Oil Change

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superdiver

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2013
Messages
120
Location
Ketchikan
Vessel Name
Nimbus
Vessel Make
Californian
OK, I have searched and cant find a thread on how to most effectively do this. I have Perkins M6.354's and I have that Jabsco cheap oil suction pump and reservoir. To say the least it just doesnt work. This pump... Jabsco Boat Marine Engine Oil Change Pump 3 1 2 Gallon Flat Tank 17860 0012 | eBay

I want to get all the oil out and am looking for an effective way to suction out the oil pans under the engine.

How do you guys get the oil all the way out? I dont have access to a drain on the under side of the pan...

There is this one in town, but does it work any better... Jabsco DIY Oil Change System w Pump 3 5 Gallon Bucket | eBay
 
Glad I didn`t buy the first Jabsco, and they cost twice that here.
The second one looks like a no brand one I bought on Ebay. So slow, and you have to have the pick up tube positioned just right, but it got more out than before when I was using a manual pump.Cost about $65.
My mechanic uses a vacuum pump, I`ve seen it on his service boat,even though I do it myself.
My previous boat had a pump built into the Perkins engine, I grabbed the handle and pumped, lots of oil came out, fast. Wish I had them on the Lehmans.
 
I use a plunger type vacuum pump through the dipstick, the tank is graduated so I have a good indicator of how much I've sucked out. Seems to work OK. I looked up how much oil my engine should need to be full to spec and based on my dipstick I'm always in the ballpark. Seemed to be the only way to do it since my pan doesn't have a drain plug (not that I could get at it if it did). I also have one of the electric pumps with the 3.5 gallon bucket, but in my experience it's a useless thing that's collecting dust in my garage.

I think the trick to a good oil change is to have the engine at operating temperature. I do mine after a good run soon after docking.
 
I do mine after a good run soon after docking.

This IS the key , much of the diesel oil content is addatives.

It takes time and heat for the detergents in the oil package to grab loose gunk , that came out after the last shut down , and pick it up again.

When cruising I try to plan which day will be the longest running and sked the oil change for then.

A short , say 4 hour operation , is noted in the log so I can change early the next time.
 
With the engine at operating temperature as per previous posts I use a manual vacuum pump seen in the link. It works great. I have used it through the dipstick tube on previous boats and on my current Volvo they have provided a tube specifically for changing oil. This takes the oil out in just a few minutes and is graduated so you can see how much was removed.

9-1/2 Litre Manual Fluid Extractor | Princess Auto
 
We have a Reverso that connects to the Oil pan on both the tranny and engine oil pan, along with the generator and wing engine oil pans. Makes changing oil a joy. ImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1400500201.176248.jpg
 
do a serch on the forum for 6.3544 oil change. There is a plate you can take off that makes the job much easier.
 
That is how I have been accessing my oil pan (as the suggested thread above describes...) And we have come to the same conclusion a vein pump would probably work better...

I had been searching using the 6.354 NOT the 6.3544 Not sure where that extra 4 comes from, but either way it worked in the search...LOL

I have good access to the oil, i just havent foiund a cheap reliable way to get it out... I might try an simple hand pump next... if I can find one here in town... if not I may build my own vein pump style one...
 
Drill pump. 99% of the oil comes out.
 
Depco sells a 12 volt oil transfer pump that can be used to build a Reverso type system fairly inexpensively. Did that after my "Exchanger" system failed after 15 years. Now I have 5 ball valves and a pump connected to the three engines and the two transmissions. For the main the 4.5 gallons are pulled out in less than a minute.
 
Here you go, use it with a cordless drill. The dipstick-sized hose is shipped inside the bigger green hose.
 

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The weekly missive from NorthernTool included this little pump. Lots of alternatives, but at $30.00 it might be worth considering. I use an impeller pump from Harbor Freight which costs slightly more and requires that you supply your own hose and wiring. No affliation to either etc etc.
 

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Thankfully I don't have to worry about such things, but I do have a drill pump on my 42 salmon troller.
 
OK, I have searched and cant find a thread on how to most effectively do this. I have Perkins M6.354's and I have that Jabsco cheap oil suction pump and reservoir. To say the least it just doesnt work. This pump... Jabsco Boat Marine Engine Oil Change Pump 3 1 2 Gallon Flat Tank 17860 0012 | eBay

I want to get all the oil out and am looking for an effective way to suction out the oil pans under the engine.

How do you guys get the oil all the way out? I dont have access to a drain on the under side of the pan...

There is this one in town, but does it work any better... Jabsco DIY Oil Change System w Pump 3 5 Gallon Bucket | eBay
The one in the second link works fine - but, if you're sucking oil out the dipstick tube you won't get all the old oil out.

Why is that? The dipstick tube doesn't go all the way to the bottom of the oil pan. If it did, you wouldn't be able to measure the oil level with the dipstick.

I have a manual oil removing pump that I've never used but it did come with a tube to push down the dipstick tube (inside it). This should reach the bottom. I'll adapt it to the electric pump and see if I get more oil out next time.
 
I got the 2.5 gal version I posted in the first post. I found one locally, but it was $173 AT HALF PRICE! I could have got it cheaper online, but the shipping and time it takes didnt make money sense...

