Retired Life in Mexico

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Belize, Rio Dulce (Guatemala), and Honduras Bay Islands.


When I sailed back home from Panama, I bypassed Belize, back in the late 90's checking in was rather difficult, Port captain offices were inland and involved an inconvenient travel, perhaps that has changed.
Rio Dulce could be an alternative?

Hippocampus on this forum has done several Salty Dawgs. He originally wanted a bluewater boat such as a Nordhavn to continue that style of cruising but under power. He is a font of information.

I assembled this distance chart a couple years ago to nudge my other half into cruising. I don't have distances to Rio/Bay Islands because I would not approach from the south as you did due to security concerns. From memory, I believe Rio Dulce is around 800nms south of Isla Mujeres so a fair distance, and it's fairly desolate cruising. Definitely a notch-above going to the Bahamas in many ways.

Rio Dulce is definitely on my radar. If I were a diver, Bay Islands would be a must-see. Belize supposedly has some cruiser-friendly marinas.

Peter


Ensenada to Florida Chart.jpg
 
Hippocampus on this forum has done several Salty Dawgs. He originally wanted a bluewater boat such as a Nordhavn to continue that style of cruising but under power. He is a font of information.

I assembled this distance chart a couple years ago to nudge my other half into cruising. I don't have distances to Rio/Bay Islands because I would not approach from the south as you did due to security concerns. From memory, I believe Rio Dulce is around 800nms south of Isla Mujeres so a fair distance, and it's fairly desolate cruising. Definitely a notch-above going to the Bahamas in many ways.

Rio Dulce is definitely on my radar. If I were a diver, Bay Islands would be a must-see. Belize supposedly has some cruiser-friendly marinas.

Peter


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Isla Mujeres to Rio Dulce comes in at about 350 nm.
 
Maybe I’m the outlier, but I get bored quickly without more adventurous things to do such as traveling to see the sights, etc. Even the Sea of Cortez after a week anchoring out and I got stir crazy. The heat can do that to me too. I definitely couldn’t spend a winter there, great tacos and margaritas not withstanding!
==============================
Spent a hot, humid, unbearable summer in Nuevo Vallarta waiting out the hurricane season.
The time in the marina was unbearable, bought a second hand window a/c and made the difference, during the day on the beach!!!
Will program trips to the inland higher altitudes, there is no end to how much you can travel and explore, all in a budget using their modern bus systems, staying in budget but very pleasant hotels, and endless Mexican cooking.
Plus the welcome cool temperatures.

Bought an oversized backpack and there we went.

The interior will give you a total different view of Mexico compared to coastal that over time has become more of a tourist destination for gringos with money!
My 2 cents observation and wort every one.

I had dental work as well visited emergency care and hospitals, felt standards of care high and prices low.(I am a physician and can evaluate)
And as a bonus, personal attention superb.

Don't recall getting sick to my stomach ever and have sampled the "street vendors" offerings, delicious food and so inexpensive.

Restaurants, no problems, just use judgment and check out the premises as I do in the States.

In a couple of occasions, before committing had a visual check of the cooking area, and decided against, most cruising nets will offer recommendations.

Water, in marinas check what type of purification they use, no problems, if doubts, have delivered to my slip big purified water containers, no problems.

If at anchor, of course my water maker.

Traveling to foreign countries and cultures is a bonus to us, boaters,
 
Hippocampus on this forum has done several Salty Dawgs. He originally wanted a bluewater boat such as a Nordhavn to continue that style of cruising but under power. He is a font of information.

I assembled this distance chart a couple years ago to nudge my other half into cruising. I don't have distances to Rio/Bay Islands because I would not approach from the south as you did due to security concerns. From memory, I believe Rio Dulce is around 800nms south of Isla Mujeres so a fair distance, and it's fairly desolate cruising. Definitely a notch-above going to the Bahamas in many ways.

Rio Dulce is definitely on my radar. If I were a diver, Bay Islands would be a must-see. Belize supposedly has some cruiser-friendly marinas.

