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09-26-2023, 05:23 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
City: pawtucket
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 173
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Warm up 120HP lehman
Hello all. What is the average full warm up time on a 120 lehman. Ambient temp is about 70.
Now I'm not asking to the second. More like 8-10 minutes or about 15min or 5??
Also, on the velvet drive transmissions,, checking the fluid. Do you check that cold or warm? Engine running or off? I just did a completes service to it,,, fluid, cooler lines, and cooler. About a 1.5 quarts came out. I put in 1.75 to start. I figured the cooler and brand new lines (oversized per AD) being dry id add a touch more.
Thanks
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09-26-2023, 05:37 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 20,557
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Warm up time depends on how the engine is loaded. If you idle it the engine will take a very long time to warm up. If you load it maybe only minutes.
__________________
Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you aren’t one, there is no explanation possible.
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09-26-2023, 06:11 PM
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#3
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 27,697
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Zero warm up time unless you are the rare one that is out of slip and in a high speed area and use more than 2000 rpm in just a few minutes.
Usually just high idling under load and gradual increase in speed till the channel is fine.
If at anchor, high idling out of the anchorage is good enough.
This all assumes a trawler type boat where you are just using a fraction of max power even when cruising.
Again, if your Lehman is in a higher speed boat and you get on the engine at cruise speed, then just wait till up to 180 degrees engine coolant or so before significantly increasing RPM.
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09-26-2023, 06:15 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
City: pawtucket
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld
Zero warm up time unless you are the rare one that is out of slip and in a high speed area and use more than 2000 rpm in just a few minutes.
Usually just high idling under load and gradual increase in speed till the channel is fine.
If at anchor, high idling out of the anchorage is good enough.
This all assumes a trawler type boat where you are just using a fraction of max power even when cruising.
Again, if your Lehman is in a higher speed boat and you get on the engine at cruise speed, then just wait till up to 180 degrees engine coolant or so before significantly increasing RPM.
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Good to know. Any idea on the gear fluid level check? It's a velvet drive. It does have a distinct to check level.
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09-26-2023, 06:19 PM
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#5
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Valued Technical Contributor
City: Litchfield, Ct
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 6,692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave
Warm up time depends on how the engine is loaded. If you idle it the engine will take a very long time to warm up. If you load it maybe only minutes.
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On my Yanmar 370, a similar displacement engine, it would take 15-20 minutes for the engine temp to get to 180 at idle in neutral, but 5 minutes under load at 1,300-1,500 rpm.
I recall Tony Athens words of wisdom on this topic. He said, roughly speaking, start the engine and remove the dock lines and back out of the slip all without stopping. Then run it at a fast idle in gear until it hits normal temps. Then go for it!
David
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09-26-2023, 06:32 PM
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#6
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 27,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eli27
Good to know. Any idea on the gear fluid level check? It's a velvet drive. It does have a distinct to check level.
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Pretty sure they manual I had said right after shutdown....as quick as possible do the check.... not sure why, may have something to do with drain back from the oil cooler.
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09-26-2023, 07:32 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
City: Toronto
Vessel Name: Bermuda Belle
Vessel Model: Marine Trader 36 Sedan
Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 322
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I start my engine and let it idle while I do my pre-departure checklist. It usually takes me about 5 minutes. I don't engage the drive until the engine temperature opens the thermostat and the engine temperature gage starts to move. Then its a slow idle as we exit the marina (or anchorage; there are usually other boats anchored around us and we respect the other boaters right to no-wake). By the time we are clear the engine temp is up and we can go to cruise RPM
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09-26-2023, 08:07 PM
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#8
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Guru
City: Gulf Islands, BC Canada
Vessel Name: Sea Sanctuary
Vessel Model: Bayliner 4588
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 4,605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld
Pretty sure they manual I had said right after shutdown....as quick as possible do the check.... not sure why, may have something to do with drain back from the oil cooler.
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I agree, manual says at operating temp too.
