Transpac Eagle 32
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- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
dhmeissner
Guru
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2012
- Messages
- 1,569
- Location
- North America
- Vessel Name
- The Promise
- Vessel Make
- Roughwater 35
Transpac,
I agree, I looked at your photos and really like what your doing, guality work!
Cheers
Nomad Willy
Guru
I think the fuel burn on the FL 90 should be 1.5 to 1.75gph at about 6.6 knots.
For the 135 about 2gph.
50% load for the 120 is 3gph.
For the 135 about 2gph.
50% load for the 120 is 3gph.
Transpac
Veteran Member
January might not be Grand Haven's finest time of year! 
Our flybridge-step solution is not necessarily for the faint-of-heart, although my 80-yr-old mom can manage it with a bit of help. Facing the flybridge and holding the grabrails, you take a step up and back onto the gunwhale, then a step up on the step, then up onto the flybridge. There's one on each side of the boat. We're still tweaking it.
This photo also shows the prototype bench--cushions hopefully coming this spring. Although we found that people would end up sitting backwards with legs hanging over the aft deck to talk to whomever was back there.
Our flybridge-step solution is not necessarily for the faint-of-heart, although my 80-yr-old mom can manage it with a bit of help. Facing the flybridge and holding the grabrails, you take a step up and back onto the gunwhale, then a step up on the step, then up onto the flybridge. There's one on each side of the boat. We're still tweaking it.
This photo also shows the prototype bench--cushions hopefully coming this spring. Although we found that people would end up sitting backwards with legs hanging over the aft deck to talk to whomever was back there.
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HeadedToTexas
Guru
My kinda stairs! Nice work around to reach the bridge with the new bench too. It's entirely possible that I am completely underestimating how small the 32 is, but my idea is to do some fiberglass work to the corner of the salon and sacrifice some headroom in the corner outboard of the hatch to the cockpit. The convertible couch on the starboard side would give way to an extended counter enlarging the galley. The effect is somewhat like the Mainship 34 stairs.
Attachments
Transpac
Veteran Member
Wow, great looking boat and great idea for the steps! I like the dark hull--we're debating whether to paint ours white or dark blue.
I'll try to get some galley photos this weekend. We've prototyped a smaller bench seat (with storage) in that corner to make room for a larger counter.
I'd love to see more photos if you get a chance!
I'll try to get some galley photos this weekend. We've prototyped a smaller bench seat (with storage) in that corner to make room for a larger counter.
I'd love to see more photos if you get a chance!
HeadedToTexas
Guru
Wish it were my boat! Just one I saw on YW. For better or worse, we're still deep in the planning stages.
Have you looked at removing the built in bench surrounding the cockpit? Guessing they aren't structural and it would really open that space up substantially.
Have you looked at removing the built in bench surrounding the cockpit? Guessing they aren't structural and it would really open that space up substantially.
Transpac
Veteran Member
We talked about that, but decided the cockpit would still be too small for more than a couple of chairs, which might end up being in the way.
But I imagine it depends on how you're using the boat...if it's just two people cruising, it might be nice to open that space up for grilling, etc. As I said, we do a lot of entertaining so, even though it's a bit weird that the bench faces forward, it does provide a lot of seating (and a step for getting over to the swim platform!)
But I imagine it depends on how you're using the boat...if it's just two people cruising, it might be nice to open that space up for grilling, etc. As I said, we do a lot of entertaining so, even though it's a bit weird that the bench faces forward, it does provide a lot of seating (and a step for getting over to the swim platform!)
HeadedToTexas
Guru
Figuring on it being just the two of us 95% of the time. Speaking of the step over stern, do you miss a door to the swim platform or isn't it a big deal?
HeadedToTexas
Guru
Have you looked at what it would take to cut one in? The big brother Eagle 40 has a stern door. I love the gunwale doors on the 40 too.
Transpac
Veteran Member
Andrew here.
The layout works. Personal space fwd, business mid ships, and social aft. The upper deck is more "split level", keeping the profile low.
Big project, but I'm still smiling. I am two years into a five year refurb. We use it 100% during the on season, and tear into it in the off.
Consider adding a 40" platform. A couple deck chairs back there really extends the aft cockpit.
16,000 lbs. Ford Lehman 90. 150 gallons fuel (twin saddle tanks).
