Marine binocular recommendations???

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Hey, gc, boat size is important here. My "stabilized" 10X Canons were fine on my GB42 but have been retired from sea duty ince I moved to this 30-footer - just to hard to use, even in the bays with a little chop. 7X50 Bushnells are much better despite not having that pesky compass you seem to want.

Ironically, after a little more poking around, I settled on a pair of 7X50 Bushnell's with the "pesky" compass I want, ruggedized (rubber body) and at a reasonable price...

If there is any serious chop, I shouldn't be on the water given my rather meager boat!
 
Ironically, after a little more poking around, I settled on a pair of 7X50 Bushnell's with the "pesky" compass I want, ruggedized (rubber body) and at a reasonable price...

If there is any serious chop, I shouldn't be on the water given my rather meager boat!

And there you are. Well done.
 
After much research and talking to others, I got the 7x50 Steiner marine and military and am totally satisfied. Use 'em all the time at anchor and occasionally for buoy confirmation if necessary.
 
When my 20 yr old high-end Fujinons broke I sent them to Baker Marine, an authorized Fujinon repair center. They called to say that the Fujinons really weren't worth repairing, the cost to repair was more than they were worth. They ended up making me a good deal on one of their own binoculars with compass. Very happy with them, every bit as good as the Fujinons. www.bakermarineusa.com
 
Hallo we had different binoculars in the pas, all work fine.
in our firm we where working with zeis lasers equipment
when we visit the company we visit the zeis museum in Jena Germany
and discoverd that zeis is specialized in lenzes and special coating of lenzes.
The binoculair of zeis are very heavy prized.
i found a small 6x18 2de hand, its not the most popular model so the prise is good

I was amized in the picture quality, have never had a better one, it ways almost noting so is easy to hold steady, i can read boat names as far as 300m an ib the dock as far as 800m, crazy never imaging that it was possible
the lenz have some coating on it to get a clear picture
 
We have Fujinon 14.40 techno-stabi binoculars. We bought them on Amazon for $1,241.95.
 
I have an old (10+) yrs Fujinon 12x32 Techno-Stabi JR Image Stabilized Binocular, love them! Image stabilization can’t be beat while on the water. Backup pair is Fujinon 7x50 MTRC, also old, both are labeled “caption’s use only” and a pair of Steiner Firebird 8x 30 for guests. Both Fujinon binocs still provide a crystal clear view. I’d recommend a pair of image stabilized.
 
Binoculars

It might be implied in the prior links but I think the conversation needs to start with the correct magnification. Anywhere from 10 to 7 times magnification shouldn’t need a stabilizer. Anything over 10 gets pretty shaky trying to hold it still and look at a distance. The next part of the conversation should be the lens diameter a 50 mm lens will typically let more light in than a 35 mm lens. Also the quality of lens will make a big difference and looking under low light conditions so the expensive Steiners Swarovski‘s and others that have high-quality lenses will allow you to see great detail in low light conditions. For example I have a 10 magnification 30 mm lens on a Swarovski binocular where I can see the fishing that’s a mile offshore out in the ocean. If that’s not a concern you don’t need to spend the money. If you shop carefully you can get a very good pair of binoculars under a few hundred dollars.
 
Binoculars

I will offer that you might want to 'bite the bullet' and buy a pair of stabilized binoculars.

I have found that the extra magnification comes in handy many times I'm using our Nikons.

I purchased ours from Defender Marine that had some that were remanufactured and now 10yrs later they still work as designed.

Here is a pair (https://www.defender.com/search.html?q=stabilized+binoculars) that Defender now carries but I'm sure that a Google search will bring up more (along with things you didn't ask for).

Good luck & BTW you won't ever regret having them.
 
I am 80+ years old and still boating with my wife of 54 years.
Having tried a number of different binoculars, since I started boating 50 + years ago, without hesitation, I recommend the Steiner Commander 7X 50 WC model together with the Flotation Strap Clicoc 7×50 Commander/Navigator. I realise it is expensive but, in my opinion, is worth every cent.
 
