Turning Off Your Diesel Engine

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menzies

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May 11, 2014
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USA
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SONAS
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Grand Alaskan 53
When we turn off our Luggers we first turn off the ignition switch and then push the engine kill button. Maybe there is a few seconds between them.

Today, when the mechanics were on board finishing up the annual service and were running the engines, they shut them down by simultaneously turning the ignition off while pressing the engine kill button.

I asked the mechanic why he did that. He said that they felt that it was good practice to have them both killed at once rather than having the engines running while the ignition was off as they have found that sometimes by delaying the engine kill the engine will start back up again.

Has anyone else seen this? Thoughts?
 
I have always pressed the kill button first. Watch the oil pressure gauge go down and hear the alarm. Then turn off the ignition. That way I know they were working when I shut down the engine.
 
On mine, the ignition has nothing to do with the running of the engine, so can be turned off or on at any time while the engine is running.
The kill switch cuts off the fuel, so the engine won't run. The starter requires the ignition to be on, and the switch is a multi position switch, so you go through "ignition"
to get to "Start"

Leaving the ignition on after shutdown does no harm, but does allow the hour meter to continue adding time.
If the alarms are sounding, turning the switch off turns off the alarms. If it gets turned on again, they don't sound again until the alternator is spinning.
 
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I am with Fog, I kill the engine with the kill switch and then turn off the ignition.
 
On my Perkins the Key Switch has to be in the on position for the fuel shut off solenoid to function.
 
I've worked on heavy equipment with diesel engines for 35 years and the correct proceedure for any machine with a kill button or cable operated shutdown is...
1- Stop the engine by shutting off the fuel supply
2- Turn of electrical switch
 
Greetings,
Ignition switch? Haven't got one. Push button to start. Pull knob (cable) to stop. Hour meter only runs when engines run.
 
Push to kill button first. If one turns off the switch well before then, doesn't that affect recorded engine-run time?
 
Perkins, one switch. Off is off. Excepting the glow plugs.
 
Push to kill button first. If one turns off the switch well before then, doesn't that affect recorded engine-run time?

That seems to be the agreed order. As to adding to run time - miniscule effect and not worth worrying about. My engine run-time meter died years ago. Who cares what it says as long as the engine runs well, with minimal oil consumption, and clean exhaust. How it has been used and serviced is more important than how long it has run. :)
 
That seems to be the agreed order. As to adding to run time - miniscule effect and not worth worrying about. My engine run-time meter died years ago. Who cares what it says as long as the engine runs well, with minimal oil consumption, and clean exhaust. How it has been used and serviced is more important than how long it has run. :)
Not to step on ur toes but isn't that how you know when to service, by the amount of hours? I'm not by any means an expert so I may be wrong...
 
With a 6/354 NA Perkins, change the oil(s) and filters annually and it will outlast your grand-kids.
 
I would think it's best to keep the ignition and fuel running simultaneously as long as possible to keep the engine operating within its sweet spot until the end...then kill everything at once.

Why keep one or the other running if not needed to support operation? If it's no real problem doing both at once, why not? Either one alone won't support sustained combustion but I can imagine conditions where one or the other could sustain partial combustion upon shutdown and provide an extra kick or two to the engine.

If I could avoid those extra kicks, then it's all worth it.
 
I kill the engine and immediately turn off the key to avoid hearing the alarm. Simple enough. But I turn on the key again to read the hours of the day's cruise for the log.
 
For me it is pressing the off button to switch the engine off and then turn off the key to turns everything off. But this must be depending on the kind of solenoid you have.
 
Fuel off first then electric and I suspect engines with just a key follow that order. All the engine manuals I have had called for that order. Maybe it has something to do with the alternator and its electronics since if you tern electric off first the belt is still driving the unit.
 
Curious ... Wonder what will happen if pushing the start button with the key off? Probably how the system is wired, and electricity has always been a mystery.
 