Peter

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interesting choices.

need to look again

those nasty trade winds

this was my way back
 

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Routine dental work in Mexico is very inexpensive. We paid something like $50 for cleaning when we were down there. The dentists spoke good English and catered to Americans and Canadians. They took Xrays using the same equipment that the dentist at home uses.

My wife tends to be the more adventurous eater and she did get sick in Oaxaca eating street food. Our tour guide/driver (very helpful, excellent English) took her to a doctor. The visit and meds cost well under $100usd, maybe under $50.

We kept our US health insurance in case we had more complex medical problems that we weren’t comfortable/able to deal with in Mexico.
 
I loved Isla Holbox. They had a few marinas there but I was visiting on land. Swimming with the whale sharks was a highlight too. No cars.

“Isla Holbox is an island north of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, in Quintana Roo State. It's part of the Yum Balam Nature Reserve and separated from the mainland by the Yalahau Lagoon, which is home to flamingos and pelicans. The car-free island, between the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico, is rich in marine life such as sea turtles and whale sharks. Highlights include laid-back Holbox Village and Punta Coco Beach. ”
 
Those in Ensenada looking for something fun and exciting to do this weekend might look into the 'Rosarito to Ensenada Fun Bike Ride' taking place this Saturday. It's for all levels of cyclists. They even have a 'sweeper' vehicle that'll pick up those that've had enough and take you to the finish line (the party) where there's live music, dancing, cheap massages, tacos, fruit cups, drinks.....
Here are some stock pics
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One other note on medical care: when I went (1 year in MX and Central America on motorcycle) I got an emergency travel insurance policy. It was very inexpensive. Basically if there's an emergency that can't be treated locally they will medevac you back the the US. This was 20 years a go mind you but I'd guess similar policies exist now.

Second that basic health care in MX is vastly cheaper and quite good. Many SoCal families go down to Tijuana for basic medical care for that reason.
 
Great thread - thanks to all contributors! :thumb:
 
Tonight in ensenada

It was about 80 today.
 

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Those in Ensenada looking for something fun and exciting to do this weekend might look into the 'Rosarito to Ensenada Fun Bike Ride' taking place this Saturday. It's for all levels of cyclists. They even have a 'sweeper' vehicle that'll pick up those that've had enough and take you to the finish line (the party) where there's live music, dancing, cheap massages, tacos, fruit cups, drinks.....
Here are some stock pics
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Ha!! My cruising partner rode the 9th edition of this event 34 years ago. Had to hitch a ride back to San Diego since her car was stolen during the ride....
She went back down the next day and stole it back from a couple of guys at a laundromat. True story.
She still whines about it because she lost her favorite volleyball in the deal.
 
AZ, NM and TX have outstanding Mexican cuisine plus it comes without Montezuma's revenge!

Tex-Mex is good but it isn’t real Mex. Came down by boat in 2003, cruised for 8 years from the Sea of Cortes to Hualtaco. Purchased a condo Nuevo Vallarta and sped 7 months a year there. Haven’t experienced Montezuma’s revenge in 17 years. Most likely a combination of knowing how to choose a restaurant or street food vendor and having you body acclimate to the local bacteria.
 
Great stuff. Some serious questions though if I may, and I know they may sound silly to you….

How do you get medical and dental care

I studied Spanish from third grade through a year of college. That was over forty years ago for me. I can understand a bit still if spoken slowly enough, but certainly am not close to conversational anymore. Do I need to be.

Can you drink the water. Seriously.

Came to Mexico by boat in 2003 and cruised the entire pacific coast for 8 years. Ended up buying a condo in Nuevo Vallarta and spend 7 or 8 months living there. Found Medical and dental services to both be quite good and find the cost of both to be about 1/3 of the cost in the US. Water’s ok where we live but when we travel we stick to bottled water. By the way all commercial ice is made from purified water so enjoy you cold drink.
 
Not only is medical care far less expensive down here, but you can usually get an appointment with a specialist in a week or less. And the doctor will give you his mobile phone number in case you have any questions! Plan on paying cash for everything.

