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08-24-2017, 12:08 AM
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#1
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Guru
City: Inside Passage Summer/Columbia River Winter
Vessel Name: Alaskan Sea-Duction
Vessel Model: 1988 M/Y Camargue YachtFisher
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,026
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Windlass Hole sealing
So as most of you know I had to install a new windlass. The new one was a perfect fit, with the exception of the shaft hole. I had to enlarge it from 2.5 inches to 5 1/8 inches.
Crusty suggested when i get back home, i needed to "seal" the hole with a layer of resin and glass.
Can I seal ot with just resin or do I need to glass it too? If I need to glass it, then I will need to enlarge the hole a bit to accommodate that.
Suggestions and/or ideas?
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08-24-2017, 02:18 AM
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#2
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Guru
City: Sydney
Vessel Name: Sojourn
Vessel Model: Integrity 386
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 12,924
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My first thought is Sikaflex 291 (or equivalent ? 5200). It`s what we used around our replacement foot switch, admittedly it was only installed recently, but that stuff is good, even underwater, and easy to use.
__________________
BruceK
2005 Integrity 386 "Sojourn"
Sydney Australia
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08-24-2017, 04:33 AM
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#3
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Guru
City: Adelaide
Vessel Name: Kokanee
Vessel Model: Cuddles 30 Pilot House Motor Sailer
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,215
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I just use epoxy with a thickener to seal any cored deck cutouts. It stops any water intrusion into the core.
First a coat neat, then another coat with thickener.
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08-24-2017, 09:57 AM
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#4
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Moderator Emeritus
City: SEWARD ALASKA
Vessel Name: DOS PECES
Vessel Model: BAYLINER 4788
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,956
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I smeared 5200 in the enlarged hole.
Yes you could glass the hole but in my case 5200 took 15 minutes and sealed just fine.
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08-24-2017, 10:59 AM
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#5
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Guru
City: Powell River, BC
Vessel Name: Northern Spy
Vessel Model: Nordic Tug 26
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 3,971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AusCan
I just use epoxy with a thickener to seal any cored deck cutouts. It stops any water intrusion into the core.
First a coat neat, then another coat with thickener.
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Same here.
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08-24-2017, 11:20 AM
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#6
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Guru
City: Philadelphia, PA
Vessel Name: Revel
Vessel Model: 1984 Fu Hwa 39
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,024
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Presuming we're talking about sealing the exposed core in the hole/bore: I second the epoxy coating. You can see it. You can verify it. You can recoat it.
Or you can make a jolly mess with sealants, as I surely would!
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08-24-2017, 01:18 PM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 19,154
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If the deck is cored, I would reef out the core around the hole about 1/4". Then paint the core with unthickened epoxy. Fill the reefed out core area with thickened epoxy and it is good to go. Some will say that this is overkill, but if it stops your coring from getting wet and rotting, it is well worth the extra half hour of work. You can use a dremel tool with a bit to cut the core out or an allen wrench with the short side cut down and the chuck it into a drill and use it to reef out the core.
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08-24-2017, 02:37 PM
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#8
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Guru
City: Queensland
Vessel Model: Milkraft 60 converted timber prawn trawler
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 5,135
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Depends on the core.
Balsa core - route out core 1/2 inch as commodave describes above, fill with epoxy/glue powder/chopped fiberglass strand mix
Ply core - good drink of resin on end grain and glass over
Foam core - nothing
If decks are foam or balsa I would have removed it all around a windlass and put in a solid insert anyway.
All bolt holes oversized, fiber reinforced resin filled and redrilled to correct size leaving solid glue annulus.
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08-24-2017, 03:02 PM
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#9
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Guru
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 22,553
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A tube of West 6-10 is thickened epoxy with filler that is thixotropic.
It doesn't flow unless you move it.
A popisicle stick , small cup and your'e done.
Remove the cap, clean it and you can usually use the stuff all season, refrigeration helps.
If you are lazy , this will work perfectly.
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08-24-2017, 05:07 PM
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#10
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Guru
City: North Charleston, SC
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,774
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I use epoxy. I cover any exposed plywood or core. I just use hardware store epoxy, usually the quick cure kind. No strength is required and no UV resistance. Just waterproofing.
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