The layout works. Personal space fwd, business mid ships, and social aft. The upper deck is more "split level", keeping the profile low.
Big project, but I'm still smiling. I am two years into a five year refurb. We use it 100% during the on season, and tear into it in the off.
Consider adding a 40" platform. A couple deck chairs back there really extends the aft cockpit.
16,000 lbs. Ford Lehman 90. 150 gallons fuel (twin saddle tanks).
HeadedToTexas
Guru
I can see us on a similar schedule. Ours will be a Loop boat and then a follow the seasons boat. Being a project boat means you get it the way you want it. Or at least that's what I'm trying to tell myself.
Nomad Willy
Guru
to Texas,
Been there did that.
I should’a got mine a bit cheaper but I wanted the Willard hull.
My dinghy situation is not yet solved.
In 04 (about) got and installed a new engine. New aluminum fuel tanks. 95% new electronics. Rebuilt trans, new prop and shaft, new Wabasto, hydraulic steering ect ect.
Never have tallied up the $ .. prolly scared to.
Dosn’t take me long to get ready for a trip though.
And as you say it’s like a custom build .. almost.
Trouble is you get to give it mostly away when you sell.
Only way to get your money’s worth is in use.
Been there did that.
I should’a got mine a bit cheaper but I wanted the Willard hull.
My dinghy situation is not yet solved.
In 04 (about) got and installed a new engine. New aluminum fuel tanks. 95% new electronics. Rebuilt trans, new prop and shaft, new Wabasto, hydraulic steering ect ect.
Never have tallied up the $ .. prolly scared to.
Dosn’t take me long to get ready for a trip though.
And as you say it’s like a custom build .. almost.
Trouble is you get to give it mostly away when you sell.
Only way to get your money’s worth is in use.
HeadedToTexas
Guru
Like a lot of things, custom doesn't pay when it comes time to sell. Good point. As I read so often here, all boats are a compromise. The Eagle 32 and 40 are as close as I've seen to what I've come to want. Unlike the 40, the 32 can be found at a price that lends itself to a project. Not so much for the 40.
Part of me says re-power with a new Hyundai or some common rail modern diesel and enjoy the efficiency and information and all that goes with new stuff. The other part thinks a classic Perkins or Lehman should run forever with proper maintenance. Why did you re-power?
Part of me says re-power with a new Hyundai or some common rail modern diesel and enjoy the efficiency and information and all that goes with new stuff. The other part thinks a classic Perkins or Lehman should run forever with proper maintenance. Why did you re-power?
jgrossenbacher
Newbie
Eagle 32 engine room
I am a new owner for a1999 model and am looking to place batteries nearer the electrical panel. there are on either side of the engine (Perkins 90) platforms that 'appear' to have dead space below to allow battery placement. does anyone have experience with this are in the Eagle 32 model. thx
I am a new owner for a1999 model and am looking to place batteries nearer the electrical panel. there are on either side of the engine (Perkins 90) platforms that 'appear' to have dead space below to allow battery placement. does anyone have experience with this are in the Eagle 32 model. thx
Nomad Willy
Guru
Transpac,
The floors right over my engine were cut by some previous owner. 2X4’s. They left a fill-in 2x and I thought it was factory done. Probably subconsciously thought no-one would dream of cutting an existing floor timber for better access. But then I saw another same model boat and the timber was not cut.
We have been in 4-5’ seas many many times and 7-8’ a few times. The worst moment I can remember from a structural standpoint was being thrown first high up and then sideways into a trough. I distinctly heard a “crack” sound at that event. Looked everywhere for signs of damage but never found any.
I’m not endorsing skippers cutting their floors but it was done on our Willard w/o any known downsides. I may be able to find my pics and post. Only one 2X4 floor joist was cut.
The floors right over my engine were cut by some previous owner. 2X4’s. They left a fill-in 2x and I thought it was factory done. Probably subconsciously thought no-one would dream of cutting an existing floor timber for better access. But then I saw another same model boat and the timber was not cut.
We have been in 4-5’ seas many many times and 7-8’ a few times. The worst moment I can remember from a structural standpoint was being thrown first high up and then sideways into a trough. I distinctly heard a “crack” sound at that event. Looked everywhere for signs of damage but never found any.
