Removing port and starboard running lights and name plate on 1990 grand banks

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Cynsherm

Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2021
Messages
6
Hello-
We are re-naming our newly acquired 36’ 1990
Grand Banks. I’m trying to take off the port and starboard side name plates that also house the running lights. I can’t see a way of removing these teak plates to strip and varnish them at home without cutting the electrical wires to the lights! Seems like a very poor design, which is surprising given its a Grand Banks. Am I missing something? Anyone have an easier- less labor intensive way?
Thank you for your help!
 
Welcome aboard. GBs are a great boat but almost all of the builders don’t make allowances to remove the running lights. We are replacing the running lights on our Formula. Formula at least gave a lot of extra wire so you can cut it and splice in the new light. We had a previous boat that the wiring was so short you couldn’t even lift the light up much less have enough wire to make a splice. I would replace the entire lights with new LED ones and make sure your connectors are adhesive lined heat shrink ones to seal up the connections. Good luck.
 
Thank you for confirming that I’m not missing something and that cutting the wire to lights is the only way! At least we currently have enough wire for this change.
 
Thank you for confirming that I’m not missing something and that cutting the wire to lights is the only way! At least we currently have enough wire for this change.

That is good that you have enough wire to splice it. If you don’t already have a good ratcheting crimp tool buy one now, you will be using it endlessly.
 
31 years ago the manufacturer correctly predicted that those lights wouldn't need to be removed for a very long time and chose not to put in a spade or bullet connector that would corrode to death in less time.
 
Do you have access to the back side? It’s possible that the bulb access is from the back. Maybe the boards are bolted down from the back too.
 
Thanks for that info. I wish they would have designed the wooden placard with a cut in it to go around the wire.
 
Post a picture of the nameboards and lights. I had a 1984 GB 36 and the lights were removable without cutting wires. I now have a 1996 GB 46 and the lights are also removable without cutting wires.
 
I would just replace them with new LED fixtures. Do it one time and then most likely never have to mess with them again.
 
I appreciate your help. There really was no way. I already clipped the wires and am knee deep in stripping the boards now. Thank you!!!
 
Running lights are removable in our GB

Hi
We have a 1999 GB42 MY and we have taken the boards off to refinish and twice to re letter the name as we didn’t like our first choice of font 14 years ago. Our running lights slide on a vertical plate that is screwed to the board. There is a small lever under the light that reduces the tension so it can lift. The cover and lens come off in a bayonet mount and then the two wires are inserted into small fittings on the light fixture with two small screws. The wire threads backwards as you pull the name plate off. It is handy to be able to remove them as we have found the varnish weathers worst on the edges so easier refinish when off. Our friends with a 1994 GB 36 also have the same original system. If yours isn’t like this perhaps it was modified and ‘hard wired’ by someone else. However you reconnect plan on taking the boards of every 3-5 years—depends on covers and if in a boat houses or in an open slip—etc etc
Good luck!
 
That was good information. I am considering starting a custom sign shop. I don’t have any prior experience, but I'm actually interested in it. I have a day job, so I was considering starting it as a shop gradually and now I decided to do some work after my regular workday. I have prior experience in doing custom wooden nameplates and a few signboard works for my friend's shop. One of my cousins is a professional signboard maker, working in a signboard manufacturing company and I have studied the basics from him. What are your thoughts about starting this line of work?
 
Follow the wires there are small terminal blocks on each side. Mine were in side bridge front, to left of sliding access hatch, and same location other side.

I did mine in gold leaf. Go to grandbankschoices, and dig down in there about three years ago.
 
I put LED bulbs inside the existing fixtures. Marinbeam units, in red and green respectively (along with a white one for the stern light).

I seem to recall the AquaSignal 41 fixture had screw or spade terminals inside for the wires. Remove the outer housing and the wires are accessible. Detach the wires and thread them out of the fixture and back out the name boards.

The wires leading to the ones on our flybridge are accessible from behind through the holes for the speakers. But there's no connector in there, just some in-line splices.
 
Unfortunately putting LED bulbs inside an existing light may make that light uncertified. The lights are manufactured and certified with the specific bulb in them. Replacing the specified bulb with an LED may change the displayed light. If you have an accident the insurance investigator will find the LED bulb and make a deal out of it. I just replace the entire light with a LED light so it is proper and certified. I just replaced the running lights on our new boat with LED fixtures.
 
Unfortunately putting LED bulbs inside an existing light may make that light uncertified. The lights are manufactured and certified with the specific bulb in them. Replacing the specified bulb with an LED may change the displayed light. If you have an accident the insurance investigator will find the LED bulb and make a deal out of it. I just replace the entire light with a LED light so it is proper and certified. I just replaced the running lights on our new boat with LED fixtures.

That may well be true. But I'm happy with the results of putting the Bay15D replacements in there.

https://store.marinebeam.com/bay15d-replacement-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-series-40-50-55/
 

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