In reading all the recommendations, I'm realizing that much depends on how much magnification you are happy with. If 7x does the trick for you, then no stabilization is required, and it's all about optical quality.


Personally, I have never found 7x to be enough magnification. If I'm overtaking a boat in a waterway and trying to read their name off the transom so I can hail them, I find that I'm pretty much on top of them by the time I can read it. Same trying to read the number off a buoy or marker. Or trying to read the air draft gauge for a bridge to see if you can fit under, or if you need an opening. 14x makes a world of difference in situations like this. But once you get to 14x, you will have enough magnification, but then movement becomes the limiting factor, and a nearly impossible problem when the boat is moving. In steps stabilization, and now you can identify boats from a comfortable distance, figure out bridges when you can still hold back and wait for an opening, and identify nav markers well in advance.


For all these reasons, I have found stabilized 14x (give or take) binoculars to be indispensable.
 
In reading all the recommendations, I'm realizing that much depends on how much magnification you are happy with. If 7x does the trick for you, then no stabilization is required, and it's all about optical quality.


Personally, I have never found 7x to be enough magnification. If I'm overtaking a boat in a waterway and trying to read their name off the transom so I can hail them, I find that I'm pretty much on top of them by the time I can read it. Same trying to read the number off a buoy or marker. Or trying to read the air draft gauge for a bridge to see if you can fit under, or if you need an opening. 14x makes a world of difference in situations like this. But once you get to 14x, you will have enough magnification, but then movement becomes the limiting factor, and a nearly impossible problem when the boat is moving. In steps stabilization, and now you can identify boats from a comfortable distance, figure out bridges when you can still hold back and wait for an opening, and identify nav markers well in advance.


For all these reasons, I have found stabilized 14x (give or take) binoculars to be indispensable.


Absolutely agree. We bought our stabilized Nikons in 2002 and have loved them ever since. We were bringing our last boat home from Virginia. We have a pair of 7x50s and the stabilized Nikons. At the beginning of the trip my wife would take both sets up to the flybridge because the stabilized ones were too complicated and too heavy. After a couple of days she stopped taking the 7x50s up to the flybridge. I asked why she said the stabilized Nikons were just so much better to see with. So that is our experience. Just have to give the stabilized ones a try for more than a few minutes and I think you would really like them much better.
 
Nikon

5 year old Nikon 10x50, no compass, works well on our trawler for picking out day marks, a bit hard to hold a target in moderately rough weather, but really great for viewing boats and wildlife under most circumstances. Old 7x35 store brand generally satisfactory, easier to use, but far less detail.
 
Vortex

Vortex makes a great product and offer a lifetime warranty that’s rare these days.
 
I wouldn't purchase binoculars that aren't stabilized. It makes a world of difference and worth the extra dollars. We have Canon stabilized binoculars but I would not recommend either Canon model. While electronically they work well and the optics are great, Canon uses a coating on the outside that will not standup to any heat, perspiration from you hands and sunscreen. And, I might add we pampered the binoculars; careful they weren't exposed to sun, etc. Within 5 years the coating was tacky and left black material on your hands and anything they touch. The black is very difficult to remove from clothing. Others have had the same problem and Canon apparently will not replace the binoculars but will refurbish them for a price near the original cost. In addition, the battery cover on our pair broke. As of now still researching what brand will be next, but we will inspect and handle them in a store as opposed to ordering on line.
 
I wouldn't purchase binoculars that aren't stabilized. It makes a world of difference and worth the extra dollars. We have Canon stabilized binoculars but I would not recommend either Canon model. While electronically they work well and the optics are great, Canon uses a coating on the outside that will not standup to any heat, perspiration from you hands and sunscreen. And, I might add we pampered the binoculars; careful they weren't exposed to sun, etc. Within 5 years the coating was tacky and left black material on your hands and anything they touch. The black is very difficult to remove from clothing. Others have had the same problem and Canon apparently will not replace the binoculars but will refurbish them for a price near the original cost. In addition, the battery cover on our pair broke. As of now still researching what brand will be next, but we will inspect and handle them in a store as opposed to ordering on line.