BUT, it worked like a CHAMP! HIGHLY recommended!
 
I had an oil change issue w my new VW and went to the dealer. A mechanic said come and I'll show you what we use. Turns out it was a dipstick tube oil extractor just like I used on my previous boat. Was a plastic cylinder about 5"dia and 22"high w a handle and a black top. Had rings around the plastic cylinder at quart levels. You work the handle and create a vacuumed that sucks out the oil. I asked "how do you know you got it all out? He said he wondered too so he opened the drain plug on several cars after extraction and basically nothing came out.

That's the case w VW car engines but variations in engine design could make it otherwise in different engines. If you can open the drain plug you can test it like the VW man did. I may do that w my Jetta as the filter is on top of the engine and you're supposed to change the plug and gasket w every change. The plug is a star #45 socket screw plug. My Jetta takes 6 quarts of synthetic oil so the vacuumed extractor I have will require filling and unloading twice to get the job done. The longer higher capacity cylinders are available as the VW mechanic had one.

Any way it's most likely you'll get all the oil out w an extractor.
 
The weekly missive from NorthernTool included this little pump. Lots of alternatives, but at $30.00 it might be worth considering.
Identical to one I bought on Ebay in Aust. Gets the oil out, but much more slowly than claimed. Keeping the extraction tube correctly positioned is critical.
 
Ron, the tube you put down inside the dipstick hole goes all the way to the bottom. You really do get 99+% out.
 
Is this pretty much true of all dip sticks?

No , most engines are marinizations of some purchased engine that was built for industrial use , cars or trucks or for lawn/farm equipment .

There usually drain down from the oil pan , as is done with you car at Quick Lube.

SOME larger engines may contain a dip stick tube fitted as part of an on board oil change setup , but it would be factory installed , and the oil changing gear would be sold as an option.

For most folks the suck tube slipped down the dipstick tube will be fine.

Getting ALL the oil out is a fine fantasy , but remember larger engines will have a quart to a gallon that is all thru the engine that takes many hours to drain..

Oil is usually checked with the engine shut down for a period of time after operating warm.

On older DD the drain time is 2 min , and the oil level observed THEN is used to add oil if needed.
Modern DD check oil at idle , warm.

The cold oil level before start just checks there is some oil in the engine
.Frequently before cold start it will be very high on the stick as overnight the oil came back to the pan.
ALL the oil out only happens on a disassembly for rebuild , its the frequency of the oil change that matters.

Never heard of an engine rebuildrer claim , You wore it out with all that fresh oil!
 
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Ron, the tube you put down inside the dipstick hole goes all the way to the bottom. You really do get 99+% out.

I'm on a cruise now and probably have another oil change to make before I get home but that's what I'm going to do, adapt the tube to fit my electric changer. The engine is supposed to take 2.9 gallons and if I put even 2.5 gallons in I over fill it and have to pump some new oil out.
 
Is this pretty much true of all dip sticks?
A tube you insert into the dipstick should reach the bottom of the oil pan and drain most of the oil. If the engine is not level and the dipstick tube is not at the rear of the engine, there will be a small amount left.

Attaching a hose to the dipstick tube (like I've been doing and the PO apparently did) will leave whatever oil remains below the level of the dipstick tube. In my case (Volvo TAMD41 P), I estimate that to be at least three quarts.
 
The weekly missive from NorthernTool included this little pump. Lots of alternatives, but at $30.00 it might be worth considering. I use an impeller pump from Harbor Freight which costs slightly more and requires that you supply your own hose and wiring. No affliation to either etc etc.

My homemade unit. Total of $25 invested. Northern Tool now has this pump for $19.99.
 

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You can't change anywhere near 100% of your oil anyway so what's the difference whether you get 100% out or 95%? Pull your valve cover off and see all the little puddles of oil. And there's many more. All you can do is change most of the oil. But as I've said before you can suck it out and open the drain plug and see how much you missed. But it's really fly sh**t. What's important is that you change the 95%.

That looks really good windmill.
 
You can't change anywhere near 100% of your oil anyway so what's the difference whether you get 100% out or 95%? ...
Of course. 95% fresh oil is better than 100% filthy oil.Hint, by trying various positions of the tube the more I get out, if the tube is inserted too far it can bend back up, out of the oil.
Eric, I don`t get your mechanic sucking the oil out of your VW Beetle instead of draining via the sump plug. We drain boat engines via the dipstick hole because we can`t do it conventionally.
 
............. But as I've said before you can suck it out and open the drain plug and see how much you missed. .

I don't think many boat engines have drain plugs and even if they did they would be impossible to get to.

I had a bow rider long ago that did have a drain plug but it was connected to a hose. You pulled the hose out through the garboard drain to drain the oil.
 
.............., by trying various positions of the tube the more I get out, if the tube is inserted too far it can bend back up, out of the oil .............

The tube I'm thinking of that came with my manual extractor is stiff so it won't bend or curl. The only issue I can think of is, since it's small enough to fit inside the dipstick tube, it might be difficult to suck oil through it.
 
The only issue I can think of is, since it's small enough to fit inside the dipstick tube, it might be difficult to suck oil through it.

HOT oil flows like water , and the oil is best taken out hot after a long run so the detergents in the oil have picked up all the fine stuff that gets passed the filter.
 

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