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01-02-2020, 11:03 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
City: Westport
Vessel Name: L'Eau Vive
Vessel Model: Bayliner
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 107
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Varnish vs Teak Oil for exterior caprails
Captains,
Happy New Year to all...
We've sanded down our caprails and have to decide whether to apply 4 coats of VARNISH (ala the Captain Sipe's prior posting), or go with TEAK OIL (perhaps from the Star Brite line which seems readily accessibly in every marine chandlery).
Our ship will be in the tropics for the next few years. We don't really care weather it's a piano grade mirror finish or flat. Our goal is to reduce the long term maintenance and costs.
Any feedback would be much appreciated...
~Lucky Chucky
m.v. Ho'okipa
S4326
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01-02-2020, 11:26 AM
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#2
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Guru
City: Narragansett Bay
Vessel Model: Grand Banks 36 Classic #715
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,857
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Let it go gray. Sand and finish when you return home from the tropics.
__________________
Carl
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01-02-2020, 11:56 AM
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#3
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21,187
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I used Semco sealer on our teak decks. So far I like it. Very easy to apply..
__________________
Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you aren’t one, there is no explanation possible.
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01-02-2020, 12:18 PM
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#4
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Guru
City: Rochester, NY
Vessel Name: Hour Glass
Vessel Model: Chris Craft 381 Catalina
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 7,553
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Varnish or polyurethane would be my pick. My exterior teak done in Cetol goes a few years between needing any attention. When it was oiled, it was an every 2 months or so chore to re-oil it. Interior teak (except floors) can stay oiled, as it's pretty low maintenance when it's out of the weather.
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01-02-2020, 12:22 PM
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#5
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Guru
City: Narragansett Bay
Vessel Model: Grand Banks 36 Classic #715
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave
I used Semco sealer on our teak decks. So far I like it. Very easy to apply..
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Did you sand 1st?
__________________
Carl
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01-02-2020, 12:32 PM
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#6
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Guru
City: Kenai, Alaska
Vessel Name: Melanie Rose
Vessel Model: 1999 Willard PH
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,236
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Are you going to walk on it or is it just a handrail? Mine is low and I walk on it, so it's gone gray as a non slip finish. If it were a hand rail and I didn't walk on it I would probably varnish it. All of my interior teak is oiled, but the oil doesn't hold up well in sun and weather IMO
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01-02-2020, 03:29 PM
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#7
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Guru
City: Quebec
Vessel Name: Bleuvet
Vessel Model: Custom Built
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 4,375
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There is nothing like teak oil. It is just boiled linseed oil, tung oil, mineral oil or a mix of the 3 marketed as teak oil to make it fancy and attractive (and more expensive).
L
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01-02-2020, 05:00 PM
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#8
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,743
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I’ve done a lot of both.
I’ve always mixed my own “teak” oil.
Used a lot of raw linseed oil, some boiled, turpentine and very small amounts of Tea Tree Oil. It’s an anti-mildew additive. Expensive.
For you at this time I’d (looks like your’e in Cal.) use lots of teak oil mixed yourself. Start and apply 7-8 coats of raw LO and turp. Mostly turp. Only 10-15% LO at this time. If you have anti-mildew additive add that. Slop on as much as you can w a brush. Add more oil w each coat up to around 6-7 coats. You can use throw away brushes and pick out the brush “hairs” as you go. You can use the brush until it starts to harden. It’s slightly better to use a better brush but you need to clean w turp after each coat.
When the wood won’t take anymore oil/terp wipe off the excess. Don’t use a paper towel.
It would be good to let it stand for a day or two (hopefully one w sun and some warmth. Now switch to boiled LO (or Tung oil) and apply more LO. Apply and wipe. The last coat or two one can add some Japan Drier (as directed) to the mix.
Hopefully you can stop there and also hopefully be happy w it. I was in Alaska and didn’t use any boiled LO and no Japan Drier. After I was sorta doe w it we could sit on the cap rail but when standing up it would feel slightly like our butt had stuck to the cap-rail. It never did nor was there any oil residue on our pants. So it worked well in very wet SE Alaska. I recoated about every 3-5 weeks.
