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Old 09-17-2018, 06:32 PM   #21
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Had a similar problem caused by a faulty fresh-water valve for the toilet. Fortunately, it eventually corrected itself.
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Old 09-17-2018, 07:21 PM   #22
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Greetings,
Mr. HW. Not until the fall (Oct./Nov) although I don't think I'd be much help other than moral support...


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Old 09-17-2018, 09:04 PM   #23
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Folks, seldom do I write this much about so little. If you will indulge me this ONE time event. Get a cup of coffee and get comfortable.
I consider the FW water pumps, accumulator and compartment fans as expendable items.
If you determine the the pump on the fresh water pump is bad due to an internal leakage or a pressure switch, replace the whole thing. First you have to trouble shoot the system to determine what part of the FW system is bad. Ya'll are nit picking over basically 'nothing'. Now, if you/we are discussing this as an "exercise", discuss away. In this case we have the luxury to discuss the possibilities. If you are on cruise and have this problem, you can live with it, fine. You can say, "I will have the pump parts to repair the pump." Do you have a spare motor too? I expect you to reach into your parts locker, find the brand new FW pump and motor, spend an hour replacing the entire unit. Historically, some folks install a second installed pump. They change the valve line up, flip a switch and presto, they are on a new pump in a matter of minutes. There was one guy, in another thread, who admitted, he had a FW water pump failure and no spare. He could not, according to him, get the FW out of the tank. I can only guess he didn't have a fresh water tank drain or didn't know he had a drain. I have a drain with a valve. Think how your guests, wife or 'special someone' would react to a FW pump failure. He could not get the FW to flush the crapper. Get a second FW pump. Change it over and be done with it. Save the other pump if you wish, maybe even disassemble it. You get back to port, call the company, order all the internal pump parts if that makes you happy. Spend all the time in the world rebuilding the dead pump and pressure switch if that fulfills your dreams. Me? That is not one of my dreams. Redundancy for pumps and compartment fans and a bunch of other things makes for a happy cruise. I brought my Nordhavn down from Long Island to Miami with 2 adjustable wrenches, 4 screw driver, channel locks plus one or two other tools, never using any of them. All of us want each and every cruise to be comfortable. We do not want to spend our time in the holy-place during the cruise except to check the oil level and coolant level. We cannot plan for every possible failure but we can plan for the common failures. We all carry impellers and ideally some spare belts for the generator and main engine. If you dont have belts and impellers buy them and at least plan on how to replace them. Toss in spare radiator caps, spare alternators too. You carry spare oil I hope. Maybe not enough for an oil change but maybe a couple of quart cans or a gallon so you can add to the oil, if necessary. So the same with the anti-freeze. We all carry multiple fuel filters and filters for the water-maker. For those of us with one engine, we carry a couple of towing service insurance companies.
Now, I shall shut up and watch how the nit-picking, trouble shooting progresses.
Let us not worry about the small chit. Keep the 'down-time' down and enjoy the cruise.
One other thing, carry some extra common sense in the spare parts locker too.
We worry about each other and will even share our spare parts if we are cruising together.
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Old 09-17-2018, 11:17 PM   #24
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My water pump keeps kicking on every 20 minutes or so for about 3 seconds.

The manual states this indicates a leak. There's not much to check. The forward and aft shower's. The bathroom sink and shower. The water heater. I don't see anything. I live in the Fort Lauderdale area and have been very disappointed whenever I have needed work done (Besides Wards Electric). Does anybody know somebody good in the area?


Mine did that also and finally determined it was not a leak, it was the ice maker cycling and filling up. Once the ice bin was full, it stopped. Probably unique to me but worth checking if you have an ice maker.
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Old 09-24-2018, 12:33 PM   #25
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I had the same thing happen to me about 6 months ago. It turned out it was a leaking hose where the clamp was....very very small lead...only a few drops or so at a time. I would go around and check all of your clamps and change any that need changing...good luck
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Old 09-24-2018, 01:34 PM   #26
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Do you have an ice maker? If so, try turning it off. If your pump stops cycling, then you know...

Mine cycles on a similar cycle until it's full of ice.
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Old 09-24-2018, 01:46 PM   #27
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Hunt down the accumulator, try bleeding from the tire valve stem. If you immediately get water and no air, the accumulator has failed. Replace the accumulator If you get air, a few strokes with a hand pump to replace the pressure you bled off. Onward in your trouble shooting.
You can also put your hand on the side and feel the temp change. The water will be cooler than ambient usually. If you feel the same all the way up, chances are good you'll get water out of the valve stem since the bladder is flat.
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Old 09-24-2018, 03:37 PM   #28
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I had the same problem when I got my MS 400. As per a previous post, I checked the tire pressure valve and got water out: bladder was shot. Changed it out and the problem was fixed.
If that isn't the problem, I think like the 400, the 390 has a water manifold. Try turning off all the lines at the manifold to see if the problem stops. If it does, you have a small leak somewhere down line. If it doesn't it is between the tank and the manifold, most likely the pump. Also, make sure it isn't the outside "RV" water connection.
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Old 09-25-2018, 10:27 PM   #29
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Check all of your internal plumbing for slow leaks, particularly where there may be joints between sections or on the back side of faucets. You can probably spot any "wet spots" in the bilge if you don't normally expect water to be there.

