Looking at a 1972 65 foot wooden Romsdahl

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eclinden said:
If I do move forward I'll make an offer based on the problems that I am aware of contingent upon a survey and further adjustment after the survey.
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I would suggest changing your mindset. Don’t make an offer with adjustments to what repairs are critical. From that perspective the owner would have to pay YOU $100k+ just to take it away.

If the vessel is in need of the tremendous care which we are all assuming, then I’d just offer the seller what I felt would make a nice fair-play gift to take the boat off his hands. I bet he takes $35k in such case.
 
First reaction -- Romsdahls have a wonderful reputation and if I were looking for a boat in that size range, I'd look for one.


Second -- $30 hourly for a surveyor is way low. I would expect to pay yard rates -- close to $100. Surely some of our West Coast members can suggest someone better.


Third -- I've never heard of a Kelvin and I've been around boats for 50 years. Maintenance, especially parts, may be a problem.


Fourth -- she looks good in the pix, but boats always look better than they are.


Fifth -- 65' (actually 20 meters, which is 65.6 feet) is a magic number. Various rules -- lights, radios, etc. -- get significantly tougher above it. It's more nuisance that really a problem, but it's there. For example, you need three VHF radios, because one must always be on 13 and one on 16 and scanning doesn't cut it. You might want to find out which side of the number she's actually on.


There's a lot of rust under the anchor plate -- is she iron fastened? That's a negative. You will want the owner's permission for the surveyor to pull some fastenings.


Budget $20,000 a year for yard work unless you're capable and willing to do a couple hundred hours of work on her every year yourself.


Bottom line -- unless the survey shows something really bad, go for it.


Jim
 
1) It's wood. 2) It's a single screw 3) It has steel tanks. Three strikes and you're out. Strike four is the $95k asking price. Run, don't walk. To be honest, I wouldn't have gotten past the single screw in reading the equipment list.
 
As a life long wooden boat owner who has done the majority of maintenance and repair for over thirty years taking care of a Cheoy Lee sailboat I offer the following.

It all depends. Quality of design, construction materials and methods along with maintenance will all determine the current and future condition of a wooden boat Use a surveyor with wooden expertise. He/she will likely know where to poke snd prod the “Achilles heel(s) of the specific vessel.

The vast majority of boats over 50yrs old are wooden.
 
What a lovely boat. I have had 2 of this type over the years. With 2 inch timbers If the hull passes a survey by a wood specialist surveyor only, then it's going to go a few more years before you have to really spend. With any large boat particularly wood you will need to be able to do the work yourself if you want it to be economical. Mostly painting and some deck repairs perhaps but finding specialist chippies for these hulls will be difficult and expensive.
Iroko (poor man's teak) is good wood, long-lasting and rot-resistant, but you must have some fastenings drawn. Most of these trawlers were fastened with iron nails! And check any keel bolts.
Hopefully, she has been to sea regularly so the planks at/above the waterline have been kept wet, or you will start to take on water at an alarming rate.
You are not going to paint this with AWLGRIP so the paint will be good quality household by the gallon applied with a roller. You will not need a pristine finish just a good clean one.
I used to careen mine on a local beach and paint the bottom and waterline between tides.
Kelvin engines derive from Scottish fishing boats and have a tremendous reputation, think Gardiner. Any other mechanical items like pumps, generators etc will be subject to the maintenance and replacement regime as any other boat that you might buy.
Look for deck leaks usually over bunks.
If you can get it for $70000, can get insurance, have somewhere to moor it, just go for it and live the dream and after 10 years as long as you have only been spending money on paint and not shipyards, you can just buy a box of matches, or sell it on as a house boat for $30000.
~Or spend your $150000 on an old HAtteras 52 now.
 
mikecambrai said:
Hopefully, she has been to sea regularly so the planks at/above the waterline have been kept wet, or you will start to take on water at an alarming rate.
You are not going to paint this with AWLGRIP so the paint will be good quality household by the gallon applied with a roller. You will not need a pristine finish just a good clean one.
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This is the main reason fishermen still love wood construction and it has fallen out of favour for recreational use. You need salt water over your decks and often. If you don't want to do that by boating in rough weather make regular use of a salt water deck hose (and a big one)

House paint is fine for timber.

I used to own a Kelvin as a back up generator on a dairy farm. Super reliable but noisy as all get out. Parts will be hard to find but you won't need many.
 
