Just Cleaned My Props Myself

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Pgitug

Guru
Joined
Jan 4, 2015
Messages
1,231
Location
Usa
Vessel Name
Escapade
Vessel Make
Nordic Tug 37 2002
Had trouble finding a reliable dive service. Just got a new brass scraper that works like a champ. And I saved $125.00 on the diver.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/263959837605

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Good for you!

I use to clean my boat bottom and prop, but just don't have the endurance for my 45' boat. Thankfully there are several good diver service companies in Fort Myers. Mine shows up ( when he says he's going to) takes before pictures including running gear, through hulls, transducers, and anodes. Then he cleans the bottom and takes after pictures. Sends me an online bill with the pictures and an online payment link for $2 per foot (monthly service). For $90 a cleaning, he can have my business. Does a great job also!

Ted
 
I used to do my own until I moved to the PNW. Now I gladly pay a diver to get in the cold water for me.
 
Good for you!

I use to clean my boat bottom and prop, but just don't have the endurance for my 45' boat. Thankfully there are several good diver service companies in Fort Myers. Mine shows up ( when he says he's going to) takes before pictures including running gear, through hulls, transducers, and anodes. Then he cleans the bottom and takes after pictures. Sends me an online bill with the pictures and an online payment link for $2 per foot (monthly service). For $90 a cleaning, he can have my business. Does a great job also!

Ted



It’s so very nice to have a service that you can count on.
Turns out the only dive service that I can rely on in my area is the guy I see every time I shave in the morning. [emoji23]
 
I see prop nuts put on backwards.
Seems to hold the prop on though.
 
It’s so very nice to have a service that you can count on.
Turns out the only dive service that I can rely on in my area is the guy I see every time I shave in the morning. [emoji23]

There is a Pier 88 Diving franchise in your area.

https://pier88divingsrq.com/
 
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I will stick with the engineers opinion even after reading a huge amount on the subject... Glue and safety wire generally aren't needed when done right the first time, but can't hurt
 
I will stick with the engineers opinion even after reading a huge amount on the subject... Glue and safety wire generally aren't needed when done right the first time, but can't hurt

:thumb:
 
Just so I understand this correctly, are you saying that size doesn't matter? Cause I've heard that somewhere before.
 
Size matters and so does the type of scraper, brass, protects the bronze prop from scratches
 
Size matters and so does the type of scraper, brass, protects the bronze prop from scratches

Scratches? How about a right angle grinder with a wire cup?
 
Wire cup works for me...but not so much underwater...

Though the divers around here use a lot of cheap air driven tools...store them in light oil between jobs.... wonder if a small die grinder with a wire wheel would work OK under water????

Scratches? Never had any worth worrying about in all my years messing with props bot recreationally or in boatyard work.
 
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I use a light die grinder and keep it in hydraulic oil. Rinse it out and cover with oil. I have 4 years on the die grinder. In the PNW i go to Desolation Sound where the water is quite warm and take about 2 days to get it done. I do get tired. I have a Hookah setup with 2 air outlets, one for me and the other for the die grinder. I haul out every other year and that seems to keep my prop, shaft and other bottom devices in good shape.
 
I wouldn't use anything but brass on bronze. Steel can embed itself into the bronze, then rust, and cause prop problems, or so I've been told. How many people here have run a wire wheel on any kind of a grinder and later found a wire in their clothing or skin? I have many times. Bronze is soft. Brass is softer, IIRC.
 
i have a bronze wheel for the diegrinder.
Got mine at Grainger.
 
I wouldn't use anything but brass on bronze. Steel can embed itself into the bronze, then rust, and cause prop problems, or so I've been told. How many people here have run a wire wheel on any kind of a grinder and later found a wire in their clothing or skin? I have many times. Bronze is soft. Brass is softer, IIRC.

Can ....but doesn't seem to be a problem.

Have been watching marinas use steel wire wheels for decades with no I'll effects.
 
Can ....but doesn't seem to be a problem.

Have been watching marinas use steel wire wheels for decades with no I'll effects.

I suspect what the marinas are using are stainless steel wire wheels as regular wire wheels will most certainly embed small particles of steel and cause rusting within a few days. I have had this happen at least twice when tig welding stainless and using a regular wire wheel for cleanup. It took nearly two years and many scotch brite pads to finally get all the metal particles out and stop the rusting.
 
Nope, plain wire...I have used them too.

Under water in salt water, if there is any, the rust is gone so fast I have never seen any on a prop...and who would care?

As I have never heard anyone describe a problem or even prop shops have never said anything.
 
I see prop nuts put on backwards.
Seems to hold the prop on though.

Oh, so you wanna start that discussion. When I read a thread about that a couple years ago I asked a few boat mechanics about the big nut/little nut thing and I managed to get 3 different answers for big vs little on first. One was big first, next was small first and third was big first to snug it down, remove then put small first. My guy is a big first guy. Tell us about your right way?
Eddie and Gail
 

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Can ....but doesn't seem to be a problem.

Have been watching marinas use steel wire wheels for decades with no I'll effects.


:thumb: The few I have seen done they were using an abrasive grinding wheel made for soft metals. I priced a 4.5 inch one a few years back and it was $37. :eek:
 
Oh, so you wanna start that discussion. When I read a thread about that a couple years ago I asked a few boat mechanics about the big nut/little nut thing and I managed to get 3 different answers for big vs little on first. One was big first, next was small first and third was big first to snug it down, remove then put small first. My guy is a big first guy. Tell us about your right way?
Eddie and Gail
I have a feeling that torquing your nuts proper and using the correct pin means more than what position your nuts are in. :blush:
 
Oh, so you wanna start that discussion. When I read a thread about that a couple years ago I asked a few boat mechanics about the big nut/little nut thing and I managed to get 3 different answers for big vs little on first. One was big first, next was small first and third was big first to snug it down, remove then put small first. My guy is a big first guy. Tell us about your right way?
Eddie and Gail

Well if you asked a marine engineer you’d probably only get one answer.
And if your thread subject is prop nuts how-a-bout posting a pic so we can see the nut stackup. Boat and props look nice though.

But you have a point. Many don’t know the correct way. And those that put the big nut on first are only doing the way that seems “obviously” correct. And one could call me out big time as I only use one nut.
 
How does it make any difference, except for turning the props green, come on really.
I have not had the props off the shafts since I bought boat in 1998.
When I changed the cutlass, I slipped them out together.
 

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My vote is #3
Big to snug & check the prop seats as far w key as w/o
Remove & replace w thin
Install thick nut and final Torque
I prefer seizing to cotter pins
Will others work? Sure but I think above is a best practice and agrees w Navy procedures & fastener engineering if that means anything
 
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Read the literature and little nut first makes the most sense engineering wise.

Boatyard personnel and one of mechanics are usually the least informed of the correct way things should be done.

Does it matter? Does anything matter on a boat? You can argue all day on most things..... Even though many you can lean towards a scientific best practice if you care to.
 
Ive never had prop nuts come off or even move. I don’t care which way they go on, big or little, but I torque the crap out of them. Guess I’ve been lucky for 60 years.
 
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