Pacific Northwest cruising questions

[llhowj]

Hi,
I would like to cruise from the San Juan Islands area up the British Columbia coastline, stopping in Vancouver along the way. It seems there are two general choices: (1) head through the San Juans into the Gulf Islands and head up that coast to around Nanaimo and cross back over to Vancouver from there or (2) head straight up along the mainland coast by Pt Roberts and just go straight up to Vancouver from there. It appears that this could save a day or two of travel time in each direction just based on distances.



I've read a couple things that suggest option 2 might not be a great idea since it is more exposed, there is lots of commercial traffic, etc, etc.


Curious to hear others' experience, recommendations and if this direct route should be avoided (in late August/early September).


Thanks,
Howard


p.s. The boat is a 47' Grand Banks that can cruise at 15-20 knots, if necessary.

 

[jungpeter]

Hi Howard,

Strictly my personal preference, of course. But I greatly prefer the trip via the San Juan's, thru the Canadian Gulfs, THEN over to Vancouver via Active Pass, Porlier Pass, or further north through Dodd Narrows and around Gabriola Island.

LOTS more to see that way, much smoother, but longer. Depends if you want to actually cruise the area, or simply transit to Vancouver. Direct up the coast via Pt. Roberts is shorter, but very much less scenic. Neither route is traffic-constrained. It's a big ocean.

Regards,

Pete

 

[Nomad Willy]

We usually run north thru the Gulf Is. and north out of Nanaimo on the west side of Georgia Strait. But around Seymour Narrows, through Dent Rapids and north.

 

[soin2la]

...up the British Columbia coastline, stopping in Vancouver along the way.

What is your overall plan? How far north? How much time?
What goes up, must come down; you could do both sides of Georgia Strait, easily.

BTW once you cross the border, you are no longer in the PNW, but on the BC south coast.

 

[Constellation1]

My opinion matches JungPeter's - that is a great route. Do you want to go to Vancouver for a specific reason? It add a lot of time to your trip and the best parts are in the islands and north, again my opinion. Let us know what you decide and have a great journey.

 

[RedRascal]

If you want to island hop and sightsee go with option 1 through the islands. If you are more interested in getting straight to Vancouver then do option 2. You have to cross shipping lanes on either route. The issue is the wind and there is a lot of fetch for a north wind to whip up 6 foot chop pretty easily. Just watch the winds and go with a forecast you're happy with. I was buzzing around in those waters in a 10 foot inflatable back in July, it's all about the wind. Typically you just leave early in the morning and get to where you are going before the afternoon winds pick up. This is assuming your are talking about going in the summer months.

 

[rsn48]

Tip #1: Purchase the cruising guide called Waggoners, best of the cruising guides and the most extensive, especially if you will be coming up to BC frequently. Your local chandlery probably carries it. I purchase a new one roughly once every five years. When I get tips about locations from friends, acquittances and enemies, and from publications like Pacific Yachting, I write them in the appropriate location in Waggoners.

https://waggonerguide.com/

Tip #2: There is a local area that mostly locals know about and use, not many Americans in this area as they all want to anchor in False Creek and visit Vancouver. The area is called Indian Arm which some locals have nick named "Poor Man's Desolation Sound." The Arm is a fjord and the major boating activity is Deep Cove (found in Waggoner). You can anchor in Deep Cove but as you enter anchor to the right of Deep Cove Yacht Club and not the left. The left area is very, very busy, noisy and can be quite crowded. Almost no one anchors to the left, a mystery I will never understand. I lived in Deep Cove for 35 years. You will need to dinghy to the public wharf. Get donuts from "Honeys," (they aren't donuts).

You can also anchor in Bedwell Bay which is almost directly across from Deep Cove and dinghy around the bay and over to Deep Cove. (Waggoner).

Then you can cruise to the end of the Arm and anchor, decent anchorage there. (Waggoner).

You will need to resort to Waggoner or other source to find out how to transit under the Second Narrows bridge (Also called Iron Worker's Memorial Bridge) safely, not a big deal but you do need to know what you are doing due to sometimes fast current due to tide.

Here is a live link to Deep Cove, all the boats, sailboats, power boats, small sailboats with young youth in training to sail, kayakers, paddle boarders, and other varied small craft can make the left side of Deep Cove (referencing coming into DC on your boat) busy, noisy and sometimes not pleasant:

With this video, hit "Play on Youtube" and it will work:

 

[llhowj]

Good questions. I should have been more clear.


