In line squeeze Bulb

[BonesD]

Does anyone use an in-line primer squeeze bulb on their diesel system to assist in in priming?
The type you see on most outboard fuel systems. If so, does it help and will the standard gasoline bulb hold up to diesel. I don’t know if there is one designed for diesel or not.
Thanks.

 

[Pack Mule]

I had one on my Westerbeke diesel generator from previous owner . It started to cause me some air in the line issues so I took it out . Haven’t missed it so far and that was over a year ago .

 

[bayview]

I would add in a parallel loop with valves to bypass it so that any failure of the bulb would not cause engine problems or fuel leaks.

 

[LarryM]

Here's some of the best info I've ever found on the subject.

https://www.sbmar.com/product/smx-complete-squeeze-bulb-priming-kit/

Using the Squeeze Bulb Effectively - Seaboard Marine

Squeeze Bulb Priming on Diesel Powered Boats - Seaboard Marine

 

[Comodave]

I bought one to help me prime after having the engine out and replacing the Racor filter. It was not very helpful. I found that just sucking on the line to get fuel into the Racor worked better. Once the Racor had fuel I used the builtin Racor primer to fill the secondaries. I added a 12 volt Racor priming pump to the new Racor and it worked great. No extra valves and stuff. It added 3” in height to the Racor but that was not a problem.

 

[Ski in NC]

I don't need one on my boat, but on customers boats I would not install them without blocking valves. Even then after a year or two the bulbs get so hard to be useless.

These things are very cheaply made and can present quite a leak risk. Definitely don't leave it connected in the engine room below fuel level... unless it is isolated with blocking valves.

Most engines can be reprimed without such, depends on the engines.

Some boats I set up a kit in a box with hose, bulb, fittings and clamps and told them to keep it stored in the engine room.

My Cummins does not need it. I keep a 1-gal jug of fuel in the ER to top off filters, then the primer button does the rest.

Detroit two strokes really benefit from squeeze bulb to prime, just don't leave it plumbed in there after a start!!

 

[Ken E.]

If you want a squeeze bulb kit, sbmar.com has them, including the blocking valves that Ski refers to. I have them on my 6bt Cummins but have never used them live...never had to.

 

[Pete Meisinger]

I don't like the idea for them to be permanently mounted. They can restrict normal flow and introduce air into the system.

pete

 

[C lectric]

I don't like the idea for them to be permanently mounted. They can restrict normal flow and introduce air into the system.

pete

That's why Seaboard strongly recommends the use of the isolating/blocking valves. Ball valves.

 

[BonesD]

Thanks for the input.
I had one deteriorate on the inside. Took a couple failed trips to figure out the source of the crap in my carburetor on an old Evinrude. Previous owner had an electric pump mounted on the bulkhead for the same purpose but the pump is shot.
I look at all those valves and connections and see probable future air leaks and with all that hardware I bet it’s tough to track down the culprit when it does happen.
Thanks

 

[Comodave]

Like I said in a previous post, I added a Racor primer pump that mounts inside the Racor filter. No extra valves or other stuff. It is the black section in the Racor. Here is a photo from when I was installing it in the boat. It was not all hooked up at the time of the photo. The priming pump adds about 3” in height of the filter. I have it hooked up to a push button switch that is just to the right of the filter.I just push the button and wait until fuel comes out of the bleeded screw holes on the secondaries.

 

[Choices]

I have them with a blocking circuit.

Can change a primary filter while underway.

Would not have a boat without them. Keep It Simple Stupid.

 

[caltexflanc]

I put one in when an old Walbro 32v priming pump went bad. Put it right where the Walbro was so all the bypass plumbing/valves was already in place. Worked great for changing the Racor and priming the secondary. Got mine from Seaboard Marine as well. I wouldn't have another diesel boat without that or a priming pump.

 

[kapnd]

The Seaboard kit comes with manifold and valves to bypass, Ive used them for many years with no problem at all.
I install the filters dry, and pump them full, so there’s no chance of pouring contaminated fuel into the clean side of the filters.
I enjoy the redundancy and simplicity of its being entirely manual.

 

[STB]

I like electric priming pumps. They seem to be less likely to fail and, in many cases, can back up the mechanical lifter if it fails. Of course, squeeze bulbs are less expensive by a lot.

If your tanks can gravity or siphon drain (and I bet they can at least siphon drain), a cfacked squeeze valve can put a lot of fuel in entirely the wrong place.

 

[boomerang]

I agree with Ski regarding isolating a priming device with valves, so why not add an electric priming pump instead of a squeeze bulb? The price is about the same for a cheap e-bay pump vs a bulb! I was hesitant about using one of those small, cheap pumps, mainly because of lift concerns (I don't have much lift...maybe 18" if the tanks are close to empty) but on the assurance from a member from this forum who had good success with this type of pump, I tried one. The thing primes the system flawlessly!
Attached is what I built.