Now for your California oil job you should have some UV additive/protectant in the oil. With just oil I don’t know how much or even if any UV protectant is needed. I never did use any and don’t think it’s needed. I’m hoping someone will offer up an opinion.
So HaHa I suggest you may use both.
__________________
Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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01-02-2020, 05:06 PM
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#9
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Guru
City: Brookline, NH
Vessel Name: Shalloway
Vessel Model: Defever 44, twin Perkins
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky Chucky
Captains,
Happy New Year to all...
We've sanded down our caprails and have to decide whether to apply 4 coats of VARNISH (ala the Captain Sipe's prior posting), or go with TEAK OIL (perhaps from the Star Brite line which seems readily accessibly in every marine chandlery).
Our ship will be in the tropics for the next few years. We don't really care weather it's a piano grade mirror finish or flat. Our goal is to reduce the long term maintenance and costs.
Any feedback would be much appreciated...
~Lucky Chucky
m.v. Ho'okipa
S4326
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I have LOTS of exterior teak on my boat and I prefer the look of brightly varnished teak. BUT, In my opinion, if its reduced maintenance that you're looking for AND you're going to be in the tropics, then teak oil is the way to go. You'll need a few coats to start, but its quick and easy to apply. (much faster and easier to apply than varnish) After that, a coat maybe every 4 months should keep it looking good. I'm talking about *standard* teak oil, not Cetol or anything other than ordinary "teak oil". It will have a fairly dull finish and won't (can't) peel.
Ken
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01-02-2020, 05:13 PM
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#10
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,682
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The downside of letting it go gray/no finish is you will loose the soft grain on the wood. After a few years in the tropics and then trying to sand it smooth to take a finish, it may be impossible without removing some serious wood. Use some Cetol or equivalent and once a year, a light sand, a couple of coats and be done with it. When you get back to the states or get ready to sell the boat, you’ll be glad you did.
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01-02-2020, 06:18 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
City: Westport
Vessel Name: L'Eau Vive
Vessel Model: Bayliner
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 107
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Thank you ALL for the feedback!!!
We chickened out and went back to what we know...Interlux Schooner 96.
I know we should have probable used Awlgrip - Alwood or Epifanes, but we had the Interlux in stock and on board.
Thank you!!!
~Lucky Chucky
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01-02-2020, 06:39 PM
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#12
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Guru
City: Aventura FL
Vessel Name: Kinja
Vessel Model: American Tug 34 #116 2008
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 10,595
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I let the rail cap on my N46 go gray. I was teak-shamed by those who lived ashore. LOL Had it professionally refinished.
__________________
Two days out the hospital after a week in the hospital because of a significant heart attack.
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01-02-2020, 07:53 PM
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#13
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,743
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Lucky Chucky,
Schooner 96 is a very good product.
Something about varnish is that they seem the same but aren’t. There’s “high oil” varnish that is softer and more flexible. I prefer that as it is far less prone to crack at the joints and let water in that works it’s way under the varnish, turns black and goes south from there. BUT the harder varnish is much less prone to “scratch” or crack. So you’d want to varnish steps w the harder varnish and high oil varnish on cap rails. I’ve used a soft varnish for everything and been un-inclined to use anything else. all the big manufacturers offer a top quality product. But there’s nothing super special about any one brand. IMO
__________________
Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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01-02-2020, 08:04 PM
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#14
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Guru
City: Sydney
Vessel Name: Sojourn
Vessel Model: Integrity 386
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 13,329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M
The downside of letting it go gray/no finish is you will loose the soft grain on the wood. After a few years in the tropics and then trying to sand it smooth to take a finish, it may be impossible without removing some serious wood. Use some Cetol or equivalent and once a year, a light sand, a couple of coats and be done with it. When you get back to the states or get ready to sell the boat, you’ll be glad you did.
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My boat had deep grooved teak cappings fwd from being left with no finish. I sanded to an extent but not fully smooth in exposed areas, it would have removed too much wood. Instead of varnish or Cetol needing taking back after failure, I went with Deks Olje#1(oil) and#2( gloss,polyurethane I think), which degrades away leaving the oil saturated wood, easily re-oiled#1, and refinished with #2. In 10 years I`ve not had to go back to bare wood, which was my pet peeve. Will never look as good as a varnish but it`s good enough,and the wood is not getting grooved or sanded away.
