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Old 10-19-2022, 06:19 PM   #1
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Propeller shaft wiper shoe replacement

I have a galvanic corrosion preventer shaft wiper on my Mainship 30. it has a 1.5inch shaft. i also have a aluminum collar anode which disappears more frequently than i like (but we have done the whole marina check, galvanic isolator etc etc).
the carbon shoe on the wiper has worn away or fallen out and i want a new shoe.
I see some bronze looking shoe online :
https://store.sandiegomarine.com/pro...ers-15339.html

BUT i find it hard to cough up $54.00 for a shoe. any ideas on another source of a shoe replace conductive shoe on the shaft. the wiper arm looks fine.

and I know some of you will just say forget about it and put two $!5 "zincs" collars on the shaft.
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Old 10-20-2022, 07:12 AM   #2
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That shoe is just a piece of oilite bronze bushing cut in half and fitted with a mounting stud. If you don’t want to pay 50 bucks, just make it yourself.
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Old 10-20-2022, 04:34 PM   #3
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thanks. very helpful . i was wondering what the shoe was made of. now i just have to find a short length of oilite bearing that is a little more than the 1 1/2 shaft diameter
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Old 10-21-2022, 08:19 PM   #4
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Take a look at most of the 1/2 pipe shaft wipers.
THe actual contact is somewhat smaller than the shaft diameter so the wiper rides on top and the edges contact the shaft for better wiping, cleaning the contact area and better electrical contact.
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Old 10-21-2022, 11:39 PM   #5
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I use a brush with brass bristles. Brush lightly rubs the shaft and wire is soldered to the bristles.
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Old 10-22-2022, 07:13 PM   #6
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Mine actually has a motor brush soldered to the arm.
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Old 10-22-2022, 07:24 PM   #7
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Mine actually has a motor brush soldered to the arm.
Mine as wel.

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Old 10-23-2022, 08:56 AM   #8
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I'm not convinced those shaft wipers do much, at least on my boat. I tested the boat without them this season and the shaft anode wear was proportional to the anode wear elsewhere on the boat, just like last year. If you have a rubber coupler between the transmission and the shaft I suppose they would be a good idea, I don't have a rubber coupler.
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Old 10-23-2022, 09:01 AM   #9
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Saw this strap shown on the SENTOA forum:

https://static1.squarespace.com/stat...Strap+indd.pdf

Another option anyway.
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Old 10-23-2022, 11:09 AM   #10
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Our boat has the Electra-Gard system that relies on the shaft wipers. I keep them and the shafts clean with commutator paper.
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Old 10-23-2022, 11:23 AM   #11
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i made mine using the shaft zincs I took off las haul out. The zinc is soft and conductive.

May not be the best, but the price was right as well as good conductivity.
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Old 10-23-2022, 04:38 PM   #12
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I'm not convinced those shaft wipers do much, at least on my boat. I tested the boat without them this season and the shaft anode wear was proportional to the anode wear elsewhere on the boat, just like last year. If you have a rubber coupler between the transmission and the shaft I suppose they would be a good idea, I don't have a rubber coupler.

Agreed -- I guess I don't understand why anyone needs a wiper. If the shaft is solidly mounted to the gear, then it's grounded. If there's a Lovejoy* coupling there, then a piece of #8 wire from one side to the other will ground the shaft far more solidly than a wiper.


Or am I missing something?



*https://www.lovejoy-inc.com/products...ype-couplings/


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Old 10-24-2022, 07:50 PM   #13
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Agreed -- I guess I don't understand why anyone needs a wiper. If the shaft is solidly mounted to the gear, then it's grounded. If there's a Lovejoy* coupling there, then a piece of #8 wire from one side to the other will ground the shaft far more solidly than a wiper.


Or am I missing something?



*https://www.lovejoy-inc.com/products...ype-couplings/


Jim

It may or may not be. THis has been discussed many times by some expert people. The internal parts are often isolated by the oil once the gear is not running. In fact even while running the oil film that separates the metal parts may insulate enough to compromise any grounding effect.

To me it is not worth the chance. The zincs and/or brush are far cheaper than a new prop or shaft.
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Old 10-24-2022, 08:17 PM   #14
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Agreed -- I guess I don't understand why anyone needs a wiper. If the shaft is solidly mounted to the gear, then it's grounded. If there's a Lovejoy* coupling there, then a piece of #8 wire from one side to the other will ground the shaft far more solidly than a wiper.


