Shrink-Wrapping Painted Hull

[RossWilson]

Hey Everyone: It's been awhile since I logged in. Perhaps that means I've been learning? Well, I have another question of the experts.


My Mainship 34T has enjoyed inside heated storage every winter since she was launched. But because of my wife's passing earlier this year, I didn't feel like cruising my usual area of Georgian Bay. So, I brought her down through the Trent Severn Waterway to my home harbour of Oakville on Lake Ontario. And there are no inside storage facilities available for me here. Thus, it will be her first winter on-the-hard, winterized and shrink-wrapped.



I've read that Awlcraft 2000 painted hulls should not be wrapped as the seal can cause the paint to bubble. Obviously, I'd prefer to avoid having to re-paint the hull next year. How critical is it to ensure that every square inch of the hull is exposed and not under wraps?


The guy just completed the task. It's generally a good fit, but I'd asked him to minimize the hull coverage and end the wrap at the rub-rail. But it runs past the rail by an inch or three in various areas, and drops severely at the aft sections of the hull at the transom. So, there's a fair amount of paint coverage.


I've yet to figure out how to post a photo, otherwise I'd post a couple. Can anyone offer advice in this regard? Thanks in advance for any comments.

 

[Comodave]

Yes, I would not want the shrink wrap lying close along the paint, it can definitely cause it to bubble. I had it happen on a previous boat that had been painted with 2 part paint but it wasn’t caused by bubble wrap just some plastic lying on a deck area that got wet. So I would definitely get the bubble wrap off the paint. Or at least get some spacer to hold the bubble wrap off the paint. Just use a spacer that won’t damage the paint. You want some air to circulate under the bubble wrap.

 

[RossWilson]

Thanks, Dave. I just spoke with a fibreglass specialist who said basically what you said. He suggested I prop the plastic away from the hull, maybe using the edge of the swim platform for support.

 

[Comodave]

I am not sure what you can put between the hull and the shrink, but cardboard will probably hold moisture and the same with carpet. Maybe something plastic that only contacts the hull in small places so it won’t trap water. What that might be is another question.

 

[RossWilson]

Yes, I understand. I'd prefer not to trap moisture between the support and the painted hull. That could still damage the paint. That's why I thought about using the non-painted swim platform to support the foam or whatever I use to hold the wrap away from the paint and allow air to flow behind it.


I just spoke with the wrapper, who claims to have been doing this job for 29 years. He said he's wrapped million dollar yachts and has never had an issue. I hope he's not lying to me.

 

[danderer]

I had a painted 34T. The yard used plastic standoffs spaced every 2-3 feet around the bottom of the shrink-wrap. That prevented any contact between the paint and the wrap. Can't say they were necessary but I never had any problems with this approach.

 

[Bacchus]

Ross
My painted MS 34HT gets shrink wrap every year without issue or special treatment. The year yr I shipped my boat is was wrapped from the waterline up and taped at the bottom to prevent "balooning" during transit. It sat all winter that way w/o any issues.
That said I have heard about the issue. I would think any non porous spacer placed around the bottom edge to allow air circulation under the wrap would work and actually beneficial to let it breath under the cover.
Small dia fenders, 12-18 pieces of pvc pipe, etc should allow sufficient air circulation. I dont think there us a concern where the wrap has air space between it and the hull paint.

 

[RossWilson]

I had a painted 34T. The yard used plastic standoffs spaced every 2-3 feet around the bottom of the shrink-wrap. That prevented any contact between the paint and the wrap. Can't say they were necessary but I never had any problems with this approach.

Thanks, Danderer. I presume the "stand-offs" were non-porous and small so as to minimize contact with the paint. Are they a special purpose item? Any suggestions where I find find them, like a marine supply?