My goal was to try to get up to Princess Louisa Inlet. The challenge is created by the fact that we have fewer days than we'd optimally want and guests who will have to meet us someplace along the way a few days into our trip. I won't bore you with the details, but suffice it to say that getting to Vancouver is purely for logistical reasons. I would either pick up our friends who would fly there to join us, or my wife and I would make our way further north and our friends would take a sea plane flight from Vancouver to meet us somewhere (like Sechelt or Egmont, possibly).



Basically, the quicker my wife and I can get north, the more days we then have with our friends to explore Princess Louisa and potentially Howe Sound or Indian Arm on the way back south. That's why I'm asking about the shorter route to Vancouver. If everyone said 'you are in for 6 hours of hell if you take that route', well, I'd have my answer.



So, exploring the Gulf Islands just isn't intended to be part of this trip. I only mention it because it is a potential route to Vancouver.

 

[soin2la]

Well then, I’d suggest following an eastern Georgia Strait route.
Co-coordinating flights with cruising adds another element that weather could interfere with for days. Or not. Either you, your guests, or both could be separated by 20nm for days.

Going up through the Gulf Islands to get to Louisa means crossing Georgia Strait, preferably from Nanaimo or Parksville, to Pender Harbour, a likely plane rendezvous, but you could get stuck on the west side for 1-5 days. Or not.

Pick up your friends in Vancouver, or Richmond/Steveston and proceed. Go where the weather allows.

Again it comes down to how many days you have once you cross the border. Several options for night one with your guests.

You could conceivably cover Burrard Inlet and Howe Sound in a long day, ending at Gibsons or Keats Island. Hop up to Pender Harbour, or Egmont then on to Louisa. A rushed 5 days, then reverse.

Any one of those legs could be hampered by winds and you’ve not said when this all might happen.

The area is called Indian Arm which some locals have nick named "Poor Man's Desolation Sound."

Having logged hundreds of hours and been a long term "local," I've never heard that phrase used and I'm sure the RVYC crowd would raise an eyebrow to that one as well.

 

[koliver]

Hi,


I've read a couple things that suggest option 2 might not be a great idea since it is more exposed, there is lots of commercial traffic, etc, etc.

p.s. The boat is a 47' Grand Banks that can cruise at 15-20 knots, if necessary.

With that boat, you can handle most of the summer weather Georgia Strait can throw at you.
Our 44, limited to 8 knots, can and does handle Georgia Strait and has done so for the past 28 summers. The only time we ever hid from the weather was when one engine had a starter issue, then, heading out of Lasqueti into a strong SE was just not doable.

The long passage to Princess Louisa is roughly 40 miles, so is only worth doing if you have the time to stay there a few days. It is a treasure of beauty and can be hot and calm, but if the weather favours not going, don't.

Floatplane services can find any harbour you can find, so you can have your guests discuss those options with the carriers.

As an RVYC member and a "local" for most of a long lifetime, with hundreds of visits to the Wigwam Inn Outstation, I agree with soin2la's comments.

 

[llhowj]

Thank you

I appreciate the thoughts on this. I think I'm probably over-complicating it by trying to accommodate a schedule and am likely to end up with a mess on my hands if there are any weather (or other) issues.


I'm leaning towards sticking to the San Juans (and maybe the Gulf Islands) to have a more leisurely and less stressful time. We'll try BC next year when we can have schedules a little better sorted with our guests. I'd really like to get all the way up to Desolation Sound.

 

[Bill V]

I appreciate the thoughts on this. I think I'm probably over-complicating it by trying to accommodate a schedule and am likely to end up with a mess on my hands if there are any weather (or other) issues.


I'm leaning towards sticking to the San Juans (and maybe the Gulf Islands) to have a more leisurely and less stressful time. We'll try BC next year when we can have schedules a little better sorted with our guests. I'd really like to get all the way up to Desolation Sound.

Having spent the last 16 years cruising the Gulf Islands (far superior to the San Juan´s IMHO), Desolation Sound and the Broughtons. I can assure you cruising the Gulf Islands is indeed a pleasurable time. Lots to see, great marinas and awesome crabbing. Going to Desolation Sound is a trip that burns it´s share of fuel and IMHO needs a minimum of two weeks (more is better) to fully enjoy the beauty, marinas and the people. It only improves going into the Broughtons. The past two summers have been causing me ¨withdrawals¨ with the closed border.