Hot oil expands and after shut off drains back from cooler. Checking like this avoids overfill.
__________________
SteveK
You only need one working engine. That is why I have two.
Sea Sanctuary-new to me 1992 Bayliner 4588
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09-27-2023, 06:52 AM
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#9
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Guru
City: Kilmarnock VA
Vessel Name: Wandering Star
Vessel Model: PSN40
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,340
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After figuring out the correct level of oil after shutdown, I made a reference of the velvet drive oil level on the stick when it's cold, which always indicates overfilled when the oil has drained down. That way, I can check it, while making all of the other routine fluid checks , in the morning when it's not hot an oven in the engine room.
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-Shawn-
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09-27-2023, 08:10 AM
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#10
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Guru
City: Rochester, NY
Vessel Name: Hour Glass
Vessel Model: Chris Craft 381 Catalina
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 7,172
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I've also noted the normal cold level on my Velvet Drives after confirming the level is correct by the recommended method (check hot and as fast as you can after engine shutdown). The cold level reading is always consistent in my experience, so once you know it's correct, then you're fine to check them cold.
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09-27-2023, 08:54 AM
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#11
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Guru
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,978
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I untie and unhook everything at the dock except one line. Then I start the engine and get out of the slip and into the river at about 7 to 800 rpm to head out of the channel.
Once the engine reaches 140 F I can increase the rpm to whaever is desired. 140 F is warm enough.
I do this with my diesel truck as well.
__________________
Jay Leonard
Ex boats: 1983 40 Albin trunk cabin, 1978 Mainship 34 Model 1
New Port Richey, Fl
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09-27-2023, 09:06 AM
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#12
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Guru
City: Oconto, WI
Vessel Name: Best Alternative
Vessel Model: 36 Albin Aft Cabin
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,097
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I don't think my F.L. needs it but I give it about 4 or 5 minutes while I coil the power cord, loosen dock lines and check water output from the engine.
pete
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09-27-2023, 09:34 AM
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#13
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Guru
City: Rochester, NY
Vessel Name: Hour Glass
Vessel Model: Chris Craft 381 Catalina
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 7,172
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For pre-departure warmup, unless it's really cold, generally with just about any boat engine, I pull the shore power, fire up the engine(s) and raise to high idle. Start removing dock lines. When I'm down to the final couple of lines, return engine(s) to idle, confirm a stable idle (and with my gassers I usually want to see the temp gauges starting to come off the pegs at this point), then drop the last lines and depart. Most boats are plenty warm for heavier load by the time you get out of a no wake zone, etc.
I've never understood the people who feel the need to let their engine(s) warm up for 10+ minutes before leaving the dock. I see it some with powerboaters (want to see full temp before departing), but I see it quite a bit with some sailors (not all of them of course) where they crank up the engine as soon as they think about departing, then spend 15+ minutes removing sail covers, coiling shore power cords, etc. before actually leaving.
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09-27-2023, 11:39 AM
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#14
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 27,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boomerang
After figuring out the correct level of oil after shutdown, I made a reference of the velvet drive oil level on the stick when it's cold, which always indicates overfilled when the oil has drained down. That way, I can check it, while making all of the other routine fluid checks , in the morning when it's not hot an oven in the engine room.
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I usually did the same...but I just kept the high level in the back of my head. Think it was about a 1/4 inch higher than the top mark.
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09-27-2023, 12:59 PM
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#15
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,719
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Start at 900rpm and increase in steps as you go toward your destination. Should take at least 15 minutes before you go to cruise rpm.
Cool down about 5 minutes at idle.
Adjust idle rpm to be just high enough that the engine will not ever quit when you back out of your slip and go through neutral to fwd gear. And just high enough for good smoothness that never inclines you to adjust it lower. Ideally that would be running smooth. Try to think of what will be best for the engine. Rough chuggy running is almost certainly not best for the engine. Especially for gears .. camshaft and other gear related moving parts. Gears could “clatter” back and forth .. so to speak.