 

[RossWilson]

Ross
My painted MS 34HT gets shrink wrap every year without issue or special treatment. The year yr I shipped my boat is was wrapped from the waterline up and taped at the bottom to prevent "balooning" during transit. It sat all winter that way w/o any issues.
That said I have heard about the issue. I would think any non porous spacer placed around the bottom edge to allow air circulation under the wrap would work and actually beneficial to let it breath under the cover.
Small dia fenders, 12-18 pieces of pvc pipe, etc should allow sufficient air circulation. I dont think there us a concern where the wrap has air space between it and the hull paint.

Thanks, Don. Your knowledge and experience, as usual, are much appreciated. Perhaps a wander through a home improvement store might present some ideas as to what to use as a spacer.

 

[Comodave]

Just because he has been doing it for a long time doesn’t mean it can’t happen. And of course if it were to happen it would happen on my boat... Then who will fix it, him???

I would put in some spacers just in case. They won’t hurt and they may save your paint job.

 

[Bacchus]

Perhaps a wander through a home improvement store might present some ideas as to what to use as a spacer.

Why wouldn't a bunch of plastic soda or water bottles work. Recycling at work

 

[Chrisjs]

We always wrapped from deck up, never on the awlgrip hull. I always figured the reason it is recommended that way was because of friction rubbing between the paint surface and the plastic wrap as the wrap moves (even slightly) in the wind). For the same reason, if you decide to place spacer soda bottles between the hull and the wrap I would be careful they do not themselves abrade the paint.

 

[Jeff F]

I've used strips cut from rigid foam insulation. The area of concern is the cinch strap where water and dirt can be trapped against the hull. A few spacer will prevent that. Something like 1" thick, 1-2" wide and 6-12" long. The cinch strap should be tight enough to hold them in place, just push them up under the cover. The strips are placed vertically every few feet.

I wouldn't be too concerned in any case. The problems I've seen were on boats that stayed wrapped for several years and had leaks in the cover that allowed water to drain off the deck behind the cover. For a professional wrap used one winter that's not usually a problem.

 

[Comodave]

I had paint damage in a couple of months with plastic on a deck but it did have some water sitting on it. So it can happen fast but it probably isn’t likely to happen, I was just especially lucky...

 

[DDW]

I had Awlgrip bubble on the mast in about 1 month. I'd wrapped stretch film around about a 1' section. I'd ask your shrink wrap guy to guarantee a new paint job if there is bubbling or lifting and see just how confident he is. For standoffs, I'd use something that minimizes the area of the standoff that is in contact with the paint. You need it to dry, and that requires a short distance from the edge of whatever is touching to the middle.

 

[Comodave]

I had Awlgrip bubble on the mast in about 1 month. I'd wrapped stretch film around about a 1' section. I'd ask your shrink wrap guy to guarantee a new paint job if there is bubbling or lifting and see just how confident he is. For standoffs, I'd use something that minimizes the area of the standoff that is in contact with the paint. You need it to dry, and that requires a short distance from the edge of whatever is touching to the middle.

+1. My point exactly.

 

[RossWilson]

Just because he has been doing it for a long time doesn’t mean it can’t happen. And of course if it were to happen it would happen on my boat... Then who will fix it, him???

I would put in some spacers just in case. They won’t hurt and they may save your paint job.

Good advice, Dave. I'll check with my local marine supply store to see if they happen to have a specific product to do the job. Or I'll improvise. Thanks again.

 

[Comodave]

Let us know what you do. Ounce of prevention...

 

[RossWilson]

Why wouldn't a bunch of plastic soda or water bottles work. Recycling at work

Yes, I suppose you're right, Don. Anything rigid that won't absorb moisture should do the trick.

 

[RossWilson]

We always wrapped from deck up, never on the awlgrip hull. I always figured the reason it is recommended that way was because of friction rubbing between the paint surface and the plastic wrap as the wrap moves (even slightly) in the wind). For the same reason, if you decide to place spacer soda bottles between the hull and the wrap I would be careful they do not themselves abrade the paint.

Good point, Chris. Thanks.

