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Old 01-21-2018, 12:27 PM   #21
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I don't see how that tracks. The Danfoss compressor runs on DC (sorta) anyway, even when you provide AC to the power supply. Unless they meant the power supply (which converts AC when present to DC) is physically part of the Danfoss compressor? and the reason you needed to replace the Danfoss is because the converter isn't working?

-Chris
My original fridge was a Norcold DE828.

Yours may operate differently, but that model was actually AC only, with its own inverter to get the AC when DC only was present.

When it failed (a relief, as it turned out) I went to the local Marine Fridge guru, "Freddy Freezer" in North Vancouver. He had enough experience with Marine fridges that he immediately knew the solution. My present fridge is the old box, plates, doors, but the built in power supplies and the AC units have gone. In their place is a 2.7 amp (when running) Danfoss unit.

Now, instead of a draw measured at over 10 amps, that required a second set of house batteries, I was able to add a freezer (another 3 amp Danfoss) and lose the excess weight and expense of that second house bank.

Replacing the AC/DC with DC only cost more than a Costco AC fridge, but way less than a new Norcold but I continue to save on battery replacements.
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Old 01-21-2018, 03:33 PM   #22
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Thanks to the OP for posting. Our marina currently sits about 3 hours away and has endured sub freezing temperatures last week the likes of which have not been seen in many years. Marina update emails indicate broken water pipes on almost every dock. If there are signs that the fridge stopped working this will be my first assumption.

Ranger....it was the control unit not the compressor Nova Cool suggested replacing.
Troubleshooting started with them sending me an LED testing harness (at no charge) and a pretty extensive troubleshooting phone call after I received the LED. I cannot say enough how nice and helpful the Nova Kool guys were. He also told me to unplug the AC plug under the the fridge even though I had turned off the breaker.
We were preparing for an extended cruise and hemorrhaging $$$ on other items so when they suggested do nothing and run on 12v only, I stopped asking questions...LOL
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Old 01-21-2018, 05:38 PM   #23
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Mule....
common sense should tell me the answer but is that 2.5 amps each? or total ?

how long does it take them to come down to temp from a "cold" (warm) start ?

i think i just came close to hijacking my first thread, lol

......... dammit, i said hijacking, now im on a list somewhere....


Each one pulls 2.5 amps @12 volts or 30 Watts. I generally shut down the 2 refrigerators at bed time, often running the Genset for hot water and battery charge for awhile before. Come AM my house bank is @ 80%+ then solar takes over.

Going from warm to cold seems pretty quick empty or lightly loaded.
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Old 01-21-2018, 05:46 PM   #24
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This beats the ice cube trick. It's magnetic and sticks to my fridge door.



https://smile.amazon.com/AcuRite-009...cuRite+00986A2
I had an Engel branded unit with battery powered remote in the freezer. There was some tiff between the sender and display units, they would cease talking to each other and require constant reintroduction. Ditched it and got a wired sender unit instead.
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Old 01-21-2018, 06:07 PM   #25
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The AC units by Frost King really look good, I guess the most efficient units out there. Even after using an inverter. Pretty pricey though.
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Old 01-21-2018, 07:40 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by ranger42c View Post
I don't see how that tracks. The Danfoss compressor runs on DC (sorta) anyway, even when you provide AC to the power supply. Unless they meant the power supply (which converts AC when present to DC) is physically part of the Danfoss compressor? and the reason you needed to replace the Danfoss is because the converter isn't working?

-Chris
There is a power supply that converts 120 volts AC to 12 volts DC if there is AC power or just passes the 12 volt battery power through if there is no 120 volts AC present. The boat's 12 volt battery power and the 120 volt power connect to the power supply.

Two wires carry 12 volts DC from the power supply to the Danfoss control unit. There's a short wiring harness and socket that connects to the compressor.

I think there was a misunderstanding somewhere along the line. If it runs on 12 volts but not 120 volts, the problem is with the power supply.
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Old 01-22-2018, 06:53 AM   #27
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There is a power supply that converts 120 volts AC to 12 volts DC if there is AC power or just passes the 12 volt battery power through if there is no 120 volts AC present. The boat's 12 volt battery power and the 120 volt power connect to the power supply.

Two wires carry 12 volts DC from the power supply to the Danfoss control unit. There's a short wiring harness and socket that connects to the compressor.

I think there was a misunderstanding somewhere along the line. If it runs on 12 volts but not 120 volts, the problem is with the power supply.
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Originally Posted by Steveg353 View Post
Ranger....it was the control unit not the compressor Nova Cool suggested replacing.
Troubleshooting started with them sending me an LED testing harness (at no charge) and a pretty extensive troubleshooting phone call after I received the LED. I cannot say enough how nice and helpful the Nova Kool guys were. He also told me to unplug the AC plug under the the fridge even though I had turned off the breaker.

Got it, Steve, that sounds more better.

Good to hear the NovaKool folks were so helpful. I've spoken with them, but only to order replacement door seals, very friendly encounter.

-Chris
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