On the food front, one of the cardinal rules is to only go to place where you see Mexicans eating. That food cart that never has a line... probably a reason. Do the same with restaurants and you can't go wrong.

Another reason the food is generally delicious is that EVERTHING is made from scratch. You won't see anybody opening a can for a sauce down here.
 
mexico

Kevin...Great to hear you are enjoying Ensenada. My wife and I have made the trip south to La Paz 6 times in the last 9 years. We really like the stop in Ensenada to check in and start to get weather reports for the difficult part of the journey. Ensenada is wonderful and a really nice spot to stop and maybe stay for a time. But your sign in says you are either in La Paz or leaving for there soon. Be very conscious of weather on the outside of Baja. Very few places to tuck in and wait. La Paz will be quite a different "Mexico" experience than Ensenada. Bien Viaje!
 
So...it seems security is not an issue on the coast (assuming you keep your eyes open as you would anywhere)?

Or where to avoid?
 
Water here in the Hotel Coral Marina has a warning not to drink or cook with it, Kevin and I both have RO water makers and the harbor water seems to be quite clean enough to use for making water.

The harbor seems to have lots of open berths, they fit me right in on relatively short notice, but then again I am a relatively short boat (30') and they put me in a 35' berth. There are a whole lot less large berths and the larger boats don't seem to move much.
 
So...it seems security is not an issue on the coast (assuming you keep your eyes open as you would anywhere)?

Or where to avoid?

We didn’t find it to be an issue last winter. Marinas typically have a couple guys checking what people are doing when they enter the marina. We never felt any security issues while at anchor. I know of more security problems at Seattle-area marinas than Mexican marinas. The sketchiest-seeming place we tied up from Valdez to Barra de Navidad was the San Diego Police Dock.
 
Maybe I’m the outlier, but I get bored quickly without more adventurous things to do such as traveling to see the sights, etc. Even the Sea of Cortez after a week anchoring out and I got stir crazy. The heat can do that to me too. I definitely couldn’t spend a winter there, great tacos and margaritas not withstanding!

You're not along Bowball. I just can't be happy relaxing, socializing, having a docktail at 5:00, etc. I need more purpose, whether it is something really small like tinkering and making something better or helping someone out in need. I can only take so many pleasure cruises too. But if some cargo needed to boated or some marine construction project was at hand or a boat needed delivery, I am on the boating aspect all day long like sticky is on Gorilla tape. That is not a discredit to others preferences. Its just mine.
 
So...it seems security is not an issue on the coast (assuming you keep your eyes open as you would anywhere)?

Or where to avoid?

Even the locals here warn against leaving your skiff and motor in the water overnight in anchorages, and against leaving your boat unattended in anchorages. It didn't used to be a problem but it seems (like everywhere else) crime is on the uptick.

Marinas seem to be the safer places to do those two activities, my skiff has been floating next to my boat for a few days now. This harbor is very attentive and has pretty darned good security including cameras.
 
Even the locals here warn against leaving your skiff and motor in the water overnight in anchorages, and against leaving your boat unattended in anchorages. It didn't used to be a problem but it seems (like everywhere else) crime is on the uptick.

Marinas seem to be the safer places to do those two activities, my skiff has been floating next to my boat for a few days now. This harbor is very attentive and has pretty darned good security including cameras.

We never left the dinghy in the water overnight at anchor on the mainland side, and when we left the boat, we locked the doors. In the Sea of Cortez, we left the dinghy in the water for weeks at a time and rarely locked the doors when we went exploring.
 
We didn’t find it to be an issue last winter. Marinas typically have a couple guys checking what people are doing when they enter the marina. We never felt any security issues while at anchor. I know of more security problems at Seattle-area marinas than Mexican marinas. The sketchiest-seeming place we tied up from Valdez to Barra de Navidad was the San Diego Police Dock.

Hah! Don't get me started...

