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02-02-2017, 02:25 AM
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#1
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Guru
City: San Francisco
Vessel Name: Speedy Charlotte
Vessel Model: Beneteau Swift Trawler 44
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 679
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Mixing anodes from different manufacturers
Hi all, does anyone see an issue with mixing aluminum anodes from two different sources? One is Martyr, and the other Boatzincs.com. Both say their anodes adhere to MIL-A-24779(SH) spec. Although Martyr says their anodes do not contain cadmium, while I don't see any such claim from Boatzincs.com.
Lastly, I noticed that Boatzincs.com only has a zinc version of the No. 15 Transom Anode. Anyone familiar with Boatzincs.com site know what aluminum anode might work in place of the No. 15 Zinc?
Or if my boat has the No. 15 now, do I even need to stick to that type?
Sorry, newbie on this stuff!
Thanks!
Mike
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02-02-2017, 02:42 AM
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#2
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Guru
City: Fort Lauderdale. Florida, USA
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 21,449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelB1969
Hi all, does anyone see an issue with mixing aluminum anodes from two different sources? One is Martyr, and the other Boatzincs.com. Both say their anodes adhere to MIL-A-24779(SH) spec. Although Martyr says their anodes do not contain cadmium, while I don't see any such claim from Boatzincs.com.
Lastly, I noticed that Boatzincs.com only has a zinc version of the No. 15 Transom Anode. Anyone familiar with Boatzincs.com site know what aluminum anode might work in place of the No. 15 Zinc?
Or if my boat has the No. 15 now, do I even need to stick to that type?
Sorry, newbie on this stuff!
Thanks!
Mike
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Boatzincs often had anodes available that are not represented on their web site. I would speak directly to them.
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02-02-2017, 03:02 AM
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#3
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Guru
City: San Francisco
Vessel Name: Speedy Charlotte
Vessel Model: Beneteau Swift Trawler 44
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BandB
Boatzincs often had anodes available that are not represented on their web site. I would speak directly to them.
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Thanks for the tip, I just sent them an email.
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02-02-2017, 10:30 AM
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#4
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Valued Technical Contributor
City: Litchfield, Ct
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 6,785
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Anodes are not like batteries. You can mix manufacturers with no problems.
The Boatzincs site shows that the N15 zinc anode has a 3.1" center to center dimension for the two holes. Several aluminum anodes have 2-7/8" center to center dimensions that could easily be enlarged to fit and a couple are slotted that would work with no modifications, like the Mini Diver's Dream. So pick the one that fits with your available outside room.
Davod
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02-02-2017, 10:56 AM
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#5
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TF Site Team
City: Seneca Lake NY
Vessel Name: Bacchus
Vessel Model: MS 34 HT Trawler
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 7,828
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Mike
No need to be exactly the same shape...
I've gone to buying Al plates and drilling them myself for the hull anode.
If I have the correct #15 it's 6" x 2.4" If you have room around it consider a 6" x 3" AL plate and use the old one as a template top drill the holes
3" x 6" Alum
or as David suggests you might consider Mini Divers Dream Aluminum Anode if you have the 4" space
or AZHC-3 spacing slightly less but they are slotted and may fit
__________________
Don
2008 MS 34 HT Trawler
"Bacchus"
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02-03-2017, 09:50 AM
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#6
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Guru
City: Under a boat, in a marina in the San Francisco Bay
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelB1969
Hi all, does anyone see an issue with mixing aluminum anodes from two different sources?
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Wow, are you overthinking this.
__________________
Clean bottoms are FastBottoms!
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02-03-2017, 01:30 PM
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#7
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Guru
City: San Francisco
Vessel Name: Speedy Charlotte
Vessel Model: Beneteau Swift Trawler 44
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fstbttms
Wow, are you overthinking this.
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Well, it is my first boat, and it wasn't cheap. And I don't know what the hell I'm doing. So I'd rather waste a little time and energy and overthink it than not thinking about it enough and running into costly issues down the line.
With the mixing of metals, I know it's bad news to mix types, like Zinc and Aluminum. So that being the case, I read that some of the aluminum had cadmium, some didn't. Some were made of a mix of metals like the Navalloy. So just being cautious.
Anyways, thanks for the help, and thanks for the reply to the email I sent you. When my boat needs its first bottom cleaning, I will give you a ring.
Best,
Mike
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02-03-2017, 01:32 PM
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#8
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Guru
City: San Francisco
Vessel Name: Speedy Charlotte
Vessel Model: Beneteau Swift Trawler 44
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 679
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Thanks BandB, they did have some of the other parts in stock, and they were able to special order the others.
And thanks djmarchand and Bacchus, I ordered some of the alternatives you referenced.
