I have a few loose screws

[HeadedToTexas]

Yeah, no surprise there, right? Seriously though, I have a few loose screws on my boat that need fixed. The first and most urgent is the upper bracket on my lazarette hatch gas strut. My plan is to remove the screws, clean and debride the holes, fill with epoxy, then drill and replace the screws.

I get that the right way to go is to blend the right amount of thickener into West 105, but I need less than an ounce for this project. Is a product like Hardman Red or even Loctite Marine Epoxy nearly as good as West 105? Or 90% as good? Or 75%?

And I see West 105 comes in convenient single use packets ready to go with 205 fast hardener. I can see going through a quart of 105 in the coming years. How long does it last?

 

[Lepke]

It's better is resin is fresh. Less than 2 years old.
If you're working overhead or horizontal,put a piece of duct tape over the hole and use a syringe with thickened epoxy. Cut a small slit and deposit the epoxy thru the tape. Thickened epoxy won't come thru. If using unthickened, be ready with another piece of tape to cover the slit.

 

[Comodave]

I have kept West epoxy for several years with no problems. But I usually go through the gallon size in a year.

 

[HeadedToTexas]

The hatch opens to approximately vertical, and I am sure that tape trick will be needed to keep the epoxy in place. Thank you, Lepke.

 

[Xsbank]

Match sticks. Dip them in 5 min epoxy, stuff them in the hole and break them off (or use one of those side cutters that cut flush like you would use for zip ties) and run the screws in.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. HTT. Yup. What Mr X said. 5 minute epoxy and matchsticks or toothpicks. No need to overthink a repair like this.
I've found that if you think the hole is packed, take another "sliver" and tap it in with a small hammer. You can readily trim off the excess with a sharp chisel after everything is set up.

 

[kthoennes]

When I have the same issue -- just need a pea-size blob, I use this stuff. Loctite Marine epoxy. Squeeze out a little blob, mix it on a piece of cardboard with a popsicle stick or twig, then apply with a toothpick. Bonds to the fiberglass like iron. Usually those screw hole repairs end up under the screw head, but for the larger ones I have noticed that the white Loctite Marine epoxy does not stay bright white -- turns almost a cream color after a while, maybe due to sunlight u/v exposure. But that stuff always work well for me and one tube lasts a couple years.

 

[DrissZougari]

The gas strut bracket is always an issue in that specific application. I would suggest you to repair/fill the holes accordingly and have a new SS bracket 4in X4in (or bigger as you see fit). Mount studs on the bracket to accommodate the strut bracket then mount the newly made plate onto the hatch. this way the upward pressure is distributed over the plate instead off a small bracket. The small brackets will usually create a depression in the fiber glass that will loosen the screws allowing moisture behind it. I wish i had a picture of my old boat however, I am expecting to do the same thing for my current one when the day comes.
Good luck.

 

[DCDC]

Have used a quart of MAS epoxy, ordered online, for small repairs over 3 years. Stored in a deck locker during Gulf Coast summers and still good. Use fumed silica (Cabosil) to thicken to any consistency. Name brand epoxy resins are all made by a handful of chemical companies.

 

[DDW]

West epoxy will store for many years, 10 at least. It will yellow with age but works just as well. Don't let it (or any epoxy) freeze as it drives some of the components to a crystalline form. You can heat it up to re liquify but better not to have to.

For those types of repairs West Six10 works very well. It does have a shelf life though, the thickeners premixed into it become lumpy. Good for about a year on the shelf.

 

[HeadedToTexas]

I am guilty of overthinking most things. Thanks for the clear and straightforward ideas, folks.

 

[moparharn]

You are going to want to know if you have coring and if the coring is pretty wet. If you have wet coring you should pick out as much as possible to that whatever epoxy you put in creates a "T" shape in side the hatch or else your new screw is likely to come out sooner rather than later. You also have the option of bedding in a helicoil and using a machine screw or small bolt. If you go with a more robust mounting plate the helicoil might be better. If you have coring I would thicken the West Epoxy. Nice looking boat!

 

[Pete Meisinger]

Marine Tek keeps for many years. The catalyst may crystalize a bit but still works fine. It is hard as a rock when set and comes in very small containers. White or black.

pete

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. m. Excellent points. I never considered the condition of the coring material. I assumed since the bracket(s) are in the inside of the hatch, the coring would be dry.
Good advice for wet coring (your post).
I would still go with the matchstick attempt if the coring is dry.


