another Razor 1000 duplex in line. After both of those, I'd put in a three way valve that could shift flow to a pump and back to the tank. With this setup, I could polish the fuel when I'm at rest, run with 2x the filters I currently have, and if there's an issue underway, throw the valve on the dirty duplex to change to a clean filter.

Thoughts on this layout?

BTW - I wish I had room for a day tank, but unfortunately don't.

 

[mvweebles]

You're missing the 3 way valve on the return. Since you can't run the polishing system underway, you can get virtually all benefit by running just the single set of Racors you already have, just twice as long. First with 10 micron, then switch to 2 micron. See how it goes from there. I'm pretty sure you'll end up realizing the. 10 micron filtration is far more than you need.

Good luck

Peter

 

[twistedtree]

Personally, I don’t think I’d make any changes to your fuel system. The dual Racors are designed precisely to deal with contamination that quickly plugs filters. You just switch the valve to a clean filter, change the bad one, and continue on.

Instead of adding another filer or a “polisher” that really adds no incremental value, I’d buy a case of filters, and try real hard to figure out how to inspect/clean your tanks.

 

[koliver]

If you are really concerned about feeding your engines good fuel, I would recommend a day tank -- one into which you can send pre-filtered fuel and that has enough capacity to run the mains at cruising speed for 24+ hours.

I don't have a day tank (I wanted it to be gravity fed and just couldn't find the space), and don't have a fuel polishing system. But, I have never had a problem, either. If I did, I believe my existing filtration, combined with the ability to draw from (and return to) any of three tanks, would take care of it. I also installed a second tank port (what is the right word here) that draws from the very bottom of the tank -- where the crud is most likely to accumulate. In a dire situation, I could draw from those low spots, send to through my existing primary filtration (racors that I could put 30, 10 or 2 micron filters into) and back into whatever tank. But, I still think a day tank, high enough to feed by gravity, in case the engine's lift pump failse, would be the best solution.

Having seen the bottom of one of my tanks, after 41 years, I don't think a pickup (Correct word?) at the lowest point is of much, if any, value over the usual top mounted pickup pipe that ends above the bottom of the tank. That is because the "crud" is mobile and will follow the suction or is very much NOT mobile. See my previous post at #29. A lower pickup will certainly get the crud from that specific location, but the stuff coating the bottom of my tank was the consistency of peanut butter, so none would travel to a pickup, no matter where located. Any crud that did get into my tanks was picked up by the top mounted pipe. I am not assuming no crud whatsoever was in my tanks, as they were first filled with fuel in 1980. At that time I had a different boat, but was on a twice a year filter change regime, sometimes more often as the need arose, before LS and long before ULS Diesel.

 

[Kubcat]

Looks like DeFevers have very well designed tanks, I have yet to own a boat like that and I have had dozens.

"Remember the fuel pickup is not at the bottom of the tank and that the water and bug will be at the lowest point, or at least the bug will start there."

Your assertion is simply not true in all cases. Many boats, including mine, a DeFever 44, supply fuel from the BOTTOM of its tanks, not through a dip tube. I have opened the drain valve, which is just below the supply valve on occasion. Never in seven years of ownership and thousands of gallons of fuel have I EVER drained off a drop of water and only an occasional fleck of crud. No water, no bugs. No bugs, no bottom crud.

 

[long-cours.62]

Alfa Laval

Unfortunately we can't afford , even , a smallest Alfa Laval..
I think centrifugal is the best solution




https://www.alfalaval.com/globalass...c-filters-for-fuel-and-lubricating-oil-ti.pdf


Because look at what we found in the tanks when we cleaned them after purchased our trawler



​

Beurk !!

​

 

[Porgy]

Don’t know if it’s been mentioned but, from everything I’ve read, bio-growth (mostly bacteria but also as previously noted fungi and yeast but, obviously not algae) requires water to survive. It resides in the boundary between water and fuel and the tiny bio carcasses are what get sucked into the fuel filter. Absent water, there shouldn’t be anything growing in the tank. What exactly is it one feels the need to filter on some ongoing basis and is filtering treating the symptom and not the cause.

I drain off a sample from the bottom at least twice a year and always prior to heading into the ocean. In the last 9,000 gallons of fuel, I’ve drained exactly two drops of water and a rare few infinitesimal specks of something. My additional fuel practices include buying fuel from a reputable source with a steady turnover, checking the fuel fill deck plate o-rings and greasing them, checking primary vacuum at WOT and changing all filters on a regular schedule. Our boat gets used but may also stay in one place for several months at a time and I’ve never seen any indication of any need to further filter the fuel. Recognizing of course, I’m merely adding one more anecdote to the pile.

