vhf antenna question

[seattleboatguy]

Is there an easy way to cut out the u/v ravaged coax, or should I replace the whole antenna and the coax?

[Comodave]

Personally I would replace it. It is the primary safety resource on your boat so I want a reliable antenna. I would also replace the plastic mount with a stainless steel mount.

[twistedtree]

I would just replace it. If the cable is that bad, I would be concerned about the rest of the antenna too. And even if you could cut and install a connector, it will be exposed to the elements. Antennas aren't too expensive, so I would just replace the whole darn thing.

[kapnd]

Since you’re obviously going to have to replace, why not upgrade to a better antenna?
Google Gam antennas, they’re the commercial boat standard in these parts, and performance is clearly superior to standard fiberglass masts.
Maybe you could treat the cable with some uv resistant coating or wrap, yours certainly looks to have taken a beating!

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Originally Posted by Comodave

Personally I would replace it. It is the primary safety resource on your boat so I want a reliable antenna. I would also replace the plastic mount with a stainless steel mount.

100%

Cheap Insurance

[mystery]

Time for a new antenna and coax, may be even worth considering a new VHF depending what you have.

[Sailor of Fortune]

Originally Posted by kapnd

Since you’re obviously going to have to replace, why not upgrade to a better antenna?
Google Gam antennas, they’re the commercial boat standard in these parts, and performance is clearly superior to standard fiberglass masts.
Maybe you could treat the cable with some uv resistant coating or wrap, yours certainly looks to have taken a beating!

I have never heard of GAM antennas before. Which model do you use?

[BruceK]

A new one. Not a fan of extra drill holes Swiss cheese style,so suggest reusing the base unless you find the same hole pattern on a new one.

[High Wire]

Yep they are both toast.

[Xsbank]

New. That is a standard mount so replacing it with a stainless version is easy. The old one looks serviceable though, might not be necessary. If you can, replace the cable with the large diameter mil spec stuff, your reception will improve a lot, especially if the cable has a long run. Just did that on two of my antennae and the difference is like night and day: "5 X 5."

[C lectric]

Maybe good for a pennant holder. But get a new one.
I did the pennant thing with my old one and it works well at that.
My radio liked it too, uh the new one, not the pennant holder.

[denverd0n]

Whenever possible, I prefer antennas that do NOT have an attached pigtail. Then you don't run into this problem.

[diver dave]

Originally Posted by denverd0n

Whenever possible, I prefer antennas that do NOT have an attached pigtail. Then you don't run into this problem.

That is certainly the case for most professional, fixed antennas and a few marine mobile antennas. However, and it is a big however, untrained folks do a notoriously bad job at connector installs. Further, when you put that connector in harms way (sea spray), I would predict the reliability will tumble. And, this is from a guy that has two marine antennas on my current boat, each with a UHF base connector!

To the OP situation, there should be a consideration of the internals of that antenna. They do succumb to conductor fatigue and internal corrosion. Plus, these antennas are virtually non-inspect-able. All told, it all should be replaced. Mount, antenna, cable.

[kapnd]

Originally Posted by Sailor of Fortune

I have never heard of GAM antennas before. Which model do you use?

Mine is a tg3, which is a little pricey as compared to WM standard, but I often operate in fringe areas, and need every ounce of performance available.
They offer other lower priced options, that are great antennas, many of which offer ais capabilities too, if you need that.
Their website spells it all out for you.

[LaBomba]

I think I have had to replace the antenna for the same reason on every boat I have ever owned and that's been a bunch. Such a drag when the cable is done but the rest of the antenna seems in perfect shape but nevertheless I have always replaced the whole thing. Feel your pain but as has been said they are not that expensive, unless you are paying in Canadian $$

[Xsbank]

Read the specs and use them to decide, not looks.

Also, how high will you mount it? You need those numbers for the correct gain and wavelength.

[clyde]

hallo seattle guy,,,i went thru several shitty vhf antennas, with the built in coax, got tired of the sun eating the coax, so went to the MORAD MARINE VHF marine set up, their made in seattle, factory is just west of leary way in ballard! 99% of all commercial fishing boats use them! they have everything for them to work on any boat! and they work WONDERFUL!! they`re also available at fisheries supply, gut you need to know what to buy! i use RG8X coax, use a plastic wire cover, with the split onening on one side...protects the coax from the sun! anything more, garbge7@wavecable.com, clyde...former east greelake guy, now port orchard guy!

[diver dave]

the FL guys tend to like Digital antennas, tested and office in Ft Lauderdale. Maybe, location does matter!

[Jay O]

Hi, damaged coax will leak transmit signal. The outer shield is actually a ground.
An optimal radio setup (radio at a given frequency, coax, and antenna) should have a standing wave ratio of 1:1. This rarely occurs. Anything greater than 1:1 the transmit signal reflects back into the radio setup. Another issue is the type of coax used. The longer the coax, the greater the transmit signal loss. At higher frequencies, this is not as much of an issue. However, if you are transmitting 25 watts, if your radio setup is not optimal, your output at the antenna will be less. VHF is essentially line of site transmission. Your output signal does not hit the atmosphere run along it then randomly come down (that's why you hear long distance am stations at night) So getting the optimal radio setup is important. You need to be skilled to properly solder a PL 259 connector. It takes enough heat for the solder to melt, but not melt the inner solid wire core, which is encapsulated in plastic.