Wrapped a line around my prop. That’s was fun :/

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The last time I needed to inspect my running gear I sent my son in law down there.

Easy if you have the right help available.

pete
 
I would suggest checking the engine-to-shaft alignment by use of a feeler gauge at the shaft coupler. You know, disconnect it and conduct the well-known checks at each 90-degree point.

There was no doubt my engine alignment was screwed in 1987 when I tangled a 1/2-inch nylon trailer line running from the mooring buoy I was using back to the aft mooring line lying on the bottom in my stbd shaft. The line got in between the prop hub and the aft strut bearing and then level wound pushing the strut forward and the prop aft. Broke three engine mounts and taken to an extreme could have put the engine in the bilge. The strut supports COULD have bent enough to breach the hull and sink the boat, but the engine stalled. I got three new mounts and two car jacks and some chain and took the weight of the engine to replace the mounts one at a time before realigning the engine to the shaft, miraculously unbent. It took a haulout some four months later to get the strut pulled and remounted with the proper targeting.
 
Assuming we remember, we pull the dinghy in close against the transom before maneuvering,passing between moored boats, docking, and especially backing. Seems to work.
And of course there`s the shrinkage from the dives, not of the dinghy painter.
 
Nobody can guarantee to ALWAYS remember to short tie the dinghy before backing up.
That is why a short painter is advisable. Measure the distance between the closest point of attachment of the dinghy end of the painter and the nearest propeller. Make the painter slightly less than double that length.
In my case that distance also works out to allow me to attach the boat end to my midships cleat and have the stern rest against the side of the swimgrid, when at anchor. That makes boarding simple and leaves the swimgrid free. Towing the dinghy at 8 knots, it is vary well behaved on a ~15' painter and I have never had to worry about backing over the painter.
 
True Keith, but one untangling in cold water is likely to burn the need into memory. Like our IG, you only banged your head once or twice on the overhead locker before learning.
 
Our turn was in COLD Lk Superior, though fortunately is a shallow bay having a narrow opening, so the water was a bit warmer than ambient. No mask aboard, but I could just barely reach the prop while keeping my head above water. Our swim platform provided a very effective hand hold for my free hand. We did have a couple of sharp knives aboard. The culprit was a Polypropylene tow line for our dinghy. PP is SUPPOSED to float, but this one failed. We now use a larger dia PP line, one of those 3-strand twist lines that are very stubborn when it comes to holding a knot. But it FLOATS.
 
The last time I needed to inspect my running gear I sent my son in law down there.

Easy if you have the right help available.

pete

LOL. He must be young and afraid you will take your daughter back.
 
Get a hooka. The compressor will provide air via a hose and regulator..Some folks, like me, are air hogs. Buy a larger reservoir tank. Your other option is to buy the regulator double LONG hose and hook it to an a standard SCUBA tank. I carry 4 tanks onboard. The brand I use is Third Lung. They are local to Ft Lauderdale.

I forgot to add, depending on where you operate, either a 3 or 5 mm wet suit and weight belt to achieve neutral buoyancy. Before getting into the water, pour some ‘warm’ or hotter water down the back inside and chest before zipping up the suit. You’d be surprised how much this water will preheat the wet suit and you.
 
Before getting into the water, pour some ‘warm’ or hotter water down the back inside and chest before zipping up the suit.

I'm sure that I will remember that one. I think that I was breathing hard just at the thought of having to get into Puget Sound. It actually wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, but the pre-heating idea would be great.

As to poly lines not floating as well as one would hope, for an unrelated project I once made a poly line with super floatation. Get a length of "closed cell foam backer rod" (you can get it in small lengths) and put 4" pieces of it inside of the yellow poly rope. It can actually make the poly rope coil nicer and it won't get sucked down.
 
I forgot to add, depending on where you operate, either a 3 or 5 mm wet suit and weight belt to achieve neutral buoyancy. Before getting into the water, pour some ‘warm’ or hotter water down the back inside and chest before zipping up the suit. You’d be surprised how much this water will preheat the wet suit and you.

Dry suit here- I'll dive with wetsuits in tropical locales for protection against stings and coral, but up here in the PNW, I'll only go over the side in a drysuit.
 
Nobody can guarantee to ALWAYS remember to short tie the dinghy before backing up.
That is why a short painter is advisable. Measure the distance between the closest point of attachment of the dinghy end of the painter and the nearest propeller. Make the painter slightly less than double that length.
In my case that distance also works out to allow me to attach the boat end to my midships cleat and have the stern rest against the side of the swimgrid, when at anchor. That makes boarding simple and leaves the swimgrid free. Towing the dinghy at 8 knots, it is vary well behaved on a ~15' painter and I have never had to worry about backing over the painter.

I agree that you can't guarantee to remember, however the challenge with a short painter is twofold. When the wind kicks up at anchor, the dinghy rides better with more 'scope'. Otherwise it really starts to thrash around.

At very crowded dinghy docks, sometimes we are 2 or even three deep (mostly thanks to those inconsiderate enough to tie 8" of painter to the dinghy dock :)banghead:). It helps to have a long painter and simply climb through the dinghys to the dock.
 

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