Another thing if not mentioned that can clog filters are asphaltenes from the break down of fuel. Usually associated with fuel sitting around for a relatively long time, possibly also associated with high pressure heat with common rail. Using the boat is the best remedy but filtering out asphaltenes, while keeping the engine running, also means the fuel is not in peak condition anymore. Apparently some see it in their filters or bowls and assume it’s “bugs” or worse, algae when it’s as likely to be asphaltenes.

 

[O C Diver]

Thank you everyone for you help. Attached is a quick sketch of what I'm thinking based on everyones feedback.

I would utilize the existing Racor 1000 duplex I have, and add another Razor 1000 duplex in line. After both of those, I'd put in a three way valve that could shift flow to a pump and back to the tank. With this setup, I could polish the fuel when I'm at rest, run with 2x the filters I currently have, and if there's an issue underway, throw the valve on the dirty duplex to change to a clean filter.

Thoughts on this layout?

BTW - I wish I had room for a day tank, but unfortunately don't.

I don't really think the second duplex Racor will gain you much. The first will pick up through coalescing, the water and heavy particulate that settles in the bowl. I'm assuming the engine has a filter after the lift pump to get the fuel to the cleanliness required for the engine. It would seem to me that if you had to switch Racors on the duplex, you would probably want to change the final filter on the engine when you next anchored or docked for the night. On my engine there are 2 filters (10 micron and 2 micron) on the engine (before and after the lift pump) and a duplex Racor 1000. I've never had to do it, but if I had to switch the duplex Racor, I would change the other 2 filters when stopping for the night. Basically I'm resetting ALL the fuel filtration to new. Otherwise, there's no way of knowing how close to fouled the final filter on your engine is. I think keeping your filtration the way it is and adding the fuel pump after the Racor duplex to increase fuel turn over would be a very good system. If you don't already have one, I would add a vacuum gauge with a tell tail after the Racor and before your fuel circulating pump, to track loading of the racor filter element. If leaving the USA, I would want several complete sets of fuel filters.

Ted

 

[ranger58sb]

We currently have two 300 gallon tanks and duplex Racor 1000s for each engine.

What do you think would be better:

1) Installing another set of duplex Racor 1000’s inline with the existing ones for multistage filtration before it hits the engine. The though here is if there is an issue, we could quickly switch to the backups.

2) Install a fuel polishing system from ESI or Reverso. This would be the most expensive option and much more work on the plumbing side. I’m not sure how effective it would be if we just took on fuel and the system doesn’t have time to run/polish.

3) Install a multi stage spin on filter system after the existing Racor 1000’s we have. THis is suggested by Tony Athens. The issue I see here is no sight gauges and I can’t swap between filters if there’s an issue.

Your 4th option is to create your own polishing system that is simple and low cost.

Fifth option, for coastal cruising. Do nothing.

Unless you're starting with pre-existing crud in your tanks. In that case, have a commercial service polish your existing fuel and get your tanks clean, then do nothing much after that.

Dual Racors and on-engine secondary should be sufficient.

Maybe use a Baja filter if you have to take on questionable fuel some place... although I'd suspect it's easy enough to find clean fuel anyway.

-Chris

 

[KnotYet]

Thank you everyone for you help. Attached is a quick sketch of what I'm thinking based on everyones feedback.

I would utilize the existing Racor 1000 duplex I have, and add another Razor 1000 duplex in line. After both of those, I'd put in a three way valve that could shift flow to a pump and back to the tank. With this setup, I could polish the fuel when I'm at rest, run with 2x the filters I currently have, and if there's an issue underway, throw the valve on the dirty duplex to change to a clean filter.

Thoughts on this layout?

BTW - I wish I had room for a day tank, but unfortunately don't.

This is not a polishing system so it's of limited value.
If you add a second set of filters they should be isolated from the primaries.
Use tees from each tank with valves so that one tank can be polished while
the other is fueling the engine(s).

 

[Chuck34]

Agree with RTF. The Detroit 871's I had returned a lot of fuel. The Cummins 6bt's that i have now return very little. So it depends on the engine.

Depends more on the installed fuel pump. I used to have a sailboat and I burned, at most, 3/4 gal per hour. Fuel pump pumped 10 gallons an hour. I polished a lot of fuel every time I ran my engine.

