Hurricanes and chafing gear

[diver dave]

Got some basic questions here for discussion. Basically, it comes down to when to use anti-chafing gear when high winds are expected, docked or anchored.
I know, and have seen, that anyplace there is movement of the highly stressed line against a fixed object, there will be wear. My boat has no chocks or hawsepipes where line passes, only cleats. Does a cleat knot situation warrant chafing gear? What about line wrapped around a 10” diameter wood piling? Is it better to use a chafe-guarded loop around a cleat, or to do the proper cleat attach knot?
Is there a place for dynema in the discussion? Like maybe around the cleat itself, minimizing stretch/abrasion?
Best to figure this out now, before H season[emoji106]

 

[rslifkin]

If the cleat is relatively smooth, I wouldn't worry about chafe in a cleat hitch. I've never seen a line show meaningful chafe where it was on a cleat. For a piling, if it's tied tightly around, it shouldn't produce much chafe. If it's around and back to the boat, definitely use a chafe sleeve. Any line going through a chock or other intermediate rub point needs chafe protection as well.

Smooth stainless cleats and leading lines at angles that keeps them from touching anything goes a long way to reducing chafe.

 

[psneeld]

Usually the motion that is forgotten is the up and down movement of the lines.

So yes the first turn around a piling can use it if there is enough fetch (remember, land that you see everyday might be underwater) to create waves more than a couple feet.

If the lines touch any part of the boat after leaving the cleat, the chafe protection is a good idea. The line on the cleat is usually OK, but again, I am pretty sure that the first turn in the line is where almost all the chafe occurs.

As far as dyneema loops on cleats or pilings to minimize chafe...thought about it, never did it though as I would like to see before and after pictures first.

 

[O C Diver]

I worry about chaffing when a line is stretching through a hawse pipe or rubbing something. My solution is tubular nylon strap. It's pretty inexpensive and does a good job.





Ted

 

[Comodave]

If the line is properly sized for the cleat, 1/16” of line for each 1” of cleat, it should not chafe. So an 8” cleat will fit 1/2” line. If you do use chaffing gear don’t use waterproof gear like hose. Instead using something like the nylon suggested above will work well. You want water to get to the line to keep it from overheating.

 

[O C Diver]

I worry about chaffing when a line is stretching through a hawse pipe or rubbing something. My solution is tubular nylon strap. It's pretty inexpensive and does a good job.

View attachment 127753

View attachment 127754

Ted

This is what I buy, but they have different sizes and colors. The width is it laying flat. So, 2" webbing will have a 4" circumference. Divide it by 3 and that will be the maximum diameter of the rope you can put through it. So 2" has a 4" circumference, which divided by 3 will fit a 1.3" diameter rope. Reality is that it would be reasonable to install over 1" rope. It might work on 1.25" rope, but why fight it.

https://www.strapworks.com/2-inch-tubular-nylon-blue

Ted

 

[Osprey69]

Go to the local fire station and ask for a section of old hose. They do not charge and the stuff is bulletproof.

Thanks for the reminder to get it for the new boat

 

[psneeld]

There have been recent articles that have referenced studies that any chafe gear that does not allow sufficient water in to cool the stretched nylon may cause heat and ultimate failure of the line.

Also mentioned in post #5.

Something to research and keep in mind.

 

[Comodave]

Go to the local fire station and ask for a section of old hose. They do not charge and the stuff is bulletproof.

Thanks for the reminder to get it for the new boat

Sorry but no. You do not want waterproof chaffing gear. Use something that water can penetrate to keep the line wet and therefore cooler. Nylon line will actually melt from chaffing if it isn’t cooled and lubricated by water.

 

[Mac2]

There have been recent articles that have referenced studies that any chafe gear that does not allow sufficient water in to cool the stretched nylon may cause heat and ultimate failure of the line.

Great point. I recall an article that talked about the heat generated by stretching. The only solution to a straight line stretching, and over heating, would be the material itself.

Does anyone know of the preferred material for this? The OP mentioned Dyneema, which is stronger, but I've heard it's not great for chaffing.

 

[AlanT]

Go to the local fire station and ask for a section of old hose. They do not charge and the stuff is bulletproof.

Thanks for the reminder to get it for the new boat

+1

I've used free or cheap old fire hose for years with great results. While the hose is waterproof, it does not fit tightly on lines being of approx 2.5" inside diameter so there is no fear that the rope within the hose will be prevented from getting wet and potentially heating up. The inside rubber protects the lines and the exterior canvas like material is tough enough to stand up to old iron stanchions/bollards/rings. I also have lengths of chain for particularly gnarly bollards.
~A

 

[rslifkin]

There have been recent articles that have referenced studies that any chafe gear that does not allow sufficient water in to cool the stretched nylon may cause heat and ultimate failure of the line.

Great point. I recall an article that talked about the heat generated by stretching. The only solution to a straight line stretching, and over heating, would be the material itself.

Does anyone know of the preferred material for this? The OP mentioned Dyneema, which is stronger, but I've heard it's not great for chaffing.

The issue with dock lines is that you need some stretch to not rip cleats out, etc. Most materials that are better than nylon for chafe aren't stretchy enough.

 

[diver dave]

If you take a rubber band and stretch it, you can feel its temperature rise.
My phd physicist uncle wrote a paper on it. Afraid i didnt retain much of it tho.

 

[Portage_Bay]

In my experience dyneema and amsteel tend to slip when made fast to a cleat or bollard with a hitch or knot and don't hold knots well. I've also found dyneema has a tendency to chafe easily. I just found this video "Knots in dyneema"

that discusses the issue and also talks about heating when stressed. He then goes on to talk about knots that will hold in dyneema. Worth a bit of your time to watch before committing to dyneema to hold your boat in a storm when you can't be aboard.

 

[AKDoug]

Go to the local fire station and ask for a section of old hose. They do not charge and the stuff is bulletproof.

I am a retired fireman, and this is what I do. Also, I double up the line with a figure eight loop so that the chafing is halved and the knot is over the side of the boat and away. I do this even when at anchor if the conditions might cause chafing around the roller.

The newer hose is poly and has a plastic lining that is very durable and will not rot. Old hose is cotton jacket, rubber lining, and will rot if not dried out properly.

 

[psneeld]

I never wrote the last 2 sentences in my "quote" in post #12. It was from another post.

Please be careful when using the quote function.....

As to whether water is necessary or not in the chafe protection I can't say, but it is important when the line is rubbing inside the chafe material itself if the material is not firmly attached and moves with the line against the rub point.

Just nylon line being wet make little sense as it looks like a furry ball in no time at the chafe point with no chafe protection.

Last Cane season I went with nylon tubing (poly tubing was preferred but couldn't find it easily/cheaply) and I used zip ties on both ends to secure it to the nylon.

 

[Pieyed47]

Take a look at this using Spectra.