Smart plug melt down

[boatpoker]

This fella has had several Smart Plug melt downs.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Wasn't this the cause of the diver boat in SO Cali

 

[Comodave]

Wasn't this the cause of the diver boat in SO Cali

No, the dive boat was anchored and not plugged into shore power. They think it was portable batteries being charged in the main salon, maybe.

 

[tiltrider1]

Look at all the water draining out of the cord. Don’t think this is a smart plug issue. This is a water intrusion issue.

 

[rsn48]

Boatpoker, love your boat. I've kind of lost interest in boats that are "glass specials." For a 2001 boat, it feels like a boat from the 1930- 60 era which is a compliment not an insult from me. I'm a fan of wooden boats, just not a fan of wooden hulls. My boat is glass over plywood which has made a huge difference in maintains (original build).

 

[boatpoker]

Boatpoker, love your boat. I've kind of lost interest in boats that are "glass specials." For a 2001 boat, it feels like a boat from the 1930- 60 era which is a compliment not an insult from me. I'm a fan of wooden boats, just not a fan of wooden hulls. My boat is glass over plywood which has made a huge difference in maintains (original build).

Thanks, All my boats have been what I call "orphan boats".

 

[DDW]

Look at all the water draining out of the cord. Don’t think this is a smart plug issue. This is a water intrusion issue.

So, Smart Plugs can't be used near the water or in wet locations? Kinda limits their usefulness around boats....

 

[Comodave]

I have 2 of them on my boat. Never had any issues with them and he has had problems several times??? Maybe he was installing them incorrectly. The issue does seem to be the water inside of the plug. In the video I saw what appears like him pushing on the seal with a screw driver because it was sticking. If I remember correctly the directions tell you to lube it before you put it together. Maybe the lack of lube caused him to use a screwdriver on it and damaged the seal? Not sure because his video is from long distance and you can’t really tell exactly what he is doing.

 

[tiltrider1]

So, Smart Plugs can't be used near the water or in wet locations? Kinda limits their usefulness around boats....

Customer did a self install of a smart plug end on an old used power cord. We can’t be sure that it was done right. We also don’t know if he dropped the end in the water. We do know that a smart plug has more contact area then your standard 30A twist lock cable. I suspect that this failure would have happened regardless of what plug was on the end of that cable.

 

[boatpoker]

My shorepower cords are hardwired. When not in use we simply pull them in from inside a locker in the pilot house.

 

[C lectric]

Without actually inspecting his installation I can think of one big problem that I have seen people create for themselves by improper assembly of all plugs/receptacles on extension cords.

To often the cable insulation is not properly installed so the clamp and seal actually, RELIABLY grips the cable and closes on the insulation really gripping.

This can happen if the actual wires are cut too long, the clamp is improperly tightened or improperly set. The actual cable sheath must be gripped, not just at the very last bit of insulation but some what before the very insulation end. I have seen cables and hoses slip out of the clamping mechanism unless this detail is paid attention to.

Once that happens then water can enter the cable as the seal is gone when or if the insulation slides back.

His cable sheath is yellow so he has adapted his older cable from Marinco, or whoever, so if the installation was not done properly problems can occur.

The bend, as it enters the plug when connected to the receptacle could have contributed to the insulation pulling out or the clamp if not done properly.

Yes, these are details but are important details and this is also a guess from here just based on what I have seen over the years including my own goof ups.

Another could be once he installed the plug and never rechecked the actual wire clamps. Copper can flow from pressure, not much but it can. Add a bit of wiggling from use and it is just possible the wire clamp , not loosened yet, but the cold flow released some pressure under the clamps. Often in adaptions like this the plug should be opened some time later and the wire clamps given a tweak just to be sure.
But any looseness and resulting wetness can speed corrosion of the contacts
increasing resistance and of course heating.

Done properly these plugs are water tight.

 

[syjos]

My shorepower cords are hardwired. When not in use we simply pull them in from inside a locker in the pilot house.

My shore cords were hardwired like yours for a very long time. Worked perfectly.

I now use a Marinco 30 amp inlet mounted through a 8" X 8" stainless plate which is fastened to a steel electrical box flush mounted in a cutout on the exterior of the cabin sides. There is a temperature sensor mounted to the top of the steel box inside the boat that will send an alarm if it detects a higher than normal temperature. Since there is metal between the shore inlet and combustibles, nothing to start fires. I use a standard Marinco cordset.

Reason for not hardwireing anymore. I have three shore power inlets and use one most of the time so having multiple hardwired cords was a hassle.

 

[SteveK]

Hardwired?
Is there any comment from ABYC? In practise how far inside, is the cable used outside OK to run inside for any distance? I have the smartplug, but thinking of relocating.

 

[magna 6882]

On my boat the smart plugs are inside the stern behind a door so they never see any water.
This guys problem seems like load since all the plugs on the stern seem to show black stains from smoke?

 

[Spinner]

Here’s another vote for smart plugs. On this boat, the inlet is forward of the helm door, maybe 6 feet off the water.

 

[Comodave]

Hardwired?
Is there any comment from ABYC? In practise how far inside, is the cable used outside OK to run inside for any distance? I have the smartplug, but thinking of relocating.

The Glendinning cable system is hard wired. You would still need a breaker within 10’ if I read the guidelines correctly.

 

[boatpoker]

The Glendinning cable system is hard wired. You would still need a breaker within 10’ if I read the guidelines correctly.