We keep our boat in America's Cup Harbor. I've called the Harbor Police three times in the past six months (not sure I've called the SD Police ever). One was a guy who had a woman (girlfriend/wife) trapped in a porta-potty screaming at her & her yelling for someone to call the cops. Another a poor guy living on a derelict moored boat flagged me down as he was having a stroke. And the weekend before last while anchored out, a couple on a $1-2m yacht with four kids aboard was having a huge fight; the guy ended up in the water yelling for help, and someone (maybe one of the kids) triggered an SOS beacon on the stern of the yacht. WTF.

We do tend to underestimate known dangers (driving a car, US crime rates) and overestimate unknown dangers (MX narcos). Do be careful in MX though - the situation in TJ is not great. When I traveled through MX extensively in 1999-2000 the only unsafe part of the country was Mexico City. Now that's the safest place to be & the little towns and villages I loved so much are often controlled by the narcos. I suspect one could still travel there safely but I'd not take my family there now as I would have in the past. I'm sure marinas & anchoring is fine almost anywhere though. Just keep your ears and eyes open & ask around.
 
On my way! We're leaving Orcas Island tomorrow morning for San Diego. Leaving San Diego on the 30th for La Paz. We're in Marina de La Paz. Let's grab a cold drink!
 
You're not along Bowball. I just can't be happy relaxing, socializing, having a docktail at 5:00, etc. I need more purpose, whether it is something really small like tinkering and making something better or helping someone out in need. I can only take so many pleasure cruises too. But if some cargo needed to boated or some marine construction project was at hand or a boat needed delivery, I am on the boating aspect all day long like sticky is on Gorilla tape. That is not a discredit to others preferences. Its just mine.

Sounds like you just need an older, bigger, more run down boat :)
 
You're not along Bowball. I just can't be happy relaxing, socializing, having a docktail at 5:00, etc. I need more purpose, whether it is something really small like tinkering and making something better or helping someone out in need. I can only take so many pleasure cruises too. But if some cargo needed to boated or some marine construction project was at hand or a boat needed delivery, I am on the boating aspect all day long like sticky is on Gorilla tape. That is not a discredit to others preferences. Its just mine.

I’m somewhat similar. We really enjoyed our year of cruising with no responsibilities other than the boat, but we couldn’t do it forever. We’re in our early 30s and going cruising felt a bit self-indulgent. I imagine it’s quite different in your 50s or 60s after a lifetime of contributing.

Contrary to Bowball, we found the Sea of Cortez offered more off the boat than the PNW, or at least Northern BC and Alaska. In the Sea, there were hikes at every anchorage, swimming, and the weather made us want to get out and do things off the boat. In the PNW, we spend a lot more time curled up under blankets reading.
 
On my way! We're leaving Orcas Island tomorrow morning for San Diego. Leaving San Diego on the 30th for La Paz. We're in Marina de La Paz. Let's grab a cold drink!
That sounds great! Please post frequent updates along the way.
 
I have been cruising from Puerta Vallarta to San Carlos for 11 yrs in my 52 foot morortacht. I have been in Loreto / Puerto Escondido for the last 4 yrs. Wonderful.
 
I was never a fan of flour tortillas.....until I spent some time in northern Baja. The tortillas de harina (flour vs corn/maiz) here are excellent. They bear very little resemblance to the flour tortillas north of the border. Here they are a bit chewy and elastic, and usually fairly thin. When they heat them, they puff-up into big pillows that immediately collapse.

They’re also great to have with a meal instead of dinner rolls.

529F6C5B-C4CE-4DE9-A65F-060502273CD9.jpg

When going to this place just south of Rosarito, the flour tortillas is what I look forward to the most. And I’m a corn tortilla guy.

Don’t judge, I’m burning off all that food tomorrow.
 
You're not along Bowball. I just can't be happy relaxing, socializing, having a docktail at 5:00, etc. I need more purpose, whether it is something really small like tinkering and making something better or helping someone out in need. I can only take so many pleasure cruises too. But if some cargo needed to boated or some marine construction project was at hand or a boat needed delivery, I am on the boating aspect all day long like sticky is on Gorilla tape. That is not a discredit to others preferences. Its just mine.

Life on a boat is always working on something. :)
 

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