Most skippers set idle too low for a tug boat like sound. That’s not to benefit the engine or other mechanicals. Low idle may also cause sooty injectors. I don’t really know about that tho.
When I was learning how to drive 18 wheel trucks my guide man told me to just let it “low idle” and “chug” (not smooth at all). Always wondered about that. It may be linked to “run at a speed that warms slowly” (frequently commercial situations don’t allow warm up). Whatever you do, do what’s best for the engine. And an engine rep. for your brand of engine should produce good practice. Not so much the mechanic at hand.
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Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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09-27-2023, 01:09 PM
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#16
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,719
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rslifkin wrote:
“where they crank up the engine as soon as they think about departing, then spend 15+ minutes removing sail covers, coiling shore power cords, etc. before actually leaving.”
IMO they probably just don’t realize how much time they take .. time flies when you’re busy. And their engine is not as important as on a powerboat. Most of us power boaters are at least somewhat mechanical to serious gearheads.
__________________
Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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09-27-2023, 01:15 PM
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#17
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Guru
City: Rochester, NY
Vessel Name: Hour Glass
Vessel Model: Chris Craft 381 Catalina
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 7,172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad Willy
rslifkin wrote:
“where they crank up the engine as soon as they think about departing, then spend 15+ minutes removing sail covers, coiling shore power cords, etc. before actually leaving.”
IMO they probably just don’t realize how much time they take .. time flies when you’re busy. And their engine is not as important as on a powerboat. Most of us power boaters are at least somewhat mechanical to serious gearheads.
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That's quite possible. I've always figured it comes from the typical sailor not trusting their engine, so they figure the longer it's running, the better chance it'll stay running. Of course, that distrust leads to reduced engine use and also poor maintenance (because they don't want to deal with the thing), so then it becomes less reliable and they trust it less, etc.
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09-27-2023, 01:17 PM
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#18
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Guru


City: Port Townsend, WA
Vessel Name: Traveler
Vessel Model: Cheoy Lee 46 LRC
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,536
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I've always started our FL120s and idled them at 900rpm while we check flow, pull the power cord, and untie the lines. Probably around 5 mins or so (unless our neighbors are there and we get to talking...). Then down to 700 for departing the slip. A minute or so later, once in the bay, back up to 900 for a couple mins while my wife pulls the fenders and coils the lines. Then up to 1300 to steam out of the bay for a couple mins, then to 1420 for our "cruising speed" the rest of the way. By that time, the operating temps are normal.
Those rpms we use are also the smoothest, least vibrating rpms. It's interesting, as 700-900 or so is smooth, but 950-1250 causes slight vibration. Under 600 just doesn't sound/feel smooth, either. 1300 and up is super smooth. All that is while in gear, and it's not so much the physical vibration which we don't like, it's the little buzzing noises of things vibrating that crop up all over the boat that bugs us!
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09-27-2023, 01:18 PM
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#19
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Guru
City: Gulf Islands, BC Canada
Vessel Name: Sea Sanctuary
Vessel Model: Bayliner 4588
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 4,605
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Warm up, no, not on purpose. After storing power line and removing all but two dock lines which are looped back to boat I start the engine. When at helm, the crew releases dock lines and away we go. RPM becomes high idle after leaving the fairway. And we are off. At some point the engine comes to operating temp.
__________________
SteveK
You only need one working engine. That is why I have two.
Sea Sanctuary-new to me 1992 Bayliner 4588
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09-27-2023, 01:48 PM
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#20
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Guru
City: Stockton
Vessel Name: Dream Catcher
Vessel Model: 1979 Island Gypsy 44 Flush Aft Deck
Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 705
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My engines idle smooth cold at 750 so that's what I set for after starting. Warm they are smooth at 650 which is minimum speed. Never had a problem with putting in gear at any temperature.
I don't have a "warm up" routine either. Start, set speed at 750, check for water, undo the lines and power and back out, turn and head down the river. By the time I get out of the no wake zone it's been 15 minutes easy.
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