 

[hodaka]

I see several folks have already mentioned Seaboard Marine's very good (IMO) information about squeeze bulb systems. No need for me to add anything, except I'm a satisfied customer with no connection to Seaboard other than that. Squeeze bulb worked fine for me after I added it to fuel line.

 

[BonesD]

Well, I still haven’t made up my mind but I do get to install this new Racor set up today.
I thought I read somewhere on this post about using clear fuel line. That “sounds” like a good idea. Make it way to see where fuel is and isn’t.
Any recommendations ?

 

[STB]

I would avoid any hose not rated for this application, which may include fuel that can be a solvent, heat, sharp clamps, occasional exposure to solvents, positive or negative pressure, etc.

A bad mine can, depending upon the situation, gravity or siphoned drain a lot of fuel into the engine room.

 

[firehoser75]

Definitely use hose that is rated for diesel fuel. The clear hose used for the squeeze bulb application or fuel tank sight gauges always have shut off (isolation) valves that are left closed unless you are in the process of using them (eg. sighting the tank level). If you can find "rated" clear hose, go for it, but I am not aware of it.

 

[bayview]

For decades I gallon jug of diesel has worked for me .

I keep it and any lube oil in a plastic tub incase the flimsy jugs spring a leak. A sheet of oil diaper underneath reduces vibration caused friction failure on the bottoms of the jugs..

 

[LarryM]

Definitely use hose that is rated for diesel fuel. The clear hose used for the squeeze bulb application or fuel tank sight gauges always have shut off (isolation) valves that are left closed unless you are in the process of using them (eg. sighting the tank level). If you can find "rated" clear hose, go for it, but I am not aware of it.

Precisely this! As for hose, although not USCG rated, Tygon® F-4040-A is designed for fuels and industrial lubricants and has great mechanical properties for this kind of service.

 

[Comodave]

I would only use marine rated fuel hose. Clear hose can be used to find air leaks but then should be removed after finding the problem.

 

[BonesD]

I have used tygon many times over the years for gasoline engines. I imagine I will stick with the regular old stuff. I mounted my new twin Racor filters yesterday. Very simple. Did use a squeeze bulb hose set up to prime the new filters
It’s nice that the fuel tank is directly behind the bulk head the filters are on. I just opened the filler for the tank, dropped in the pick up hose with an in-line filter on the end to filter the out going fuel, filled both new filters to within an inch, dropped the new filters in place. Slowly top of the reservoirs and done.
None of this resolved down line priming but keeps me from having to store clean diesel in another can.

 

[BonesD]

I would like to get a longer fuel line from the tank to the Racors I need to add about a foot to accomadate the new filter location. It looks like a hydraulic line. Rated for 4000 psi although it is under no pressure at all since the feed is a siphon:gravity line.
My question
Is a regular high pressure hydraulic line diesel proof?
I’m guessing yes but wanted to check before purchasing a new one
Thanks

 

[Capt Jack]

The guys at local NAPA said no. Guaranteed it would leak eventually.

John

 

[catalinajack]

Long ago I went all electric (Walbro). Never a problem bleeding any part of the system. Pulled the mechanical pumps off the Lehman 120. A big block Chevy blockoff plate fit perfectly to cover the hole in the block. Now no worries about the mech pump's diaphram breaking andd filling the crankcase with diesel. Walbro pumps are rated for 18,000 hours of use.

I like electric priming pumps. They seem to be less likely to fail and, in many cases, can back up the mechanical lifter if it fails. Of course, squeeze bulbs are less expensive by a lot.

If your tanks can gravity or siphon drain (and I bet they can at least siphon drain), a cfacked squeeze valve can put a lot of fuel in entirely the wrong place.

 

[kapnd]

The guys at local NAPA said no. Guaranteed it would leak eventually.

John

Eventually:
In the end, especially after a long delay, dispute, or series of problems.

The NAPA counter guys are absolutely correct, if a bit ambiguous.
Possible that the China squeeze bulbs they stock might be made of synthetic cheese, but they are intended for use with gasoline, and will hold up even better with diesel.

 

[Searios]

I replaced all 3 Seabord squeeze bulbs with electrical pumps...In the process I removed the clear hoses.

Bleading has never been easier, highly recommended.

 

[C lectric]

I would like to get a longer fuel line from the tank to the Racors I need to add about a foot to accomadate the new filter location. It looks like a hydraulic line. Rated for 4000 psi although it is under no pressure at all since the feed is a siphon:gravity line.
My question
Is a regular high pressure hydraulic line diesel proof?
I’m guessing yes but wanted to check before purchasing a new one
Thanks

Some are diesel rated , some are not. The rated ones will give better service and life. Just check to be sure. Either ask the seller for the chemical resistance lists/charts or get the mfgr name and hose ID and look it up online.