 

[Hippocampus]

Have much interest in this thread. After we bought our ran it from Noak Connecticut to East Greenwich RI. No issues. Then non stop to Deltaville Va. had to go inside because couldn’t run the SeaKeeper because the Onan wouldn’t work.
Now Nordic Tug 42s have two tanks. The port tank feeds the Cummins and the Starboard feeds the Onan. There’s a crossover to keep the tanks equal when left open which it is usually. There’s a polishing system on the boat which makes use of the same set of duplex Racors that feed the Cummins. P.O. told me he rarely used it. Now not ABYC to my understanding but my boat draws from the bottom on the side not from a dip tube.
Still given we ran at 10 knots boat was slightly bow up. So whatever crud/water was moved to the aft bottom where the pick ups are. No problem for port tank much more quickly than the starboard one. But big problem for the Onan even after replacing its pre filter entire unit (thought about an air leak). Final filter would just clog shortly.

So polishing units don’t work unless very carefully thought out and religiously used. . True tank cleaning is really the gold standard and then entire fuel polishing by a off boat professional unit unless your boat is large enough to have a really serious polishing system. Although a great idea if feasible day tanks don’t solve the problem for the supplying fuel tanks. Still need to keep those clean. Baha filters are a PIA. Prefiltering whenever you take on fuel is wonderful if you can do it. No garbage in less garbage out.

 

[OldDan1943]

my opinion, I dont care if you buy or build one but get one.
But then I think you knew my opinion.

 

[TowLou]

How old is the fuel?
Has it been treated with luberciticy like power service or anti alge?
What is the conditipn of the tanks?
How often do you plan to use the boat and how much fuel do you plan to use and replace?

I am not for polishing it but to have a bypass setup with identical filtering if I started to clog my primary filters in the raccor. If you think fuel needs to be polished, it is to old and has turned.

 

[OldDan1943]

How old is the fuel?
Has it been treated with luberciticy like power service or anti alge?
What is the conditipn of the tanks?
How often do you plan to use the boat and how much fuel do you plan to use and replace?

I am not for polishing it but to have a bypass setup with identical filtering if I started to clog my primary filters in the raccor. If you think fuel needs to be polished, it is to old and has turned.

The amazing thing about diesel fuel is, it will last one heck of a lot longer than gas if treated well.

 

[O C Diver]

On my boat there are port and starboard fuel tanks. Originally the generator fed off the starboard and the engine could feed off of either. During my refit, repower, and complete replumbing of the fuel system, I switched the engine to the starboard tank only. Originally I wanted to add a day tank, but that wasn't practical ( no place for it). So, all fuel is put into the port tank and transfered / polished to the starboard tank as needed to keep the boat level port to starboard and make up for used fuel. This system works extremely well and allows me to polish either tanks fuel or to transfer it to the other tank.

My boat lists quite a bit to starboard when I head to the fuel dock as I have transferred / polished all the fuel in the port tank to the starboard tank. Then I usually fill the port tank and rebalance. Usually every 2nd or third day underway I have to transfer fuel.

May not be everyone's idea for a guaranteed tank of clean fuel, but it sure works for me and gives me peace of mind.





Ted

 

[OldDan1943]

I laugh without regrets when I remember the fuel manifold of my N46. I sat in front of it for over an hour, drawing out the possibility of the line up. It had 4 tanks plus a fuel polisher.
Now I have 2 tanks and a fuel polishers. That's complicated enough.

 

[Lepke]

If your Racor plus the engines maximum need is below the Racor rated capacity then you can run your fuel polishing system while you cruise.
Using a proper fuel additive every fuel up will clean out tank sludge over time and leave the tank w/o sludge or water.
A proper additive kills any bugs in the tank and prevents new formation of sludge. It also slowly dissolves the sludge and enhances a turbine Racor ability to remove the water. At first you'll find more water in the bowl that will become less with time. The former sludge takes several months to dissolve. I've never seen it dissolve so fast it suddenly plugs a filter.
Having 2 Racors in a row is overkill. Try a 10 micron. If it doesn't plug too fast, try a 2. I run 2 microns and my main tanks are 80 years old. As backup, my engine mounted filters are 10.

You don't need an Alfa Laval. I have on of these: high speed WVO centrifuges, Algae centrifuge, Oil Centrifuge, oil transfer pumps and drum heaters. - US Filtermaxx
I use it for engine oil, but know people that also use it for biodiesel. It gets my engine oil so clean it tests as new oil. I haven't actually changed oil since 2011, just test before centrifuging.

 

[READY]

Just keep in mind that the real culprit is probably the crud that settles at the bottom of the tank. No problem until you get into rough seas and it is stirred up. So consider having a way (compressed air thru a wand or small pipe or a very high flow pump?) to stir things up before you polish or filter it.

 

[OldDan1943]

On the AT, the fuel feed line is butt welded to the bottom of the tanks therefore, the fuel polisher can be a great benefit.