What would you do about this mess?
- Thread starter Dougcole
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
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O C Diver
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Soak it with your favorite penetrating oil. Find the smallest 12 point socket you can drive on with a hammer while supporting the back side of the steering wheel, and then put a breaker bar on the socket and unscrew it. Put several layers of painter's tape on the wheel next to the nut to protect it from the socket.
Trd
Trd
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I can't tell if the nut is recessed or not. It it is NOT recessed, you can use a nut cracker on it. (see attached link). It will split/cut the nut, may have to do once, then move nut cracker 180 degrees, do again, and the nut will come off in two pieces.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...MI97KUuKaE6QIVEq_ICh16fg_aEAQYASABEgLxDvD_BwE
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...MI97KUuKaE6QIVEq_ICh16fg_aEAQYASABEgLxDvD_BwE
boathealer
Guru
If you are careful, I would think a Dremel and carbide disk would take care of that without messing up the wheel. You could also tape some protective material onto the wheel - right up to the nut.
A favorite trick is to weld another nut (or larger bolt) to the rounded off nut. If the shaft
is proud I'd grind it flush first. Obviously protect the spokes and helm area from spatter.
The heat of welding helps break it loose, too.
is proud I'd grind it flush first. Obviously protect the spokes and helm area from spatter.
The heat of welding helps break it loose, too.
Last edited:
High Wire
Guru
I'm with the cut the nut off crowd. Dremel or cold chisel. There might be enough nut left for vise grips.
The question is what will be left on the wheel and will it clean up? What will you do to prevent the same thing from happening again?
The question is what will be left on the wheel and will it clean up? What will you do to prevent the same thing from happening again?
A stainless nut and anti-seize on the threads will make it last as long as the wheel.
Gulf Comanche
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Heat gun along w/ the other suggestions.
OP
OP
Dougcole
Guru
Thanks for all the good suggestions. I love that nut splitter, I think I'll order one of those.
I had my mechanic install this helm about 5 or 6 years ago, that's about all I get out of a helm on this boat, the shafts rust and they get stiff. He told me that he couldn't find a stainless nut to fit it in his shop and that I should replace it, but I never got around to it. I hate the way it looks, but honestly it didn't really shorten the life much as the shaft is as rusted as the bolt is. It's a teleflex helm, seems like they would use a stainless shaft but you know how that goes.
I'm stuck at home like everyone else, so I decided to change the helm myself. Now if I could just figure out a way to jury rig a wheel puller.
I had my mechanic install this helm about 5 or 6 years ago, that's about all I get out of a helm on this boat, the shafts rust and they get stiff. He told me that he couldn't find a stainless nut to fit it in his shop and that I should replace it, but I never got around to it. I hate the way it looks, but honestly it didn't really shorten the life much as the shaft is as rusted as the bolt is. It's a teleflex helm, seems like they would use a stainless shaft but you know how that goes.
I'm stuck at home like everyone else, so I decided to change the helm myself. Now if I could just figure out a way to jury rig a wheel puller.
OP
OP
Dougcole
Guru
That would be the right thing to do, for sure. But the shaft would still rust, it's not stainless.
OP
OP
Dougcole
Guru
I put some study to the helm today. There is actually a pretty good space behind the wheel where I can get to the shaft with a sawzall. Since I'm replacing the helm anyway, now I'm considering cutting through the shaft then tapping it out of the wheel from the back. Anybody see an issue with this?
There must be a flange or step that the wheel tightens against. Otherwise it would be loose.
C lectric
Guru
Some shafts have a taper which the wheel hub will seat on. If that is the case it will not tap out from behind.
Do you know if the wheel is taper mounted?
Or as suggested it seats on a machined in collar.
Do you know if the wheel is taper mounted?
Or as suggested it seats on a machined in collar.
OP
OP
Dougcole
Guru
You are right about the taper, it wouldn't work to tap it out. I'm dyslexiic (not joking) and had the taper direction fouled up in my brain. Back to the nut splitter.