 

[llhowj]

Thanks Bill,
What are your top 5 'don't miss' tips for the Gulf Islands. I would like to head over that way if we aren't going further north. I've already spent 2 weeks in the San Juans this year, so something new would be fun.


My home port is Bellingham, so I'm thinking I would head over to Sidney to clear in then explore from there (unless you'd advise otherwise).

 

[Constellation1]

Good questions. I should have been more clear.


My goal was to try to get up to Princess Louisa Inlet. The challenge is created by the fact that we have fewer days than we'd optimally want and guests who will have to meet us someplace along the way a few days into our trip. I won't bore you with the details, but suffice it to say that getting to Vancouver is purely for logistical reasons. I would either pick up our friends who would fly there to join us, or my wife and I would make our way further north and our friends would take a sea plane flight from Vancouver to meet us somewhere (like Sechelt or Egmont, possibly).



Basically, the quicker my wife and I can get north, the more days we then have with our friends to explore Princess Louisa and potentially Howe Sound or Indian Arm on the way back south. That's why I'm asking about the shorter route to Vancouver. If everyone said 'you are in for 6 hours of hell if you take that route', well, I'd have my answer.



So, exploring the Gulf Islands just isn't intended to be part of this trip. I only mention it because it is a potential route to Vancouver.

There is seaplane service into Refuge Cove. That would have you in Desolation, and your friends could join you for the best cruising. It’s a great flight too.

 

[rsn48]

Having logged hundreds of hours and been a long term "local," I've never heard that phrase used and I'm sure the RVYC crowd would raise an eyebrow to that one as well.

I agree, what do I know after living in Deep Cove for 35 years... gees'.. what was I thinking.

 

[Bill V]

Thanks Bill,
What are your top 5 'don't miss' tips for the Gulf Islands. I would like to head over that way if we aren't going further north. I've already spent 2 weeks in the San Juans this year, so something new would be fun.


My home port is Bellingham, so I'm thinking I would head over to Sidney to clear in then explore from there (unless you'd advise otherwise).

From Bellingham I always cleared customs at Bedwell Harbor on South Pender Island but verify that it is open and clearing customs is permissible now. With the Vaccine and covid test requirements things are now much different then before covid. Bedwell Harbor Marina is a nice stop over and great facilties.

Sidney is a nice harbor, great docks and there are some great restaurants available there.

Ganges harbor on Salt Spring Island is a favorite of ours as the wife loves the Farmer´s Market on Saturday mornings, I love the ¨sticky buns¨ (best in the Islands) at the local bakery there. Couple of good marinas and restaurants there too. Beautiful scenery, watch for crab pots entering harbor and lots of traffic.

Chemainus on Vancouver Island has become famous for its 53 outdoor gallery of murals. Pretty good docks next to ferry terminal too. Great place to stroll around and sight see before enjoying one of many restaurants.

Montague Harbor Marina on Galiano Island is one of my favorites. Take the Hummingbird pub bus from the marina to the pub in town and it will be a memory. This bus has one purpose, and one purpose only: to take people to and from the secluded Hummingbird Pub. The bus arrives at the marina on the hour every hour from early evening till late evening time.

Thetis Island has two great marinas, the first one you come to is Thetis Island Marina and has a great pub and food. The one farther back is Telegraph Harbor
Marina and the one we prefer generally. Both are very good however.

Silva Bay on Gabriola Island is another favorite of ours. Great pub and scenery. Nice quiet place to relax and enjoy the fresh air.

So many other places that it is really hard to not enjoy your stay in any one place. Enjoy your time there, much less crowded then the San Juans and friendly hospitable people everywhere.

 

[SteveK]

Silva Bay on Gabriola Island is another favorite of ours. Great pub and scenery.

We were there 2020 and the pub has burned down years before. It was a great place to go.

 

[koliver]

Unfortunately, the Silva Bay Pub is gone. A fire a few years ago and the owner unable to rebuild. New owners now, but little progress just yet. Hopefully next year?

 

[soin2la]

I agree, what do I know after living in Deep Cove for 35 years... gees'.. what was I thinking.

My apologies; I was not thinking either.
When you said “some locals” I should have known, by definition that means at least one.