I’m not endorsing skippers cutting their floors but it was done on our Willard w/o any known downsides. I may be able to find my pics and post. Only one 2X4 floor joist was cut.
Nomad Willy
Guru
HTT,
I see your post#45 "why'd you repower?
We had only bought the boat a few months back. Ran her up to WOT and noticed we were down 250rpm from rated 3000. Then the engine quit. Was a fuel delivery problem but only reared it's head at WOT. Took about 2 min. to quit. Got that fixed but then was having trouble starting the Perkins 107. There was a flame thrower type starting aid that I equated w building a fire under a D8 Cat to get it warm enough to start. Viewed it as questionable hardware. We planed to move to Alaska next and the old Perky just wasn't measuring up. Knowing we were going to be cruising extensively repowering started looking good. The Perkins was actually in pretty good shape and I sold it to a skipper w a 43' sail boat.
Bought my engine for about half the cost of most "brand names" through a supplier of goods to the fish business in BC and Alaska. Klassen Engines. One of the big pluses was that they offered a steel exhaust manifold that was extremely rust resistant. They have been marinizeing engines since the 60's and only had one manifold rust out. I like no aluminum alloy on a boat engine as I'd had corrosion problems w a Yanmar engine in the 1st trawler. Also I opted for a remote V belt driven Jabsco seawater pump. I can get impellers almost anywhere.
I changed engine mount locations but the rest was close to putting another Perky in.
The engine I chose is an S4L2 of 37 industrially rated hp. Vetus and Westerbeke use exactly the same engine and claim 42 and 44hp respectively. Interesting was that the Mitsu has exactly the same bore and stroke as the Perky. And of course the same cu. In. displacement. Modern materials like thin-wall casting was part of the package but the starting system was old school w glow plugs. Very dependable. It has (also old school) "pre-cup" combustion chambers that produce excellent cold weather starting but very slightly less efficiency. The pre-cups also are quieter and smoother than the more vogue and modern direct injection.
Had my BW 2.57-1 gear rebuilt w smoother light duty clutch discs and a narrower oil pump for less pressure. The BW gear is set up for engines of 250hp and was/is way in excess of what was needed for a 37hp engine.
All the modifications and everything else has worked out well except the remote oil filter. Eventually removed that.
Some of these things I encountered may be of interest to you. Things to think about anyway. For your Eagle 32 I'd recommend 55 to 65hp. Four to five hp per ton disp. is about perfect for pleasure trawlers. One thing Willard got right and many to most get wrong.
The pic is showing the cut floor joist. An old pic.
I see your post#45 "why'd you repower?
We had only bought the boat a few months back. Ran her up to WOT and noticed we were down 250rpm from rated 3000. Then the engine quit. Was a fuel delivery problem but only reared it's head at WOT. Took about 2 min. to quit. Got that fixed but then was having trouble starting the Perkins 107. There was a flame thrower type starting aid that I equated w building a fire under a D8 Cat to get it warm enough to start. Viewed it as questionable hardware. We planed to move to Alaska next and the old Perky just wasn't measuring up. Knowing we were going to be cruising extensively repowering started looking good. The Perkins was actually in pretty good shape and I sold it to a skipper w a 43' sail boat.
Bought my engine for about half the cost of most "brand names" through a supplier of goods to the fish business in BC and Alaska. Klassen Engines. One of the big pluses was that they offered a steel exhaust manifold that was extremely rust resistant. They have been marinizeing engines since the 60's and only had one manifold rust out. I like no aluminum alloy on a boat engine as I'd had corrosion problems w a Yanmar engine in the 1st trawler. Also I opted for a remote V belt driven Jabsco seawater pump. I can get impellers almost anywhere.
I changed engine mount locations but the rest was close to putting another Perky in.
The engine I chose is an S4L2 of 37 industrially rated hp. Vetus and Westerbeke use exactly the same engine and claim 42 and 44hp respectively. Interesting was that the Mitsu has exactly the same bore and stroke as the Perky. And of course the same cu. In. displacement. Modern materials like thin-wall casting was part of the package but the starting system was old school w glow plugs. Very dependable. It has (also old school) "pre-cup" combustion chambers that produce excellent cold weather starting but very slightly less efficiency. The pre-cups also are quieter and smoother than the more vogue and modern direct injection.