DaveGibson said:
1) It's wood. 2) It's a single screw 3) It has steel tanks. Three strikes and you're out. Strike four is the $95k asking price. Run, don't walk. To be honest, I wouldn't have gotten past the single screw in reading the equipment list.
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1) It's wood. Stronger and more repairable than glass -- the Romsdahls, are built like tanks. Much less likely to take serious damage from a hit or an unplanned visit to a reef. Of six glass boats that went on reefs in the Pacific during our circumnav, only two came off whole, and those only because the reef was right outside the harbor and they were pulled off within a few hours. The others were holed so badly they were unrepairable.



2) It's single screw. I've never owned and won't own a twin screw boat. As a boatbuilder many years ago, I repaired far too many shafts and props that hit something that would not have damaged a single screw boat. As for maneuverability, I can put Fintry into a dock space ten feet longer than she is even without the bow thruster.


3) Steel tanks. So what? Properly maintained, steel will last at least as long as glass or aluminum. The usual problem is rusting on top from deck leaks, but a well maintained boat doesn't have deck leaks.


Jim
 
Before I had my plastic boat toys I only had wooden boats. I do not agree with the nay sayers here. A lot depends on your age and interests rather than your pocket book. If you are over 60 then forget it because in a few years you won't be able to do the work yourself. If you are younger and have boat maintenance skills, you will have a very interesting and rewarding hobby. If you just want a "boat" then forget it. If you want a dreamboat then consider it. If you can afford a total loss in an accident or fire, then just get liability insurance.

Those Rhomsdales are famously well built boats. If the hull and deck prove sound at survey and if you religiously keep rain water out of cracks and crannies, then the main work is the periodic bottom jobs which cost the same as a plastic boat of the same size. Engine work will also cost the same as a plastic boat. And you will never have to worry about blisters. The key is being able to do the maintenance yourself.

Years ago I cruised a boat in the Virgin Islands for several months. I noticed that the only well kept hulls were the wooden ones. The fiberglass boats all developed gel coat chalkiness in the sun and LPU paint jobs were too costly. The wooden hull would get painted every few years and looked great.

Plastic trawlers suffer delamination and blisters and rot around windows.. Wooden boats suffer rot if fresh water lies in cracks. They both can have expensive repair jobs.

I never needed work done by "professionals" on my wooden boats but I enjoyed doing the annual maintenance. I especially enjoyed the boats because they were beautiful and performed well. LF Herreshoff once wrote that" if your heart doesn't go pitter patter when you walk the dock towards your boat then you have the wrong boat".

Keep in mind that most of the participants on this forum (including me) own fiberglass production boats that are designed for a mass market. Few people today would buy a Rhomsdale. That is not the mass market. For 25 years I have admired the two Rhomsdales that cruise charters in SE Alaska.

I suggest you find the contact numbers of other owners of sister ships and get their opinions. they all would have heard the same advice as you are getting here but made the plunge anyhow. Find out if they regret it.

INHO the issue is the size of the bat not the materials. That is a huge boat for a livaboard.

good luck.
 
rpackard said:
If you are over 60 then forget it because in a few years you won't be able to do the work yourself..
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I am hoping to prove you wrong...time will tell
 
I have owned a number of wooden boats (40' and 48'). My first impression of the one you are considering is that the rudder is too small; adding a fishtail will help manoeuvring hugely. Five years between slipping (you say haulouts) is way too long; annual or perhaps every eight months is needed. Definitely remove a couple of the fasteners; that rust could be the result of damp wood and another poster mentioned. And (I learned this the hard way) inspect as much of the interior of the hull as you can for dry rot and shrinkage.

Simi is spot on in his suggestion of 'consider this a work boat' in terms of finish; 100% agree with this. But that hull needs to be sound, inside and out, and if it's not, then you know what to do.
 
Blissboat said:
That's a funny one. Back in the mid-1970s, one of the yachting magazines, I think it was Yachting & Boating, published a deadpan serious April 1st article announcing the recent discovery of mutant termites that had adapted to the growing use of fiberglass in boatbuilding. "Polyestermites," they were called. In classic Darwinian fashion, they were colonizing the hulls of fiberglass boats, and nothing known to science could stop their spread . . .
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https://afloat.ie/resources/marine-...ws/item/38977-the-polyestermite-it-s-for-real
 
I added a couple of pictures to my album showing above the waterline planking that might need some work
 
rpackard said:
I do not agree with the nay sayers here. A lot depends on your age and interests rather than your pocket book. If you are over 60 then forget it because in a few years you won't be able to do the work yourself.
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I'm 78 and do almost all the work on both Fintry and Morning Light myself -- except for washing and painting the bottom, which the yard reserves for itself. Among other things, in the last few years I've installed two gyro-stabilizers -- 3,200 pounds and 1,100 pounds -- a new generator -- 1,000 pounds -- and a new auxiliary engine -- 1,000 pounds. Obviously I was not lifting these by hand, but heavy work, nonetheless.