Yes, thats all thats required.

 

[BDofMSP]

Especially with the heavy 50 amp cords, we LOVE our Glendinning system. It was on our boat shopping list as a "nice to have" and turns out we were right.

 

[rslifkin]

Especially with the heavy 50 amp cords, we LOVE our Glendinning system. It was on our boat shopping list as a "nice to have" and turns out we were right.

I wish I had a spot to mount something like that. Lugging 50 amp cords around by hand sucks, but with no cockpit or lazarette, I don't have a good alternative. Plus, hard wired cords would be good for reduced potential failure points.

 

[catalinajack]

That guy was an abject idiot. First of all, his cords were retrofitted with a Smart Plug end. And, obviously, he did a shoemaker job of installing the plug. See the duck tape wrapped around the cord where it enters the plug. He did not use the cone-shaped insulators that come with the Smart Plug kit. Of course, there was water intrusion. Of course, a melt-down occurred. It was 100% user error, user stupidity.

When I first read about Smart Plugs, I retrofitted an old "yellow cord" cordset which was very stiff and difficult to manage but still serviceable. It worked just fine, not even a hint of heat at the inlet. But, I finally tired of manhandling that old, stiff cold - my wife couldn't at all - and purchased a factory-made Smart Plug cordset. It was one of the wisest boat equipment purchases I ever made. The cord jacket is some kind of silicone rubber, is lighter weight, and remaines flexible in even very cold weather. My wife is able to coil it whereas it was impossible with the other cordset. Plus, the Smart Plug end is factory-sealed, thus, never any worry about water intrusion. And never mind the ease of plugging in to the house inlet. No more being on hands and knees trying to line up the prongs blindly and having to thread on the locking ring. With the Smart Plug one just pushes without much force necessary until the plug clicks into place with absolutely no danger of it releasing on its own.

This fella has had several Smart Plug melt downs.

 

[catalinajack]

Dave, the guy didn't use the sealing collar which came with the set. He used DUCT TAPE! Of course there was water intrusion. This was 100% user error and user stupidity.

I have 2 of them on my boat. Never had any issues with them and he has had problems several times??? Maybe he was installing them incorrectly. The issue does seem to be the water inside of the plug. In the video I saw what appears like him pushing on the seal with a screw driver because it was sticking. If I remember correctly the directions tell you to lube it before you put it together. Maybe the lack of lube caused him to use a screwdriver on it and damaged the seal? Not sure because his video is from long distance and you can’t really tell exactly what he is doing.

 

[Bacchus]

The Glendinning cable system is hard wired. You would still need a breaker within 10’ if I read the guidelines correctly.

Not to nit pick but I do believe the 10 ft is length of wire not physical distance. It would seem that one would need to run the total length of cord on the reel out each use or the cord remaing on the reel has to be included in the length?

 

[FoxtrotCharlie]

My shorepower cords are hardwired. When not in use we simply pull them in from inside a locker in the pilot house.

Good idea, but our boat has power inlets on both sides of the boat - and we really like that option. Doesn't really matter if we get a port or starboard side tie-up. I have 20', 30' and 50' 50AMP cords (had two 50', but cut one up). We use the 20' most often - so not too heavy to handle. And very easy to plug in on either side, at chest height from most docks.

 

[boatpoker]

Not to nit pick but I do believe the 10 ft is length of wire not physical distance. It would seem that one would need to run the total length of cord on the reel out each use or the cord remaing on the reel has to be included in the length?

You are correct, 10' of cable length.

 

[High Wire]

Agree poking the seal with a screwdriver doesn’t help the seal integrity. Looks like the duct tape is just an additional drip cover. Can’t tell from the distance.
And his fire extinguisher is a Kidde that’s on the recall list! Either the handle breaks off or the top explodes on use. Cheers.

 

[boatpoker]

And his fire extinguisher is a Kidde that’s on the recall list! Either the handle breaks off or the top explodes on use.

Great catch !

 

[BDofMSP]

Not to nit pick but I do believe the 10 ft is length of wire not physical distance. It would seem that one would need to run the total length of cord on the reel out each use or the cord remaing on the reel has to be included in the length?

As far as I understand it, the end of the Glendinning system (connection to house circuit) corresponds to the power inlet on your boat. There needs to be a breaker within 10 ft of that. The advantage is that connection is permanent and inside the vessel, out of the weather.
The length of the cord itself is not relevant to that.
BD

 

[stubones99]

Any of you catch that he coated the contacts with a dielectric grease? The definition of dielectric is to NOT be a conductor. It may seal out some water, but it won't reduce any resistance in the contacts. It should have a conductive grease, if possible.

 

[Comodave]

As far as I understand it, the end of the Glendinning system (connection to house circuit) corresponds to the power inlet on your boat. There needs to be a breaker within 10 ft of that. The advantage is that connection is permanent and inside the vessel, out of the weather.
The length of the cord itself is not relevant to that.
BD

That is correct, I assumed that people would understand what I was saying, but alas, I assumed incorrectly...

 

[High Wire]

Any of you catch that he coated the contacts with a dielectric grease? The definition of dielectric is to NOT be a conductor. It may seal out some water, but it won't reduce any resistance in the contacts. It should have a conductive grease, if possible.

I'm going to disagree here. You don't want to use conductive grease on a multi conductor cable plug. It will cause ground faults when current leaks across grease smudges between hot and neutral or hot and ground contacts.