sliding door sticking

[Dr. Rob]

My 1985 Californian 38 has a sliding door on the stbd side of the cabin to access the main salon. It hangs from a simple track via two brackets attached to the top of the door and the bottom simply slides in a channel with a strip of plastic or vinyl in it. There were two shallow blocks of teak on the bottom of the door to act as sliders which became worn and eventually came off. I replaced these with hard plastic sliders. The problem is the door catches and sticks when you try to use the handle. If you take both hands and keep the door level it slides but with one the door rises up and jams- a real problem when closing from the inside especially. Are there simple remedies or better mechanisms now available?

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Welcome aboard. Have you tried cleaning well and applying a spray lubricant?

 

[AlanT]

My 1985 Californian 38 has a sliding door on the stbd side of the cabin to access the main salon. It hangs from a simple track via two brackets attached to the top of the door and the bottom simply slides in a channel with a strip of plastic or vinyl in it. There were two shallow blocks of teak on the bottom of the door to act as sliders which became worn and eventually came off. I replaced these with hard plastic sliders. The problem is the door catches and sticks when you try to use the handle. If you take both hands and keep the door level it slides but with one the door rises up and jams- a real problem when closing from the inside especially. Are there simple remedies or better mechanisms now available?

I recommend Sailkote McLube. It is a spray and goes on dry so it doesn't attract dirt. Its primary use is to lubricate mast tracks (for the mainsail lugs). I have used it on our large sliding windows and sliding pilothouse doors with great success. It lasts a few months.
~Alan

 

[Pack Mule]

We keep a bar of gulf wax around for just that . It’s cheap.

 

[SteveK]

Did the door roll freely before you replaced the bottom pieces?
sounds like the material now has too much friction.

Expecting the answer to be the latter I suggest removal of the bottom pieces (guides) and clamping together, then drilling holes every inch or so down the cut to reduce the contact point.

 

[Dr. Rob]

Thanks , will try the suggestions.

 

[Rufus]

If you get to the point of replacing tracks and sliders, these sites have some potential solutions.

https://www.professionalplastics.co...ontent/downloads/TivarUHMWProfiles-Guides.pdf

https://8020.net/search/?q=pad


This stuff below sells by the inch. I bought several feet and then modified the track profile on my friend's table saw to fit my exact needs. It's slick, tough and if easy to modify. I was previously using narrow strips of UHMW cut from a large sheet, but it eventually cracks around the mounting screw holes. This stuff screws down to the deck channel at the sides, so the extruded track has no weak areas. My doors have bottom rollers, but I believe this material would work well as a slider pad as well. (Link above).

https://8020.net/40-6808.html

 

[Lou_tribal]

The way you describe your issue looks more like a problem of jiggling of the door than anything else.
If moving it with two hands vs one hand allow to keep it levelled, that means there is some room between the rail and the sliders.
You mentioned you replaced the teak pieces by plastic ones, maybe these are a bit too small?

Hint: to slide smoothly a rag with beeswax rubbed on the rail does miracle (you can find beeswax in any hardware store, used for furnitures).

L

 

[catalinajack]

I have two sliding doors that are constructed similarly and bind in the same manner. Lube them as others have suggested. Sailkote works well as does spray Teflon. Relube as needed. No exotic and expensive solutions needed.

 

[Pete Meisinger]

I replaced my sliders with recessed wheels. It was a fairly big job but definitely worth it.

pete

 

[FF]

Hint: to slide smoothly a rag with beeswax rubbed on the rail does miracle (you can find beeswax in any hardware store, used for furnitures).

For lower cost bees wax use a toilet bowl base seal , keep it in a plastic bag anywhere cool.

Even on a sail boat , one seal is enough bees wax for a decade.

 

[AlanT]

Hint: to slide smoothly a rag with beeswax rubbed on the rail does miracle (you can find beeswax in any hardware store, used for furnitures).

For lower cost bees wax use a toilet bowl base seal , keep it in a plastic bag anywhere cool.

Even on a sail boat , one seal is enough bees wax for a decade.

One disadvantage of any wax or wet solution on a horizontal surface at floor level is the liklehood that it will attract grit etc. thus impairing the desired result. Sailkote spray (I have no pecuniary interest in this!) on the other hand goes on dry and leaves no stickiness, so it does not attract dirt and it is likely worth trying that first.

I don't remember the cost, but my spray can has lasted my last 3 boats.

~A

 

[koliver]

FWIW
Years ago (2007 ish) I had a similar problem on my Port side door. The original configuration was steel rollers on a square brass rod.
I found some Stainless track at a household patio door supplier, with stainless rollers to match. Flawless performance ever since, in fact the only issue has been that in a seaway I need to latch the door so it doesn't slide back and forth and bang into the door frame at the closed position and the stopper at the open position. I have the spares for the Starboard side, when needed, but so far, that side is still performing properly.