I had cycling water pump caused by a slow leak that I chased for three months before I found it. One of the previous owners had installed a small "repair" section of potable water-grade tubing inline with the factory PVC piping. The section was under my removable bilge cover sections and practically right on top of the main bilge pump. I realized that it must be a leak when I would periodically hear the bilge pump cycling at the dock (I use the boat as my city "boatpartment" three nights/week). I finally found the drip, tightened the loose clamp which had caused the problem in the first place, and problem solved. I'm gradually replacing all clamps on the fourty-two year-old Grand Banks 42 which are intended to keep water out or keep water in, and double clamping nearly everything with solid-band SS clamps.
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Old 09-26-2018, 01:58 PM   #30
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Water Pump Issue

I had the exact same issue. It was a Jabsco variable speed pump that was the issue. I replaced it with another pump and have no issues.
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Old 09-30-2018, 09:30 PM   #31
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You have a manifold on the forward bulkhead located in the compartment below the lower station. Shut off the lever on the inlet to the manifold. if the cycling stops the problem is a leak downstream of the manifold. If the cycling does not stop its the pump or the accumulator.
As far as your impeller is concerned, I have a single Yanmar 370 on my 2003 Mainship 390. If that is your engine its best to remove the pump and change the impeller on your workbench. You will need a ratchet wrench (as opposed to a socket wrench) to remove the pump. I'm not on the boat right now so i'm not sure of the size (12 mm comes to mind).
For oil changes, My 390 came with an oil exchange system and I expect your does also.
If it does, oil changes are simple. Your oil exchanger has a 3 position lever and a toggle switch. One position does your engine and one does your generator. If you have twins, the third position doe your second engine. If you have a Yanmar the horizontally mounted filter can be messy. Shut the engine down and wait a while for the filter to drain. Drill a small hole in the top rear of the filter to facilitate draining, then slide a trash bag as best you can between the filter and the top of the engine. If you have Cummins or Cat, I can't help.
Good luck
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Old 04-08-2019, 07:07 PM   #32
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My boat is docked behind a private residence in Lauderdale Isles. I have a bilge pump that doesn't get all the water out. We plan on going to the Bahamas in January for 6 months or so, so I'm looking for someone to show me how to change impellers, do oil changes and change filters. Only had the boat since July. Whenever i have had someone to "fix" something they spend hours without rectifying the issue.
Paul, maybe I never answered this.....

Call, Atlantic Marine Power in Ft Lauderdale.
Have them change out the impellers, change the oil and filters, including the fuel filter.
Hang over their shoulder, ask questions and importantly, get part numbers.
Some folks keep the "old but good" impellers as back ups.
My recommendation, even if you keep the old impellers buy at least one impeller for each engine. Oil filters, buy at least one spare for each engine. I dont keep a large quantity of oil on board.
Oil can be found. Just know the W rating.
Some folks keep spare fuel pumps on board. I guess I have been fortunate.
Fuel filters? That depends upon your luck. I keep 4 of each type of fuel filters on board.
Keep a length of each diameter of hose on board and hose clamps, back up fresh water pump. Ah and a spare alternator with pulley installed. Spare belts, fuses and and. I think you get the drift. Various tools and a multi-meter, crimps and crimping tool Finally, if you are venturing into the great unknown, a membership in both tow boat organization.

Try not to overload yourself with parts.
Others will no doubt chime in.
Hope that helps.
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Old 04-08-2019, 09:54 PM   #33
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390 leak

Before you do too many tests check the fore and aft washdown faucets. A whack on the faucet will delay the need for immediate repairs.
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Old 04-08-2019, 11:13 PM   #34
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Before you do too many tests check the fore and aft washdown faucets. A whack on the faucet will delay the need for immediate repairs.
And the question is, How big of hammer?
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Old 04-09-2019, 04:13 AM   #35
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390 water

Try your hand first. The O rings go bad after a year or so.
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Old 04-09-2019, 06:10 AM   #36
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'no field workers that are worth the extortion of $100+/hr rates charged"

The Auto, RV and boat industries have the same labor problem.

Anyone skilled enough to fix all the different systems wants $40 an hour , not the $20 a yard might pay.

The yard has to pay for 35 or 40 hours a week, every! week so most of these bright folks eventually wander off to auto or truck shops that have the ability to sked the work and keep the tech busy.

Way back boatyards would build boats on spec , to keep their crews intact in the slow season.
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:13 AM   #37
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Greetings,
Mr. FF. "... wants $40 an hour..." HAH! I'd gladly pay double+ that for competence.
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:50 AM   #38
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Greetings,
Mr. FF. "... wants $40 an hour..." HAH! I'd gladly pay double+ that for competence.
Where are you folks finding this inexpensive labor?
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Old 04-09-2019, 08:21 AM   #39
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We cut our pump on and off when we need pressure water when cruising. Lesson learned from having all the fresh water run out from someone not shutting a faucett or shower all the way off a couple of times
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Old 04-09-2019, 08:27 AM   #40
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We cut our pump on and off when we need pressure water when cruising. Lesson learned from having all the fresh water run out from someone not shutting a faucett or shower all the way off a couple of times
Always it is either "someone" or "not me."
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