This community is great. Very appreciative of all the help and guidance.
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02-03-2017, 01:50 PM
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#9
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Guru
City: Fort Lauderdale. Florida, USA
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 21,449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelB1969
Thanks BandB, they did have some of the other parts in stock, and they were able to special order the others.
And thanks djmarchand and Bacchus, I ordered some of the alternatives you referenced.
This community is great. Very appreciative of all the help and guidance.
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Glad it worked out for you. They normally can take care of any needs.
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02-03-2017, 09:39 PM
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#10
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Guru
City: Ashland, MA
Vessel Model: 1990 Silverton 40 aftcabin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 1,208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacchus
Mike
No need to be exactly the same shape...
I've gone to buying Al plates and drilling them myself for the hull anode.
or AZHC-3 spacing slightly less but they are slotted and may fit
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OK.... how did you do that? Did the anode have tabs? Drilling the aluminum alloy itself for mounting bolts won't work because the material under the bonding bolt will disappear as the anode does it job.
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02-03-2017, 09:43 PM
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#11
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Guru
City: Ashland, MA
Vessel Model: 1990 Silverton 40 aftcabin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 1,208
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I purchased an aluminum hull anode similar to a Diver's Dream or whatever it is called from West Marine last fall. Mine is 6" x 12" x 1" for installation this spring. West has them in their catalog.
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02-03-2017, 09:46 PM
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#12
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Guru
City: Under a boat, in a marina in the San Francisco Bay
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foggysail
OK.... how did you do that? Did the anode have tabs? Drilling the aluminum alloy itself for mounting bolts won't work because the material under the bonding bolt will disappear as the anode does it job.
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Most anodes do not have metal inserts cast into them to keep fasteners attached. They all seem to work fine.
__________________
Clean bottoms are FastBottoms!
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02-03-2017, 10:08 PM
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#13
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Guru
City: Alabama
Vessel Name: Waypoint
Vessel Model: Californian 48' CPMY
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 506
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Here is my order from Boat Zincs .com that I received today. All in aluminum.
Item # Description Qty
X-9AL Martyr X-9AL Shaft Aluminum Anode - 2" 4
R-3HA R-3HA Rudder Aluminum Anode - 4" Dia. Heavy 2
DP-612A DP-612A Aluminum Anode 1
The DP-613 is the plate for the stern. You should be able to look these up on their website.
__________________
Jon
------------------------------------------------
Waypoint's are abstract, often having no obvious relationship to any distinctive features of the real world.
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02-04-2017, 07:27 AM
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#14
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Guru
City: Ashland, MA
Vessel Model: 1990 Silverton 40 aftcabin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 1,208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fstbttms
Most anodes do not have metal inserts cast into them to keep fasteners attached. They all seem to work fine.
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Well----- that was a surprise but sure enough, hunks of anode metal are available. I would think those with an interior steel plate provided better electrical connection to the bonding circuit. Thanks for pointing that out.
When I remove my hull plate at season's end, most of the anode material is gone but the interior metal plate remains firmly attached. For that reason I doubled the thickness from 1/2" to 1" for next season. I use only one aluminum plate anode for galvanic protection.
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02-04-2017, 08:05 AM
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#15
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TF Site Team
City: Seneca Lake NY
Vessel Name: Bacchus
Vessel Model: MS 34 HT Trawler
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 7,828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foggysail
OK.... how did you do that? Did the anode have tabs? Drilling the aluminum alloy itself for mounting bolts won't work because the material under the bonding bolt will disappear as the anode does it job.
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A little nail polish around the hole will slow the erosion at the attachment. Similar to protecting the attachment area on shaft anodes to extend life.
A small dia washer w paint under would probably be even better.
Best practice to check continuity after mounting to be sure you have contact at some point.
__________________
Don
2008 MS 34 HT Trawler
"Bacchus"
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02-04-2017, 09:13 AM
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#16
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Guru
City: Ashland, MA
Vessel Model: 1990 Silverton 40 aftcabin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 1,208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacchus
A little nail polish around the hole will slow the erosion at the attachment. Similar to protecting the attachment area on shaft anodes to extend life.
A small dia washer w paint under would probably be even better.
Best practice to check continuity after mounting to be sure you have contact at some point.
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Thanks Don, but I plan to stay with anodes that provide an internal plate to ensure good bonding. Consider the many anodes commercially used for bonding bulkheads for example. Those provide interior metal plates for welding the anode to a bulkhead. I see that style predominantly used on metal hulls of our local fishing boats.
I also check every season the efficacy of my anode using my silver-silver chloride half cell. I believe this is the best anode performance test for galvanic protection.
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