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Old 07-07-2018, 06:51 PM   #21
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I had a raw water pump failure do this to me, another place to look.
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Old 07-07-2018, 06:52 PM   #22
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I would take that oil cooler to a radiator shop for pressure testing. If they're not busy, they can do it quickly while you wait. Good luck. Hope it's oil cooler.
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Old 07-07-2018, 07:12 PM   #23
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Don't run the engine until you have flushed it first, all that pressure on bearings that might contain water...
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Old 07-07-2018, 07:19 PM   #24
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Maybe a winterization issue.
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Old 07-07-2018, 07:38 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunchaser View Post
Maybe a winterization issue.


That is what I thought but for what I saw it was well done. And I checked coolant and it was fine for -43C.

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Old 07-07-2018, 07:46 PM   #26
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The Acadian engine is a Hercules engine so even if it is a head gasket, should be parts available.
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Old 07-07-2018, 08:00 PM   #27
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The Acadian engine is a Hercules engine so even if it is a head gasket, should be parts available.


This is what I hope indeed

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Old 07-07-2018, 09:44 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lou_tribal View Post

That is what I thought but for what I saw it was well done. And I checked coolant and it was fine for -43C.

L
It's not the coolant that's the concern here it's the raw water loop. Can't tell from your photo but it's possible that this wasn't drained fully and/or didn't have sufficient antifreeze concentration. And your winters are not mild :-)
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Old 07-07-2018, 09:53 PM   #29
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Lou
Sorry to hear of your trouble.
I had similar looking oil.
First thing I did was to call my mechanic. His first words were: don't run it. next: bring it in.
I did. Of course it is more difficult for you with a single.
First suspect was the water injection elbow, second was the water pump. Oil cooler wasn't even on the radar. In mine it was the water pump, pushing raw water past the bearing and seal, right into the sump.
A new water pump and 8 oil changes later, I was on my way.
Unfortunately it was already too late, I only got 3 or 4 hrs use before a noisy, catastrophic failure, so I had to go back for a full rebuild. I hope you are lucky and avoid that.
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Old 07-07-2018, 11:32 PM   #30
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Another was to flush the motor is to dump the bad oil, flush the motor with diesel first before adding new oil ( long story .. but we sunk a truck 4 wheeling years ago and my bud sold the truck 5 years later and never had any issues internally with the engine )
Another thought regarding the cooler, if you bypass the oil cooler ( the oil not the water side) you should get water leaking out of the oil side of the cooler with the engine running.

Not to be critical but those coolers do look rather suspect...

oh the joys of boat ownership!

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Old 07-07-2018, 11:47 PM   #31
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Water in the oil

Lou,

yes, it is water in the oil. -- I doubt it is the head gasket unless you got the engine hot or it is running ruff, or pushing water out the over flow as the compression pressurizes the cooling system or such, etc. It could be the water pump, but more common is the oil cooler. I have seen it a dozen times.

1. - get the oil cooler completely out of the engine system - oil & coolant.

2, - Bypass the cooler with a hose.

3. - Bypass the oil fittings with a hose with proper fittings - any "HOZE MAN" shop can make one for you cheap.

4. - Change the oil & filter.

5. - run for 20 minutes to warm up the engine & then change the oil & filter again. Run again. Recheck the oil condition & presence of water in the oil

6. - Pressurize the cooling system,

7. - Check sump for water in the oil again.

8. - Replace the bad oil cooler as they fail all the time.

Good luck.

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Old 07-08-2018, 07:22 AM   #32
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Lou- How is you sea water pump driven? Belt or gear drive?

It could be the oil cooler, but usually if oil cooler leaks, the higher pressure oil leaks to the water side, then makes it out the exhaust to form a slick. It is possible the leak is very tiny and might close up under oil pressure.

Gear driven water pumps can certainly do this. Belt drive, no.
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Old 07-08-2018, 08:48 AM   #33
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Help needed - oil became grey tacky, water mixed?

Both pump, sea water and coolant are belt driven.
On pics below rhe black is the sea water pump, res pulley coolant pump

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L
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Old 07-08-2018, 09:01 AM   #34
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First of all thank you all for your support.

Here is the plan:
1 remove bad oil, change filter and refill with lighter oil. I am using straight 30w, what would be lighter oil to flush, 5w30?

2. Disconnect/bypass the oil cooler.

3. After refill rev the engine by starting with the shutoff solenoid on so engine does not start and oil flushes.

4. Change oil again with usual 30w oil, start the beast for 10min. Check any water leaking out of oil cooler.

5. Change oil again. Check for coolant level.

Now if it reveals that unfortunately it is not the oil cooler, what would be my option? Does it worth it to try a coolant leak sealant?
Better to direct to head gasket rebuild?

For information where I so not think it is a winter issue is that sea water is not circulating in the engine bloc, only in oil coolers, exhaust manifold and heat exchanger. If issue was coming from hard winter the issue would certainly be in the oil cooler what would be nice.

Some dirty job ahead for today

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Old 07-08-2018, 09:45 AM   #35
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Greetings,
Mr. L_t. At least the weather is nicer than last week (PLUS chaude). #3 above: I don't know if just turning the engine over with the starter motor would circulate the oil enough to get into all the small passages PLUS, for the amount you will have to turn it over, it would be VERY hard on your starter motor and it may burn it out. (I defer to wiser minds than I to tell you IF your plan is the best one) Let's work with the problem we already have without adding to the list.


"...what would be my option?" Sit in the shade with a nice cold white wine and wait for the TF analysis. Relax. Life is good. Kiss your wife. Look at all the birds flying and the fish jumping...



DO NOT!!! NON, NON, NON worry about the head gasket just yet SVP. Leave it alone until you're ABSOLUTELY sure that is the problem.


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Old 07-08-2018, 09:53 AM   #36
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Fortunately I have enough rose wine to drink my pain

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Old 07-08-2018, 10:05 AM   #37
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I would not grind on the starter to build oil pressure. Just change the oil and start it up.

Do you have an oil fill cap on the rocker cover? If so, open it up and look inside and see if there is milky gunk on valve gear (rockers, springs, etc).
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Old 07-08-2018, 10:23 AM   #38
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Any chance the vessel was tilted stern up during fall winter layup? This could allow water to flow into cylinders and drain into crankcase. It happens. Or excessive cranking with raw water valve open. Does this engine have an aftercooler?

As mentioned by others, be prepared for at least 3 oil changes. The most Iíve done is 5 as water in oil issues chased down and resolved.
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Old 07-08-2018, 10:48 AM   #39
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Help needed - oil became grey tacky, water mixed?

Indeed when it was on the ground I noticed bow was a bit lower then stern. Not sure it was enough for water to flow back in engine, maybe if exhaust manifold was full. Sure it was not excessive cranking as I never cranked it more than half a second for the engine to start right away.

No aftercooler very simple engine.

About temp engine I dis a check during last run to validate that gauge was fine. Gauge was showing around 67C. I got reading of coolant using heat gun, on hoses going in water heater, out of coolant tank, on the coolant tank itself etc and reading was compatible with what the gauge was saying, between 64 and 68 .


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Old 07-08-2018, 11:04 AM   #40
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The grey color puzzles me. Water and coolant in oil is mustard color.

You can use the cheapest oil for the flushings since you wil olu be running at idle for a few minutes.
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