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Old 10-30-2018, 07:09 PM   #21
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Thanks Rob! Good trick to know.
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Old 10-30-2018, 07:17 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Datenight View Post
Hi Hop,

Run the driver in reverse to punch through the foam. That will avoid the tear out. Then forward to drive the screws. Worked for me.

Rob
Yup, just like using a hole saw in vinyl upholstery, run it in reverse.
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Old 10-31-2018, 05:26 AM   #23
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What works well and helps keep the washer on the screw (especially when working an overhead) is to use an icepick or awl to make your hole in the insulation. Wrap masking tape around the drill bit to make your pilot hole if necessary. Wrap the screw with tape and drive the screw until the face of the insulation just dimples.

The tape will reduce the chances of the tool or screw grabbing the foam and balling up





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How do you guys mount it with screws and washers?

When I tried that I used an ice pick to punch through he foam and barrier. Then when I ran the screw in it tore a big chunk of foam out. Thatís why I switched to the spikes.

I think I was using #10 screws and fender washers.


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Hi Hop,

Run the driver in reverse to punch through the foam. That will avoid the tear out. Then forward to drive the screws. Worked for me.

Rob
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Old 10-31-2018, 05:34 AM   #24
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Acoustiblok is mass loaded vinyl (MLV) and is available without the trade name (basically generic) at plenty of outlets. I've even seen it at Lowes.

1lb (1/8") MLV has an STC of 28 all by itself, its the barrier in all the insulation products discussed this thread, and its the all purpose noise barrier / lead replacement used in the noise control industry.




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Check this out. Used their product to replace the insulation on a generator enclosure. Worked great. Acoustiblok.com.
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Old 10-31-2018, 11:05 PM   #25
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Hi Keys, did I meet you when I went up to Lauderdale to pick up Soundown?
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Old 10-31-2018, 11:21 PM   #26
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FWIW, 6mm acoustical cork is super easy to apply and designed to significantly reduce the noise between floors in high rise buildings. I lined Delfin's hull with it as a base layer before 2" Coast Guard fiberglass batts and even with the dry stack that exits through the "stack house" about 12" behind the pilot house, the db level in the PH with a CAT 3306 rumbling below is around 68 db. Certainly use Sounddown's acoustical foam vinyl sandwich, but line the area with cork first. You'll be very glad you did.

http://www.jelinek.com/product-infor...-underlayment/
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Old 02-27-2019, 12:49 PM   #27
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I'm going to revive this older thread on Soundown, rather than keep posting in the asbestos thread.

Has anyone used any of the hardboard Soundown products? I want to replace a "wall" on GRP "studs" in my KK. I need to be able to affix things to it. I'd prefer something that wasn't wood.
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Old 02-27-2019, 01:19 PM   #28
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When we redid our engine room we used Soundown perferated aluminum. On the outboard walls we didnít need sound insulation. We used marine ply and then went over that with their perforated aluminum. Weíve hung the water maker membrane, a back up charger and plumbing. That was three plus years ago and itís worked well.

https://soundown.com/wp-content/uplo...h-2010.1.A.pdf
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Old 02-27-2019, 01:27 PM   #29
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Beautiful. That's exactly what I was looking for...
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Old 02-27-2019, 01:42 PM   #30
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I worked with Steve from Sundown’s Fort Lauderdale office. He had good sugestions and saved me a lot of money. They shipped stuff the day I ordered. Ph 954-761-9188

We used the same material for the ceilings to replace the peg board. If you need more pictures let me know.
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Old 02-27-2019, 01:58 PM   #31
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I'd love more pictures, but I don't neeeed more. Feel free to add any you want to show off... and thanks again. Prolly later when I rip the junk out (this fall/winter) I'll be looking for more ideas. I'm just building the project list. thanks!
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