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Old 03-24-2018, 07:01 PM   #21
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1983 and it looks as if the plate had been replaced as it only has 4 screws no gasket
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Old 03-24-2018, 07:08 PM   #22
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Rest of engine looks good but I will check all connections anyway ... the cover plate had only 4 screws so Iím sure it was a quick fix at one point . Iím gonna get a rebuild kit with proper cover plate gasket and screws and impeller
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Old 03-24-2018, 07:18 PM   #23
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A rebuild kit won't help as the remainder of the 2 screw threads are still in the threaded holes. Based on the photo they look like they broke off below the pump body machined surface. So that means a new or rebuilt pump assembly unless you can somehow dig them out.
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Old 03-24-2018, 07:27 PM   #24
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Greetings,
Mr.K. Mr. HW is absolutely correct. Looks like you'll have to pull the WP. IF you can't readily get the broken screws out, a good machine shop should be able to remove the stubs without causing pump ruination and necessitating replacement.

One bonus of removing the pump is you will be able to see whether or not it is the "old" style (I'm assuming a Lehman 120 HP) which are prone to breakage. IF it IS the old style, don't bother too much with repair unless you REALLY feel the need for a spare. Replace it with the "new" style available from American Diesel or Bomac.
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Old 03-24-2018, 07:38 PM   #25
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New style ???
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Old 03-24-2018, 07:48 PM   #26
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Thanks
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Old 03-24-2018, 07:53 PM   #27
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Mr. K. Whoa! I deleted my post. Get the correct information and #'s from someone who actually knows what they're talking about. I only know: Old style pump=bad. New style pump=better.
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Old 03-24-2018, 07:56 PM   #28
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Click image for larger version

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The pump I removed Click image for larger version

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Old 03-24-2018, 08:06 PM   #29
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Those look pretty crusty!
Hope thatís not representative of all the mechanical parts on your boat.
Frightening isnt it.
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Old 03-24-2018, 08:08 PM   #30
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Get that thing bead blasted and rebuilt pronto.
Its a jabsco so one would like to think its mostly ok.

Mind you, over there its probably cheaper to bin it and buy new.
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Old 03-24-2018, 08:18 PM   #31
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Mr. K That cover does appear to be an aftermarket "Speed Seal" but it's the end opposite the impeller that is of concern. Where to pump connects to the motor. The old style is prone to failure and as I said, is probably NOT worth re-building. Please provide a picture of the other end please.
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Old 03-24-2018, 10:06 PM   #32
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Call a pro and have it looked at by someone who knows what he's looking at. It's the best money you'll ever spend.
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Old 03-25-2018, 12:19 AM   #33
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There is a replacement ADC pump unit,which overcomes breakage risks of the drive tang. It has a geared drive. Not a totally R&R job, you have to blank off an oil passage(?). Costs about $500USD,($900AUD by the time mine got here). Many owners have fitted them as an improvement, yours sounds cactus, it`s a no brainer IMO.
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Old 03-25-2018, 06:12 AM   #34
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think its time for a new one ,,, a call to American Diesel will be in order on Monday morning .. thank you all for your help .

PS: I believe this part is called a cooling pump ?? is that correct?
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Old 03-25-2018, 06:22 AM   #35
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Raw water pump may be the term they use.
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Old 03-25-2018, 07:47 AM   #36
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New style ???
A Johnson pump. Looks identical, fits perfectly. I recently changed on both Lehman 120s. Call Brian at American Diesel. He'll ship the same day. Reuse the bronze elbows from the existing pump.
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Old 03-25-2018, 07:49 AM   #37
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Rebuild the Jabsco? Not the consensus among this group. Get a new Johnson.
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Old 03-25-2018, 08:37 AM   #38
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Thanks jack I will call ��the pump I have now is a jabsco .,.. Do you remember how much the new pump costed?
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Old 03-25-2018, 10:02 AM   #39
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If the water continues , one solution is to pull the hose from the pump (you will need to do that to repair the pump anyway) and stick a dowel or anything into the hose and clamp tight.

When your at the boat store for pump parts , pick up a set of wooden emergency plugs made for emergency leak use.

Great Advice!
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Old 03-25-2018, 12:16 PM   #40
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The screws on my water pump (Sherwood) and the bolts on my heat exchanger flange were all brass on my engine. Exchanging them for SS b/4 they rotted away (Dezincafied) saved me a lot of grief.
For that matter, except for high strength bolts, every time I work on the engine, I replace replace the affected fasteners with SS If I have them or can get them nearby. In the long run this has saved be time and I feel like I'm sure I can get something apart on the water if I need to.
Just exchanging SS shakeproof nuts for rusty nuts and lockwashers is enough if you don't have the bolts at hand.
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