Interior Teak Veneer Piece

[Jmreim]

On the teak veneer brow above my helm, there are a variety of items flush mounted (autopilot, VHF radio, etc,). The previous owner had a ships clock and barometer mounted there too but removed them prior to selling - what remains are some small holes and 2 significant unfaded shadows. I have my own clock and barometer that will mount there nicely but unfortunately, mine are both a bit smaller than the previous units, so I can't mount them without installing some sort of panel behind them to hide the holes/shadows (hoping I've figured out how to attach a pic to this post). The panel needs to be 16" wide x 6" high x whatever thickness I can find (preferably about ⅜"). Ideally, I'd like to get a finished piece that might be a close match but I have no idea where to find something like that - just seems to me that almost every trawler has a pilothouse or salon or forward/aft cabin covered with this same teak veneer material. Might anyone out there have a small scrap piece? Would appreciate any direction you might point me.
Thx -
Jim

 

[GH41]

Sometimes you are better off using a different material rather than trying to match the existing wood. Your better off using a contrasting color when the chance of a perfect match is all but impossible. Your valance appears to be a solid teak board. You could make what would amount to a teak plaque cut to size with a routed decorative edge but if you aren't gonna like the price if you have to hire it out. Another option is to go to your local sign shop and get a piece of black 1/4 inch PVC or HDPE. They will probably give you a piece out of the scrap pile. It's used often to skin instrument panels when updating instruments.

 

[Comodave]

I agree, put a large piece of something like black Starboard that will cover the whole area and then you can mount your stuff wherever you like. Starboard comes in 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2” and thicker. I have bought some that I think was 1 1/2” thick. It works with woodworking tools.

 

[hollywood8118]

On the teak veneer brow above my helm, there are a variety of items flush mounted (autopilot, VHF radio, etc,). The previous owner had a ships clock and barometer mounted there too but removed them prior to selling - what remains are some small holes and 2 significant unfaded shadows. I have my own clock and barometer that will mount there nicely but unfortunately, mine are both a bit smaller than the previous units, so I can't mount them without installing some sort of panel behind them to hide the holes/shadows (hoping I've figured out how to attach a pic to this post). The panel needs to be 16" wide x 6" high x whatever thickness I can find (preferably about ⅜"). Ideally, I'd like to get a finished piece that might be a close match but I have no idea where to find something like that - just seems to me that almost every trawler has a pilothouse or salon or forward/aft cabin covered with this same teak veneer material. Might anyone out there have a small scrap piece? Would appreciate any direction you might point me.
Thx -
Jim

Take all the panels down, use a plug cutter to cut plugs to fill the holes from the previous mounts, then completely sand and refinish all the panels.
Hollywood

 

[Jmreim]

Hmmm - I don't think so but thx for the suggestion.

 

[Lou_tribal]

If you take some plywood with veneer this will show on the cut part.
You better find a board of cherry or mahogany to start with.
If you can't find these, it should be easy to find a board of maple or birch, cut it to length, round each end, chamfer the edge and stain it.
Then fix your clock/barometer/whatever to it and fix the whole up there.

L

 

[Datenight]

Jim,

I have some 1/8" teak plywood that may fit the bill. You could overlay it and stain the edges. It is so thin and the location is such that the edges would not be noticable.

Let me know if you are interested.

Rob

 

[Jmreim]

Well, we meet again! Thx so much for responding, Rob - I’m VERY interested. Not sure I understand correctly - is your piece completely unfinished or would just the edges be unfinished? Happy to chat offline if that would be better.
Thx -
Jim

 

[hollywood8118]

Hmmm - I don't think so but thx for the suggestion.

So i guess I need to be more specific,
Pull just the two instrument panels down, cut plugs from the back of the panels so the teak grain matches. Then refinish the panels. This works if the panels are solid teak. If you remount instruments on the panel the plugs should barely be noticeable , and if they are they at least look "proper".
Veneering over the panels takes a fair amount of woodworking talent to get it to look great and the new veneer wont match the existing anyway.


