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04-13-2017, 02:22 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
City: Blaine
Vessel Name: Slow Bells
Vessel Model: Marine Trader 38
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 327
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household bleach for teak
I'm going to re-do my exterior teak this summer. I don't know what combination of varnish and paint that previous owners have put on it. So far, I have just been using a heat gun and scraper. I'll start sanding the first section soon, and I'm wondering if some teak bleach would be in order before the Cetol is put on. I have used the 2 part teak bleach before, but I hear you can also use household bleach. Anyone have any experience with the household bleach option?
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04-13-2017, 02:25 PM
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#2
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Guru
City: North Charleston, SC
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,869
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If I were you, I would save the household bleach for my tighty whities and use wood bleach on the teak. You can buy it at paint stores, hardware stores and home centers.
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04-13-2017, 02:51 PM
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#3
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Guru
City: Seaford Va on Poquoson River, VA
Vessel Name: Old Glory
Vessel Model: 1970 Egg Harbor 37 extended salon model
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,264
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Oxalic acid is a good wood bleach, removes the grey color. Makes it look a light tan.
The cheapest way to buy is a bag off Amazon. Otherwise, a hardware store.
Chlorine bleach will turn the teak white like color.
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04-13-2017, 04:09 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
City: SOBX North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 348
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I have used Sudsy Amonia for a long time to clean and freshen up raw teak. That's what many of the regular sportfishing boats use for a freshening up. I have never stripped varnish off with it. Just keep everything really wet as you are scrubbing it. Let it bubble up as you scrub it and work it in and sit for a bit on the wood for a few minutes. Then scrub back over the area and rinse. Of course keep your face out of the bucket. as its kinda strong. But its surely cheaper than all of those "Marine Bleach" kits too.
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04-13-2017, 05:09 PM
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#5
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Guru
City: Sunset Beach, NC
Vessel Name: Polly P.
Vessel Model: Monk 36
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 555
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My teak was that bad or worse. We used a heat gun on the old varnish and underneath tended not to be gray. But where the varnish had flaked off as in your first picture I used a combination of some household bleach and Wisk in a bucket of water. I had been using Starbrite teak cleaner and brightener but this works just as well. Scrubbing with a scotch brite pad and the soap/bleach removed so much dirt and grime it was amazing. That was really the easiest part.
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04-13-2017, 05:29 PM
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#6
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Guru
City: Seaford Va on Poquoson River, VA
Vessel Name: Old Glory
Vessel Model: 1970 Egg Harbor 37 extended salon model
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,264
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teak deck - surfacing
I will have to try the sudsy ammonia.
I mostly let it grey.
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04-14-2017, 07:45 AM
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#7
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Guru
City: LI or Fla
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,148
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TE-KA, water down by 80% in bucket (follow directions), then let dry after a day or two and light sand.
What you do after that... would be a LONG debate.
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04-14-2017, 09:05 AM
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#8
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,670
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What ever you use will raise the grain so save the sanding to last. Is there an area you can test? Under a section of the rail maybe?
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04-14-2017, 09:30 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
City: Blaine
Vessel Name: Slow Bells
Vessel Model: Marine Trader 38
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M
What ever you use will raise the grain so save the sanding to last. Is there an area you can test? Under a section of the rail maybe?
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Yes, lots of areas that I could test. The whole thing will need serious sanding, so I will hold off on sanding until I'm finished with my cleaning/bleaching experiments. Thanks!
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04-14-2017, 09:38 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
City: Bucksport, Maine
Vessel Name: T/T Whistful
Vessel Model: Boat US 12' Inflatable
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 242
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And btw...what anchor is your favorite?
(just couldn't resist that)
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04-14-2017, 11:11 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
City: New Tazewell
Vessel Name: Saoirse
Vessel Model: 1983 Nauticat 44 Ketch
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 151
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Oxalic acid.
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04-14-2017, 11:28 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
City: Blaine
Vessel Name: Slow Bells
Vessel Model: Marine Trader 38
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acheron2010
Oxalic acid.
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I'm going to give this stuff a try. I ordered a 2 pound bag of the powder today from amazon. Any tips or cautions when I mix up my first batch? Would a Scotch Brite pad work okay? I assume it will not burn a hole through my foot, my fiberglass deck, or my metal fittings?
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04-14-2017, 11:35 AM
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#13
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Guru
City: Seaford Va on Poquoson River, VA
Vessel Name: Old Glory
Vessel Model: 1970 Egg Harbor 37 extended salon model
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seattleboatguy
I'm going to give this stuff a try. I ordered a 2 pound bag of the powder today from amazon. Any tips or cautions when I mix up my first batch? Would a Scotch Brite pad work okay? I assume it will not burn a hole through my foot, my fiberglass deck, or my metal fittings?
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The acid is weak, won't hurt your fingers or SS or the FG. If you have a cut, it will sting like vinegar.
Oxalic acid is poisonous, it will clog your kidneys, so do not drink it.
I have mixed it with hot water as when hotter it is more reactive then cold water. You can supersaturate the solution, if so all the crystals will not dissolve, just add more water. If you let the water evaporate, it just reverts to white crystals.
What I do is paint it on the wood, let it sit and scrub a little, then let it dry.
Then wet it with water and scrub a little and let it dry, then rinse it off.
As it dries , it concentrates, gets stronger, works better. Sometimes I mix in a little dish soap. It is only reactive when wet.
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04-14-2017, 03:24 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
City: Blaine
Vessel Name: Slow Bells
Vessel Model: Marine Trader 38
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdowney717
The acid is weak, won't hurt your fingers or SS or the FG. If you have a cut, it will sting like vinegar...
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Got it. Thanks very much for the info. I look forward to trying it. It sure can't make the teak look any worse than it looks right now.
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04-14-2017, 03:27 PM
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#15
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Guru
City: North Charleston, SC
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seattleboatguy
I'm going to give this stuff a try. I ordered a 2 pound bag of the powder today from amazon. Any tips or cautions when I mix up my first batch? ..................
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Here's my tip:
Read and follow the directions on the package, especially the safety instructions.
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04-14-2017, 04:49 PM
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#16
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Guru
City: Trenton
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlinmike
TE-KA, water down by 80% in bucket (follow directions), then let dry after a day or two and light sand.
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Another vote for TE-KA.
__________________
Al Johnson
34' Marine Trader
"Angelina"
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04-14-2017, 08:27 PM
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#17
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,738
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The book "Brightwork" by "Rebecca Whitman" will be a great asset. This book is often refeered to as the bible of varnishing.
__________________
Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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04-15-2017, 03:10 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
City: Biloxi
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 160
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I have had great results from Messemer wood cleaner wash followed.by a wood brightner to bring faded wooed to it's original color, make sure there is no metal that it will come in contact with, then I brushed on and wiped down a coat of Penofin Marine oil, came out great. Need to wipe down the exterior teak every 6 months to maintain the color, easy to apply, great results!
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04-15-2017, 03:28 PM
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#19
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Guru
City: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 5,438
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With proper stripping, scraping and sanding you may not even need to bleach the wood.
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04-17-2017, 11:22 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
City: port orchard, wa
Vessel Name: skybird
Vessel Model: skookum/one off
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 143
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do as a friend did, and paint the teak rails with brown deck/porch paint! worked for him in the south pacific!...clyde
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