Or am I missing something?



*https://www.lovejoy-inc.com/products...ype-couplings/


Jim
I am guessing eventually most will know I have my own opinion on bonding.

Why have a wiper when the engine block is already bonded?

IMO, you are correct, shaft zincs are already protecting the shaft and prop. But like many other redundant things why not have a wiper that can be visually inspected and which create a circuit from the zinc to shaft/prop and back to zinc. Many times a bonding wire is found broken, but since you are not supposed to daisy chain, wire in series, only one item is out of the circuit back to zinc.
So to depend on the electrical flow to go through multiple bolted connections, any of which may have failed to avoid a brushed shaft is not sound policy. That is if you want it all bonded.
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Old 10-25-2022, 10:39 AM   #15
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I bought a smaller than the shaft oilite bushing from McMaster Carr for 5 bucks. Am drilling and splitting it in half to mount on the wiper arm as a replacement for the carbon shoe that fell off and disappeared or disappeared and fell off. I also have a aluminum collar anode on the shaft.
belt and suspenders
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Old 10-28-2022, 04:52 PM   #16
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Unless the shaft brush uses silver slip rings, it doesn't work, none of the carbon or bronze half pipe versions meet the 1 ohm or less cathodic protection requirement. If you are intent on protecting the shaft an drop with a hull anode, you'd need to invest in the slip ring version. See https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/b...on-prevention/ and https://www.boatcorrosion.com/product-slip-rings.html for additional details.

The transmission is anything but a sub one ohm medium, the oiled gears and bearings will provide high resistance at best, if any continuity at all.

If you shaft has room for an anode (or two), it's really not necessary.
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Old 10-28-2022, 05:35 PM   #17
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SDA, Hold that thought, I'll return to that story later.
Steve, I read the linked article twice and cannot find a conclusion to the mismatched wear on hull anodes.
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Old 10-28-2022, 06:43 PM   #18
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Hopefully Steve sees and replies to your point.

If there are two anodes supposedly sharing the protection job and one is eaten away with the other barely touched then the barely touched one is not connected or at least the connection has degraded severely and it not doing anything.

I've had this on my own boat. I have a large steel keel and maintain 6 anodes, 3 per side, on it. One year one of the anodes was barely touched.

I had someone else install them the previous haulout. I checked with my meter and as I suspected, the continuity was POOR so the anode was just along for the ride.

I replaced the other 5 and cleaned the daylights out of the mounting faces, keel and anode, especially on the failing one.

Next haulout all 6 were eaten about equally.

I talked to the guy and he just thought it was a good anode. I showed him the use of the ohm meter as a check for continuity. I think he got it but I never asked him to replace my anodes again.

I was using hand wire brushes and on my drill but at Steve's caution some while ago I now use just sandpaper or similar. Just as long as the mounting surfaces are bright and clean. Scotchbrite also?
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Old 10-29-2022, 11:58 AM   #19
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Steve, I read the linked article twice and cannot find a conclusion to the mismatched wear on hull anodes.
My apologies, I will fix that, somehow that part got left our when it was posted to the site.

The answer is, the near pristine anode's bonding wire was loose, which increased the resistance, which rendered that anode ineffective.
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Old 10-29-2022, 11:58 AM   #20
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Hopefully Steve sees and replies to your point.

If there are two anodes supposedly sharing the protection job and one is eaten away with the other barely touched then the barely touched one is not connected or at least the connection has degraded severely and it not doing anything.

I've had this on my own boat. I have a large steel keel and maintain 6 anodes, 3 per side, on it. One year one of the anodes was barely touched.

I had someone else install them the previous haulout. I checked with my meter and as I suspected, the continuity was POOR so the anode was just along for the ride.

I replaced the other 5 and cleaned the daylights out of the mounting faces, keel and anode, especially on the failing one.

Next haulout all 6 were eaten about equally.

I talked to the guy and he just thought it was a good anode. I showed him the use of the ohm meter as a check for continuity. I think he got it but I never asked him to replace my anodes again.

I was using hand wire brushes and on my drill but at Steve's caution some while ago I now use just sandpaper or similar. Just as long as the mounting surfaces are bright and clean. Scotchbrite also?
ScotchBrite is perfect for this application.
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