Tile Countertop Question

[nmt]

Hey all, I’ve removed the original laminate galley countertops on my Defever 41 and thinking about replacing them with two large format 2ft by 4ft tiles (cut to shape). Planning to use this brand because they are only 7mm thick, https://www.flooranddecor.com/maximo-thin-tile?prefn2=size&prefv2=24%20x%2048. I don’t want to go super thick. Any tile experts have some tips on how to install over the original plywood? I was thinking I could do a coat of epoxy over the plywood to waterproof it and then flexibond thinset. Or do I need a layer of Ditra to ensure there is no cracking? There will only be one seam and that will be hidden by the sink as the tiles are wide enough that it be just under the edge of it, see attached photo.

[Choices]

They make a latex tile adhesive, premixed at HD.

Use it to skim coat plywood, it will waterproof plywood.

Once dry use same stuff to stick tile.

HD also has a water based epoxy grout that is pretty dang stain resistant to staining. I have never had a stain that did not clean with 409 & chlorox bleach.

[mvweebles]

Waterproofing liquid membrane. I think Floor & Decor carries Mapei, but ask. There are competing products that work fine too.

https://www.mapei.com/us/en-us/mapelastic-aquadefense

Peter

[fryedaze]

Following
I want to do the same thing. I am looking at 2' x 2' granite or marble. The porcelain looks like another good choice.

[Datenight]

Use the Ditra. It will waterproof and take care of the one seam. Not sure how well thinset will adhere to epoxy.

How thick is the plywood? I'm sure you know it needs to have no flex esp. with big format tiles. If there is flex, can you add another "joist" under the ply? Be sure all adhesive is removed from the substrate before using the Ditra. Schluter will guarantee the the job if you use their adhesives.

Rob

[Comodave]

On our last boat I made a new countertop out of Corian. Made a pattern, routed the Corian and then glued it down with big dabs of silicone. Worked fine. You could probably just use silicone to glue your tiles down. If you put big dabs it will allow for some movement and fill any low spots. The silicone will stick to plywood.

[PhilPB]

Originally Posted by nmt

Hey all, I’ve removed the original laminate galley countertops on my Defever 41 and thinking about replacing them with two large format 2ft by 4ft tiles (cut to shape). Planning to use this brand because they are only 7mm thick, https://www.flooranddecor.com/maximo...v2=24%20x%2048. I don’t want to go super thick. Any tile experts have some tips on how to install over the original plywood? I was thinking I could do a coat of epoxy over the plywood to waterproof it and then flexibond thinset. Or do I need a layer of Ditra to ensure there is no cracking? There will only be one seam and that will be hidden by the sink as the tiles are wide enough that it be just under the edge of it, see attached photo.

I looked at those same tiles for a backslash. They are incredibly delicate and chip very easily.

[nmt]

Originally Posted by PhilPB

I looked at those same tiles for a backslash. They are incredibly delicate and chip very easily.

Ah good to know. Did you end up returning them?

[nmt]

Thanks for all advice. Maybe corian is a better route if these are so delicate.

[Mako]

Corian burns/stains with hot pots. Today’s trend is more towards quartzite, which holds up better, although not as good as true granite.

[nmt]

Originally Posted by Datenight

Use the Ditra. It will waterproof and take care of the one seam. Not sure how well thinset will adhere to epoxy.

How thick is the plywood? I'm sure you know it needs to have no flex esp. with big format tiles. If there is flex, can you add another "joist" under the ply? Be sure all adhesive is removed from the substrate before using the Ditra. Schluter will guarantee the the job if you use their adhesives.

Rob

It’s 1/2 inch ply. Seems pretty well supported.

The challenge with quartz etc is I’m trying to not rip out my whole counter top so I need something thin (edge is capped with 1.5 inches of teak so don’t want to build it up too much). I don’t love laminate so would rather not go back that route. Tile seemed promising but worrying if it is that delicate. I guess I could get a bit thicker of a tile. But maybe I’m better off biting the bullet and taking the plywood and yeah edge off and putting in a thick piece of quartz etc.

[Comodave]

Originally Posted by Mako

Corian burns/stains with hot pots. Today’s trend is more towards quartzite, which holds up better, although not as good as true granite.

