Rudder seals

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Offshore 54

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2017
Messages
16
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Chapter Three
Vessel Make
Offshore 54
I have an Offshore 54, 1999. Both my rudder seals leaked on a high speed trial last week. Tried searching but could not find any info. I can pretty much fix anything on the boat but I have never done rudder seals. Is it a big deal? Do the rudders need to be removed? Thanks for any thoughts.
 
Can you post a photo of the stuffing box? Some of them are almost like the prop shaft stuffing box and are pretty easy to repack. It may just need adjustment. You might try tightening it first and then if it still leaks repack it.
 
Usually the "seal" is simply another stuffing box which needs some mtce. and adjusting at intervals.

If you have decent access take a good look at it and see what type of stuffing box it is. The big hex nut type with a locking nut or the oval plate type using two studs with nuts to lock the pressure plate.



Post a couple of good photos.
 
If you have ever repacked a stuffing box before, it's simple to do the rudder seal. You needn't haul the boat, but it can alarm those who haven't seen it done before with the boat in the water.
 
Simple on some boats, not so on others. Access is everything. The process, yes, it is straightforward. On my boat, I can't even see the adjusting nuts. I rue the day when my rudder packing must be replaced. Maybe I will just get a bigger bilge pump.
If you have ever repacked a stuffing box before, it's simple to do the rudder seal. You needn't haul the boat, but it can alarm those who haven't seen it done before with the boat in the water.
 
Pic of rudder

Here are a few pics of the above water part, port side. Never had to do any rudder seal work so flying a bit blind here....
 

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The upper bearing on our OA looks similar, but does not have that clamp around what appears to be a rubber boot. Neither does it have a fiberglass sheath over the shaft, which makes me curious as to its purpose (perhaps a stand pipe with a seal on top? . Anyway, on our OA a conventional stuffing box would be at the base of the shaft (below that yellow tool box and what appears to be removable flooring) .
 
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Simple on some boats, not so on others. Access is everything. The process, yes, it is straightforward. On my boat, I can't even see the adjusting nuts. I rue the day when my rudder packing must be replaced. Maybe I will just get a bigger bilge pump.

Or buy a new boat???
 
Take it apart?

I don't know where the leak was coming from, I was up on the FB driving. But what seems odd to me is if you look at the picture you can see what looks like rust from the leak.
I will have a look under the flooring to see if there is any kind of stuffing box under there.
 
I had poor access to my rudder seals and the packing glands were very hard to tighten. I converted to PSS rudder seals and I've been happy with the change.
 
I don't know where the leak was coming from, I was up on the FB driving. But what seems odd to me is if you look at the picture you can see what looks like rust from the leak.
I will have a look under the flooring to see if there is any kind of stuffing box under there.

Yes, again that sheath over the rudder shaft suggests it might hold seawater. If so, unconventional (versus old school) but would be clever to move the seal to the top. Is there a dealer or yard that services the Offshore brand...they would know....
 
I am not familiar with that style so I can’t say for sure what to do. Maybe see what the T bolt clamps does, try tightening it a bit and see what happens. Try just a bit don’t overdo it until you figure out how it works.
 
The surface upon which that clamp arrangement sits is called a rudder table hereabouts. The rudder shaft is held in place vertically (so it doesn't fall out the bottom of the boat) by something clamped or bolted to the shaft which in turn rides on the table or a bearing on the table. That bronze collar with the hex nut appears to the that securing device. Maybe that plastic is a slippery bearing surface. Anyway, you get the idea that you may not want to loosen that bronze bolt. The plastic disk and clamp affair, it is new to me but as suggested by Dave above, may also be a part of a shaft sealing arrangement. We clearly have not yet heard from the expert on your boat yet. It makes a lot of sense to me to have the tube encasing the saft got all the way to the hull and have the packing up higher and under a lot less pressure. I think you will find that to be the case when you look under that flooring. It would be interesting to check to see if your rudder table is higher than your waterline (I bet it is) so that only under certain circumstances you get water through there. I recently got to thinking about my own situation with this small 30-footer. So I opened up the conventional packing seal (above the waterline) to find that there was no, and likely never had been, ANY packing in there. I cleaned up the bit of corrosion in the area from earlier leaks over the years, applied silicone grease to the now shiny metal, and called it good. I am sure this seal occasionally leaked like when I come down off plane and a mountain of water attacks the transom contributing to unwanted dampness in the laz. Maybe you have that situation.
 
Offshore 54;
Why not just go to the source?
Offshore Yachts, in Newport Beach CA, were the first to introduce these boats back in the late 80s.

I’d reach out to the first one on the contact list followed by Luke Brown in Lauderdale. Put th questiion as you did here and include those pictures.
Contact

I’d be very surprised if they didn’t offer up some good lessons and pictures or drawings.
 
OP here. I have changed both lip seals, port took 3 hours, starboard took 13 hours had to drill out the 1/2” SS pin on the starboard. The “tube” is just a tube, filled to the waterline with seawater. There is a simple lip seal at the top of the tube inside the delrin assembly under the bronze blocks. The bottom block holds the rudder pin and the top block turns the rudder. It’s actually a great design and it it were not for the seized pin it would have been a simple job. Will test at speed next week but I expect it will be fine. As a note, I used a heavy ratchet strap around the entire back of the boat under both rudders to hold them up while I did the work. That worked well.
 
Yup, I very much like that design.
 

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