When I read ignition, I understood it to mean electrical power to the electronics of the engine. Is that what the PO meant?
 
I just turn off the key. Don't have a stop button.
 
Electronics? The only electronics on my engine, as far as I know, is the part that generates electricity to recharge the batteries and the starter motor.
 
My understanding is that unless you starve/kill the engines before turning off the electrics the alternator diodes get fried. Is that right?
The IG has bowden cables to cut off fuel, then I turn the breakers on the electric panel to "off". (Note: no ignition keys, main engine switches, in ER, usually stay on).
Edit:Nothing electronic about Lehmans.
 
Not to step on ur toes but isn't that how you know when to service, by the amount of hours? I'm not by any means an expert so I may be wrong...

Greetings,
Mr. SR. You're absolutely correct unless Mr. PB keeps separate note of the running hours.

Not really. It's not like say a motor vehicle. The usage of a diesel engine in your typical trawler cruiser is much different. So unless huge milage is done, just servicing once a year with oil and filter changes and zinc checks/replacement, etc, during the off season suffices. In our boating conditions anyway. If I went by engine hours, with our actual running time the guide, I would actually be under-servicing in terms of frequency, and suspect many others would also.
 
Does the Luger Operator's Manual not provide clear guidance?

If not, call "Lugger" Bob Senter at Lugger/Northern Lights for the answer.

Good Luck

Jeff
 
What ignition? 8 seconds of glow plugs prior to start.
Yes, power consumers need another source of power. But that has nothing to do with the main.
 
Pull the kill knob, which cuts the fuel off at the injection pump. Oil alarm sounds. Then rotate the starter switch to the off position. Switch has "off-on-start", just like a car or tractor.
 
On my JD 4045, you just turn the key to off. Glad I don't have to ponder such confusing sequencial issues. :rolleyes:

Ted
 
There are so many different possibilities the way a particular boat is wired......who knows?

Only someone who has the current wiring schematic, or has traced/deduced what is affected by the ignition switch would truly know.

Just the simplicity of fuel solenoids being power on or power off to fuel might be a concern in their minds.....personally, I could care less if all the indicators drop to zero.....which usually means key on till they do.

But if you have a bunch of aftermarket stuff wired in....again, only someone who has seen your setup can really be sure what is best.
 
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"Switch has "off-on-start", just like a car or tractor".

This is a great setup as the ACC position can control the operation of an $18.00 RV merge solenoid .

This will join the house batts to the alt and disconnect on shut down.

More thinking requirement removed ,you could lend the boat to your mother inlaw.

KISS
 
My understanding is that unless you starve/kill the engines before turning off the electrics the alternator diodes get fried. Is that right?
The IG has bowden cables to cut off fuel, then I turn the breakers on the electric panel to "off". (Note: no ignition keys, main engine switches, in ER, usually stay on).
Edit:Nothing electronic about Lehmans.

The Alt would be my concern as well. Wouldn't cutting ignition switch cut 12v sensing and the Alt districts...Similar to turning off the batty SW when running...
On mine, the ignition has nothing to do with the running of the engine, so can be turned off or on at any time while the engine is running.
The kill switch cuts off the fuel, so the engine won't run. The starter requires the ignition to be on, and the switch is a multi position switch, so you go through "ignition"
to get to "Start"

Leaving the ignition on after shutdown does no harm, but does allow the hour meter to continue adding time.
If the alarms are sounding, turning the switch off turns off the alarms. If it gets turned on again, they don't sound again until the alternator is spinning.

When I read ignition, I understood it to mean electrical power to the electronics of the engine. Is that what the PO meant?

"Switch has "off-on-start", just like a car or tractor".

This is a great setup as the ACC position can control the operation of an $18.00 RV merge solenoid .

This will join the house batts to the alt and disconnect on shut down.

More thinking requirement removed ,you could lend the boat to your mother inlaw.

KISS
 

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