Had my BW 2.57-1 gear rebuilt w smoother light duty clutch discs and a narrower oil pump for less pressure. The BW gear is set up for engines of 250hp and was/is way in excess of what was needed for a 37hp engine.
All the modifications and everything else has worked out well except the remote oil filter. Eventually removed that.
Some of these things I encountered may be of interest to you. Things to think about anyway. For your Eagle 32 I'd recommend 55 to 65hp. Four to five hp per ton disp. is about perfect for pleasure trawlers. One thing Willard got right and many to most get wrong.
The pic is showing the cut floor joist. An old pic.
Attachments
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jgrossenbacher
Newbie
Thank you for reply. I am not intending to alter the floor or the floor supports, but rather the fiberglass 'platform' below the pilot house floor on either side of the engine. this appears to be a dead space into which batteries may fit. thx
jdhinckley
Newbie
- Joined
- May 10, 2021
- Messages
- 3
I assume the Eagle 32's are solid hull and cored topsides and house?
HeadedToTexas
Guru
Yikes! Sorry Willy, I know I have read this post a couple times, but now see I never replied. Better late than never, hopefully.
The Eagle 32 still feels like the right size for me, but a series of odd events made late 2020 the right time to buy and we ended up with a less of a project boat. Our Mariner 37 has some aging electronics and I have already upgraded several components, but I hope to get many years out of the Cummins QSB.
Nomad Willy
Guru
I repowered mostly because we were moving to SE Alaska and I wanted all the dependability I could get. And specifically I wanted glow plug starting.
But we got very involved in a fairly extensive re-fit. Never really thought about it as a possible mistake but a twin or sailboat could have been better.
The main reason airplanes fly over cities and towns w only very rare engine failures is because of a very high level of maintenance. Engine design and construction also apply but mostly it’s maintenance.
Many boaters think they are applying high levels of maintenance but they’re just mostly think’in.
“Aging electronics” work for me and largely just as well as they did in the day.
But we got very involved in a fairly extensive re-fit. Never really thought about it as a possible mistake but a twin or sailboat could have been better.
The main reason airplanes fly over cities and towns w only very rare engine failures is because of a very high level of maintenance. Engine design and construction also apply but mostly it’s maintenance.
Many boaters think they are applying high levels of maintenance but they’re just mostly think’in.
“Aging electronics” work for me and largely just as well as they did in the day.
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HeadedToTexas
Guru
I am certainly in that just thinking category. I am also, regrettably, in a category or age or something that offers resistance to involved and complex pre-flight inspection routines. Feels like a bad habit and I am trying to overcome it.
Nomad Willy
Guru
Have 2 or 3 pre-flight lists.
The things you check or tend to always and the things that don’t need such frequent attention like polishing both chrome anchors.
I don’t always check engine oil. I do for a time but after many checks one can assume there are no leaks worth constant attention. But right after an oil change .. check for sure. History is the key I’m say’in.
The things you check or tend to always and the things that don’t need such frequent attention like polishing both chrome anchors.
I don’t always check engine oil. I do for a time but after many checks one can assume there are no leaks worth constant attention. But right after an oil change .. check for sure. History is the key I’m say’in.
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HeadedToTexas
Guru
I do check main engine oil and coolant level before every run and I do monitor gauge trends carefully, but I wish I checked transmission oil, transmission cables, bilge pump operation, and strainers more regularly. Having 2 or 3 pre-flight lists is a good idea. I'll get busy. Thanks Eric.
Transpac
Veteran Member
I have a 1986 Eagle 32.
Love the boat for a couple. It adheres the the adage “buy the smallest boat you can be comfortable in”. I wish it had an island berth, … but it’s not gonna happen due to integrated water tank and available hull geometry.
Maybe something you all could help me with … I am experiencing some water in the bilge. It appears to be coming from the outside (unfortunately). Before I start poking around … I wanna know more about the hull construction.
I know the hull is solid glass (no core), but I am wondering what the full keel is filled with?
Love the boat for a couple. It adheres the the adage “buy the smallest boat you can be comfortable in”. I wish it had an island berth, … but it’s not gonna happen due to integrated water tank and available hull geometry.
Maybe something you all could help me with … I am experiencing some water in the bilge. It appears to be coming from the outside (unfortunately). Before I start poking around … I wanna know more about the hull construction.
I know the hull is solid glass (no core), but I am wondering what the full keel is filled with?
