Trawler chb redoing teak decks

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Ahh Ensenada!! Was just there, we compete in the N.O.R.R.A and Score races, just raced the 1000. I have seen the yards there, need to stop in and make some contacts. Still have teak around my windows and on the cap rail, looking for options.Could you keep us posted on your experiences with them? Name of the yard? Friends just left the Corral, headed south, Nice Place!!
 
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I've been thinking of starting an elongated thread on my refit - I am 6-months into it, and will be done sometime next March or so. I should probably ping a TF moderator and ask for ideas on best way to do an ongoing log without being intrusive.

We had originally planned on heading off cruising in 2005, but I got a job offer I really liked so put it off for too long. Boat languished in Treasure Island San Francisco for years and really needed TLC. So we are over-improving it - next owner, after my passing, will get a helluva a boat for a great price. Hopefully, that is many years away.

I started at Baja Naval in Ensenada. Unfortunately, a bit of bait-and-switch there so ended up with a small team that broke-away from Baja Naval 5-years ago - Niza Marine - Home. I was there last week and while progress is slow, I'm very happy with the work. Nice team, and I trust them.
 
I completely agree with this post. New style glued teak is a really great decking. It isn't cheap but that alone isn't a reason to talk this solution down.
Glued down teak is a great way to go. My bow is fitted with glued down teak which came in sections. It was then glued on top of fiberglass. As stated, even if the chalking leaks a little it doesn’t cause any issues. I love the look and feel of the teak deck. It does however require some Semco sealer every few months to maintain the beauty
 
Robert,
Screwed down teak decks (while attractive to look at and feel good underfoot) were on my "don't want list" when boat shopping.
One experienced broker I dealt with suggested removing and recaulking 20% of the screws every year on a rotational basis. In that way, they would be "refurbished" every 5 years. Not my cup of tea!! Way, way too much work and too much downside when they do leak (if not adequately maintained).

My advice, especially if you are planning on keeping the boat for the longer term, is to bite the bullet now. Pull up all the teak, repair the deck as needed (hopefully you don't have rot), and put on non skid.
Unfortunately if you have "bad leaks" (unless they started suddenly), you probably do have wet coring and are looking at a potentially very big job.
Sorry, but just my best guess and opinion based on what you have stated.

I agree. I looked for a boat without Teak decks. I found a Grand Banks 42 that had the decking removed and holes patched. The previous owner ran out of energy/funds before the painting was completed. The underlayment was in good shape so all that was required was to complete the prep and paint. It turned out really nice. Thankfully, GB makes a very solid deck so no additional fiberglass was needed.

I would like to think that this approach increased the resale value of the boat. Maybe not, but a knowledgeable buyer will appreciate this improvement in maintainability.
 
I removed the teak on my fly bridge and put 3 layers of fg cloth down with a great gel coat floor on that. You have to remember that water travels...the leak could be up front but no water appears until it finds an exit further along the deck or wherever...path of least resistance and gravity etc. Many trawlers were shipped from Taiwan in pieces...the fly bridge superstructure for instance and were installed in North America. I don’t believe mine was ever watertight right from the start. I have sealed the fb to the main cabin and deck all the way around the brow of the fb to the back of the boat and repaired all soft spots. Fortunately my deck had no core...just hardwood framing. Better than new! It’s basic woodwork and fibreglass work if your up to it but it can take a long time to do. I also did the calking on the main decks...that was a learning curve too...Fein tools makes a puller to get the old stuff out ...highly recommended...I invented a sanding block to clean out residue from the old caulk and used a metal sandpaper I got from Lee Valley Tools.This was all done outside, under tarps many times and during spring summer and fall as weather allowed as weather mattered a lot for curing resins and epoxies. I enjoyed the work as the results were very satisfying. Don’t ever expect to get your time and money out though...it’s a labour of love. Take a look at my profile page for results and feel free to contact me with questions.
 
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