I had the same issue on my Ocean Alexander with the overhead panels and made new panels, spent a boat load for the new teak and the grain mismatch is quite apparent.

Hollywood

 

[ImaBoat]

I used these people....https://www.woodshop102.com for my 3 teak upper instrument panels on my GB36. I ordered and received very nice teak 3/8 inch cut to my EXACT measurements. Price was $90.10 which included FedEx shipping.


BTW I did have to router the edges, sand and varnish.

 

[koliver]

Before you deface the panels with an overlay, try sanding the finish off on the whole panel and redoing with clear urethane. You should have plenty of depth in the outer layer of veneer to sand the faded portion away so it is all the same colour.
If not, you haven't lost, as you were going to throw it out.

 

[tiltrider1]

I had a similar issue on my boat. First I removed all the brow panels and duplicated them in black ABS plastic. I did this to buy myself time. I then stripped my original teak panels. Now in my case my new instruments were smaller than the holes in the panels. I routed the holes so I could drop in acrylic panels. From now on all holes are created in the replaceable acrylic panels. Most of what you see now is the original teak but all the instruments are framed in black acrylic. The shadows from the clock is only in the finish. Once you strip the finish off the shadows will be.gone.

 

[FF]

Mount your clock and barometer in the center of the darker area , it will look like a trim ring to the 1% that might notice.

 

[caltexflanc]

Atlantic Veneers in Beaufort NC, and World Panel in Windsor NC are excellent sources, have used them both for teak and afromosia.

https://www.worldpanel.com/ 252-794-9944
Möhring Group - Home (252) 728-3169

 

[DHeckrotte]

I've got / will have the same problem. My equivalent component is solid Teak, not plywood, and it's firmly affixed in place. I will add a solid overlay, shaped to look like it was done on purpose. I removed the solid Makore component on my previous (sail)boat. I routed and fitted solid Makore inlays.

 

[Jmreim]

Thx for all the great ideas -as I think about this further, perhaps a simpler solution might be to mount the clock and barometer separately on 6" diameter teak pads - that would hide the holes/shadows and perhaps look less like a DIY job. Here's what I found:
Teak Cover Plates & Mounting Blocks -- 3-1/2" To 6" Diameters -- Free Shipping

 

[RonR]

Could you just pull the piece, remove the finish by heat gun, scraper if its think or just sand or chemical, te-ka bomb it, fill the holes with a matching wood filler sand and refinish?

 

[Datenight]

Well, we meet again! Thx so much for responding, Rob - I’m VERY interested. Not sure I understand correctly - is your piece completely unfinished or would just the edges be unfinished? Happy to chat offline if that would be better.
Thx -
Jim

Jim give me a call Thursday if you can, 860-885-8382.

Rob

 

[AusCan]

Time will fix it.
I had similar rings where the PO had mounted a clock and barometer. It was obvious for a year or two. Now after 5 years of sunlight, I can't tell where it was.

 

[Cigatoo]

Time will fix it.
I had similar rings where the PO had mounted a clock and barometer. It was obvious for a year or two. Now after 5 years of sunlight, I can't tell where it was.

Same results on our GB36. Time heals all wounds.

 

[Ted]

"but time has stood still since we've been apart" ---- Jim Reeves

 

[akflyrod2]

Veneer Help

What works for us anywhere we have discolored teak veneer is to rub it with the grain using teak oil applied with bronze wool. Don't use steel wool, any small bits will rust. It restores the original luster and cleans it too. Wipe of any excess and let it dry. You will want lots of ventilation. As for the holes, small ones will disappear with matching wood filler, the bungs require a certain amount of skill to use.

 

[twoflew]

Teak veneer

Jim, give me a call. I live in Easton and have what you need. John Shore 410/820-5896

 

[Taras]

I’ve used “peel and stick” teak veneer on trouble areas on previous boats. Just lightly sand the area, peel and stick the new teak veneer to the area, trim to fit, then, varnish. Looks perfect. The peel and stick veneers I purchased online come in a 4’ x 8’ sheet.