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06-20-2020, 06:22 PM
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#1
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Guru
City: Southport, FL near Panama City
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Switch threaded barrel too short
I have a rheostat attached to a circuit board I want to install on my helm console, but its threaded barrel is too short to pass through the 1/4-inch fiberglass and be secured in place like other switches on the console. Options seem to be to make a large cutout and apply some thin panel material to the console with the rheostat and circuit board secured to it. That seems a nonstarter. Second method I would prefer over the first idea would be too break out the Dremel and thin out a slot for the board and the hole area for the switch's pole to extend the necessary length through the console for the surface nut to capture its threads. I am wondering if any of you clever types have come up with some sort of switch barrel extender useful for this sort of thing.
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Rich Gano
FROLIC (2005 MainShip 30 Pilot II)
Panama City area
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06-20-2020, 06:58 PM
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#2
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Guru
City: Looking
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I have always used your second method. If the switch body is round, a forstner or spade bit can do the job if you're careful.
You can also buy switches with varying length threaded parts, e.g., Digikey or Mouser (.com).
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06-20-2020, 07:01 PM
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#3
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Moderator Emeritus
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Do you have a palm router or a RotoZip? You could route out the backside of the panel to get it to the proper thickness for the switch. What is the panel made out of? With a RotoZip you may have to cut the bit down in lenght to make that shallow of a cut. By using one of these you can control the depth of cut much more precisely than a Dremel tool free hand.
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06-20-2020, 08:06 PM
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#4
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Guru
City: Southport, FL near Panama City
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Thanks guys, I have plenty of Dremel and Roto-zip tooling to cut the fiberglass with but not a terrible lot of space to work with back there. Problem with getting a longer barrel switch is that this is specific resistance rheostat soldered to the board which will have to have a slot cut for itself to assist in raising the switch barrel through the panel.
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Rich Gano
FROLIC (2005 MainShip 30 Pilot II)
Panama City area
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06-20-2020, 08:16 PM
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#5
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Guru
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Can you get a rheostat with a longer barrel and shaft?
Can you make a small bracket to hold the rheostat behind the panel and extend the shaft through the panel using a piece of rod and a set screw coupler. Just file a flat on each shaft end so the set screw has a flat area to land on and use a bit of a thread locker.
Blue 242 if that's all you have or the Loctite small screw, 222, locker. to lock the setscrews.
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06-20-2020, 08:25 PM
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#6
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Guru
City: Sidney BC Canada
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Drill a tight hole for the switch barrel & put a little of the dreaded 5200 on the sides of the hole & the barrel of the switch, no need for the barrel nut........
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06-20-2020, 08:59 PM
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#7
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Guru
City: Southport, FL near Panama City
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rochepoint
Drill a tight hole for the switch barrel & put a little of the dreaded 5200 on the sides of the hole & the barrel of the switch, no need for the barrel nut........
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Problem is, I think, is that the switch will mabe stick clear by 1/32 of an inch if at all. I would still need to extend the rod of the switch, which I guess i can do. Hmmm.
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Rich Gano
FROLIC (2005 MainShip 30 Pilot II)
Panama City area
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06-20-2020, 09:01 PM
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#8
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Guru
City: Southport, FL near Panama City
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C lectric
Can you get a rheostat with a longer barrel and shaft?
Can you make a small bracket to hold the rheostat behind the panel and extend the shaft through the panel using a piece of rod and a set screw coupler. Just file a flat on each shaft end so the set screw has a flat area to land on and use a bit of a thread locker.
Blue 242 if that's all you have or the Loctite small screw, 222, locker. to lock the setscrews.
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Got to use the rheostat I have. The bracket/set screw coupler combo sounds like a good idea. Now to find the coupler.....
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Rich Gano
FROLIC (2005 MainShip 30 Pilot II)
Panama City area
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06-21-2020, 06:42 AM
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#9
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Guru
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Maybe a trip to the hardware store for a different knob. Maybe with a taller knob you can reduce the thickness of the console from the front and the knob would hide it.
Ted
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06-21-2020, 07:28 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
City: Marathon, FL & On Loop
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Rotary switch shafts of all types are extended by virtue of shaft extensions with set screw locking. Very common part. Check electronic suppliers .
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06-21-2020, 09:45 AM
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#11
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Guru
City: Southport, FL near Panama City
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgillroy
Rotary switch shafts of all types are extended by virtue of shaft extensions with set screw locking. Very common part. Check electronic suppliers .
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I am on it! Thanks.
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Rich Gano
FROLIC (2005 MainShip 30 Pilot II)
Panama City area
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06-21-2020, 09:46 AM
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#12
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Guru
City: Southport, FL near Panama City
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O C Diver
Maybe a trip to the hardware store for a different knob. Maybe with a taller knob you can reduce the thickness of the console from the front and the knob would hide it.
Ted
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Maybe one with an extended narrow section under the wider upper part... I am in no hurry and will find something with all these hints. Right now, I want to get the board into something weatherproof because after a year or two on board, it will be toast if unprotected. I will drill a hole in the weatherproof box to pass the switch knob through and then work out the rest of the problem getting it through the much thicker console fiberglass. I really appreciate everybody sending along ideas because I can get in a rut with my own, sometimes more difficult solutions.
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Rich Gano
FROLIC (2005 MainShip 30 Pilot II)
Panama City area
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06-21-2020, 09:50 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
City: Rockford, IL
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If you have a steady hand for detail work you might thin the - - -
front side of the dash and have the switch bezel (nut on back?) countered.
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06-21-2020, 12:58 PM
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#14
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Guru
City: Southport, FL near Panama City
Vessel Name: FROLIC
Vessel Model: Mainship 30 Pilot II since 2015. GB-42 1986-2015. Former Unlimited Tonnage Master
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moby Nick
front side of the dash and have the switch bezel (nut on back?) countered.
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LOL. Thanks, but in my particular case, I'd probably end up writing my name across the dash.
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Rich Gano
FROLIC (2005 MainShip 30 Pilot II)
Panama City area
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06-21-2020, 03:41 PM
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#15
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Guru
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,034
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Can you tap the fiberglass and thread the switch into the panel from behind?
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06-21-2020, 04:23 PM
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#16
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Guru
City: Southport, FL near Panama City
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Posts: 4,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jleonard
Can you tap the fiberglass and thread the switch into the panel from behind?
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Not a bad idea, once the fiberglass is thinned enough for the switch to protrude.
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Rich Gano
FROLIC (2005 MainShip 30 Pilot II)
Panama City area
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