Perkins 6.354

[werners]

Perkins parts

Try TAD Diesel in VA. They are very knowledgeable and seem to have everything for older Perkins diesels

 

[Gypsyjon]

Online Catalog

Marine Exhaust Systems of Alabama.

 

[Gypsyjon]

Perkins 6-354 parts are easy to find.

Online Catalog

 

[gunho1]

Marine Exhaust Systems of Alabama

2 thumbs up. Replaced 2 6.354 manifolds through them.

 

[Mtcabsales]

Hi All-
Lots of great info here for us Perkins engine owner!
The two 6 cyl. Perkins in my 1979 Californian LRC that have been essentially trouble free since I bought it five yrs ago, with one minor exception, the port engine started overheating on one cruise, so I shut it down and made my way back on one. The diagnosis was a clogged heat exchanger, which was fixed by boiling and rodding (sp?) it out. I immediately had the same done to the starboard engine 'just because'.
I was told when I bought the boat to take very good care of her because Perkins parts are few and far between, so this post strikes a few chords for me.
Question:
Although I have every stinkin' piece of paper ever generated in the construction and out-fitting of this boat, (every manual, instruction guide, etc, very fortunate) I have not figured out exactly which Perkin's I have!
Admittedly, I am not an engine head, but I thought that I could have done so by now in case I, like Seachaser, need to track down some parts.
From all of the posts on this thread, I'm sure one of you can direct me in the right direction!
Another question-from Seachaser's pictures, we see cracks in both the manifold and the elbow; what caused these (along with the corrosion)? Freeze, saltwater?
Mine is in the Sacramento Delta freshwater, so when I do venture to the SF Bay, just a trip home rinses her out nicely.

 

[Seachaser]

Mtcabsales,
Thanks for your comment! In regards to the cracks, I can suspect they're secondary to age and possibly overheating. The boat has always lived in S. Fla so I doubt it ever had any issues with freezing. As of late, I've been unable to locate anything, excluding the elbow, for under 2K. If I don't locate something within the next 96 hrs I may just bite the bullet and give it a go with a fabricator. I'll keep everyone posted.

 

[STB]

Mycabsales,

What are your engine serial numbers?

 

[Mtcabsales]

gkesden-Not sure, but seeing tomorrow is Saturday, I will head to the harbor and check it out.
Did I mention that I am not an engine guy?
Where do I look!

 

[STB]

Right "in front of"(actually, to port) of the injector pump on the block.

 

[Mtcabsales]

I found this # on the Starboard side of the block-37115400/8

 

[STB]

Hey Mtcabsales,

Thats the part number for the blocl itself. Look for the injector pump. The thing with all the little tubes coming out. Look at the base where it bolts to the block.

The base is triangular. It is bolted to a slightly larger, rounder plate. That plate is in turn bolted to the block. The serial number is right where that plate meets the block, on the block.

Part numbers are cast in when the part is made, so raised.

Serial numbers are stamped, so recessed.

It may begin with a TC followed by 5 numbers or somebother two letters followed by 5 numbers.

 

[Mtcabsales]

Thanks gkesden-
Found it-TC20651U544167E

 

[STB]

Hi Mtcabsales,

You've got the same engine as do -- literally the same build number and year as my port engine. It is a naturally aspirated, standard rotation 6.354 made in Britian in 1978.

Cheers!
-Greg

 

[Mtcabsales]

Right on!
Thanks for the info Greg!

 

[rochepoint]

Here is the breakdown according to my book.........

 

[Mtcabsales]

Thanks Mike!!

 

[CaptTom]

Here is the breakdown according to my book.........

What does your book say about country code "VC"?

In the references I've seen, there are only one-character country codes, except for the suffix "R" which means re-manufactured. Everything I've seen says "V" means Pakistan, but nothing about what the "C" means.

 

[rochepoint]

What does your book say about country code "VC"?

In the references I've seen, there are only one-character country codes, except for the suffix "R" which means re-manufactured. Everything I've seen says "V" means Pakistan, but nothing about what the "C" means.

Sorry, it doesn't show a "VC".
What is the complete serial number?

 

[STB]

I'll need the whole serial number. On an older engine, a C after the country code would have meant that it was built with a turbo compensator for high altitude ("thin air") use. To my knowledge, this was usually done for engines intended for trucks in Mexico City. Maybe Pakistan, with its mountains, had a similar situation.

On later engines, again to my knowledge, this was usually incorporated into the model number, e.g. TX.

 

[CaptTom]

Sorry, it doesn't show a "VC".
What is the complete serial number?

