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Old 04-18-2017, 07:34 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by clyde View Post
do as a friend did, and paint the teak rails with brown deck/porch paint! worked for him in the south pacific!...clyde
Excuse while I disagree with the paint suggestion, noooo, no, no!!! Just spent a week of continuous sanding getting all the peeling porch paint off my Sundowner, what a mess!!! Sanded all the teak trim down to bare wood, used a cleaner and brightner followed by 2 coats of Penofin Marine Oil with a western red cedar stain in it, looks fantastic, just wipe more oil on it twice a year and you have easy maintenance and great teak look.
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Old 04-18-2017, 08:01 PM   #22
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I've been removing paint and posible varnish from PO, lucky for me just borders have it on it. I used a soy based remover that works really well. Just lay on a thick coating, let it do all the hard work. Once it crinkles up, the coating and paint can be removed using a putty knife.
I also recommend using sudsy ammonia scrubbed across the grain with a 3M green pad. I use a pole sander, you don't want your nose any where near the ammonia.
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Old 04-18-2017, 09:10 PM   #23
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Have you already sanded? From your photo, I don't think you have, or at least not very much. I think you will be surprised at the results if you were to bleach some of the very damaged wood, versus just sanding it. You will likely find you have to sand after bleaching, to get down to good wood. All the bleach is likely to do is to change the colour of the damaged wood that has to come off in any event.

I hope the purchase price was discounted significantly for the ruined Cetol finish.

If you are putting in the time and sanding to good, smooth wood, don't ruin it by painting over with Cetol again. Use Epifanes Varnish. By the time you get enough Cetol on to look good for the first year, you could have the same number of coats of Epifanes and it will last longer and give you much more pride, so you won't feel bad about recoating (one coat will do it) next year.
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Old 04-18-2017, 10:29 PM   #24
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Rebecca dosn't support strong chemicals on teak.
Vinegar, hydrogen peroxide and baking soda is what my wife used to bring teak back from black. Our cap rails were actually black.
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Old 04-18-2017, 11:11 PM   #25
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Pic 3 is looking good, HiDHo. It`s personal choice to take it further, but new teak costs. Primary test: Is it looking better? Sure is.
You`ll remove much more material to get to "green teak", and then it greys again. To avoid sanding too much on nameboards I use a teak stain on smooth sanded wood, before varnishing with Cetol TGL Gloss Plus,just a tip, it won`t work for decks.
Soy paint remover? I`ll be more careful at Chinese restaurants! Normally I use a heat gun and scraper, but heat could be violent to caulk, so best not.
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:00 AM   #26
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Better know what your doing when using a heat gun. Big problems , if wood gets burned. Also I would use the weakest acid, cleaner, first. There is only so much wood, and you cannot put the wood back on the rail. Same goes for scraper, always pull towards you, learn how to properly sharpen. Be very careful not to catch the corner of the scraper. If possible sand across the grain, in EARLY stages. Remember, less is more with grade of sandpaper, as high as number practical, always, better more labor than less wood. In med stages, ALWAYS sand with the grain, to the end of sanding. 220, for final sanding before, first thinned coat of varish.if you decide, to vanish, ask , I have an excellent way of knowing how to thin. In my opinion, most important step in Appling vanish, but many other important steps also, including but not limited to, weather, wind, dew, brush, time of day, etc,etc. I like to start with less coarseness than 80, if possible, 100, 150,220. Ask away , a lot of very experienced people on here, that can save you a lot of agg.
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