Update on Russian Trawler#2

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It is very colorful :thumb::D Thank her for me/us.

I guess the deck plate keep the ballast from jumping up and down and shifting too much?

What's next?

Yes, the deck plates held it in place.

I have stripped the front cabin down to the steel walls. Anyone who uses regular styrofoam to insulate a boat deserves to have glitter spilled in their carpet. At least it wasn't glued in place.

The worst rust I have seen on the boat is on the ceiling. I thought maybe there was a leak, but it seems to be primarily from condensation. Should be able to start painting the walls tomorrow.

Hoping the rust-converter and paint will stop any further corrosion and proper insulation will manage condensation. There is a saying in Russian: Hope dies last.
 
" Suddenly reminded of the quote from Samuel Clemens, "The surest way to hear God laugh is to state your plans out loud" or words to that affect..."




Man plans , God laughs.
 
I was CEO of an IT company (hired, so no sweet exit). Now I am a VP at a company that has offices here and scattered all over Europe, but based in Ft Lauderdale. They want me to move there eventually, but my plan is to move around Europe on the boat for a year or so first. My job is not really location based. Need borders to open soon.

Anyway, cutting my teeth in the Baltic, especially between here and Finland, may change my plans significantly :)

Edit: Suddenly reminded of the quote from Samuel Clemens, "The surest way to hear God laugh is to state your plans out loud" or words to that affect...


Cool! It would be nice to have a job that didn't rely on a fixed physical location. Ours did, at least for some of the work, so we closed up the business, and are going to boat full time!:dance:
 
Love this thread. Meat & potatoes for dreamers and doers alike. Thrilled at what you’ve done with the boat so far. I think I’ll hang your bilge photo in my next art exhibit! Restoring heavy iron was once my business. For frame rails, axles, springs and moisture traps (even the bottom of doors), I never was without Ospho for converting rust and epoxy paint to cover.
 

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Love this thread. Meat & potatoes for dreamers and doers alike. Thrilled at what you’ve done with the boat so far. I think I’ll hang your bilge photo in my next art exhibit! Restoring heavy iron was once my business. For frame rails, axles, springs and moisture traps (even the bottom of doors), I never was without Ospho for converting rust and epoxy paint to cover.

For the OP, generic phosphoric acid will do the same job if Ospho isn't available. ;)
 
Hey guys,

Thanks for the tips! Regarding Ospho and other solutions, I am using a Russian product that turns the rust into zinc. Very unpleasant. I will take a pic of the bottle tomorrow when I am back on the boat. Taking a break today.

Here is what we are dealing with. This styrofoam gets EVERYWHERE. Will be glad its gone. White stuff on the steel walls is the rust converter at work:
 

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Cool! It would be nice to have a job that didn't rely on a fixed physical location. Ours did, at least for some of the work, so we closed up the business, and are going to boat full time!:dance:

That's great! Congratulations!
 
Wow, you're really stripping her down to NOTHING! Great job. I don't see any signs that there was really widespread corrosion. It looks really nice, but then I didn't see the "before" pics! Keep it coming . . .:thumb:


Oh, and a converter that turns the rust to zinc . . . . never heard of that
 
How do you deal w condensed water behind the foam?
 
How do you deal w condensed water behind the foam?

Hi Eric,

When the foam is in place, it doesn't seem to be much of an issue unless a gap develops between the foam and steel. It is a pretty dry boat, from what I experienced so far (except for that time it sunk). Most of the superficial rust was on the ceiling which would make sense as it was likely caused by the foam sagging away from the steel due to gravity. This is all a WAG, though.
 
For the ballast, I wonder if you could just pour in epoxy until it's flooded up to the top of the ballast? It would look really cool with all the painted colors.
 
Greetings,
Mr. (saint) tt. I would be hesitant to encapsulate anything within a steel hull. Trapping water comes immediately to mind and in the event of a leak, much greater difficulty in patching particularly IF the encapsulating material is flammable.


It WOULD look really cool though.
 
OK good. That makes perfect sense.
Hope you can get masks or respirators.
Sanding rust overhead sounds about as bad as it gets .. but not.
 
Tell me more about the engine. I know a lot about the Euro engines, but very little about the Russian ones. Heard through the 'vine that many are really bulletproof, but know little more than that.

And maybe some more engine pics!!
 
OK good. That makes perfect sense.
Hope you can get masks or respirators.
Sanding rust overhead sounds about as bad as it gets .. but not.

I can't say it's fun. Or clean
 

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Great Stuff!!

Thanks to you and RT Firefly for the tips! This is great and I will definitely use this. But when I said antirust I actually meant rust converter. It is a different thing, no?
You're doing a fine job!
We are all waiting to see the final result.
Cheers!
Kiwi Pierre
 
Agree with RT.

We had a 40’ steel ketch which we cruised for five years and stored on stands for 20 years. It had miscellaneous steel ballast cemented in from bow for about 2/3’s the LWL. When we bought her there were a few small external pinholes with rust stain at the ballast lines. Filled with epoxy and painted over. Over the years it became obvious that the holes were from interior corrosion as they walked down the ballast line.

Water from condensation and possibly the chain locker seeped into the cement. We had several welders look at the situation and all said that repairs would have been reasonable but removing the cemented ballast was too much work. Finally we scrapped the boat.
 
Tell me more about the engine. I know a lot about the Euro engines, but very little about the Russian ones. Heard through the 'vine that many are really bulletproof, but know little more than that.

And maybe some more engine pics!!

Will do! I will be moving to the engine room soon. We are still iced in, so not much I can do with the engine at the moment.
 
@DCDC, that's a great lesson. I'm sorry that you had to scrap her. :(
 
A bit of touch up left to do, but the forward cabin is ready for construction to begin. The ballast in here is less colorful because we found a brand of paint that can be applied down to -20 and dries in 15 minutes, but they only have black, white, rust color and grey. Anyway, now we are on to the main cabin.
 

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By the way, can anyone see the water (ice) line? Lol.
 
Just realized I forgot to post this after I said that I would:
 

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Wow! You're really going to town on the cleaning up!:thumb: Want to come back to the states for a little while and help me with MY bilges?!?:D
 
Pretty awe inspiring to me. Both you and your wife are to be commended for the scope of work you have taken on. I love to see old stuff brought back to life. Hard work, sometimes grindingly hard (sorry, word play intended).

Thanks for keeping us posted. I am really enjoying this rebuild.
 
Greetings,
Mr. (saint) tt. I would be hesitant to encapsulate anything within a steel hull. Trapping water comes immediately to mind and in the event of a leak, much greater difficulty in patching particularly IF the encapsulating material is flammable.


It WOULD look really cool though.


Ah, good point.
 
TheAtomicDog you've a heart like a lion, fair play to you.
In Ireland the equivalent expression to 'And what' is a raise of the eyebrows and 'So?'.
As RTF says if you can get cleaning vinegar at 10 or even 14% it will clean the rust and is much safer to use than Muriatic acid, he's also correct when he says it will, unless treated start to rust again very quickly.
Once its clean and if you can blow dry it with warm air, there's a product called Owatrol which I think originated in Sweden (So you may get it in Finland, its probably easier to go in and out since I did it in the 60's :angel: ) which is a great rust preventative to spray on immediately the metal is dry.
Your diesel generator would be fine in the engine room and the benefit would be a single fuel for engine and genny. I would be inclined to think about some sort of noise shield and mount it on Metalastik feet to reduce vibrations once its running.
You will know of course that you can dilute your diesel with 25% Paraffin to ease starting and running your diesels.
Good luck with your project and well done, treat yourself to a Stolichnaya !
p.s
 
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