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Old 02-23-2020, 06:38 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by mahal View Post
The rudder will not be removed. I was hoping that the yard was going to remove the shaft as part of the cutlass bearing replacement job which would make my job of replacing the stuffing box childís play, but theyíre not.

I am hoping the coupling puller I ordered will work since Iím worried of damaging the transmission flange if I use it to pull the coupling. If it doesnít come off with the tool, I will just give in to the yard doing it at 5 hours per side at $135 per hour.
Damage to the flange is a very real danger, be very careful to snug up bolts equally, then draw them up equally against the spacer in small increments.
Iíve run across a fair number of damaged transmission side couplings too, so check that face while youíve got it open.
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Old 02-23-2020, 06:51 PM   #22
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I prefer split couplings too. But I like flexible couplings even more.

I replaced the split coupling with the Federal Flexible Coupling and it's not available split.

Boating compromises.
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Old 02-23-2020, 07:49 PM   #23
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Not really sanding it much, just cleaning it up.
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Old 02-24-2020, 05:30 PM   #24
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This is something I'm working on with my boat right now as well. I've tried all manner of pulling the coupler off the shaft with no success. Heat, several standard pullers, a custom puller made out of steel plate, etc... It would NOT move.

I finally discovered mine has a 1/2" steel pin driven in 90 degrees off from the keyway, through the coupler and the stainless steel shaft up near the flange. Under the paint and grease I thought it was just a bump in the casting of the coupler. After burning all the paint off, I finally realized that it was a steel pin. Now I'm working on getting the pin out, which I've only been able to move 1/8" with a brass drift and a hammer.

The lesson there is to really examine the thing and make sure nothing else is holding on before engaging the pullers. I thought I had understood the thing thoroughly but missed the pin.
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Old 02-24-2020, 05:42 PM   #25
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Sounds like you need to press the pin out instead of hammering. Put something smaller than the pin on one side and a socket on the other side so the pin can be pushed into the socket. Then try a big C clamp and push the smaller thing into the pin and have the socket on the opposite side to let the pin come out into the socket. You may have to grind a curve on the socket to help keep it from sliding off when you tighten the C clamp. Before you start use your best rust solvent like PB Blaster on it several times. Also heat it up and let it cool several times to help break it free. Good luck.
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Old 02-24-2020, 06:45 PM   #26
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Sounds like you need to press the pin out instead of hammering. Put something smaller than the pin on one side and a socket on the other side so the pin can be pushed into the socket. Then try a big C clamp and push the smaller thing into the pin and have the socket on the opposite side to let the pin come out into the socket. You may have to grind a curve on the socket to help keep it from sliding off when you tighten the C clamp. Before you start use your best rust solvent like PB Blaster on it several times. Also heat it up and let it cool several times to help break it free. Good luck.
Yes, I'm working on a press setup now. I might try my biggest C clamp first and see if that has enough push. Otherwise, I've designed a custom 'portable press' using a bottle jack that will be useful for a number of jobs.

Thankfully I can get the pin started by using the brass drift and hammer, so I've got the pin down in a hole on one side about 1/8" so push in items won't be slipping off.

In relation to the OP, I really just wanted to point out to pay really close attention to the design of the coupler, I have missed recognizing that the little bump in it was not just a part of the casting for a long time and even other people that looked at it missed it. I've wasted a lot of time on it until realizing that the pin exists.
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Old 02-24-2020, 07:05 PM   #27
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Greetings,
Mr. s. "I've wasted a lot of time on it..." I disagree. You've learned something and that is NEVER a waste of time. Just file it in the old brain cell and hope you remember it for the "next" time.


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Old 02-24-2020, 08:36 PM   #28
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Donít beat yourself up too badly about it. I doubt that many of us here would have thought to look for a pin, I know I would not have. At least you found the problem. Now the thought is if you are able to press it out, how about getting it back in??? Maybe a bolt that will be easier to get out next time.
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Old 02-24-2020, 08:49 PM   #29
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Another tip if the coupler won't slide on. Piece of wooden dowel. Use a hacksaw to cut a slot in it. Put a piece of sandpaper in the slot and mount it in an electric drill. Spin it inside the coupler to remove any grubbies....

The trouble with that puller is sometimes you can't get the shaft to slide back far enough to get the puller mounted. Center bolt is too long.

Good luck !!