I have many friends of similar age who are equally active. God willing, we're doing a cruise around Newfoundland with about 18 other boats this summer and I wager the average age of the crews is over 60.


Jim
 
Circumnavigator said:
I'm 78 and do almost all the work on both Fintry and Morning Light myself -- except for washing and painting the bottom, which the yard reserves for itself. Among other things, in the last few years I've installed two gyro-stabilizers -- 3,200 pounds and 1,100 pounds -- a new generator -- 1,000 pounds -- and a new auxiliary engine -- 1,000 pounds. Obviously I was not lifting these by hand, but heavy work, nonetheless.

I have many friends of similar age who are equally active. God willing, we're doing a cruise around Newfoundland with about 18 other boats this summer and I wager the average age of the crews is over 60.
Jim
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I feel much better now! thank you and good morning
 
I haven't visited it yet. I was going to this past weekend but had to cancel. So I'm going to see it this coming Sunday and my daughters go along cause she's the boss. I do have some pictures on my personal album if you look in there.
 
Had a quick look at the survey in your album. Reminds me of a 65ft steel project boat I took on when I was in my mid-20's. I had a lot more energy back then :)

Here are some thoughts and things to keep in mind:

You are going to invest a huge chunk of your life's energy into this boat. I hope you're not planning on just owning it for a few years then selling. Plan on being buried at sea in it when you are in your 90's. The reason I say this is not to be cheeky, but you need to conduct your rebuild properly. It doesn't have to be luxurious or fancy, but it has to be SOLID.

Some unknown degree of replanking needed. Have you checked on sourcing 2" thick iroko planks - can you import a big selection of 6-9" wide pieces (so you can cut them down to size) from overseas and save some money?

Lots of fasteners to be replaced. Luckily they are galvanized so will be easy to source. Do not mix stainless, silicon bronze, etc., with your galvanized underwater. Nothing wrong with galv, except they will live a much longer life if you can source some red-lead paint to coat them and the wood with.

Red lead paint. Have you sourced some - do they even sell it in America or can you drive down to Mexico, buy some 5 gallon pails, and drive them across the border?

Can't tell if that anchor nesting plate is galvanized or 304 stainless. Looks like it needs to be removed, repaired underneath, then rebedded. If you ever get to the point where you're launching the boat, then the anchors are all wrong, but that will be another fun TF thread to argue over!

Looks like a wonderful engine. If the compression, cylinder condition (viewed with a borescope), oil analysis (hopefully the owner has a history of tests to show you), etc. are good, then hopefully you'll have a solid engine.

What are the generators like? Gensets are sorta disposable, so you might want to toss it/them in the trash and start fresh and new. You'll need lots and lots of 120VAC to power your tools for the next decade or two of ownership.

If you don't need air conditioning, and can fit 2-3kW of solar, then perhaps you can live without.

You'll need a game plan. Upon close of sale what will you do at THAT boatyard, or since you'll need to splash it for survey, which yard will you bring it to? You may be up on dry land for the next year while you work on it.

The planks will dry out and shrink during that time. Will it need to be re-caulked (cotton and caulk)? Probably a good thing to do anyway, even if not completely needed, including a complete refastening of the bottom.

Are the fuel tanks good or corroded? Small corrosion can be repaired in-situ, but large may be a big headache. New fuel tanks are very expensive.

Like others have commented, even if you go for a workboat finish, the hull, running gear and engine need to be 100% solid. If you are solid in a year then I'd push off across the Pacific Ocean and sail it to SE Asia for a decorative refit.

Hope this helps.

PS - I'm jealous of your dream, but not of your reality. Ha
 
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OP: If you haven't already seen it there is a Romsdahl forumhttps://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/romsdal-trawlers-13616.html
 
Circumnavigator said:
First reaction -- Romsdahls have a wonderful reputation and if I were looking for a boat in that size range, I'd look for one.


Second -- $30 hourly for a surveyor is way low. I would expect to pay yard rates -- close to $100. Surely some of our West Coast members can suggest someone better.


Third -- I've never heard of a Kelvin and I've been around boats for 50 years. Maintenance, especially parts, may be a problem.