Thanks for your help, you saved me from making the job worse.
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RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Mr. D. Cut the shaft. Not worth screwing around while the wheel is on the boat. On the bench with a beverage in hand makes for a LOT of inventive thinking.
IF possible, I would probably use a hand hacksaw. I know it's more work BUT any vibrations from the sawzall may irritate nearby gauges AND if you happen to slip (perish the thought) with the electrical "destroyer" you may do damage to the console.
Also IF possible, leave enough "stub" on the shaft (the part still attached to the wheel) to grip in a bench vice (3rd hand).
Mr. D. Cut the shaft. Not worth screwing around while the wheel is on the boat. On the bench with a beverage in hand makes for a LOT of inventive thinking.
IF possible, I would probably use a hand hacksaw. I know it's more work BUT any vibrations from the sawzall may irritate nearby gauges AND if you happen to slip (perish the thought) with the electrical "destroyer" you may do damage to the console.
Also IF possible, leave enough "stub" on the shaft (the part still attached to the wheel) to grip in a bench vice (3rd hand).
Last edited:
Pete Meisinger
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I don't like the idea of cutting the shaft. You never know where the shaft goes, what it is connected to and what hell you might have pay replace it.
Take a look at Youtube about frozen and rusted nuts. There are lots of options. I have had best luck with welding another nut on top of the frozen one.
pete
Take a look at Youtube about frozen and rusted nuts. There are lots of options. I have had best luck with welding another nut on top of the frozen one.
pete
Transaxial
Senior Member
Lots of good suggestions here but I have a couple of go to favorites not mentioned. Badly rusted nuts are often slightly smaller size due to loss of metal from rust (and already have corners rounded off) so a good six point socket is your best chance of turning it off after the penetrating oil soak. As you run out of other options you always have the option of intense heat like an acetylene torch on the nut. It only takes a few seconds to get the nut white hot on one side and it will turn off easily. Cut a slot in a piece of sheet metal to slide around the nut and over the steering wheel to shield the wheel from the heat. You could use some gentle heat on the wheel to free it from the shaft if it is stuck. I know all this is easy in the shop and hard on the boat, so as a last resort I would cut the shaft below the steering wheel if you are sure you don't need to use it to allow you to get the wheel, shaft and nut to the shop to work on it. If the wheel is stuck on the shaft I would try a bearing splitter below the wheel and bolts down to it from a steering wheel puller or other other similar puller device to put mechanical force on the shaft to push it out. Again heat works wonders! And use the sheet metal shield again under the wheel. Good luck!
cabinetman1955
Veteran Member
After you replace the shaft and nut find a plastic or rubber plug , or find someone to turn a wood button to fit the center of the wheel.put a small amount of sealant around the plug to keep water out .
If its recessed into the wheel I would use a good drill bit and drill out the nut.
If its recessed into the wheel I would use a good drill bit and drill out the nut.
RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Mr. PM. The way I read the OP is he is replacing the helm. I am guessing it is a hydraulic helm (pump). I am also guessing the wheel is on the shaft coming OUT of said helm and he can't remove the helm through the back of the dashboard because the wheel is still attached. So THAT is why I suggested simply cutting the shaft.
Helm (pump) is junk. As I said, the wheel with attached rusted bits will be a lot easier to work on at a bench with a vice than on the boat. I might be completely incorrect in which case, the other advice offered by the learned TF panel will apply.
Mr. PM. The way I read the OP is he is replacing the helm. I am guessing it is a hydraulic helm (pump). I am also guessing the wheel is on the shaft coming OUT of said helm and he can't remove the helm through the back of the dashboard because the wheel is still attached. So THAT is why I suggested simply cutting the shaft.
Helm (pump) is junk. As I said, the wheel with attached rusted bits will be a lot easier to work on at a bench with a vice than on the boat. I might be completely incorrect in which case, the other advice offered by the learned TF panel will apply.