TU70025VC57398H (Port)
TU70025VC57396H (Stbd)

 

[STB]

That's a curious number. My first take is a T6.3544, compensated for altitude, and made in Pakistan in 1981.

I can't imagine why a boat engine would be compensated. If that were an HC vs a VC it would be China's country code.

 

[rochepoint]

That's a curious number. My first take is a T6.3544, compensated for altitude, and made in Pakistan in 1981.

I can't imagine why a boat engine would be compensated. If that were an HC vs a VC it would be China's country code.

Thats what I figured out as well...............

 

[CaptTom]

That's a curious number. My first take is a T6.3544, compensated for altitude, and made in Pakistan in 1981.

I can't imagine why a boat engine would be compensated. If that were an HC vs a VC it would be China's country code.

Yes, they're T6.354.4's. The boat was built in Florida and spent its life at or pretty close to sea level.

Was it common in 1982 for US distributors or builders to import engines from Pakistan to the US? The boat was repowered in 1982 by the original owner. that's when these were installed. The hull is a 1980.

 

[STB]

Hi CaptTom,

Not that I know of. But, if it was a repower, it could have been an engine of opportunity from a piece of land equipment that was marinized by the owner.

 

[Irish Rambler]

If you just want an exhaust manifold then go to a Massey Ferguson agricultural dealer but virtually everyone uses an all in one manifold/heat exchanger which I personally would recommend for an effective, neater, simpler, solution
These are still available in production direct from the manufacturers E.J. Bowman who are the OE suppliers of marinization parts for many types of marine engines.
Check them out at ejbowman.co.uk. for the best prices and they're happy to ship anywhere in the world.

 

[Kit_L]

Echoing Irish Rambler's advice, I got replacement heat exchanger parts for my 6.3544 from Bowman's in the UK, too: good service, and reasonable postage. Sending photos of the needed parts speeds things up immensely, too, I found.

 

[Timetraveler]

I have the same boat.

The first thing I replaced was exhaust manifold and the elbow and the small 90 degree thing on the side of the manifold.
Need to meet up someday. Would like to see it.

 

[CaptTom]

The first thing I replaced was exhaust manifold and the elbow and the small 90 degree thing on the side of the manifold.
Need to meet up someday. Would like to see it.

I met a guy at some outport in Canada, and when he heard I have Perkins T6.345's he insisted I come over and check out the engines on the fishing boat he'd just bought. He'd had a local shop fabricate stainless risers and elbows and was quite proud of how it came out. I have to say, they came out nice. I should have gotten his buddy's name in case I ever need some.

 

[Seachaser]

UPDATE w/ Perkins 6.354 manifold (nat)
I wish I had better news, but unfortunately I'm back to square one with the realization that locating a magical unicorn is perhaps a bit easier than a reasonably priced manifold.
As of late I've yet to find a standard natural manifold so I took the gamble with the turbo design. Yeah, we all know the one. At first glance everything looked reasonable and spacing was exact. I drove down to Florida, met with the seller (An old farmer named Daniel with a bad leg, 15 wild dogs and the tongue of a junk-yard bastard), loaded up the part, Spent the night on the boat and with the rising sun, got to work. UGH!!!! Well guess what?!? On the right side and only on the right side, the two diagonal bolt holes are reversed. Long sigh.... Burned money. When I explained to the seller the issue he barked back, telling me to beat it and that he wouldn't entertain any return on investment. I didn't argue and just silently passed judgment.
The left side was exact, center contained 3 bolt holes (I only required 2), but that wasn't an issue, and the right side had two diagonal bolt holes, but they're reversed. Dead in the water. The search shall continue.
So, here's the deal. Repower (Motor only has 1400 hours), or pay $4400.00 for the package from TAD. Wow!!!!! Now, yes, there is another one in Alabama, but they're also around $2800.00. It's just a darn manifold!!!!
But its come to my attention that there may be a third option that will help me get this boat out from port. Apparently perkins blocks are ford blocks and the ford Lehman manifold will in fact mate. Now granted, there will need to be a couple modifications, but it's my understanding, from others that have contended with the same issue and stated that they've had it done before, that the Lehman parts are readily available and will work. Has anyone else ventured into this same idea?
Thanks guys.

 

[Dwk]

" Now, yes, there is another one in Alabama, but they're also around $2800.00. It's just a darn manifold!!!! " Are both manifolds stainless from TAD and the one in Alabama? What parts are included in the "kit" from TAD? I may be faced with the same situation and want to start to try procuring parts now.