You mention Heli-Coil. I've had occasion to use these inserts in some of my repairs:

Best to use some type of insertion tool (as pictured) rather than a large screwdriver if the insert is slotted. They are available in numerous sizes and in both brass and SS.

 

[rgano]

My usual go-to for such a loose screw hole repair is to drill out the hole sufficiently to accommodate a tapered wooden plug first soaked in CPES and then epoxied in place. I have tapered plug cutters up to about 3/4 inch diameter. While I have dome the "matchstick" method II actually like a harder wood) for smallish projects, this one looks more suited to about a 1/2-inch diam wooden plug.

 

[bayview]

Why not drill everything to the next size screw and be done with it?

 

[rgano]

Why not drill everything to the next size screw and be done with it?

The surrounding fiberglass is likely in a generally weakened state. Go much bigger than the next sized screw and make it a forever fix.

 

[ghost]

These are really convenient... https://www.amazon.com/Hardman-Dou...rds=Double+bubble+epoxy&qid=1604936701&sr=8-3

 

[koliver]

I am guilty of overthinking most things. Thanks for the clear and straightforward ideas, folks.

Not to worry about epoxy getting old.

I am getting towards the bottom of a 1l bottle of epoxy resin with its 1/2l hardener. I bought this batch to do a blister repair on the sailboat that preceded Retreat, which I have owned since July 1994. The old epoxy works, flows, sets up.. the same now as it did when new.

 

[Ski in NC]

Another way is to drill the holes out to like 3/8" or 1/2" and then soak dowel pieces in epoxy and press them in. This will give more holding power to the screws.

 

[firehoser75]

HTT,
I always figured that you had a screw loose I would know, because ......
You have been given some very good advice and have several choices available.
By the way, nice boat. I almost bought one, but it came with a 69 hp engine, and I was concerned that it was underpowered and decided not to take the chance.

Good luck on your repair.

 

[ProMaritime]

You need some more structural like aerocil to make an epoxy putty and you have to reinforce it with two or three layers of glass cloth on the back side.

 

[jeffnick]

RAKA Epoxy Sample Kit will give you everything you might need to experiment with.

Epoxy Sample Kit

And you'll have stuff left over for future projects.

 

[stubones99]

Another way is to drill the holes out to like 3/8" or 1/2" and then soak dowel pieces in epoxy and press them in. This will give more holding power to the screws.

The problem with using a dowel is that screw placed into end-grain wood are nowhere near as strong as if it were placed across the grain.
I would prefer the toothpicks and epoxy method, just let it cure well, and then pre-drill your hole again, so the screw does not split the epoxy / wood mixture when refastening the bracket.

 

[CarlF]

Since this is unlikely to be your last loose screw, get some West Gflex. Much better than laminating epoxy for little repairs. It’s flexibility makes it much less likely to crack. Also adheres better to metals and plastics. You can get the liquid and thicken it yourself or they make a convenient pre-thickened version. I have both aboard

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/8695

 

[Andiamo2018]

Thru bolt it. There often isn't enough bonding area for the constant torquing the base gets every time the hatch is opened or closed. No matter what you do make sure there isn't any play at all when you are finished.

If you don't thru bolt it you might at least bed it in 5200.

 

[HeadedToTexas]

Since this is unlikely to be your last loose screw, get some West Gflex. Much better than laminating epoxy for little repairs. It’s flexibility makes it much less likely to crack. Also adheres better to metals and plastics. You can get the liquid and thicken it yourself or they make a convenient pre-thickened version. I have both aboard

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/8695

The diversity of epoxy products is dizzying. I get that West products' reputation is at the top of the industry. The pre-thickened 655 is very interesting. Perhaps it's an individual experience thing I just have to acquire. Thank you.

HTT,
I always figured that you had a screw loose I would know, because ......

Hehe, yes, I know!

 

[Leo Reise]

I have had some success with a product called "Aquamend". Starbright has the product under a different name. It is an epoxy "stick", simply cut off what is needed, knead until uniform in mix and force into the gap. It hardens like a rock so trim while still pliable.