Scrape or sand before varnish

[Brisyboy]

I have some cap rail that needs taking back to raw wood and starting over (unfortunately) Last time i did this I used a sander but I thought this time I might use a scraper - not a spatula type but one with a tungsten blade which is pulled backwards, or towards you.

My question relates to wood removal. Will the scraper take off more wood than sanding? - I`m sure I`ll have to sand after the scraper so it gets sanded either way..

Thanks

 

[Ka_sea_ta]

I just did this, I used a good quality paint and varnish chemical stripper, This removed 90% of the existing varnish, sanding it with progressively finer grit prepped it for varnishing.

 

[Landfall]

I use a heat gun and a putty knife, then sand before applying varnish. Once you get the temp and time figured out, easy and quick.

 

[AZ2Loop]

Brisyboy, I think it depends on the condition of the varnish you are removing. I just did this a few months ago as well. I used your method of a scraper and then sanding. The scraper was very fast and held at the correct angle (got the hang of that in about 30 seconds) it made for fast work. I took mine down to raw wood, then sanded. Turned out nice. All good suggestions above, and you will quickly figure out what works best for the condition of your wood.

 

[High Wire]

We just did this on old Cetol. Heat gun and scraper then palm sander worked for us. With my wife and I working together we could move right along. Took about a half day for both handrail and caprail on one side with breaks of course. The job was easier that expected. We used citrus based stripper from HD on the window frames. Wood loss was also minimal.

 

[Cigatoo]

Paint scraper and heat gun. You will be surprised how quickly you can get the job done using the scraper below.
https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-Premiu...ocphy=9002191&hvtargid=pla-359843689367&psc=1

 

[Bmarler]

i love those bahco scrapers. there is a teardrop shape insert for them too. i use those and another carbide scraper with a longer blade. close to three inches long i think. i feel like you get very good control of how much material they take off after you practice with it a bit.
i'm looking at a similar project on my boat. there was mention of using stripper in previous posts, will that damage hardened paint like awlgrip?
the finish i need to remove is very thick. not just varnish. not sure what it is but it seems like it's going to be a chore.

 

[tiltrider1]

Sometimes it’s faster to sand. Sometimes the scraper is the only tool that fits the space. There is no right or wrong answer. In other words it depends.

A bit about scrapers. It’s the heat not the blade that really counts. Now a good quality 90 degree harden blade will certainly work better than a crap blade. Having different sizes of blades also makes things easier. I use a blade called the “Super Scraper”. It comes in several sizes from .5 inch to 3 inch.

One thing about heat. It is possible to scorch the teak so keep the heat gun moving.

My wife on the other hand prefers chemical strippers. She just doesn’t have the ability to keep from scorching the teak and her hands can’t take the vibrations of the sander.

Finally, will the tungsten scraper take off too much wood. The answer is not necessary but it can act like a mini planner if you use too much pressure.

 

[dhays]

Last week I watched a guy scrape his cap rails to bare wood. He was using a heat gun and paint scraper. It seemed to go pretty quickly.

 

[Cigatoo]

Last week I watched a guy scrape his cap rails to bare wood. He was using a heat gun and paint scraper. It seemed to go pretty quickly.

Watching someone else is the best

 

[Flatswing]

Heat gun & pull scraper. Keep a file handy and reshaped with a few strokes every few minutes. Works a treat and doesn’t gouge. If the teak is weathered, you can get to new wood with just the scraper on flat surfaces but work with the grain once the varnish is removed.