Yes, my 10X stabilised Canons (since banned from my too bouncy 30-foot boat in favor of unstab 7X50s) got sticky after a few years, but I refused to toss them and simply wiped all that crappy gooey plastic off them with acetone and spray painted them satin black. That was ten years ago, and they are in daily use looking out the back door of the house at things on our bayou.
 
Downside to too high a magnification is field of vision is restricted. Not infrequently you look with your eyes or have a bearing from your chart, radar or AIS and want to pick up the binocs and see it. Personally find it harder to do and takes more time to do with high magnification. A common conversation is “hey what’s that at 10 o’clock?” Or a similar indestinct bearing due to different angles of visions between observers. 7x works 14x doesn’t. So you need to decide do you want to see the nipples on the ladies in their bikinis or pick up that pickup buoy in haze quickly.

For high mag find I don’t need binocs. This works for short money.

Sig Sauer Oscar 3 Spotting Scope Stabilized 10-20X30 Image Riflescope
 
Last edited:
I have owned the Bushnell mariner binoculars with compass, I rarely used the compass. I have owned Nikon, Zeiss, a marine binocular whose name I can't recall, I still have it. I bought the Vortex Diamondback binocular to help me with my bird photography and threw them in my drawer by my helm chair and found these quickly became my favourite. You will find the Vortex Diamondback series gets all kinds of great reviews.

The view through the 8 by 42 is excellent with great colour science. And they are very good in low light. I really didn't expect them to become my main boating glasses, I still have my other Marine binoculars in the same draw but I rarely use them, instead the Vortex.
 
Downside to too high a magnification is field of vision is restricted. Not infrequently you look with your eyes or have a bearing from your chart, radar or AIS and want to pick up the binocs and see it. Personally find it harder to do and takes more time to do with high magnification. A common conversation is “hey what’s that at 10 o’clock?” Or a similar indestinct bearing due to different angles of visions between observers. 7x works 14x doesn’t. So you need to decide do you want to see the nipples on the ladies in their bikinis or pick up that pickup buoy in haze quickly.

For high mag find I don’t need binocs. This works for short money.

Sig Sauer Oscar 3 Spotting Scope Stabilized 10-20X30 Image Riflescope

And higher mag reduces low light usefulness.
 
Yes. Think that’s the feature the feature that justifies the cost of Steiners and the like. Never had FLIR on any boat. Have very limited experience but clearly a game changer.
 
I wouldn't purchase binoculars that aren't stabilized. It makes a world of difference and worth the extra dollars. We have Canon stabilized binoculars but I would not recommend either Canon model. While electronically they work well and the optics are great, Canon uses a coating on the outside that will not standup to any heat, perspiration from you hands and sunscreen. And, I might add we pampered the binoculars; careful they weren't exposed to sun, etc. Within 5 years the coating was tacky and left black material on your hands and anything they touch. The black is very difficult to remove from clothing. Others have had the same problem and Canon apparently will not replace the binoculars but will refurbish them for a price near the original cost. In addition, the battery cover on our pair broke. As of now still researching what brand will be next, but we will inspect and handle them in a store as opposed to ordering on line.
I had Fujinon 14x40 TechnoStabis. Lousy field of view. Difficult to pick up targets. Heavy. Have turn them them on to use them. Lousy Iow light utility. I hated them. Sold them for $50 more than I paid for them.
 
I like our old (and cheap) Bushnell Perma Focus 7x50 enough to be thinking about buying their 10x50 model for those times when 7x is not enough magnification. No stabilization, no compass or rangefinder, no focus. Simple as it gets. Never missed the focus, nor anyone aboard complaining about having to set the focus.
 
Back
Top Bottom