Re-read the post.. If the yard is doing the cutlass bearings they will have to pull the props. No reason you can't pull the shaft too and get the coupling to fit..
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Old 02-24-2020, 10:38 PM   #30
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This approached worked on 20+ year old 2” dia shafts. Used a 10ton porto-power with a pancake cylinder placed between a 1/2 “ steel plate. The plate was bolted to the shaft flange with long bolts to accommodate the thickness of the pancake cylinder, applied pressure and heated the coupler with a propane torch. Both shafts came free with minimal effort. All prior efforts with pullers etc didn’t work. Also I did not want to risk using the trans flange bolt method for fear of bending the $500 Alison trans flanges.
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Old 02-24-2020, 10:54 PM   #31
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Nothing beats hydraulics.
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Old 02-28-2020, 04:29 PM   #32
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I had a solid coupler and would not come off no matter how hard I tried, various pullers and heat did not move it. Had to cut it off. Used a split coupler to replace it. When it first went on there was a little more vibration than with the solid coupler. This was fixed by fixed by tightening the split coupler slowly at each bolt and rotating. It took some doing but got it sorted.
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Old 02-28-2020, 07:29 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkW View Post
I had a solid coupler and would not come off no matter how hard I tried, various pullers and heat did not move it. Had to cut it off. Used a split coupler to replace it. When it first went on there was a little more vibration than with the solid coupler. This was fixed by fixed by tightening the split coupler slowly at each bolt and rotating. It took some doing but got it sorted.
Did you take it and the shaft to a machine shop?
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Old 02-28-2020, 07:37 PM   #34
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Doing my first DIY stuffing box replacement at next haul out. I understand that the toughest part is the removal of the shaft coupling which I bought a Buck Algonquin flange puller for. But my question is on reinstalling the coupling. Are there any tricks like lube with soap or does it just slide in? Thanks for your help.
What type of coupler is it, straight bore, tapered, split. All work and are installed differently. Among other things, if tapered you should install without key, scribe and then reinstall with key to ensure there is no binding.

Never, ever use grease or any viscous lube on a coupling bore, a light coat of light lube, light oil or 6-56 is all that;s needed to prevent binding (not soap, it is hygroscopic and can promote rust).

More on couplings here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/w...9FINAL-PBB.pdf
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Old 02-28-2020, 07:43 PM   #35
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If using a solid coupler with a morse taper, you should lap both the male taper and female cone surfaces with 2 coarseness of valve grinding compound medium/fine to marry the surfaces perfectly. Use prussian blue to id low spots and to assure a complete secure fit. Clean completely prior to dry fitting mark then install key and assemble with NO LUBE. The strength of the connection is the fine married fit of the tapers. This is the same process to seat a prop onto the shaft.
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Old 02-28-2020, 07:43 PM   #36
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I put my new shaft coupling on today. I had to press the old one off so I was dreading putting the new one on. I bought a split coupler and when I went to put it on, it took one whack with the hammer and it went right up to the line. Amazing. I was prepared to fight with it all day.
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Old 02-28-2020, 10:34 PM   #37
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Thanks all. The coupling is solid/straight bore. Haul-out is in a couple of weeks. I will report back with the good, the bad and the ugly.
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Old 02-29-2020, 12:13 AM   #38
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Did you take it and the shaft to a machine shop?
yes the shaft was checked by machine shop, also worked on the prop at the same time, seems to me to make sense while I had it off. All is well now so a good outcome..
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Old 02-29-2020, 09:06 PM   #39
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Thanks all. The coupling is solid/straight bore. Haul-out is in a couple of weeks. I will report back with the good, the bad and the ugly.
OK, in that case it's a interference fit. Most importantly, make sure key, keway, bore and pilot bushing (all detailed in the article I shared) are clean, rust free and in good shape, no dings, dents etc. You should have a set screw or screws that retain the coupling, the shaft should be dimpled to accept them. You may have a clevis or roll pin.

You can warm up the coupling to expand it, and as someone noted,m cool the shaft end with ice, but that's rarely necessary.

(In Taiwan)
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Old 03-11-2020, 09:03 PM   #40
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The tool worked. I helped it by removing the set screws and spraying the holes with PB Blaster 2 weeks prior and again a week before the job which I think helped a lot.

The tool
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Pressing the coupling backyard mechanic style
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