Wiper Replacement

[firstbase]

Originally Posted by BruceK

Bigger picture helps,the grooves on the stub may not be enough to lock the rotating arm part which slides over them. But temporarily, epoxy may be your friend, combined with the screw fixing, while you find a new motor and stub. When the epoxy fails,do the replacement.

Good temp solution. I think the grooves are toast but will see today.

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. f. IF it is possible to purchase a new wiper arm with a set screw fastener rather than the spring clip (never liked those spring clip do-dads. Quite difficult to align for best "sweep") you may still be able to use the existing splined knob after cleaning it up.
Keep in mind you will have to ensure the bore of the new arm socket will fit what you have.

[koliver]

three of those on my boat. The one in the centre is on a wider window than the other two, so the sweep is larger. The tips of the blades have each dug a small recess is the teak surround. This must have occurred long ago, as the varnish in those recesses hasn't been damaged since I have owned this boat.
All of which is to observe that there must be an adjustment of the sweep, only visible if you open up the motor housing. The positioning of the blade on the post will control keeping the blade away from the window frames.

[DHeckrotte]

Keith, I think you'll find that the motor/transmission unit is marked and sold with a fixed sweep. Were you to open one up, you'll find that the motor turns a worm gear which in turn causes a disc to rotate. That disc has a pin whose distance from its center sets the sweep. (Lousy description betrays a hazy memory for the details.)

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. k. Mr. DH is correct. The sweep is non adjustable via the motor mechanism BUT is adjustable by means of arm/blade length. The longer the overall length of the arm AND the blade, the greater the arc that the bottom of the blade traverses. So, if the bottom of the blade contacts the window frame, either install a shorter arm or move the bottom tip of the blade closer to the motor.

[FlyWright]

Originally Posted by koliver

three of those on my boat. The one in the centre is on a wider window than the other two, so the sweep is larger. The tips of the blades have each dug a small recess is the teak surround. This must have occurred long ago, as the varnish in those recesses hasn't been damaged since I have owned this boat.
All of which is to observe that there must be an adjustment of the sweep, only visible if you open up the motor housing. The positioning of the blade on the post will control keeping the blade away from the window frames.

The Marinco motor I bought had multiple settings for angle of sweep....something like 80, 110 degrees and maybe another.

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. FW. I stand corrected.

[RCook]

Originally Posted by AlaskaProf

I've never been able to set my blades to just sweep the windshield. They always cross one side of the frame or the other. I'm thinking one of the pantograph types may be the solution. Does anyone have experience with these.

Love my pantograph wipers! They easily cover more of each windshield than the simple ones, and are more adjustable. Have AFI's on my 26-footer and now AME on the Nordic Tug.

[firstbase]

The motor I found that matches model number exactly only mentions an 80 degree sweep. I did find other similar models that do have user variable sweep.

Pantographs would be great but do they fit on the same motor/shaft I have or do the motors have to be flipped out to something that matches them specifically? Not sure how they attach.

Remember, before I started this project my involvement with windshield wipers was to tell Goodyear "No, I don't want them replaced" as they tend to lie 50% of the time. Due to that I tell them yes every other time.

[firstbase]

Originally Posted by RT Firefly

Greetings,
Mr. f. IF it is possible to purchase a new wiper arm with a set screw fastener rather than the spring clip (never liked those spring clip do-dads. Quite difficult to align for best "sweep") you may still be able to use the existing splined knob after cleaning it up.
Keep in mind you will have to ensure the bore of the new arm socket will fit what you have.

Good idea Mr. RTF. Going to the boat today to investigate further. My wife offered her suggestion after seeing several of the prices I was looking at..."Why don't we get some RainX and try to not go out in the rain?".

Actually I found the prices of most of the motors/arms/blades much less than I expected. There are some that are up there though....

[Maerin]

Originally Posted by firstbase

The motor I found that matches model number exactly only mentions an 80 degree sweep. I did find other similar models that do have user variable sweep.

Pantographs would be great but do they fit on the same motor/shaft I have or do the motors have to be flipped out to something that matches them specifically? Not sure how they attach.

I've been through this with my own, it's tedious! Yes, you can typically put pantographs on a standard single post driver, the pantograph has an adapter that fits over the shaft and fastens to the base surface. There are myriad configurations, you need to determine the geometry and the best combination for your application.


As far as the angle, it's determined by swinging an arc from the drive arm to the centerline of the wiper path, determine the limit of the swing in either direction, then measure the included angle, that's the degree of travel of the shaft.

[Pgitug]

You will find everything you need to replace your rusted linkage at the site listed below. Call them. They are very helpful. Replaced all my wiper linkages.

http://store.amequipment.com/

[C lectric]

When you reassemble the arm to the wiper motor shaft, the splined plug, smear the plug and the ID of the arm with grease. Just a good smear. That will stop the two pieces from corroding and seizing together.

THat little spring clip can be a pain. I use a flat blade screwdriver after , as FW mentioned., lifting the arm UP.