__________________
BruceK
2005 Integrity 386 "Sojourn"
Sydney Australia
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01-02-2020, 09:53 PM
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#15
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Guru
City: Sarasota,FL/Thomasville,GA
Vessel Name: Steppin Stone IV
Vessel Model: Marine Trader Kelly Trawler 46
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M
The downside of letting it go gray/no finish is you will loose the soft grain on the wood. After a few years in the tropics and then trying to sand it smooth to take a finish, it may be impossible without removing some serious wood. Use some Cetol or equivalent and once a year, a light sand, a couple of coats and be done with it. When you get back to the states or get ready to sell the boat, you’ll be glad you did.
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Agree with you inletting it go grey. I used Cetol for years but last few years have been mixing my own oils still not perfect but like the UV protection I can add to it
__________________
Alan
Skype roatan63
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01-02-2020, 09:57 PM
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#16
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Guru
City: Quebec
Vessel Name: Bleuvet
Vessel Model: Custom Built
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 4,375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siestakey
Agree with you inletting it go grey. I used Cetol for years but last few years have been mixing my own oils still not perfect but like the UV protection I can add to it
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What UV protection do you get from oil?
L
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01-02-2020, 10:25 PM
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#17
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Guru
City: Sarasota,FL/Thomasville,GA
Vessel Name: Steppin Stone IV
Vessel Model: Marine Trader Kelly Trawler 46
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lou_tribal
What UV protection do you get from oil?
L
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I have been experimenting with Saicos adding to my blends amazing product but to to say I have it perfected would be stretch prior to that I tried adding in Treatex with my old blend
__________________
Alan
Skype roatan63
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01-02-2020, 10:38 PM
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#18
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Guru
City: Trenton
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,522
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For the tropics you should varnish teak not for looks but until the grain is filled. Then coat with white paint. The paint will handle the harsh sunny conditions better than anything else. When you want to refinish back to bright, the teak will be protected from the paint by the varnish. It will be easy to remove and start the varnish regimen from there.
__________________
Al Johnson
34' Marine Trader
"Angelina"
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01-02-2020, 10:44 PM
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#19
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Guru
City: Sarasota,FL/Thomasville,GA
Vessel Name: Steppin Stone IV
Vessel Model: Marine Trader Kelly Trawler 46
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alormaria
For the tropics you should varnish teak not for looks but until the grain is filled. Then coat with white paint. The paint will handle the harsh sunny conditions better than anything else. When you want to refinish back to bright, the teak will be protected from the paint by the varnish. It will be easy to remove and start the varnish regimen from there.
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Yikes!!!!!!!!
__________________
Alan
Skype roatan63
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01-02-2020, 10:50 PM
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#20
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Guru
City: Pahrump, NV
Vessel Name: Pairadice
Vessel Model: Sold Selene 47
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky Chucky
Thank you ALL for the feedback!!!
We chickened out and went back to what we know...Interlux Schooner 96.
I know we should have probable used Awlgrip - Alwood or Epifanes, but we had the Interlux in stock and on board.
Thank you!!!
~Lucky Chucky
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Hey you two!
We just had our cap rails done again while here in La Paz.
The cap rails base is Epifane and that lasted 4 years up in the PNW and over 50% of the time they were covered. Earlier this year we had a guy up in Portland repair the chips and then put 5 coats of Poly on. It looked great until about a month ago. The Poly was blushing and we started to notice small “spider” cracks. The poly struggled with the UV down here and we didn’t use the covers since it was done. Did a bit of research and the Poly we used had almost no UV protection.
The crew here in LA Paz, sanded it real good, started with 180 grit, then 220, finished with 300, probably lost 2-3 coats of the poly in the process.
4 coats of Epifanes and 2 final coats of High Gloss with UV protection, also Epifanes. Looks awesome and let it cure for 7 days, and am using the covers again.
Pretty sure that if we scuff and put one or two coats every year or so it will stay nice, just gotta remember to use the covers more often.
Anyway, we will be heading over to Mazatlan in a week or so and hope to hook up again. Save some Taco’s for us.
Cheers
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