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Old 06-20-2020, 06:22 PM   #1
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Switch threaded barrel too short

I have a rheostat attached to a circuit board I want to install on my helm console, but its threaded barrel is too short to pass through the 1/4-inch fiberglass and be secured in place like other switches on the console. Options seem to be to make a large cutout and apply some thin panel material to the console with the rheostat and circuit board secured to it. That seems a nonstarter. Second method I would prefer over the first idea would be too break out the Dremel and thin out a slot for the board and the hole area for the switch's pole to extend the necessary length through the console for the surface nut to capture its threads. I am wondering if any of you clever types have come up with some sort of switch barrel extender useful for this sort of thing.
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Old 06-20-2020, 06:58 PM   #2
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I have always used your second method. If the switch body is round, a forstner or spade bit can do the job if you're careful.

You can also buy switches with varying length threaded parts, e.g., Digikey or Mouser (.com).
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Old 06-20-2020, 07:01 PM   #3
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Do you have a palm router or a RotoZip? You could route out the backside of the panel to get it to the proper thickness for the switch. What is the panel made out of? With a RotoZip you may have to cut the bit down in lenght to make that shallow of a cut. By using one of these you can control the depth of cut much more precisely than a Dremel tool free hand.
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Old 06-20-2020, 08:06 PM   #4
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Thanks guys, I have plenty of Dremel and Roto-zip tooling to cut the fiberglass with but not a terrible lot of space to work with back there. Problem with getting a longer barrel switch is that this is specific resistance rheostat soldered to the board which will have to have a slot cut for itself to assist in raising the switch barrel through the panel.
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Old 06-20-2020, 08:16 PM   #5
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Can you get a rheostat with a longer barrel and shaft?
Can you make a small bracket to hold the rheostat behind the panel and extend the shaft through the panel using a piece of rod and a set screw coupler. Just file a flat on each shaft end so the set screw has a flat area to land on and use a bit of a thread locker.
Blue 242 if that's all you have or the Loctite small screw, 222, locker. to lock the setscrews.
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Old 06-20-2020, 08:25 PM   #6
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Drill a tight hole for the switch barrel & put a little of the dreaded 5200 on the sides of the hole & the barrel of the switch, no need for the barrel nut........
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Old 06-20-2020, 08:59 PM   #7
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Drill a tight hole for the switch barrel & put a little of the dreaded 5200 on the sides of the hole & the barrel of the switch, no need for the barrel nut........
Problem is, I think, is that the switch will mabe stick clear by 1/32 of an inch if at all. I would still need to extend the rod of the switch, which I guess i can do. Hmmm.
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Old 06-20-2020, 09:01 PM   #8
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Can you get a rheostat with a longer barrel and shaft?
Can you make a small bracket to hold the rheostat behind the panel and extend the shaft through the panel using a piece of rod and a set screw coupler. Just file a flat on each shaft end so the set screw has a flat area to land on and use a bit of a thread locker.
Blue 242 if that's all you have or the Loctite small screw, 222, locker. to lock the setscrews.
Got to use the rheostat I have. The bracket/set screw coupler combo sounds like a good idea. Now to find the coupler.....
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Old 06-21-2020, 06:42 AM   #9
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Maybe a trip to the hardware store for a different knob. Maybe with a taller knob you can reduce the thickness of the console from the front and the knob would hide it.

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Old 06-21-2020, 07:28 AM   #10
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Rotary switch shafts of all types are extended by virtue of shaft extensions with set screw locking. Very common part. Check electronic suppliers .
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Old 06-21-2020, 09:45 AM   #11
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Rotary switch shafts of all types are extended by virtue of shaft extensions with set screw locking. Very common part. Check electronic suppliers .
I am on it! Thanks.
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Old 06-21-2020, 09:46 AM   #12
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Maybe a trip to the hardware store for a different knob. Maybe with a taller knob you can reduce the thickness of the console from the front and the knob would hide it.

Ted
Maybe one with an extended narrow section under the wider upper part... I am in no hurry and will find something with all these hints. Right now, I want to get the board into something weatherproof because after a year or two on board, it will be toast if unprotected. I will drill a hole in the weatherproof box to pass the switch knob through and then work out the rest of the problem getting it through the much thicker console fiberglass. I really appreciate everybody sending along ideas because I can get in a rut with my own, sometimes more difficult solutions.
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Old 06-21-2020, 09:50 AM   #13
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If you have a steady hand for detail work you might thin the - - -

front side of the dash and have the switch bezel (nut on back?) countered.
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Old 06-21-2020, 12:58 PM   #14
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front side of the dash and have the switch bezel (nut on back?) countered.
LOL. Thanks, but in my particular case, I'd probably end up writing my name across the dash.
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Old 06-21-2020, 03:41 PM   #15
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Can you tap the fiberglass and thread the switch into the panel from behind?
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Old 06-21-2020, 04:23 PM   #16
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Can you tap the fiberglass and thread the switch into the panel from behind?
Not a bad idea, once the fiberglass is thinned enough for the switch to protrude.
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