 

[RossWilson]

I've used strips cut from rigid foam insulation. The area of concern is the cinch strap where water and dirt can be trapped against the hull. A few spacer will prevent that. Something like 1" thick, 1-2" wide and 6-12" long. The cinch strap should be tight enough to hold them in place, just push them up under the cover. The strips are placed vertically every few feet.

I wouldn't be too concerned in any case. The problems I've seen were on boats that stayed wrapped for several years and had leaks in the cover that allowed water to drain off the deck behind the cover. For a professional wrap used one winter that's not usually a problem.

Thanks, Jeff. Good advice.

 

[RossWilson]

Let us know what you do. Ounce of prevention...

Thanks again, Dave. Will do.

 

[RossWilson]

After a lot of questions and consultation about the shrink-wrap with my y'all and my fibreglass/paint guy, I've decided to just install some closed-cell foam under the taut wrap-lines on the anti-fouling paint to raise the lines away from the paint. He said there's sufficient space beneath the plastic at the rub-rail to hold it far enough away.



The only area in question is where the wrap cuts down at an angle from the rail at the transom so as to enclose the stern and swim platform. He said it shouldn't be a problem there since, with the installation of a few closed-cell foam blocks, the only place the wrap lines will rub the hull is at the corners. With the additional blocks there, he claims there's sufficient air gap beneath the wrap. And since I'm having him wrap custom-made stainless-steel guards on each corner (where the hull is prone to damage), any line damage there will be hidden.


He suggested that any minor damage to the paint could be buffed out in the spring. Hopefully, I can "buff" them out by hand with Awlcare as Awlgrip recommends. Thoughts?

 

[danderer]

Thanks, Danderer. I presume the "stand-offs" were non-porous and small so as to minimize contact with the paint. Are they a special purpose item? Any suggestions where I find find them, like a marine supply?

As I recall they were like mini 3-legged stools -- maybe 3-4" high.

I would imagine that the exact item isn't too important. Others have suggested some inventive and cheap ideas that I suspect would be fine.

 

[Comodave]

I would have a problem with someone saying we will just buff out any damage. I guess I would want them to say lets protect it so we don’t have any damage. Why take any chances, what if it doesn’t buff out? I would protect it and then not worry about it. My 2 cents...

 

[Olebird]

See the Awlgrip web site on the subject - they say don't.

 

[RossWilson]

As I recall they were like mini 3-legged stools -- maybe 3-4" high.

I would imagine that the exact item isn't too important. Others have suggested some inventive and cheap ideas that I suspect would be fine.

My Internet search for the illusive spacer resulted in me finding exactly as described - a small tripod. The only problem is that the supplier is in the UK. Even Amazon doesn't carry such an item.

 

[RossWilson]

I would have a problem with someone saying we will just buff out any damage. I guess I would want them to say lets protect it so we don’t have any damage. Why take any chances, what if it doesn’t buff out? I would protect it and then not worry about it. My 2 cents...

Thanks, Dave. I agree. All I can do is reduce the likelihood of any damage occurring. It's unfortunate that I was unable to find an inside heated facility on the Canadian side of Lake Ontario that had a space. This will be the first winter outdoors for her. Next year, I may take her back to Georgian Bay.

 

[RossWilson]

See the Awlgrip web site on the subject - they say don't.

I do not plan to power-buff the hull. As you said, Awlgrip advises against such practice. But hopefully, a hand-buffing will remove the numerous bumper marks, along with a long white line from the paddle of an anonymous kayak paddler while my boat was tied at the dock. Should I attempt to remove the marks now before it gets too cold, using Awlwash and Awlcare?

 

[Olebird]

I had mine detailed by a pro last October when I bought it. Was amazed how well it turned out. Did not try to touch up the few dings it had picked up - most on the bow. They power buffed it. The transom graphics had started peeling so we took it off completely and after 15 years in Florida sun, the paint under the graphics had not fadded and looks brand new. Hate to put it back on!!