Yes, but you can DIY Corian. Try to get someone other than a marine carpentry shop to do work on a boat. Home Depot, Lowes would not do it when I asked. I bought a solid surface material online. It works with standard woodworking tools. I made a pattern with strips of luan plywood. Transferred the strip pattern to a sheet of luan plywood. Then clamped the full size pattern to the solid surface and used a patterning bit in the router and cut the solid surface to size. Then used dabs of silicone to adhere the solid surface material in place.

[Mako]

It looks like you hired frosty the snowman to install your counter! That one-piece really looks beautiful. Nice job.

No respirator - gotta take care of those lungs.

[nmt]

Originally Posted by Comodave

Yes, but you can DIY Corian. Try to get someone other than a marine carpentry shop to do work on a boat. Home Depot, Lowes would not do it when I asked. I bought a solid surface material online. It works with standard woodworking tools. I made a pattern with strips of luan plywood. Transferred the strip pattern to a sheet of luan plywood. Then clamped the full size pattern to the solid surface and used a patterning bit in the router and cut the solid surface to size. Then used dabs of silicone to adhere the solid surface material in place.

Nice work! What thickness corian did you use? Did you leave a gap for expansion?

[PhilPB]

Originally Posted by nmt

Ah good to know. Did you end up returning them?

Didn't buy them. As I was handling them in the store I noticed chips on many of them. Also the first one I moved just barely touched the tile next to it and chipped. I installed glass.
I plan on installing tile on our countertop as well and plan to probably use 24" x 24 with the goal being one tile width from edge to backslash. The PO used an epoxy on the current top. I will scuff up the top, put 1-2coats of Zinser 123 primer, then apply the tile with adhesive (probably Lexel) I've successfully used it with tile and stone, works incredibly well. I have used the primer as an adhesive grabber more than a few times successfully with no failures.

[Datenight]

Originally Posted by nmt

Nice work! What thickness corian did you use? Did you leave a gap for expansion?

Quarter inch thickness would be fine with a solid plywood base.

The tile is most vulnerable to chipping during cutting. Be sure it is well supported.

Another option is 3/4” granite. Often available at surplus building supply stores. Comes in sheets five feet long by thirty inches (if I recall) wide. I used that in the green boat. Can post photos if you like.

Rob

[Comodave]

It was 1/2”. We left a very small gap between the solid surface and the fiddles on the countertop. Then filled it with a gray color caulk. It looked great when we were done. The problem with a lot of fabricators is they don’t have insurance to work on boats. I believe it may be related to the Jones Act, at least that was what one of them told me. On a previous boat, about 10 boats ago, we tried to find someplace like Home Depot to come and do the solid surface work. Finally had to get a marine woodworker and his prices were more than the top of the line granite then for solid surface. So on our last boat I decided to DIY it. The problem is finding a source that will sell you solid surface material. I found one in Tucson that sold to DIY.

[mvweebles]

Originally Posted by Mako

Corian burns/stains with hot pots. Today’s trend is more towards quartzite, which holds up better, although not as good as true granite.

I like Corian a lot. Like Comodave, I DIY mine over 20 years ago and it's held up well (actually, was a competing product that was easier to source). I've never had the issue of burning or scorching Mako highlights. One thing that works well is it doesn't chip glassware nearly as easily as stone or quartz.

30 years ago I did tile counters on the Uniflite 42 I lived aboard. It was pretty easy. Scuffed the laminate witb 60-grit and it held together just fine. Tile inherently looks DIY though.

On Weebles for her refit, I again with Corian, this time with molded in sinks. They do get some staining that requires Soft Scrub for cleaning, but again, a very forgiving surface.

I bypassed re-installing fiddle rails when I did the work 20+ years ago. Did not miss them so didn't do it this time either. A damp paper towel beneath plates and pots keeps them pretty sticky on the counter.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

Peter

[Mako]

"One thing that works well is it doesn't chip glassware nearly as easily as stone or quartz."

Interesting that you bring that up, because I've noticed that also, especially compared with tile or granite, which is hard as a rock. I suppose the Corian has just a small amount of give to it.

[Comodave]

I got mine at solidsurface.com.