Fourth -- she looks good in the pix, but boats always look better than they are.


Fifth -- 65' (actually 20 meters, which is 65.6 feet) is a magic number. Various rules -- lights, radios, etc. -- get significantly tougher above it. It's more nuisance that really a problem, but it's there. For example, you need three VHF radios, because one must always be on 13 and one on 16 and scanning doesn't cut it. You might want to find out which side of the number she's actually on.


There's a lot of rust under the anchor plate -- is she iron fastened? That's a negative. You will want the owner's permission for the surveyor to pull some fastenings.


Budget $20,000 a year for yard work unless you're capable and willing to do a couple hundred hours of work on her every year yourself.


Bottom line -- unless the survey shows something really bad, go for it.


Jim
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Jim, Your Fleet Tender has the same basic outlines as trawler. At 80ft., she is easy to handle as you know and at sea, I have never had any worries at all in all sorts of weather. A very rugged craft that will last for many years to come. A proper little ship. I expect that you have converted the interior into a less utilitarian decor!
 
Thanks Mike,
I just took a look at that thread and contacted I think it's Delfin. The boat in his profile picture looks very much like the Triton.
 
Circumnavigator said:
First reaction -- Romsdahls have a wonderful reputation and if I were looking for a boat in that size range, I'd look for one.


Second -- $30 hourly for a surveyor is way low. I would expect to pay yard rates -- close to $100. Surely some of our West Coast members can suggest someone better.


Third -- I've never heard of a Kelvin and I've been around boats for 50 years. Maintenance, especially parts, may be a problem.


Fourth -- she looks good in the pix, but boats always look better than they are.


Fifth -- 65' (actually 20 meters, which is 65.6 feet) is a magic number. Various rules -- lights, radios, etc. -- get significantly tougher above it. It's more nuisance that really a problem, but it's there. For example, you need three VHF radios, because one must always be on 13 and one on 16 and scanning doesn't cut it. You might want to find out which side of the number she's actually on.


There's a lot of rust under the anchor plate -- is she iron fastened? That's a negative. You will want the owner's permission for the surveyor to pull some fastenings.


Budget $20,000 a year for yard work unless you're capable and willing to do a couple hundred hours of work on her every year yourself.


Bottom line -- unless the survey shows something really bad, go for it.


Jim
Click to expand...
Hi Mako,

I wish he was $30 an hour. This surveyor charges $30 a foot for a wooden boat. I've heard from some others in the area that he absolutely hates wooden boats so maybe he's not a good choice.
The engine manufacturer is still in business and is very popular in Europe. It is still possible to get new parts for this engine.
Right now the Gen set isn't working. The owner says that he just needs a circuit board. I probably need to budget for a replacement.
I will definitely put solar on it I don't know if it's 2 to 3 kW but there will be some.
The old survey which you can see on my profile in my album, notes some rust on the tops of the fuel tanks. I don't know how serious it is or how bad it is have to take a look.
I like the idea of going to Southeast Asia but wow that's a big ocean to cross. If a basic bottom job in the SF bay area on this boat costs about $11,000 without repairs what do you think that would cost in Southeast Asia?
 
Came into the thread late, and admittedly haven't read the whole thing, but....

When we were in Panama, a boat left to go to Guatemala for cheap prices as discussed here. They never made it and were dismasted on the way to get cheaper rigging. If my boat bottom or structure was questionable I don't think I would cross an ocean. I get wanting good value, but not at the risk of sinking. Besides if you can cross the ocean with the bottom you have, you could probably go where you wanted in the first place.


Also would think the ocean crossing would cost much more than the savings (extra safety equipment, wear and tear, insurance, fuel, etc.)
 
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eclinden said:
Hi Mako,

I wish he was $30 an hour. This surveyor charges $30 a foot for a wooden boat. I've heard from some others in the area that he absolutely hates wooden boats so maybe he's not a good choice.
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No, you absolutely DO want Dr. Death as your surveyor, no matter WHAT the construction material. And yup, $30/ft. for a wooden boat, ESPECIALLY "big wood", sounds correct. Hopefully, he'll insist on drawing some fasteners, and a lengthy haul out to verify hull and topsides condition.

Sure hope you haven't' got on rose-colored glasses if and when you survey this not-a-Romsdahl. Just for edification, should you get this far into this purchase, you might ask the yard for a cost to replace a plank, should you need one in the future. Also, should this thing be iron fastened, you might query them on refastening. Bet it makes your knees buckle and your eyes water.

Best of luck in this chimera.

Regards,

Pete
 
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