 

[Lepke]

If everyone on board has a Nexus card, you can call in for customs. Otherwise I go thru customs at Nanaimo because it's less crowded.
Commercial traffic shouldn't be an issue. When there are transit lanes, in most areas yachts can operate well outside of those lanes and still be in deep, safe waters. Crossing commercial lanes shouldn't be an issue either. The ships/tugs aren't a line of ships bow to stern. If going against tidal currents, I've found there's usually less current near shore and sometimes gain a knot or two. When going to Alaska, paying attention to the tides and currents can save me a day or more. Depending on your nav program, tidal current speed and direction shows up on your plotter.

 

[Streff]

We have made the trip from Seattle to Vancouver many times, with one stop in Annacortes or in one shot if we leave early enough. The shipping traffic is not an issue at all. If the winds are under 15Kts (and not opposite the current).. it would be an easy comfortable trip in your boat.

 

[dhays]

If the winds are under 15Kts (and not opposite the current).. it would be an easy comfortable trip in your boat.

Two very important “ifs”. Wind against current can be a huge issue . I’ve gotten it wrong a few times and paid the price. Unpleasant ride, and more importantly, an unhappy wife.

 

[soin2la]

Unpleasant ride, and more importantly, an unhappy wife.

Also very important on this voyage; the guests.

 

[Moonfish]

Four years ago we set out for Princess Louisa Inlet with an intended stop in Vancouver. I had always wanted to visit Point Roberts, so we decided to go along the mainland instead of through the Gulf Islands. We ended up getting “stuck” in Pt. Roberts for 3 days by 25-35 kt winds out of the NW. We could have departed, but the older daughter and our cat would not have done well at all in those conditions. Messed up the whole trip as she had a plane to catch.

The moral of the story is two-fold: never get stuck in Pt. Roberts for more than a day or two (it got a little boring), and go through the islands!

 

[Slowmo]

I've cruised the PNW my entire life (60+ years). The run from Anacortes to Vancouver is roughly 70 nautical miles (staying out of the shipping channel). I assume your GB probably has a normal cruise of around 10kn, which equates to at least 7 hr run depending on currents. It depends if you leave on an outgoing or incoming tide. In any case there are many days that are perfectly fine on this stretch of water, but as others have said, wind can come up in the mid-day so if you do it, leave at daybreak. Needless to say there's no protection if it does blow up, and only a few places to hole up in.

One thing you might consider is watching the weather report, starting out and making a final call before you duck behind Alden Bank (I'd go eastside to avoid the shipping lane). If there is any sign of wind you can still cut over towards Saturna island and go the inside route. But the island route adds a minimum of one day and there is no guarantee that you don't get stuck in the islands if it blows up.

 

[moonlight mesa]

I agree. Although we've not been stuck at Point Roberts, one year we couldn't head north out of Newport Oregon until August because of extremely strong northwest winds - many were gale force. We'd wanted to leave in June.

 

[JDCAVE]

If you want to break up your trip on the eastern side of the strait, you could go up the river to spend the night in Steveston and then head out from there. Just be aware that it is best to go up the river about 4 hours after low water otherwise it’s a real slog against current. Also I wouldn’t worry about the shipping lanes. I typically travel in the “eastern” lane. There are no restrictions for recreational traffic while in the lanes beyond the regular collision regulations. Just be aware of the “big boys” while traveling. That traffic is on AIS so easily monitored.

Pender Harbour is 50 nm from Steveston and Desolation Sound is 50 nm from Pender.

Jim

 

[MVDarlin]

You will find all of the areas mentioned overcrowded all summer. If you dont have an anchorage by 10 am you will be hard pressed to find one. I recommend you run up the outside of Vancouver Island to Barkley sound, Clayquot Sound / Tofino. Hot springs, whales, salmon , halibut and eagles. Regular air service from Tofino to Victoria.

 

[EngNate]

Personally, I'd go to Vancouver by air and see it by land on another trip...

 

[JLT]

Great list - been to every one of those places, in some cases many times. I'd add Wallace Island to that list, btw. A nice quiet place (almost all marine parkland and great for walking) with 2 harbors and a lot of interesting history (was the resort home of author David Conover of "Once Upon An Island" fame. Be sure to paint your boat name on a piece of driftwood and leave it on the porch of the old resort General Store! Also, for a quiet & fairly sheltered anchorage within dinghy distance of Telegraph Harbour on Thetis, check out Clam Bay between Thetis & Penelekut (formerly Kuper) Islands.